Let your S(e)oul take you where you long to be - pt 1
a.k.a. finally writing my phantom korea travelogue
Watching Phantom in Korea has been this big goal of mine since December 2012.
When I saw the vast spread of Phantom merchandise at the Blue Square theatre and how they decked the theatre with a Phantom tree and had all sorts of Phantom-themed food, it became crystal clear that Korea goes hard for Phantom like no other, and I wanted to be part of that action.
I planned to visit Seoul when the World Tour revival was slated to visit in 2020, but that one got axed and squashed as a pandemic would do to hopes and dreams.
Cut to October 2021, news of a new Korean production got out around, but I was pessimistic. The borders were still closed and who knew for how much longer. Even as they started reopening toward 2022, there was a quarantine / covid-19 test requirement upon arrival. Then our local Korean embassy started taking a hardhanded stance on applications that made it difficult for visas to be issued. Add to that, the fact that the embassy have limited slots every month.
The odds were wildly stacked against me, but travel restrictions eased up and nothing serves as a better motivator than watching people you know actually go to the place.
Months of mental prep, doing things for the first time, and many expenditures later, I was deemed worthy of a visa. The next step was a ticket to the show…which was an entirely different main quest on its own.
Buying show tickets in Korea is like a national sport
I witnessed this during the first waves of Phantom Seoul tickets sale. The moment the dates open, you would find most of the tickets are already gone. So you are left to buy what's left but even when you manage to click on one, another person is likely completing their purchase ahead of you.
I did manage to snag a Jeon Dong-seok ticket. But the Cho Seung-woo one, I didn't manage to get until a month later.
I have to pause and thank @fadinglandtragedy for actually answering my questions, providing valuable tips, and encouraging me when I myself have given up lol.
The beauty of tickets in Korea is you can actually cancel and if you are early, you can get your money back with minimal processing fee. That means cancellations peek now and then when the ticket vendors refresh their systems everyday. I was able to move to a better row for my JDS show, and I eventually managed to buy my CSW ticket (that no one fought me for 😭😭😭😭😭).
But it took extreme patience, nightly refreshes, and trying not to nod asleep. It was worth it in the end.
So I only had to find a decent airfare, accommodations, and wake up insanely early to catch the flight, and print out all the things to prove to the immigration officer that I'm not pulling a Valjean on his Javert. 🥲🥲🥲
Tip: Overseas fans can buy through Yes24 and Global Interpark, but I highly recommend Yes24 for the exclusive ticket sleeves and the fact that they have a mobile app that you can use to book, stalk last-minute tickets, and eventually claim them.
Tip 2: For faster purchase using Yes24, look into loading your cc info in Paypal so you'd just be one click away to everything. For some reason I found the native cc method a bit harder to deal with (and it charged me more for some reason).
Korea things and hopefully an actual review to follow!
I was doing a bit of housekeeping in my tumblr desktop and links page (since they were neglected 3 years ago 💀) and it's with sadness that I put an end year to the 2019 World Tour revival. Just two years. The engines were just revving up for that show. It could run for twice longer and maybe even more.
I know the Phantom World Tour is no exception to the blight of yesteryears, so many plans were derailed and some unfortunately to a more permanent capacity. I guess we'll always mourn for the what-ifs, and the pandemic put a lot of time and opportunities to waste.
But alas no point crying, right? Life goes on. In the meantime, there is much to see and do, Phantom or not. And maybe who knows, the stars might align again for another revival.
(and yes, my desktop and links page are now updated haha: http://roadtophantom.tumblr.com)
LISTEN i thought im fine but the world tour has Always been a replica tour even if it's been trimmed down. I'm afraid I cannot accept any substitute. 😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬 /old man shouts at cloud
Let your S(e)oul take you where you long to be - The Charlotte Theatre
pt 2 of my Seoul travelogue
August is high summer in Korea, actually a crazy month to see Phantom, but timings just lined up that way and also a part of me is just scared what if I put this off for so long and something comes up. 😬😬
Do check @fadinglandtragedy's very comprehensive ticketing and Korea travel post on what to expect, but I also will share some of my personal observations below!
About Charlotte Theatre
How to get there
Easy to find from the Jamsil subway station (just follow the arrows) but prepare for a maze if you are coming from the Lotte World Tower mall. The mall complex is HUGE. For the two days I was there, I had to go to the English-speaking info counter or ask the roaming guards — one of them was not even aware there's a theatre in the area. 😭 Actually, maybe the Naver maps app might provide more insight…
Where to eat
The Charlotte Theatre has an in-house fancy restaurant and a nearby Angel-in-us cafe, which sells cakes and sandwiches. But if you're looking for a warm, filling meal, you're probably better off eating elsewhere.
Tip: There's a Lotte Mart B1-B2 of the Lotte World Tower mall, and you can take an early dinner at their food court or take out their boxed foods to heat at your accommodations later. They also slash off the prices of certain food late in the afternoon, so yay discounts!
Note that after the evening show, you'll come out to a closed mall, and places in Seoul close early at night unless you're around the night market. I had to fend off with some ramen at the nearest convenience store on my first show day.
