Cheap Sewing Machine Review: Janome Mini/Basic/Fastlane/Derby
<They’re all the same machine>
I have a lot of people ask what a good, cheap sewing machine is. I own a lot of sewing machines, so I have opinions on the matter. My general rule is that you cannot buy a modern, new sewing machine that is better than most older sewing machines you can get at Goodwill for $20. Not better for the price. Just better.
As a collector of sewing machines, I do have a bias. I like all-metal machines. Plastic pieces don’t last 40 years, and they definitely don’t last 111 years, but cast iron and steel will not fail you even after a century. (well, that’s not completely correct. All the cast iron and steel machines made before 1901 that failed us did so 50+ years ago and were thrown out, so natural selection has ensured that the existing ones are worthwhile)
But, if you HAVE TO buy a modern sewing machine, and you have an extremely small budget, there’s some options.
First thing to consider: shipping costs money, even if you are buying somethign with “free shipping”. Someone’s got to pay the shipping dude. Shipping costs money. Most heavy packages cost more to ship than lightweight packages. Therefore, there’s a certain validity...I’m struggling to say this because it goes against everything I’ve said on this blog...certain...certain validity...okay there’s a certain validity to buying an all-plastic machine.
Urgh, I hate that I said that.
Anyway, someone returned one to my store and we just have to damage them out due to an agreement with our contractor, I bought it. First thing to note: almost ALL sewing machines I’ve bought new have had a small piece of fabric under the presser foot, with some sewing to confirm that all the stitches work. That’s not just on nice machines; I’ve gotten one of these with a $21 children’s toy machine. I’ve gotten one of these with a $3 handheld stapler-style machine. I did not get one with this machine. It didn’t inspire confidence.
So, after I did that test for myself, first thing I did was take the machine apart.
For starters, in case you didn’t know this, the little dot on the screw head means you use the screw head with the additional flutes instead of your regular phillips head. Any time you’re finding that one of your screws just won’t unscrew properly, look for the dot. Tip there.
Or maybe you can’t unscrew it because this screw is in a terrible place. Note that taking this cover plate off to access the bobbin casing and hook is absolutely a thing that you would reasonably do in regular machine maintenance. This is a thing that a reasonable end user would be expected to do, and the fact that you can’t do this with a normal screw driver (and that the machine doesn’t come with a specialty-shaped screwdriver, which some do) is utterly infuriating.
I’m also just biased against things that are designed to be thrown out instead of had basic maintenance performed on it. I’m semi-okay with things being thrown out instead of having moderate repairs done, but this is really basic maintenance here. You should be able to remove this plate instead of throwing out the machine because it’s dirty down there.
That said, it’s ALL plastic down there, so if you get a large thread jam, it’ll probably snap some part and you’ll have to throw it away.
Also, note that those screwposts are plastic. Be very careful that you’re not cross-threading them when you put the screws back on after you replace your throat plate...good thing those screws aren’t hard to reach or anything and it’ll be super easy to screw them in straight or something.
Throat plate grooves are metal and attached with screws. This means that, if another kind of throat plate was available, it could be switched.
There’s no work light in the upper part. A couple of metal parts in here for pieces that move a whole lot. The thread uptake lever is plastic, which makes me nervous. That’s a part that’s pretty easy to break off, and if it breaks, your whole machine is garbage now.
There’s also no slot in the thread uptake lever, so you have to thread the thread through the eye like you’d thread a needle. This is slow and it annoys me. Wheeler&Wilson had the slot in the thread uptake lever figured out in 1895 so I don’t know why Janome doesn’t have it in here in 2020. Okay, actually, it’s because the slot would add to the cost by requiring the piece to be metal, so now it REALLY bothers me. This is a corner that shouldn’t have been cut, since it results in this part being inferior in two different ways.
Also, note the funky looking presser foot. I don’t know why it’s shaped like that, but we’ll get back to it.
BTW if you took all the screws off the back plate and then panicked because one is longer than the others and you don’t know where it goes, the long one goes here. You’re welcome.
I don’t have pictures of the other guts but I can confirm that all the other gears are plastic.
