We landed in Dublin (Baile Átha Cliath) after the blur of Xanax and an overnight flight. We're both nervous flyers, and we had to cloud our minds in order to cross the Atlantic without any tears. But we landed smoothly on an early (and sunny?) Irish morning in Dublin airport, where Emma's aunt Helen picked us up from our flight.
She was red cheeked and jovial, and so was the rest of her family! I met every cousin, distant aunt, childhood friend, and estranged sister that Emma's family could find: we were spoon fed eggs, brown bread, butter, and steaks: the foreign misses were obliged to taste Ireland's cuisine...during every dinner we were invited to. But goodness, I felt like I was family. I practiced my irish (a bilingual state! Learn some Gaelic before you go), went to rugby games (where we knew the players!), and her young cousins took us out to downtown Dublin so we could explore the cobbled streets with drunken vision. We never got drunk, Everything closed early, but we traipsed to The Stag's Head and around Temple Bar (which, be forewarned, is apparently more dangerous than New York!) until the night began becoming friendly with morning.
Emma and I visited The Guinness Factory, which isn't quite a brewery, but more of an informative museum and big advertisement for Artur Guinness' greatness and their thick black beer. But the visitor ticket gives you a free drink (free, guys), and a top floor view that offers a nice birdseye of the pint sized city. Really. The houses are short and bricklayed, which gives the town a dated and romantic feel. It felt smaller than I imagined, but maybe we just nuzzled too much with her family, and forgot our age- thereby forgetting how to party and challenge the city. But honestly, I felt at home and felt no need to go beyond the comfortable conversation that her aunts provided. A family stay is quite another way to experience a place, and I think, a more honest one.
So, I suggest that if you go to Dublin, find a grandmother, and stay with her. She'll be able to share more with you than an empty hotel room and a lonely shot of whiskey can.
We also went to the countryside in Glendalough! Saw sheep from afar, and walked by waterfalls and mystical forests. I felt that I could smell some magic brewing at my toes, and like a spell, almost lost myself in the greenery. Ireland is very green, and you must make sure you go fairy hunting when walking through the trees.
So, Cheers! Sláinte! Have a great time in Ireland, my lovelies!
...also visit the Dun Laoghaire pier (pronounced "Dun Leery", I kid you not). It's a nice walk along the edge of the ocean. Don't get hit by the waves like we did.