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Jun 27, 2018

Visiting Cro

Since moving to Croatia we have had many friends and family visit and inquire about visiting. I try and share as much wealth of information but have found I always forget a detail or two that could be valuable with each unique itinerary. The following is as much help as I can think of to help plan a trip to and around Croatia!

Croatia

Not so much anymore, but there was a time I was often asked if Croatia is safe to visit. There was also a time before I met my husband where I would not have known the answer, so I don’t take offence to question. Croatia’s popularity and awareness is rising so things are changing, but most people’s knowledge of the country goes directly to the war in the 90′s. But that was over 20 years ago and Croatia has come a long way. The answer is that It is as safe as any “western” country you could imagine visiting. I personally believe it is even safer than Canada, as I don't fear for things like my 6 year old running to the corner store for me to buy milk. Keep in mind we are in a small village, and bigger cities naturally have more edges to them.

The country has a few regions - the interior is called “Slavonia” (not to be confused with the country Slovenia). This is where the climate is more similar to the rest of Europe (snow in the winter), they have most of their agriculture, and also where most of their economic hardship currently is. Central Croatia is where Zagreb is, the capital. Istria is a region of Croatia that has been called the “new tuscany”. Dalmatia is arguably the most popular region of Croatia. It has the mildest climate, the most islands, a long stretch of sea. It has an unmatched beauty that we are definitely biased towards.

Money

While Croatia has been a member of the EU since 2013 - it has not adopted the Euro. The local currency is called the Kuna. Very few establishments accept Euros, so having Kuna’s is essential. The exchange rate to the Canadian dollar usually sits around 5 Kuna (HRK) to 1 Dollar (CAD) before fees. One of the first things on my list to tell people (Sorry Brent and Cara :( ) is that the best exchange rate can be found directly at a Croatian Bank or even a local exchange shop (but never the airport and for sure not at a Canadian bank). Personally I would feel most comfortable travelling with a few Kuna already in my pocket (and perhaps some Euro for a stopover), but the bulk of your cash should be exchanged once you get here. If not, your exchange will more likely look like 4.2 Kuna (or less) for 1 Canadian dollar. Of course a credit card is accepted most anywhere as well.

The cost of living in Croatia is relative to the rest of Europe. You may find things are slightly cheaper, but comparatively you can expect groceries and restaurant bills to be on par - especially in high traffic tourist areas (where often prices will soar). Always try to find a local favourite off the beaten path if you're looking for quality and fair pricing. There are the occasional times where the view and location is worth the premium price. As an FYI - The Average Croatian wage is about 6000 Kuna per month ($1250 CAD). The tourism sector of the economy makes up over 18% of the countries GDP.

Some staples for comparison - a Local beer at a restaurant is usually around 15-20 Kuna ($3-4 CAD), a wood fired pizza will set you back about 60-80 Kuna ($12-16 CAD), The cost of Petro, like everywhere in Europe, is high and usually sits around 10 Kuna ($2 CAD) per Litre.

Tipping is not a mandatory practice among Croatians, and you will find service can sometimes be slower (to go along with the pace of life). While not expected, is it well known that tipping is a common practice elsewhere. We most often round our bill up for a tip, and tip %15-20 only for exceptional service.

Coastline

A valuable piece of information is that the coast of Croatia cannot be owned. While some beaches are rented under concession - Legally No one can tell you that a particular beach is “private property” otherwise they are not being honest and you can continue to swim/paddle/enjoy.

Sandy beaches are rare. The beaches are most often made up of soft (or sometimes sharper) pebbles or slabs of limestone bedrock. This is a contributing factor the incredible visibility and clear shoreline, with no sand to kick up foggy waters. While this has become my preferred kind of beach (over sand or lakes), water shoes are a definite recommendation to bring along on your trip.

Water

Another note on bathing water quality in Croatia - the sea is some of the cleanest water in the world, and rated the best in Europe. Drinking water quality is also very high. Not only is Croatian water completely safe to drink it is also one of the cleanest in the world. Often times (especially in high tourist areas), local establishments will refuse to serve tap water telling tourists that it is unsafe to drink. This is simply not true. There have been some issues in big cities like Split and Dubrovnik where heavy rains have affected municipal water supplies, so if you’d like to avoid tap water during these times to be safe, but rest assured the water is safe if you’re as passionate about not paying for water as I am.

