Notes created for the cast of the Medieval Fair of Norman intended as a good starting point for costumers made nervous by curved lines.
Meaurements and suggested cutting layout for this tunic are here
Cut out 4 body panels, 2 sleeves, 2 gussets, and some* gores.
Sew 2 body pieces down the long edge. This makes your back panel. **Optional for skirt volume: sew butt gore into back seam**
Sew the other 2 body pieces down long edge. This makes the front panel
Sew the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders
Trace a circle with a 3" radius (6" diameter) with the center 1" down the front center seam (This places 2/3 of the circle on the front panels and 1/3 on the back panels). Cut this out & seam rip ~2-4" down the center seam of the front. This makes the keyhole neckline we use for trying on our mockup.
Center one of the sleeves along the shoulder seam. Repeat for the other side.
Sew the gusset (armpit) into the right angle formed by the sleeve and the body. Repeat for the other side.
7. Attach gores to the body panels as depicted in diagram on left. If gores are in multiple pieces (i.e. 4 or more right triangles, as instructed in the prior post, see diagram on right.)
8. Fold tunic in half and start sewing along the outside edge. Gussets should be folded diagonally making armpit "triangles" when viewed from the front.
You now have a T tunic! start fitting and making adjustments as desired. Consider the following suggestions:
pinch and pin along the sleeve to tighten the fit. mark and trim if the sleeve is too long.
pinch and pin under the widest part of the chest and along any part of the torso with too much ease.
mark how wide you want your neck to be, if wider than the keyhole neckline.
consider moving your gores up or down to start at your natural waist or hip.
Consider narrowing or shortening gusset if it has too much of a bat wing. Gussets can also be a "kite" shape with the long narrow end pointing down the arm and the short end into the body.