Why They Loved Small Prints
Small prints were the most popular kind for most of the 20th Century, and you can see why if you consider the cut of this dress. The skirt of this 1940s dress can only flare and nip in at the waist via the multiple gores, but to cut up a large print would look awkward as piecing it would be impossible. Enter the small print in a cheap rayon, which is busy enough that the lines of the pieces themselves disappear. This was actually my test muslin to see if it fit. Then, I altered the pattern in various ways when I cut it out in a burgundy wool crepe for a work dress.
But I realized that the muslin could be tweaked enough to work fit well as well. The bustline was too low, so I took it up from the shoulders, and then trimmed the sleeves down so that the sleeve openings would match as much as possible, and the excess was gathered softly at the top of the sleeve. I made the neckline a little deeper after that and I will trim it with a ruffle when I am done. The hemline is much longer because the original dress was too long for me and rayon fabric stretches. So, I will cut this one at tea length and leave it at that. To take up the hem to just below the knee would eliminate so much of the flare of the skirt, it is better to go with the longer length.
So, remember to muslin in something cheap but whose color you like as you may find it worth your while to actually finish it.