Here’s a JHS Morning Glory build I was troubleshooting.
The two red circles were some cuts that weren’t cut properly.
both have a sliver of continuity with the strip towards the bottom of the cuts.
seen from Malaysia
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Here’s a JHS Morning Glory build I was troubleshooting.
The two red circles were some cuts that weren’t cut properly.
both have a sliver of continuity with the strip towards the bottom of the cuts.
Finished Board Pics (1981 DRV)
These are just a few pictures of a completed board.
I usually populate the board in groups of parts in steps (links, sockets, resistors, diodes, caps, etc.).
Sometimes I do them all at once if it’s a smaller build. Larger builds I will try to take my time and will definitely do only one set of parts at a time, checking that I have put all parts in.
I haven’t had any experiences with parts blowing up on me, yet. I’m pretty sure I’ve burnt out a few LEDs and maybe a cap because I messed up or omitted another component.
I refrain from doing a lot of builds when I’m overly tired; I end up making mistakes and ruining builds.
Once I am done the build (soldering all components and double checking that everything is in order) I hook it up to my Test Box and test rig.
If works = :), if it doesn’t = >:(
SmartParallel: stripboard prototype - now with blinkenlights
SmartParallel: stripboard prototype – now with blinkenlights
Okay, so the next stage of the stripboard prototype for the SmartParallel serial to parallel printer interface went well. Mostly.
As planned, I added a bar LED block with eight segments to show the state of the data lines, along with power-limiting resistors in the form of a resistor array.
I also added four LEDs. Three are driven via a 74HC14 inverter IC and show the state of the /ERROR (red…
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SmartParallel: stripboard prototype
SmartParallel: stripboard prototype of a serial to parallel dot matrix printer interface
Things went from bad to worse with the breadboard prototype of the SmartParallel serial to parallel printer interface.
All was fine for a while. Lines of text sent from my Mac via an FTDI cable were duly printed on the Epson MX-80 F/T III dot matrix printer. But then, every now and again, the printer would randomly reset. After a while, these resets got closer and closer together until they were…
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Hi, thanks very much for your precision adder layout, just the thing I'd like to use with the Korg SQ 1 and 0 coast. I cannot find the schematic though on your page, do you have it please? I can only see the stripboard image from fritzing. Perhaps you could post the schematic and the .fzz file? That would be awesome! Thanks again, all the best for the new year! Regards, Robin
Hey, thanks for the note! That is weird, I swore I had posted the schematic as well before. I will amend that post about the precision adder by adding the schematic image.I agree that the Fuzzmeasure (.fzz) file would be useful as well - just not sure if I can post arbitrary file types to Tumblr. Might have to choose an off-site sharing solution for that.Oh, and one thing I would change now about the schematic – despite what my note on there says, I would definitely generate the 5v (for normalling to input C) onboard, rather than use the 5v line from the power supply. The reason, as I discovered, is that even with a high quality power supply (Doepfer), the 5v line is somewhat dirty with power supply switching noise. Apparently, the 5v line is primarily intended to power digital circuitry, so piping it directly into a pathway that might be used for audio, and subsequently passed through high gain stages, can expose that noise.
Something's brewing..! Can't wait to show you the result! Well, this is one of these projects who will never be finished, but grow bigger and bigger.. By the time I'm 268 years old I'll be half way there, according to my own calculations that is. #diy #diyelectronics #stripboard #waitandsee #thiswillmakesound #hopefully https://www.instagram.com/p/BrKpYYNA7CD/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=xpajfbti2k9
Looks about right hopefully
Arduino Soldering Project: Final Product