Duuuuuuude.
I... I think I’m in love...
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Duuuuuuude.
I... I think I’m in love...
reignofmethanol:
V-4 Midget Engine.
You Fail Me (song) by Converge is a maxed out V4. A lot of QOTSA and Kyuss were V4bs with guitar through them.
Converge's discography almost surely has V-4 tracks sprinkled through out. I'm not sure exactly when Nate switched from V-4Bs to Orange heads.
I have an Ampeg V4 and a Sunn 412 (16 ohms). Should I not pair them since the V4 doesn't have the 16 ohm option or is there a way around it?
I think running mismatched impedance with a tube amp is a greater risk than with a solid state amp, so I would be wary of it. If you're really attached to the Sunn 412, you could probably pick up a cheap 2x12 and run both 16Ω each, just to balance the load.
Current Backline
This is my band's current setup. Here's the breakdown.
Guitar:
Ampeg V4
Sunn 2000S
Emperor 6x12
Emperor 3x15
Bass:
Matamp Green Lead 200
Sunn Concert Bass
Ampeg 610HLF
Ampeg SVT-215E
Submitted by neitherpath
So nice that you got it down to $450! Additionally, I'm running the JJ 7027s in mine (the dude I bought it off had recently replaced them) and you know how it sounds. I've actually been considering modding mine to take 6550's instead, but I need to look more into it.
I meannn it was selling for only $500, so I didn't drive it down too much considering that's still the lowest price I've seen on a V-4B in recent years. But it WAS the difference between maxing out my credit card, and still being able to treat my girlfriend to a fancy anniversary dinner.
If you changed out the power tubes, I wonder how drastic the difference in tone would be for a non-master volume amp like this, since most of the breakup would appear to come from driving the power section. Also curious how it would manifest itself considering that you rely somewhat heavily on that Boss ODB box.
mine has black switches...weird. you seem to know a lot about them though, which is good. mine has a set of ruby 7027s in the power section as well. isnt there another type of tube you can use instead of 7027s without having to mod the amp?
Yeah, the black switches are pre-'76 I'm pretty sure. You probably have metal toggle switches for power/standby/polarity as well, I'm guessing?
And yes - Ampeg was aware that 7027s would become obsolete, so they're pretty much interchangeable with matched pairs/a quad of 6L6-GCs, 7581s, 5881s, 6L6-WGBs, or KT66s. With some relatively minor tweaks, you should also be able to implement 6550s, KT88s, KT90s, 6CA7s and even EL34s as well.
Of course, nothing is ever simple, and there are some noteworthy caveats when it comes to biasing and current draw from the other types of tubes. This page has it outlined pretty thoroughly.
1974 Ampeg V-4