#watering_systems

[ramestoryworld]

Tools for home gardeners need to have two things: measurement to draw gardens to scale and visualization elements to inspire plant combinations. Several tools do either of those two things, but none do both well. As a result, I use a combination of digital tools to get what I need. I always prioritize ease of use and low ramp-up time. Here are my recommendations for landscape design software: This is one of my SmartDraw designs. It looks professional enough without having to pay for the expensive, complicated tools. Scale with SmartDraw This 2D drawing and diagramming program is not landscape specific and can be used for creating a wide range of visuals—from flowcharts to floor plans. But SmartDraw’s easy-to-learn landscape design offering allows DIY gardeners to input measurements of their garden and convert them to scale like a professional. The analog way to do this is with graph paper, but I find drawing by hand and measuring absolute misery. SmartDraw was the first tool I used as a designer after trying many others that did not provide what I needed. Now that I have moved on to more powerful tools, I still hunger for the simplicity of SmartDraw’s interface. It is also cost-effective at $9.95 a month. SmartDraw is very user-friendly landscape design software for gardeners and even allows you to work with templates rather than building from scratch. Photo: courtesy of SmartDraw To illustrate your plant or patio placements, use the various drag-and-drop symbols in SmartDraw, which also allows you to easily manipulate their sizes and colors. SmartDraw does not, however, offer the robust plant libraries found in other software. To some extent, you should have an idea of what garden elements you want and use the tool to see if they will fit. One of my iScape designs for a client. I made two—one with the peach heuchera and one with purple, so she could choose which design she liked. She chose this version. Visualize your landscape design with iScape iScape is a top-rated visualization tool in part because it is so easy to use. It is an app for iPhone or Android, so you can visualize a design right in your hand. The plant library is extensive and allows you to drag and drop images on top of your picture easily. The library also includes images for patios and water features as well as other accessories. There is an augmented reality feature that allows you to overlay images in real time, but I have never used it, because I found it overwhelming. Some tips for using it: If you want to get detailed images to visualize your future garden, use the app on a tablet with a stylus. Doing all that dragging and dropping with your finger on a phone can get very frustrating. Get to learn some of the key features before diving in. There is an immensely helpful layering tool, which lets you stack plants in front of each other to envision a tiered planting. It took me awhile to figure out how valuable that is. There are some downsides: First, the cost is $29 a month. If you do all your visualizing in one month then it is not so bad. But I wanted to use it for longer, and it got expensive over time. There is a free version of the app, which is good if you want a quick trial, but its database and features are extremely limited. Second, I long for a desktop version. Call me old-school, but sometimes I want to design with a mouse instead of the stylus, or worse yet, my thumbs. Simplyscapes is a potential option to use on desktop. Photo: Kaitlyn Hayes Notably, just as this was going to publish, I discovered a new program, Simplyscapes, that appears to be exactly what I’ve been looking for—an iScapes-like software for desktop. It seems worth a try for gardeners looking for landscape design software. Find more landscape design tips and advice:   Discuss this article or ask gardening questions with a regional gardening expert on the Gardening Answers forum. And for more Mid-Atlantic regional reports, click here. Caitlin Francke is a landscape designer, writer, and speaker who owns Dirt Diva Designs in Chatham, New Jersey. Photos, except where noted: Caitlin Francke Fine Gardening Recommended Products National Wildlife Federation®: Attracting Birds, Butterflies, and Other Backyard Wildlife, Expanded Second Edition (Creative Homeowner) 17 Projects & Step-by-Step Instructions to Give Back to Nature Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. From the National Wildlife Federation, the largest U.S. nonprofit conservation organization, with 6 million members and 51 state and territorial affiliated organizations. 17 step-by-step projects that everyone can do together make getting your family back to nature easy, educational, and fun. Over 200 color photos of backyard wildlife habitats and the wide variety of creatures they attract, plus step-by-step photos and illustrations for family projects. Learn wildlife-friendly practices for gardening, landscape design, supplemental feeders, birdbaths, nesting places, and more. Learn how to attract backyard pollinators, from bees and butterflies to beetles, bats, and hummingbirds Get your garden certified by the National Wildlife Federation's Garden for Wildlife(TM) program by following the included certification application checklist. Plant Covers Freeze Protection 10 ft x 30 ft Floating Row Cover 0.9oz/yd² Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Lightweight and Breathable MATERIAL Good for protecting Plant: the plant frost cover material is 0.74 oz/sq non-woven polypropylene fabric, which is lightweight, breathable, and durable. The plant blanket frost protection allows sunlight reach the plants, perfect for protecting plants from the damage of freeze or frost. Wide Application In your Garden Work. The plant row cover not only can work as a barrier against frost, but also can be a great tool for germination and good for rapid seedling growth. By using the fabric plant covers over your plant, you can start the plant earlier in the spring and extending the growing season of your plants. How to Use the Plant Covers: you can cover the plant covers for freeze over your the plants loosely directly and then secure the plant frost blanket with soil, stones or staples. You can also support the floating row covers with a hoop, make enough room for plants to breath and grow. You could also cut the plant covers into different sizes for different purposes. Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers "the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens. Source link

