A class handout by Elsa von Schammach
Use these measurements for the diagram below:
A: Shoulder seam to ground (or intended length):_____ x2:_____ +2:_____
B: Widest point of bust (across nipples):_____ /4:_____ +4:_____
C: Diameter of arm at widest point (bicep):_____ /2:_____ +2:_____
Measure twice, and use the bigger number: taking-in will be easier than letting-out. The number you take is the base-line number. Dividing or multiplying will make your measurements match the fabric. The added numbers are seam allowance. I don't use a full 1" seam, so this number also serves as minimal ease for comfortable movement.
Cut the Scrap panel out. Do NOT cut other lines. :-)
Because options for necklines can be wildly varied, I'm going to start simple with a Keyhole neckline using an inside facing.
We'll use one of the scrap pieces for the fabric.
D: Snug around neck, just above your collarbone:_____ /4____
Note: This will NOT go over your head. We'll get to that step later.
Take the last measurement from D as a length of string or on a tape measure. Align it on the scrap fabric as shown in Step 1. No worries if the alignment isn't perfect - the next step will let you figure that out. Cut out the 1/4 oval formed from the string held in a "J" formation. (You might want to use tailor's chalk or pins to draw the line before cutting it.)
Unfold the fabric. Cut a short slit from one of the narrow ends (as shown as line E). Try it on. Repeat increasing the slit and trying it on until it fits. Check it out in the mirror to make sure it fits in a way that looks good to you.
Too narrow will rub on the sides of your neck
Deep in the back may feel weird
Too wide on the sides may look odd with some garb layers.
Grab the neckline template at your shoulder seams while pulling it off. You should grab it right about at the dotted line (F) above the centerline. The line of your shoulder seams will line up with the folded torso centerline.
Copy your neckline pattern onto scrap fabric (thick plastic or ugly patterned fabric is awesome for this) so you don't have to do exactly this work again - you'll have it as a shortcut next time you want to make a shirt.
Zig-zag around the outside edge of the neckline facing. This piece of fabric won't be attached to anything at the outside, so you'll want to prevent it from fraying.
Use these measurements for the diagram below:
G: Natural waist to hemline*: _____
H: Narrower than the torso panel width, wider than 5":_____
I: 1" from the side on BOTH narrow ends
J: Straight line between the two points at the narrow ends
*You can "cheat" this measurement by subtracting (ie cutting off from the original scrap) the distance between your armpit and natural waist.
You'll end up with four triangles as shown in the diagram.
Two little squares (total) make a world of difference in mobility and longevity of tunics.
Sew flat sides to flat sides; butt the points of the diamond into the intersection of the armpit.
It's a little tricky, so I found you a tutorial, in case that will help.
I tend to make mine 4 inches by 2 inches, as a diamond, not square.
You've got all the pieces cut out now!
Take your torso piece, and make sure the folds we made at the very beginning are crisp and lines will remain after unfolding. (Linen is good for this. Other fabrics: you'll want to draw the lines on with tailor's chalk.)
Unfold the torso piece and lay it flat on a table or other work surface. It'll be lower-case t-shaped, with short, thinner arms and a long, thick main beam.
First, work on the neckline - it's easiest while the fabric is flat.
Align your neckline facing centered on the "yoke" area, with the shoulder-seam line on the fold line at the top of the sleeves.
Pin the neckline in place - on the right-side of the fabric to use the scrap-fabric piece as a facing.
When its secure, cut out the inside of the neckline, using only a single straight-line cut in the same place as on the template.
Sew it in place with scant seams.
Flip the facing into the wrong-side.
Top-stitch along the opening to keep it securely in place. This will be pretty straightforward if you're hand-sewing. If you machine-sew, be very careful with the front point of the slit - it tends to bunch.
Sew the gores as indicated, with the right angles out, and the point of the right angle even with the bottom line of the torso panel. That placement will help you get an even hemline when you trim off the extra points.
Sew the gussets half-way in. When you fold the tunic back together (wrong-side out during construction), you'll be able to sew the second half in a straight line.
Align the two halves of the tunic to their proper, final alignment. Start from the sleeve and work toward the bottom hem, being careful to not leave holes at the gussets and gores.
Hem the sleeve ends and bottom of the tunic. I like double-rolled hems for this application: Fold toward the wrong side, then fold again so the cut edge is protected/hidden. Sew the roll in place.
Hold on to the rest of the scrap for things including:
Extending the length of your sleeves (before rolling the hem)
Patchwork for German Landsknecht garb
Libby Snyder. January 4, 2015. First Draft.