Climate (Dalmatia)

Coastal Winds - The coastal climate is defined by its winds. The most frequent wind in Dalmatia is the southeasterly Jugo (Yugo) which blows toward the mainland in autumn and winter bringing warmer and moister air with it. This wind - or any sudden change in barometric pressure - gives me a serious sinus headache. I have seen many people affected by this change. I have my own yearly supply of sudafed from Canada, I recommend bringing sinus or headache medication if you are ever plagued by headaches. It is said that in the “olden days” crimes were often given lighter punishment if they were committed during a Jugo wind. The Bura however, is a cold, dry wind which blows from the mainland in sudden and powerful gusts bringing dry air and cooler temperatures. The westerly Maestral is a pleasant summer wind that blows in from the sea, reaching its peak force in early afternoon. It refreshes the air and chases away any mugginess.

Travelling through Croatia

Overviews of cities from the North to South to help plan your itinerary :

Driving - There is a highway system - A1 Motorway (with toll fares) that runs from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. While the highway saves some time on your trip, we recommend if you are driving - to experience at least some of your journey driving the scenic serpentine roads along the sea.

We have found airbnb (or homeway) to be the most economical way to book Properties to stay at overnight. The market is saturated with them (as mentioned many people make their living from tourism) so if you are looking for a specific location to stay it is often a better option that hotels or resorts (unless that’s the experience you are looking for). It can vary greatly (from $50 - $600, also dependent on high or low season) , but the average listing will be approximately $80-100 per night)

Cities:

Zagreb - is the biggest city in Croatia. While you definitely would rather spend time further down the coast in the summer season, the capital city is becoming known for its winter and Christmas festivities.

Istria - We have not been to this region ourselves yet - as it requires a fair allotment of time to explore. Its a little out of the way and with a short budget of time I would recommend seeing the Dalmatian cost over Istria - although I am quite sure there are people who would disagree. If you have the time to do both, plan multiple trips to Croatia (you probably will after 1 visit) or would rather see Istria than the Dalmatian coast- here is an article that points out some of the highlights we have heard about “11 places to visit in Istria”.

Zadar - a coastal town that is both beautiful and well known for it’s famous sea organ. You can probably experience this town passing through without spending the night - but one day should be sufficient if you decide to have a rest and enjoy here (or use as stopover to see the locations below) before moving on with your trip. It has much less tourist traffic, with beautiful views, coffee shops and restaurants

From Zadar you can can visit many of the hundreds of islands, either by boat tour (Kornati National Park), ferry ride, or driving via bridge (Pag). Apparently this area is nice for Diving as well.

Plitvice National Park - Often one of the big highlights you see for visiting Croatia - protected Unesco site. We plan to visit this fall when the leaves are changing, because in the summer tourists apparently come in mass numbers and makes the experience less enjoyable. But it is a natural wonder to see and walk through.

Krka National Park - Very similar to Plitvice if you're looking for smaller scale and less busy. This article might help you decide between the two locations, since I have yet to speak from personal experience.

Šibenik - Another Unesco heritage site with a fortress and typical coastal architecture. Another location We have yet to explore, and another tourist overlook. Maybe you’d like to make this a meal stopover location on a driving tour or overnight location on your way to the national parks.

Split - If it were my planned trip - this would be my main hub location to see Croatia from. A central location with access to the national parks (mentioned above), the islands, and further onto Dubrovnik if you should choose. An Ancient Roman city with lots of architecture and history, gastronomy and culture. Locals and tourists alike love being in the old city and the Riva Promenade. (side attractions: Marjan Hill is a hiking park with beautiful views that is worth a few hours of your time. Split is a a filming location for game of thrones along with Klis right outside the city - worth the visit if you have time)

Edit - Split has very suddenly become a bit of a tourist trap. Not too long ago, locals lived and breathed the city along with tourists. But it is becoming increasingly obvious that the city is losing its authenticity - locals no longer living in the centre - and is geared for just tourists.