As for sewing: the foot switch is just an on/off switch. There’s no variable speed. Plugging a Janome variable speed pedal into this one, unfortunately, doesn’t magically give us variable speed. A girl could dream.
The bobbin doesn’t declutch. This means that the needle still goes up and down while you’re winding the bobbin. This makes me very anxious. It’s actually kind of dangerous, so you might want to take the needle out before winding a bobbin. I don’t necessarily want an auto-declutch for this, but just having a manual declutch like on an old machine would be super great.
On the subject of safety, this machine also has no light and no on/off switch. This means that it looks like it’s off even when it’s on and, if you’re not careful, you could step on the foot switch without realizing it and sew through something you didn’t want to. Make sure to unplug it if you’re not using it.
Again, this thing is LOUD. I don’t know if that’s a side-effect of the plastic itself, or if it’s a side-effect of sloppy tolerances on the plastic parts, but it sounds a lot like a Big Mouth Boogy Bass novelty toy, without the singing.
The presser foot this comes with just utterly baffles me. What’s the purpose of the ridges? To make the needle harder to thread? is it a safety thing?
Regardless, it’s a standard low-shank foot, so you can make it into a snap-on adapter, or just replace it with a regular low-shank foot. However, the bar it attaches to is plastic, so you probably want a pretty lightweight foot to avoid stripping the screws.
In terms of stitches, you have a fully-variable centered straight stitch, a left-aligned straight stitch with a fixed length, three zigzag stitches that do not have variable length, a scallop stitch, and a tricot stitch. Why is the scallop stitch included? We just don’t know.
I’d love to have a variable-length zigzag, even if it’s only available in three widths. I’m not sure what’s going on with the internal cams that makes it not possible to control the length of the zigzags when they have the tech to control the length of the straight stitch, but I assume it makes money somehow.
When you get an all-plastic machine, you’re trading longevity of the machine for portability and price. Worth a note, if you want a portable machine that lasts, they do exist, just at a higher price point. But if your budget is under $100 and you’re okay treating a machine like it’s made of glass and throwing it out when the plastic parts wear down, this is a pretty good option. There’s no replacing parts since repair parts aren’t available, and they’re plastic, so they’re more likely to snap, but that comes with the plastic machine territory. As far as plastic machines go, I like it. The design is good. It’s nice and lightweight and it’s cheap.
It also feels cheap. Seriously, if you want this to last, treat it like glass. Don’t yank jammed thread out, keep the working parts clean, never ever oil it (don’t oil plastic parts ever!), be patient, always roll the handwheel towards you when pulling the fabric away until the thread releases, keep the presser foot up when you’re winding a bobbin, and just be very nice to it. And maybe invest in some earplugs to cut out the sound.
I don’t know if this is a case where this machine is notably worse than a $150 machine (especially a Singer one, since modern Singers’re kind of garbage in general). I know it is notably worse than your average $300 Brother or Janome, but it’s also less than a third the price. You’ll need to judge how much sewing you do, how much you need a variable zigzag, how much you’ll need a controllable speed, how much you can appreciate the sewing process when all you're hearing are the plastic gears and motors clacking together in an effort to barely sew some sort of seam.
But yes, as far as plastic machines go, it’s not terrible. It’s got a lot of features. Machines in this price range often are fixed straight stitch only and might not come with bobbin winders, have goofy tension systems that don’t work properly, and couldn’t sew a seam to save its life. This machine also uses commercially available bobbins and needles. It’s designed to function like a regular machine (hand wheel turns int he same direction, bobbin is dropped in normally, bobbin winding uses a common tension system, presser foot lever isn’t in a weird place) meaning that you could give this machine to a child who might be interested in learning to sew, with the idea that they could graduate to a more-featured machine that will last longer and sew thicker fabrics when they show they’ll still have interest in sewing next month. This comes in a ton of colors, which, let’s be real, is why I bought this.
This is also great if you don’t sew entire garments or quilts from scratch, but you want a machine on hand to do repair work or small alterations. Just save up for another machine and keep an eye out at your local thrift stores to see if a good machine pops up there.