Oakland: Plum Bar
8/1/14
After an eye-opening meal at the Daniel Patterson-backed Alta Ca, I felt the urge to try all of his other establishments. Seeing as how Plum Bar required the least amount of financial liquidations, it was first up. I dragged my party of six into the tiny corridor they call Plum Bar, sat down at their only large table (by complete coincidence), and pulled a "one of everything please". The waitress was surprised. She redefined the "deer in the headlights" look as if that would be an insurmountable amount of food but she was about to learn t'day.
Smoked Paprika Fries
Often overshadowed everywhere else except for this blog, great fries deserve notoriety and these fries were damn exceptional. The exterior of each fry was coated with some quality paprika that stuck well to the crunchy potato crust. We got two of these and murdered both of them.
White Bean & Eggplant Hummus
A super garlicy paste of white bean and eggplant that was topped with some extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of coarsely ground paprika. Served with some pretty common toast that was slathered with more garlic. This dip was amazing and it became my go-to dip for EVERYTHING for the rest of the night. You could have fed me a paper napkin if you slathered this paste on it.
Deviled Eggs
Why is everyone suddenly so compelled to serve deviled eggs in every bar setting? This dish is mediocre and lacks a vehicle for elevation. Blend some egg yolks with some mayo, squirt it back into the white and throw some chives, paparika, and some other sprinkly shit on there and serve it for $XX. Still unimpressed.
Nuts
A nice nut medly of pecans, peanuts, macadamia nuts, and maybe some other one? It didn't matter. They were house-roasted and tossed with paprika, sugar, salt, and a touch of cayenne. Perfect table fair.
Fried Okra
The best way to serve okra and PB knew it. Perfectly tender okra and a nice light panko crust. Don't know why they made a tartar sauce for it, and don't know if I liked this to compliment the okra, but it was definitely didn't not needed.
Tomato Salad
Early in the summer tomato season. Tried to be too simplistic and it ended up being flat since the tomatoes were not prime yet.
Tequila Cured Gravlax
Essentially a plate of smoked salmon, shaved radish, chives, creme, and shitty crostinis. A lot of content in a seemingly simple dish. Definitely didn't stick with me, but it must have been the poorly done crostinis. I can't stand bread that was poorly cared for, or just shit bread.
Grilled Cheese
A nine dollar grilled cheese with regular grocery store bred, pickles, and a jalepeno marmalade at the end of the day is still a grilled cheese. It was crusted well and the cheese selection was proper, but bleh.
Frozen Drunken Melon
I really didn't know what was going on here. On the menu it read like it was going to be a liquor soaked, frozen melon. Much like the accidental college experiments that went horribly well in every contradictory context. Instead, what was served was some tequila soaked, frozen melon dices with the rind on and garnished with some mint leaves. The melon was too hard to bite or cut through. Mint was disgustingly torn and thrown on top. This plate was logistically inedible, but a glimmer of the flavors did shine through and I took a peak at the vision.
Street Corn
A rendition of the common Mexican elote served on the corners of every Mexican community across this nation (and possibly others too). Early season sweet corn was sectioned, grilled, then doused with mayo, hot sauce (most likely Tapatio), salt, cilantro, and Parm instead of some Mexican crumbled goodness!? I can't complain. This was one of the best renditions I've had. Brined, steamed, and grilled as it should. Though I disagree with using Parm here, it worked and I can't think of another reason to dislike it. I then proceeded to order another one.
1/2lb Cheeseburger
A pretty solid greasy burger. Simple, no frills, and really cheesy, and cooked to a perfect medium.
Pulled Pork Sandwich
This was interesting to me. Not sure if it was the mix of ingredients that produced it, but I kept encountering notes of Hoisin with a barrage of other flavors. It was a good dish, but I wouldn't waste my time with it again.
Sweet Beer Battered Onion Rings
No amount of excess words can coverup a heavy, over-breaded onion ring.
Fried Chicken Sandwich
An awesomely done fried chicken sandwich. The pickles were tangy, egg was runny, chicken was crispy and juicy, and even though it had trouble staying together it all still ended up in my mouth the way I was shoveling it into my face. Not stood out on its own but together it was damn tasty.
Chicken Wings
Regular buffalo wings. Not even good ones. Maybe a few that Tyson would be proud of, but definitely not all of them.
Conclusion Daniel Patterson's attempt to elevate bar food laid out across 15 courses. Some were real good, some were plain regrettable. The menu spent a lot of time flip flopping back and forth between innovative and typical. The trend it stayed true to, most of the time when they stuck with traditional bar fare, it was a train-wreck. I can't wait for the expansion to see what gets better.
