Paris Between Empires: Cafés
Paris was a city of cafés as well as restaurants. There were between three and four thousand cafés in the city, of which perhaps half were considered respectable. The following description of a Paris café is from an oft-reprinted guidebook, Galignani's Paris Guide, shows that cafés provided, in addition to refreshments, freedom from solitude:
"Strangers converse with each other sans cérémonie; some play at dominoes, others read the newspapers and periodical publications which are chained or locked to boards adapted for that purpose; others again sip their coffee, drink their sugar and water or enjoy their glass of lemonade or liquer with haply now and then a glance at the goddess of the scene (in vulgar English, the Bar Maid) who is generally chosen for that distinguished post for her charms and graces...everyone who enters is greeted by her with a 'witching smile' of welcome."
Cafés were patronized by people of every class. The former governor of Moscow, Count Rostopchine, spoke to strangers in cafés in the Palais Royal about their families, the future of Haiti or the retreat from Moscow. He heard many witty remarks, so he said, but no swearing.
... The poor patronised those cafés outside the barriers known as gougettes or guignettes, often with dance halls attached, which in Balzac's phrase, circled the city like a wall of mud: the most famous included the Jardin de la Gaieté at the Barrière du Maine or the Ile d'Amour at Belleville. Their prices were cheaper as goods consumed there did not pay Paris customs dues, and they would often be patronised by people from a particular trade or province, for example soldiers or Auvergnats. Having been paid on Saturday, their clients danced, ate and drank, often throughout the day on Sunday and Monday: some establishments had rooms for six or seven hundred customers at a time. On those days such cafés functioned as 'the parliament os the poor', where they could sing songs of love and war, celebrate French victories, forget the miseries of their daily life-- and, occasionally, as in July 1830, plan action to improve it.
Other cafés were the preserve of students, such as the Le Père Bonvin, a mile beyond the Barrière de Montparnasse, in countryside dotted with chalk pits, wooden shanty towns and grazing land.
Paris Between Empires 1814-1852, Philip Mansel, Ch.2: Paris Takes Europe
more from the 1814-1815 period!