#oliver start

[homosexualmorelikehomiesexual]

lost focus and had a consentual summer break from oxford at my family home (massive castle haunted by dead relatives) with my fellow student who i have so kindly taken in after taking pity on his plight relationship

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[sherlocking-out-loud]

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[inge-gardner]

Oliver Start - Blacknoir

This year has all been about the graduating year. Each first and second year is assigned to (or requested by) a third year to help them with cutting fabrics, sewing patterns together and any other little thing that they want them to do.

A second year and I had the privilege to work for Oliver Start, a fascinating person to work with, to help him  with his collection 'Anthropology Homme’ by his own label; 

Oliver's menswear collection is all about tailoring and twisting it to create garments that challenge perceptions. Some wouldn't normally be considered menswear in a traditional sense whilst others were more recognisably mens; even if the fabric choice was unconventional.

The combination of PVC, leather, soft shell, silk velvet and wool crepe, amongst others, meant that this collection was definitely going to stand out from the crowd and the details didn't stop there. Each edge seam was tape seamed for a cleaner finish and top stitching added that extra detail to ensure that this collection was fully finished. All coats were lined and tape seamed down for a more comfortable wear.

Patterns were intricate with cut out shoulders in a mohair and cashmere jacket; leather racer back styling with PVC restrictions were set into a soft shell cropped shirt. Layering also featured strongly with some outfits having four or five components to create the full effect. This layering also enabled Oliver to add different textures and fabrics making each piece stand out even though all of the fabrics were black. 

Using black as his only colour could have caused many problems for the young designer. This is because the emphasis of the collection then shifts to the detail put into the clothing. However, Oliver used this to his advantage by adding small details such as top stitching and tonal qualities that were archived by different fabrics and textures within the designs and garments. 

The fabrics were difficult to sew at times due to their nature but Oliver managed to sew them with great skill making sure that all the garments were finished to a high standards. This collection was ready to wear and more than a few people who saw the collection have asked Oliver if he would be able to make them parts of his collection. 

It was a true pleasure to work with Oliver on this collection. He helped to make the long hours of working feel less strenuous with plenty of laughter and jokes to lift the mood. I learned a great deal from him, particularly which fabrics I should avoid at all costs; the silk velvet skirt looked stunning but I spent two hours stretching and taping the material properly before cutting out the individual pattern sections. There were four. 

Oliver is down to earth, constantly refusing to boast about his wok and the feats that were needed to achieve them. Despite the long hours in the studio I am grateful to Oliver for the friendship he showed me and I know I also met a formidable designer who knows exactly the path he wants to walk down and is ready to handle the controversy that is more than likely to follow in his wake. 

Fashion film of Oliver's collection:

Anthropology Homme from Nicole Gomes on Vimeo.

Fashion film featuring Oliver Start's final collection 'Anthropology Homme'.

Music: 'Deny me Die' Silent Hill

Still from the fashion film directed by Nichole Gomes

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

'Showstopper' with two and a half metre train silk velvet skirt, studded soft shell clutch bag. Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Fashion Film included with kind permission of Nicole Gomes;

Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/NicoleGomesPhotography

Tumblr - http://eat--sleep--shoot.tumblr.com

Photography used with kind permission of Olivia Bossert

Facebook- https://www.facebook.com/oliviabossertphotography?fref=ts

Website - http://www.oliviabossert.com

Oliver Start

  Contact;

- E-mail: [email protected]

- Mail: 148 Knights Road, Bournemouth, BH11 9SH

Facebook;

- https://www.facebook.com/Blacknoirmenswear

Website;

- http://blacknoirdesign.tumblr.com

This post was taken from my blog: http://theonepersonyouknow.blogspot.co.uk