[tumibaba]

Chicken coops aren’t just night-time havens—they protect your flock from predators, cold, and rain. But when chickens refuse to go inside the coop, it leaves them exposed to danger, disrupts their routine, and often signals a problem like fear, discomfort, or poor coop conditions that needs to be addressed quickly. As a backyard chicken keeper, it’s worrying to see a few stubborn hens sleeping under a tree, young pullets unsure of where home is, or a traumatized flock avoiding the coop after a predator visit. Chickens naturally seek out safety as the sun sets, but that doesn’t always mean they’ll choose the coop—especially if something inside seems wrong or if they haven’t learned where “home” is. The good news? With a bit of training, consistency, and coop preparation, you can easily guide your flock into the habit of returning to their coop each evening. How to Get Chickens to Go into the Coop at Night – Ultimate Guide? Getting your chickens to head into the coop at night isn’t always as simple as it sounds. Sometimes they’ll roost in trees, huddle in corners, or avoid the coop altogether. With a little guidance and consistency, you can teach them where home truly is. 1. Make the Coop Comfortable and Inviting Your chickens need to feel that the coop is a safe and pleasant place to sleep. Cleanliness and Dry Bedding: Chickens have a strong sense of smell and will avoid a coop that’s dirty, wet, or filled with ammonia odor. Keep bedding clean and dry. Use pine shavings or straw, and spot-clean droppings regularly. Ventilation Without Drafts: Proper airflow is important to prevent respiratory issues, but strong drafts near roosting areas can make hens avoid the coop. Use screened vents up high to allow warm air to escape while keeping the lower area cozy. Cozy Roosting Bars: Chickens naturally prefer to roost off the ground. Provide roosts made of rounded 2x4s with the wide side up, which allows them to tuck their feet under on cold nights. Roosts should be placed higher than nesting boxes so chickens don’t sleep in the nests. Darkness and Quiet: Loud noises, sudden movements, or excessive light can make the coop feel unsafe. Keep the area calm and peaceful, especially at dusk. Also Read: Why Is My Chicken Limping and Laying Down? 2. Use Food to Create a Nighttime Routine Food is one of the easiest ways to get chickens into a habit—and that includes bedtime. Evening Treats Work Wonders: About 30–60 minutes before sunset, toss some scratch grains, mealworms, or black oil sunflower seeds into the coop. Chickens will begin associating the coop with a pleasant reward. Feed Inside Only: Keep the primary feeder and waterer inside the coop, not out in the run or yard. This way, chickens will return to the coop for their main food source and begin to settle in. Use a Specific Call or Sound: Make the same clucking noise, shake a container of treats, or use a bell when offering evening food. Chickens are smart enough to associate a sound with feeding time, helping you guide them indoors. 3. Train Young or New Chickens Chicks raised indoors or new hens added to a flock may not know that the coop is where they should sleep. Lock Them in for a Few Days: For new or young chickens, keep them inside the coop for 3–5 days, preferably with access to a small run if attached. This allows them to recognize the coop as their safe roosting space. Guide Them in Gently at Dusk: If they resist, wait until near-dark and gently herd or pick them up and place them on the roosting bar inside. It may take several nights, but eventually they’ll get into the habit. Be Calm and Patient: Avoid chasing or scaring them—it only builds anxiety. Instead, walk slowly and herd them calmly using a long stick or your arms outstretched to guide them gently in the right direction. 4. Use Light Strategically to Lure Them In Chickens follow the light, and you can use that instinct to your advantage. Keep the Coop Light On Just Before Dusk: If your coop is dark and the surrounding area is well-lit, chickens may not feel safe entering. Try adding a low-watt bulb or solar light in the coop, turning it on 30 minutes before sunset. Turn Off Outdoor Lights: Darken the run or yard while leaving the coop lightly lit, drawing them toward the safer, brighter space. Set a Timer or Use a Solar Light: If you can’t manually control the lighting daily, install a solar-powered coop light with a dusk timer to help set the routine consistently. 5. Identify and Fix Anything That’s Scaring Them Off If chickens used to go in and suddenly stop, investigate what may be causing them fear or discomfort. Predators or Scary Experiences: A close predator encounter—like a raccoon, fox, or owl—can leave chickens scared of the coop. Check for broken boards, scratch marks, or open gaps. Reinforce the coop, and consider using motion-activated lights or predator-proof latches. Rodents or Pests: Rats, snakes, or mites inside the coop can drive chickens away. Regularly inspect bedding, roosts, and corners for signs of droppings, burrows, or tiny bugs. Clean thoroughly and use poultry-safe mite treatments if needed. Overcrowding: Chickens need space to roost without being squished or bullied. Ideally, allow 3–4 square feet per bird inside the coop and 8–10 square feet per bird in the run. Also Read: How to Introduce New Chickens to a Flock? 6. Create a Consistent Night time Routine Chickens thrive on habit. Once they learn a routine, they tend to stick with it—so long as nothing disrupts their sense of safety. Put Them to Bed at the Same Time: Try to herd or close them in at the same time every evening. Chickens naturally begin winding down at dusk, so be ready before it gets completely dark. Use a Coop Door Closer: Consider installing an automatic coop door that opens and closes on a timer or light sensor. This helps maintain a consistent routine, especially when you’re away or busy. Observe and Adjust: Some chickens may take longer to learn than others. Watch your flock’s behavior, and adjust your approach if needed. Consistency and calmness go a long way. Check this: How to Clip Flight Feathers on Chickens? Conclusion Getting chickens to go into the coop at night isn’t about force—it’s about understanding their instincts, creating a safe and pleasant environment, and guiding them with gentle consistency. Whether you’re training young chicks, integrating new hens, or addressing a sudden refusal to roost, the keys are comfort, routine, and trust. With the right setup and approach, you’ll soon find your flock heading in all on their own at dusk—no chasing, coaxing, or frustration needed. Once the habit is built, it’s one less thing to worry about in your chicken-keeping routine. A calm, well-trained flock is a happy and safe one—and a secure coop is where that all begins. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[januishstory]

