Decided to skip the "To be continued..." and just move onto the wicked day we had today.
Nicko and Roycee went to bed like a couple of soft-ons whilst I donned my party shoes and headed to Lapa last night for the street party. It was off the chain. I got home at 6.30am.
THEN... I had to wake up at 1pm to go on our first cultural tour of Brazil.
I swiftly doused myself in a few litres of water and took a multi-vitamin (or in other words... a mad placebo), got my shit together and headed downstairs to wait for the tour guide to pick us up. The guide was a little late but it all fell into place and soon enough we were on our way to our first destination around Rio in a mad little kombi van.
Maracana Stadium is the future location of the 2014 world cup. It is due for renovation but I have to say, it's in pretty mint condition for a stadium built 60 years ago. Apparently, after the World War II, it was a tough decision as to who would host the next world cup. Basically, nobody wanted the job, but the football hungry Brazilians were the perfect choice. They built a stadium to house 200,000 people and they did it in a mere two years.
It used to be standing room only, with a VIP section cordoned off with seats meant for visiting Royals, parliamentary dudes and dudettes and media celebrities. Otherwise, everyone just packed in and partying.
Maracana is a radical stadium which is perfectly set up for tours. They have a hall of fame, cemented footprints of all the legendary players (Hollywood's Chinese Theatre styles), a museum and a few gift shops thrown in for good measure. We were taken into the dressing rooms, up into the stands and out onto the field. You don't actually get to set foot on the field because there is a chance your dirty hooves will tear up the turf and one of their star players might take an ACTUAL spill as opposed to the ones you see televised from which they recover miraculously after the penalty has been awarded.
Next up: Parque das Ruinas.
Our guide, Orlando, told us that long ago, a beautiful young lady had married a rich old man (standard). He died shortly after they were married (standard). She's left with this giant mansion with 270 degree views of Rio so instead of getting married to some other old geezer, she sets the house up as the place to be if you want to party. Apparently there was much partying at the house until the young lady eventually died of old age.
All that partying and she had made no friends worthy of leaving her house to. The house is abandoned and the drug dealers quickly move in, take anything of worth and then use the shell of the house to cook drugs and sell them. This debauchery goes on until about 10 years ago when the local government decides to reclaim the house and turn it into a cultural centre.
The result is a semi-dilapidated house with a sexy steel skeleton and an almost panoramic view of the city below. Sensational.
Now its off to Lapa, to see the famed Selaron Stairs.
20 years ago, an eccentric Chilean by the name of Selaron moved to Rio. He'd already travelled through 50 countries but decided that Rio was the city in which he would create his life's work. He pretty much just picked this shitty old set of stairs in Lapa, and began tiling the front of them and the walls surrounding in the colours of the Brazilian flag: green, yellow and blue.
He mixed in with these coloured tiles, tiles that he'd collected during his travels throughout the world. Now, mixed in with all this tiling fun and frivolity, are tiles people have sent him from around the world as well as loads of tiles he's painted himself which all depict a pregnant, black lady (apparently something from his past that he refuses to talk about).
The sides of the steps are adorned with discarded bathtubs, cemented in, colourfully tiled and full of plants. The effect is pretty wonderful and it's easy to see how one man could get lost in the work for 20 years.
At the top of the stairs we found the man himself, up to the elbows in tiling cement, rocking a huge moustache which connects to his wiry sideburns and charismatically calling down to our tour guide, who happens to know him very well. Amazing. We met him and he actually let us set a couple of tiles, chatted to us (through our guide as a translator) and talked shit with us for about half an hour. What an experience.
That crazy rendez vous done and dusted, we headed to the bottom of the hill for our first taste of Açai. Orlando told us that the açai sold from the little cart at the bottom of the stairs is the best in Rio. Bearing in mind that I've never tried the stuff before... I can categorically say that it is. It's fucking delicious. Açai is a berry which they freeze, blend with a few other secret ingredients and then top with toasted granola and it is the absolute KING of all hangover cures. Apparently the Açai berry is very rich in omega somethings blah blah blah... It's fucking delicious.
Pushing along and running a little behind schedule after our extended visit with Selaron, we set out for Sugar Loaf or Pão de Açúcar. Again, another amazing story to go with another amazing landmark. In 1912, a super rich Brazilian returned from studying in Switzerland. He dreamed of building a gondola to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain. Right now, with all the technology humankind has at its disposal, this would seem like just another construction job. But in 1912!? Whilst looking up from the second tier of the gondola ride to the highest point of Sugar Loaf Mountain, we couldn't help but marvel at the sheer manpower which would have been necessary to build this thing.
Words and photos (though we did manage to snap a couple of pearlers!) can not describe this technological marvel, or the view from the top, especially at sunset. You'll just have to go there.
Our guide, Orlando, had been so amazing that we asked to buy him dinner and he graciously accepted. At his suggestion, we went to an all you can eat sushi (YES! FINALLY!) place and chowed on some of the finest sushi we've ever had the liberty of enjoying.
The perfect end to a perfect day.