Pruning! It’s part of the key skill set for any gardener. While plants will grow without it, pruning is a valuable technique for encouraging new growth, shaping particular forms and sizes, increasing yields and preventing diseases.
TOOLS:
Before Jerry even begins, he takes an inventory of the tools he will use for the job. Different tools are used for different parts of the tree in different ways, namely
Secateurs: fine work on soft to semi-hard material. Great for thinning foliage or new shoots, but avoid trying to get through thicker wood
Loppers: Jerry describes these as halfway between secateurs and a saw. They’re a bit heavier and physically harder to use than the secateurs, but can make short work of thicker branches (by use of a ratchet mechanism) that seccies wouldn’t even scratch
Folding hand saw: “Small and narrow, it’s nimble and can fit into confined spaces like a congested tree crown” Will make a precise cut on hard wood
Extension tree pruner: a lopper on the end of a long pole, to be used in the same way as the lopper for branches out of reach
Extension tree saw: Similar to the folding saw, but on the end of a long pole. Used in the same way, but for limbs and branches out of reach from the pruner
Bow saw: Necessary for getting through the thickest branches, but Jerry notes the size and sawing motion “requires more clearance”.
JERRY’S 4 STEP PLAN TO TAKE BACK YOUR LIFE:
Looking at a tree that’s become a mess can be overwhelming. Where to begin? What stays and what goes? Fortunately, Jerry has a 4 step patented methodology that makes it easy. This approach not only works for mangoes, it can be applies to any fruit tree you need to prune.
1. Identify structural branches and work back from these. Structural branches are the largest branches that hold up the trees canopy. We want to keep these to preserve the architecture and overall shape and integrity of the tree, so it’s important to be aware of them before we launch into a frenzy
2. Remove any dead, diseased or dying wood. These are the first priority and should be pruned with impunity. Dead wood can be identified by scratching the bark with a fingernail; live material will be green underneath, dead will be grey. Look for signs of visible signs of decay like borer holes, snapped branches, fungus, scratched or split bark.
3. Crossing branches. Branches that cross over or near to each other can rub in the wind. This gradually shears off the protective bark, creating a window for infections to get inside the tree. Preventatively removing the branch prevents the friction.
4. Clearing out the interior of the tree in this way also has another benefit; boosting airflow through the tree. This helps to prevent diseases, as many fungus pathogens prefer damp, still and shaded leaves.
Work on the crown and canopy. Now that you’ve done the immediate first aid, it’s time to work on the overall crown of the tree. Jerry says it’s important to maintain fruit trees at “a safe picking height”, to prevent accidents when harvesting fruit or doing occasional pruning.
AFTER PRUNING CARE
Jerry warns to avoid any after-pruning wound treatments or preparations, as these only “seal disease into the plant and impair natural healing”.
Now that Jerry’s gone to all the trouble of pruning these trees, he wants to make sure they’re well prepared for the rebound. The grass underneath is vigorous, and would be competing for valuable water and nutrients. Jerry will brush-cut it to keep it down.
We can expect this tree to respond within the year, usually with a significant fruit set. Jerry might just check back in to pick up a box of mangoes or two.
Pruning a fruit tree needn’t be a daunting task. With the right tools and following some simple methodology, it can be a fun way to spend an afternoon. And the results will quite literally be the fruits of your labour.