Ofc you can also eat at the mall proper, but the selections are not that wide. Also take note that Lotte World Tower mall is a luxury mall…
Where to hang out
If you've got time to burn and you just want to explore the area near the theatre, the Lotte World Tower area doesn't only have a mall, but also a famous amusement park, an aquarium, an observatory, a posh department store, underground shops, and a nearby lake (Seokchon Lake). The Lotte cinemas play the Phantom Korea ad on these gigantic monitors by the entrance - super impressive 👌. As for me, I shopped at Olive Young! As your girl would.
Dress code
I saw a lot of casual wear, actually! Jeans, sneakers, and even shorts. They don't seem strict. Just be presentable and absolutely no harm if you decide to wear a dress and something a bit more formal. I did see at least one cosplayer with a Victorian-inspired look.
Floors
The theatre has two levels of seats but the building itself has four floors in all (the seating is at the third and fourth). Make sure to go through all four! There's so much Phantom to see.
Second level seating
I can't speak for the first level, but I sat at the second level and there was hardly any leg room. You will really have to squeeze in and ask the occupants to please give way. I just did as the Seoullites do and said 잠시만요 (jamsimanyo) whenever I have to pass through.
Restroom
There are washrooms at the third (or second?) and fourth floor of the theatre with numerous cubicles. The fourth floor tends to be less crowded by virtue of being at a higher level I suppose.
Photo zones
1st floor - The rose and mask background and a digital casting board (the pink bear at the entrance is leaving after August)
2nd floor - The whole casting board
3rd floor - The Ghost mascot
4th floor - Charlotte Theatre's restaurant and a smaller casting board
The stairs are lined with Phantom masks and roses.
Merchandise
First floor and third floor of the theatre, they charge 100 KRW for a paper bag, but it's not very sturdy. The brochure is thick and glorious and a MUST buy. If you're an enamel pin collector, there's a couple of Seoul exclusives. Then there's just phone stuff, shirts, towel, a mask, albums...idk I def preferred the ones at Blue Square 10 years ago.
Access
There's an escalator going to the second floor of the theatre but beyond that, you have to take the lift or take the stairs.
Waiting area
Just plop on one of the plush seats scattered around the theatre or chill by the tables.
Theatre etiquette
The usual, eating and drinking inside are not allowed and I wish I understand half of what the ushers are saying but you absolutely can't film the curtain call. The ushers will find you. (Not me, I saw someone did it).
Indoor temperature
Not sure what the weather is now but the theatre was like a sauna when I visited. I decided to go sleeveless on my second day (something that is not often seen among Koreans, they usually cover with a cute outerwear, but you do see it). Not sure how this will be in the fall months, but I def didn't need to wear a sweater or anything.
View from the second floor
People asked me why I didn't go for VIP tickets when I'm rarely in Seoul. It is because, my friend, I am a cheapskate and the tickets are really expensive. 😭😭😭😭 And I planned to see the show twice. There's also the fact that I'm not actually fluent in Korean, I pick up bits and pieces from watching Korean drama. 🤓 So I thought, I don't need to be close too much. I DID cave in and bought a set of binoculars, which I highly recommend if you wanna zoom in to the acting. The theatre does rent out binoculars but you'll need a Korean number. :/
That said, it's a great view even if you sit at the back and you can see the chandelier closely and make out Jeon Dong-seok's silhouette on the angel and think, "Good God he IS tall…This thing can hold his weight, right?"
Just be mindful of your height, if you are short like me, maybe don't take the first row of the balcony coz you'll have to tilt your neck to look over the railing or move in front and you might get called out for it.
When I saw my non-Phantom show, I was taking photos of the theatre (Seoul Arts Centre) before the show started and I think the guy behind me got concerned that I'd be doing this often ;_; so he asked me (in Korean) if I could please lean against my seat. Annnd ever since I tried to keep glued to my chair and got scared to even stretch my neck lol.
After the show
Just retrace your way to the subway or follow your maps app. Do not be like me and just blindly follow where the audiences are going coz that led me to an underground parking lot at close to 12 AM in the morning and I had to run back up the stairs to chase the last train. 👍
Bring an umbrella
It rains now and then and there's a bit of a walk to the station and not all foot paths are covered. Again, do not be like me.
Stage door
To this date, the closest to a "stage-door" experience (the 'way home') is after a Cho Seung-woo show (provided it's not stormy). Because the actor does come out to the parking lot to briefly greet and wave at fans before going home (by car or a motorbike — yes, he'll pass and wave at people even from a motorbike). That is the full extent of it - no signatures or selfies. I think it's understandable as covid is still a real threat. As for the other actors, I only see them rushing out, ducking, and bowing (and for Song Eun-hye's case, putting on a helmet and hopping on a kickboard 😄).
Prepare to wait for 45 minutes for CSW to come out though.
i'm absolutely not feeling gutted that two of the things I've been so amped to buy tickets for are completely out of my reach because of this pandemic.
There's a new covid outbreak in SK right now that has led to cancelations of some shows. Some have taken stricter measures by asking the audience not to drink water (so no one has to remove their mask) and not to shout during the curtain call (reminds me of that scream ban in Japanese theme parks - 'scream inside your heart') . Hope the World Tour keeps safe in Daegu. 🤞🤞
