So, I woke up with the sunrise at 6:30. Checking the surf cams from Pacific Beach to Hermosa, the sun was out and it was a clean 4 to 5 foot day from the west, glassy and offshore (especially up in L.A.). But by the time I had eaten, suited up and paddled out at 10:37 -- I checked my watch the moment I made it outside -- there was a brisk onshore chop screwing up the waves, and the tide was on its way pushing up quickly onto the dry sand. I caught one wave, did a couple of cutbacks and came in. I want that into it to take this time out of my busy day for this. #backtowork #surfandwork #surflife #gypsysurf #southerncalifornia https://www.instagram.com/p/B3FzohrlSUw/?igshid=13xl80yaxp6vy













