#taxidermytips

[rogue-taxidermy-of-sarina-brewer]

#TaxidermyTipTuesday ~

I employ, and enjoy, a lot of the old-school taxidermy techniques. Making wrapped wire tails is one of them. If the species you’re working with doesn’t have a fluffy tail that conceals inconsistencies in the diameter of your wrapped tail then it’s a job you can’t rush. Luckily I find the slow repetitive winding of the fibers meditative even though it can sometimes be monotonous as well. Back in the late 1990’s when I was learning taxidermy I bought my tail wrapping fiber from VanDyke's Taxidermy Supplies and they called it “jeweler’s tow” in their catalog. I don’t hear it called that anymore but I think it was simply combed jute or hemp(?) But that’s neither here nor there because my go-to these days is combed flax tow. I think it sticks to itself better and is easier to control than spun hemp or jute. The first layer inside a big thick tail like this one is cotton batting. Then I wrap the flax over the cotton. In many situations I find it beneficial to draw a midline onto the finished wrapped tail so I stay on track as I sew the hide onto it. (Make sure to use a marker that isn’t water water-soluble or it will bleed and could stain your fur) As mentioned, wrapping a tail is an old-school taxidermy technique. These days, for most larger species, you can buy flexible prefab molded urethane tails with a wire center. I still prefer to wrap my own tails because I find it easier to remove excess fiber from a wrapped tail versus shaving down a prefab tail if I find the skin is fitting too tightly once I’m in the process of sewing the skin over my tail. Just a personal preference. I know a lot of people prefer prefab because of the time they can save, but to each their own.

[rogue-taxidermy-of-sarina-brewer]

Before and after a mount manicure. Wrapping up a very special piece for a very special [and patient] patron. Some people might consider this overly obsessive attention to detail but now these delicate thin claws are far less likely to get broken. I developed this technique about 18 years ago and use it on birds, mammals, and reptiles that have fragile and/or brittle nails. I also do it to hooves. First step is sanding the nails with ultra fine sandpaper to remove any white flaking keratin layers. Step two; nails get saturated with Minwax wood hardener which penetrates beneath the surface and into the nail fibers so they can’t continue to flake. Then the concave underside of the nails gets filled with 10-minute epoxy which reinforces the nails and strengthens them while insuring the nails can never split. After a couple of days when everything has cured they get a final buffing with extra fine steel wool to knock down the high-gloss of the wood hardener. Last step is a thin coat of satin-finish clear enamel. I love the natural color of animal claws and hooves and the subtle color transition from the base of the nail to the semi-translucent tips and edges. A manicure really showcases their beauty.

[rogue-taxidermy-of-sarina-brewer]

This fur stripping tool is a must-have; the “Furminator”. It’s designed for living animals but works equally well for taxidermy purposes. When it comes to creating taxidermy mounts, it seems like a lot of people prefer an animal with a winter coat because the fur is at its thickest. Personally, when given the choice I avoid winter coats. An animal that has put on its winter weight can be a pain to skin because there is a lot more fat to scrape off, versus an animal in summer pelage. Additionally, winter pelts often need degreasing before and after tanning while lean summer animals require less cleaning so you can get away with a single degreasing, or no degreasing depending on the species. But the main reason I don’t like working with winter animals is because their fur is too fluffy for the specialized types of pieces I create. I prefer a low-loft coat that hugs the armature/mannequin and creates a sleeker profile. A Furminator effectively combs out the puffy woolly undercoat while leaving the slick top coat/guard hairs in place. (as shown in this photo of a fox that I’m working on) A Furminator can be used before the animal is skinned or after it’s mounted, albeit if doing the latter you will need to be a bit more restrained so you don’t tear the hide. #TaxidermyTips #TaxidermyProcess #Taxidermist #FemaleTaxidermist #WomanTaxidermist #Furminator #FurCraft #AnimalHides #AnimalHide #AnimalPelt #AnimalPelts https://www.instagram.com/p/B_XZHpMAduh/?igshid=49edzadq1y3l

[rogue-taxidermy-of-sarina-brewer]

Taxi Tip Tuesday ~

IF YOU OWN ANY TAXIDERMY, READ THIS Although this is a mundane post, it is an extremely important one if you own taxidermy. Spring has sprung and insects are actively searching for food sources and places to reproduce. All taxidermy mounts are susceptible to insect damage no matter how good the taxidermy job was. Fur and feathers are targeted by the same moths that destroy wool sweaters, and a variety of beetles seek out residual flesh on the underside of animal hides. Freeze-dried taxidermy mounts are exceptionally vulnerable because all muscle tissue is still inside of the mount. Just as precautions need to be taken with the storage of wool garments, taxidermy mounts also need to be cared for. Pictured is a No-Pest Strip. I keep one in the room that houses the bulk of my taxidermy collection year round. I replace the strip twice a year and always make sure to install a fresh one first thing in the spring. You can remove the yellow strip from the white plastic casing and cut it into small chunks. These chunks can be discreetly placed inside display cases, which is what I do to protect my animal mummy collection. Residue from the stick can damage surfaces it comes into contact with, so I put the chunks in a small plastic container with holes drilled in it. I use the tiny clear containers that restaurants put sauce into when I get carry-out (as pictured here) In addition to utilizing a No-Pest Strip, once a year I mist my freeze-dried mounts with a product called Protex Mount Care. (You can also use a cedar oil tincture, which is a natural way to repel insects) Taking preemptive action is key because once you have an infestation it can be difficult to completely eradicate. Your collection will also have a higher chance of becoming reinfested in the future for that reason. Bugs in taxidermy will also eventually find their way into your clothing (and vice versa.) This can happen to anyone, so always better safe than Sorry. ~ Please share this post with other taxidermy enthusiasts.