Tools for home gardeners need to have two things: measurement to draw gardens to scale and visualization elements to inspire plant combinations. Several tools do either of those two things, but none do both well. As a result, I use a combination of digital tools to get what I need. I always prioritize ease of use and low ramp-up time. Here are my recommendations for landscape design software: This is one of my SmartDraw designs. It looks professional enough without having to pay for the expensive, complicated tools. Scale with SmartDraw This 2D drawing and diagramming program is not landscape specific and can be used for creating a wide range of visuals—from flowcharts to floor plans. But SmartDraw’s easy-to-learn landscape design offering allows DIY gardeners to input measurements of their garden and convert them to scale like a professional. The analog way to do this is with graph paper, but I find drawing by hand and measuring absolute misery. SmartDraw was the first tool I used as a designer after trying many others that did not provide what I needed. Now that I have moved on to more powerful tools, I still hunger for the simplicity of SmartDraw’s interface. It is also cost-effective at $9.95 a month. SmartDraw is very user-friendly landscape design software for gardeners and even allows you to work with templates rather than building from scratch. Photo: courtesy of SmartDraw To illustrate your plant or patio placements, use the various drag-and-drop symbols in SmartDraw, which also allows you to easily manipulate their sizes and colors. SmartDraw does not, however, offer the robust plant libraries found in other software. To some extent, you should have an idea of what garden elements you want and use the tool to see if they will fit. One of my iScape designs for a client. I made two—one with the peach heuchera and one with purple, so she could choose which design she liked. She chose this version. Visualize your landscape design with iScape iScape is a top-rated visualization tool in part because it is so easy to use. It is an app for iPhone or Android, so you can visualize a design right in your hand. The plant library is extensive and allows you to drag and drop images on top of your picture easily. The library also includes images for patios and water features as well as other accessories. There is an augmented reality feature that allows you to overlay images in real time, but I have never used it, because I found it overwhelming. Some tips for using it: If you want to get detailed images to visualize your future garden, use the app on a tablet with a stylus. Doing all that dragging and dropping with your finger on a phone can get very frustrating. Get to learn some of the key features before diving in. There is an immensely helpful layering tool, which lets you stack plants in front of each other to envision a tiered planting. It took me awhile to figure out how valuable that is. There are some downsides: First, the cost is $29 a month. If you do all your visualizing in one month then it is not so bad. But I wanted to use it for longer, and it got expensive over time. There is a free version of the app, which is good if you want a quick trial, but its database and features are extremely limited. Second, I long for a desktop version. Call me old-school, but sometimes I want to design with a mouse instead of the stylus, or worse yet, my thumbs. Simplyscapes is a potential option to use on desktop. Photo: Kaitlyn Hayes Notably, just as this was going to publish, I discovered a new program, Simplyscapes, that appears to be exactly what I’ve been looking for—an iScapes-like software for desktop. It seems worth a try for gardeners looking for landscape design software. Find more landscape design tips and advice:   Discuss this article or ask gardening questions with a regional gardening expert on the Gardening Answers forum. And for more Mid-Atlantic regional reports, click here. Caitlin Francke is a landscape designer, writer, and speaker who owns Dirt Diva Designs in Chatham, New Jersey. Photos, except where noted: Caitlin Francke Fine Gardening Recommended Products National Wildlife Federation®: Attracting Birds, Butterflies, and Other Backyard Wildlife, Expanded Second Edition (Creative Homeowner) 17 Projects & Step-by-Step Instructions to Give Back to Nature Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. From the National Wildlife Federation, the largest U.S. nonprofit conservation organization, with 6 million members and 51 state and territorial affiliated organizations. 17 step-by-step projects that everyone can do together make getting your family back to nature easy, educational, and fun. Over 200 color photos of backyard wildlife habitats and the wide variety of creatures they attract, plus step-by-step photos and illustrations for family projects. Learn wildlife-friendly practices for gardening, landscape design, supplemental feeders, birdbaths, nesting places, and more. Learn how to attract backyard pollinators, from bees and butterflies to beetles, bats, and hummingbirds Get your garden certified by the National Wildlife Federation's Garden for Wildlife(TM) program by following the included certification application checklist. Plant Covers Freeze Protection 10 ft x 30 ft Floating Row Cover 0.9oz/yd² Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Lightweight and Breathable MATERIAL Good for protecting Plant: the plant frost cover material is 0.74 oz/sq non-woven polypropylene fabric, which is lightweight, breathable, and durable. The plant blanket frost protection allows sunlight reach the plants, perfect for protecting plants from the damage of freeze or frost. Wide Application In your Garden Work. The plant row cover not only can work as a barrier against frost, but also can be a great tool for germination and good for rapid seedling growth. By using the fabric plant covers over your plant, you can start the plant earlier in the spring and extending the growing season of your plants. How to Use the Plant Covers: you can cover the plant covers for freeze over your the plants loosely directly and then secure the plant frost blanket with soil, stones or staples. You can also support the floating row covers with a hoop, make enough room for plants to breath and grow. You could also cut the plant covers into different sizes for different purposes. Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers "the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens. Source link

