Life in Mumbai tends to be super-structured and the rigours of daily routine tends to draw one into the vortex of a regimented living within confines of the Metro. Unless one decides to ponder on its geographic location and realize that by its very location-nestled as it were between the Arabian Sea and the Sahyadri Range – and realize that sheer geography offers many weekend getaways. The rich cultural history of its hinterland only adds to the quality of experience, if the Metroperson can gather the will to break free from shackled existence.
A confession- although I am a native Mumbaikar, my travels within Maharashtra have been largely confined to the Mumbai-Pune route; both by rail and road. Thus, trekking in Sahayadris was a passion in college days, the rest of Maharashtra with its heritage of forts, monuments, temples, caves remained too distant.
Ironically, if Pune is just across the Bhor ghat South of Mumbai, Nashik is equidistant, northeastwards across the Thal ghat. Yet apart from a week long training at Nashik in 1982 and a 5 day programme at the Leslie Sawhney Centre at Deolali cantonment in 1985 were the only occasions when I had ventured towards Nashik.
During a chance conversation with our dear friends Shobha and Alok we came to know that their bunglow in Deolali is listed as an Airbnb property. It was quite a few months since our last stay with an Airbnb host at Via Collerimole 67 on a hillside overlooking Florence. There was a sudden excitement at the thought of staying at an Airbnb nearer to home.Some quick check and two other friends sportingly agreed and off we were to Deolali on a Friday morning in late March we hit the Eastern Express (NH3) and were soon climbing the Kasara Ghat. (But not before a halt for breakfast at Shivsagar Hotel near Bhivandi- a very clean establishment. I can vouch! At Igatpuri we branched off onto NH 161 (the Ghoti_Sinnar Rd) and stopped by to see the Nirvana Naturopathy Centre which was rather tiny in terms of area, but had a good view of the reservoir formed by the Bhandardhara Dam. Some twists and turns (essentially about 20-25 kms of extra driving) later we reached the Sainik Society at Vijay Nagar where Alok’s beautiful home-19,Sainik Society, is located.
Deolali is a quiet cantonment area and offers beautiful walks.I was trying to connect to (and rekindle memory) my previous visit to Deolali in 1985. The place is genteel in character and not much had changed over these decades; except that there were more eateries! But for the evening we decided to drive to Nashik and had a good time visiting the Muktidham Temple and walking around the bazar. On way back, there was excellent dinner at Samrat restaurant in Deolali.
Memories from my first visit to Leslie Sawney Centre,Deolali in Dec 1985.(there i am in top row,4th from right)
Location of Caves and about their name.
But the real discovery of an ancient wonder tucked just 15 kms away from Deolali were the Pandav Leni – Buddhist caves dating back to 3 BC
On Bombay-Agra road, about 2.5 kms. from the Taj Residency a small hillock is seen. It houses the famous Pandavleni caves. The climb is not very steep. The height of the caves must be about 300 ft. from the foot of the hillock. Located in Trirashmi mountains, it is good to visit Pandavleni caves in the early morning; as one can see the sculptures well during that time.
Buddhism is a widespread religion, it is said to have originated in Bihar, India. Pandavleni caves in Nashik is one such rock-cut architecture, representing Hinayana Buddhism.
The caves were called Pundru which in Pali language means "yellow ochre color". This is because the caves were the residence of Buddhist monks who wore "the chivara or the yellow robes". Later on, the word Pundru changed to Pandu Caves (as per Ancient Monuments Act 26 May 1909). Decades later people started calling it Pandav Caves - a misnomer which is used for every cave in India.
The Vihara and the Chaitya are the main caves among the group of 24 caves. Vihara (Buddhist Monasteries) and Chaitya (prayer hall with a stupa) can be seen in every Buddha leni. Pandavleni caves were the meeting places for monks to pray and study Buddha or Buddhism. Inside the Buddha leni are the statues of Buddha and the inscriptions dating to the period of 3 kingdoms: the Kshatrapas, the Satavahanas, and the Abhirs. One should not miss a trip to Pandavleni caves in Nashik, Maharashtra.
Except cave No. 18 the remaining caves are Viharas or monasteries excavated in CIRCA 2nd Century A.D.
Read more at: https://www.nativeplanet.com/travel-guide/pandavleni-caves-nashik-maharashtra-001671-pg1.html
About funding of caves 2000 years ago- Ascetics, Believers, Royaly and the Greek connection.
Cave No. 3 was excavated at the orders of the Mother of the famous Satvahana King Gautamiputra Satkarni, who held sway over a large part of the Deccan in the 2nd Century A.D.
In cave No. 10 there is an inscription regarding the donations made by Ushadatta, the son – in – law of Kshatrapa Nahapana (CIRCA 120 A.D.).
Similarly cave No. 17 contains an inscription stating that a “Yavana” (the Greek) named Indragnidatta and his son Dharmarakshit excavated this vihara with a shrine and the cistern.
Cave No. 18 is the oldest and also the most important, being the Chaitya – the hall of congregation. According to the inscription engraved on the 5th and 6th pillars, this chaitya was excavated by Bhattapalika, wife of the Royal Officer Aghetyana and daughter of the Royal Officer Arahataya.
Another inscription under the horse shoe arch of the entrance records the gift of a village by the inhabitants of the Nashik for the upkeep of the chaitya.
Cave No. 20, first taken by an Ascetic name Bhopaki was completed by Vasu, the wife of Mahasenapati Bhavagopa in the 7th year of the Satvahan King Gautamiputra Yajnashri Satkarni (CIRCA 166-198 A.D.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasik_Caves
By the time we descended sunshine was quite harsh and our throats parched. Just the excuse we needed to stop by for a sugarcane juice. The crushers at most carts were of babool tree and the entire family would be involved in the enterprise. The juice had a distinct flavour of babool and therefore had a refreshingly different taste.