The Islands - I will write about our Island Brač in a separate heading, but a quick word about them. The islands are known for having the sunniest days in all of Europe. They are accessible by ferry (some foot passenger ferries and some car). Hvar is known as the jet setting party island (we’ve had questions about the best place to skydive in Croatia and our research has told us Hvar or Istria would be the place) It is full of architecture, festivals, and experiences. Vis is the furthest island from the mainland that was formerly a military base where tourists were not allowed to visit. It is home of the stunning Stiniva Beach, close to the famous blue cave - also the filming location for Mamma Mia 2. Korčula is where you will find quite beauty as it has the least convenient travel options. It is often referred to “little dubrovnik” as has a medieval fortress and said to be Marco Polo’s birth place. You can plan to visit one or more of these islands as part of your itinerary. My personal suggestions would be to arrange an “island tour” from either Split or Brač to see all the beauty and highlights in one amazing day. The price of an island tour sits around 90-110 Euro per person.

(Ferry routes during the summer from Brač to Dubrovnik are not shown here ^)

Omiš - is 25 km from Split - A good day trip option or stopover to/from Dubrovnik. It is an old priate town with a canyon that can be driven all the way to eventually hit the Bosnian Border. The canyon offers beautiful views but also you can find zip lining and rafting here.

Makarska - would be my next day stop from/to Dubrovnik along the coast. No need to stay overnight, but a great place to walk along the beautiful Riva (promenade), grab a drink and a bite, and maybe take a dip at one of its stunning soft pebble beaches.

Bosnia and Herzogovina - You must pass through 20 km of Bosnian coastline to continue driving the coast of Croatia. The area is called Neum is approximately 60 kms north of Dubrovnik. It is important to know that you will pass through border control on both sides of both borders and must have a passport. I made the grave mistake of forgetting this. I happened to make it by on our Canadian driver’s licenses, but as EU regulations get firmed up in Croatia I would not expect this to work in the future. Croatia is in the works to build a bridge ( Pelješac Bridge) to connect its coastline without having to go through another country. There is not much to see in this area.

Dubrovnik - Probably the most famous worldwide at the moment as a tourist destination likely due to game of Thrones (filming location of king’s landing). We visited this Unesco heritage site while we were dating (and continued on by ferry to Italy) almost 10 years ago. At that time, we visited in high season, the prices were reasonable and the streets were manageable and I was wowed. Walking the fortress wall was the highlight for us. When I returned with my sister, my favourite discovery was the coffee shop (Cafe Buza) on the cliffs outside the walls of the city which was a bit of a challenge to find, but definitely worth it. While I will say that Dubrovnik is a must see, I will also say that the 3 times Ive been since the first, the prices have increased drastically and the waves of tourists I find have made the experience much less enjoyable. I am glad to have learned that during high season there are ferries from our Island to Dubrovnik so that friends and family visiting us can go experience it for a day or two. Here is a good list of all the things to see and do in Dubvrovnik. I recommend a few days stay max. Expect amazing views and high prices, and always try to eat as far from the city centre as you can if you are frugal like I am.

Brač - Our home

Pronounced “Brach” (with a little roll of the R). It is the biggest Dalmation island (approx. 400 km sq. with it’s highest peak 780m) with a small general population of approx 10 000 (in the winter). Inhabited since Paleothic times, it has been under many empire’s rules. We of course are partial to this island over the rest. It is considered more of a “family” vacation spot. Cyclists, hikers, swimmers, and motorcyclists love it here. It is well known even among Croatians as having the best olive oil and lots of wine. Also known for its famous white stone mined from the island and used in historic buildings around the world.

If arriving at the Split airport and heading directly to the island, you can cab (approx $50), Uber, or Bus to the bus and ferry Terminal in the centre of Split. Buses are the most economical (Approx $5) and depart regularly about every 20-45 minutes and often coincide with incoming flights. Cab takes approx. 30-40 minutes and bus takes approx. 40-50 minutes.

During high season - Brač is well connected with ferries running almost every hour from Split to the main town of the island called Supetar. The cost is approximately 30 kuna one way ($6 CAD). (See ferry times below). Bringing the car on the ferry at peak season is more expensive and very congestion, often times not making the ferry for a few hours, So if our schedule is able we often meet friends and family at the ferry terminal and ask them to take the bus or cab to meet us. If you plan to bring a car to the island during peak season, always get in the the ferry lineup as early as possible and buy your ticket after you have parked to increase the odds of making it on the next scheduled ferry. buying your ticket in advance will not help this situation.

Highlights of the island:

"The Riva” - instead of a city centre (squares or piazza), coastal towns have their centre along the sea, where the port traditionally is. In English it would be known as a promenade, in Croatian is is called the Riva. One of our favourite summertime activities is visiting the beautiful towns along the island to see the cobblestone alleyways, architecture, views of the channel and mainland, sitting on the riva to have a coffee and gelato while people watching and enjoying the summer sea breezes. The Riva is also the place you will find each town hosting its “Fijera” (town fair) for it’s patron saint throughout the summer. Enjoy an evening of music, culture, food, and local vendors.

Some of our favourite towns to visit:

Supetar - biggest city with the most amenities and all inclusive resorts. Also where you’ll find the centre of administration, events and (besides Bol) the most nightlife.

Our little village of Mirca, steps away from the “capital” of Supetar with village charm where we have our Olive orchard, animals, old stone house and garden.

Sutivan is an idyllic town with a beautiful Riva

Milna has a stunning harbour with the main yachting port on the island and continue on to private coves in osibova to claim your own slab of rock to tan on - continue on to one of our favourite beaches in Osibova - which the family has nicknamed “porcupine beach” for its plenty of sea Urchins to watch for (a sure sign that the water is pure as they only congregate where the water is super clean)

Splitka is a small peaceful inlet

Pučišća has a deep hidden and protected cove. Where the stone mason’s of the island train.

Dol - sleepy town in a canyon where people escape to a village in the hills

Skrip is the islands oldest settlement and has a wonderful olive oil museum that has a historic tour. Our favourite highlight is having lunch with their green and black olive pate, incredible jams, and homemade wine.

Hike to Blaca Monestary for a tour and down the the bay for a swim.

Lovrecina - one of the sand beaches just outside Positra. Has a beautiful view, a local coffee shop, monestary ruins a short walk away, and sometimes donkeys to awe over.

Vidova Gora - the highest point of the island with a lookout over the famous Zlatni Rat. My personal favourite view in all of Croatia.

Bol - deserves a mention on its own. Home of Zlatni Rat (the golden cape) often voted as the most beautiful beach in Europe, with soft stone pebbles, sailing, parasurfing, wind surfing etc. One of the more expensive towns on the island, Bol is also known for its night life, and higher end clientele.

As mentioned above - you can arrange an island tour from Split or pickup on Brač for a magical day.

Other amazing activities on the island: hiking, swimming, biking, watersports, argo tourism, olive treks and tastings, winery visits, gastronomy, sailing, and general unplugging/unwinding.

Some of our favourite and a few Island favourite places to eat:

Grill Garden Restaurant - in between Mirca and Sutivan

Konoba Vinotoka - In the heart of Supetar with traditional dalmatian meals

Restaurant Žiža - above Supetar (Our favourite place for local lamb and a stunning view overlooking the channel)

Pizzeria Perperoncin - in the alley ways of Supetar- You’ll findncredibly fresh ingredients - we are partial as Mariano’s cousin owns and is the chef at this location.

Pizzeria Slika - In Milna right on the Riva

Konoba Kopačina - inland on the island in the picturesque town of Donji Humac - always voted as a local favourite - the place to go for grilled meat.

Benny’s Bar- not so much for eating, but our favourite place to have a cocktail day (with a sea fed swimming pool and water slides) or night (chill at the bar or get dance on the patio).

There are many more towns on Brač that are wonderful to see and experience. Whichever direction you plan to hike or swim you wont be disappointed.

Ferry Times: (watch carefully for changes in season times)

Split > Supetar ferry times

Supetar > Split ferry times

Dubrovnik > Bol Ferry times (no cars)

Bol > Dubrovnik Ferry times (no cars)

Ferry Route Catamaran Split – Milna (Brac) – Hvar – Korcula – Mljet – Dubrovnik (no cars)

We look forward to seeing you!

Hope this little guide from our perspective helps you with deciding how to plan you trip and itinerary. We hope you stop along the way to see island and experience the beauty and lifestyle we have come to enjoy.

#croatia #hrvatska #BRAC #otokbrac #split #Mirca #supetar #bol

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