[iammeandmy]

Pothos is easy to grow and requires low-maintenance, which makes it perfect choice for gardening beginners. You just need a small cutting to propagate pothos in water or soil to expand your green collection. They are easy to grow, but this doesn’t mean that they are not prone to growing problems. Common pothos problems include yellowing of leaves, brown spots, curling, brown tips, stunted plant growth and spotted leaves. These issues are often caused by overwatering, poor lighting, or low humidity levels. In this write-up, you’ll learn how to fix these growing issues. 9 Common Pothos Growing Problems and How to Fix them You can prevent most pothos problems before they even start, if you take proper care. Simple things like checking soil moisture, placing the plant in bright indirect light, and trimming occasionally can make a big difference. As a plant parent allot a bit of routine attention to your pothos, it will stay lush, green, and problem-free. 1. Yellowing Leaves Yellowing of lower or older leaves are common and nothing to worry. But, when you notice new leaves are turning yellow, then it might be a sign of plant stress. One of the main causes of yellowing leaves is overwatering. Pothos plants don’t like to sit in soggy soil, and too much moisture can lead to root rot, which then causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. If the yellowing starts from the lower leaves and the soil feels consistently wet, overwatering is likely the culprit. On the flip side, underwatering can also cause leaves to yellow, though this is typically accompanied by dry, crispy edges. It’s all about finding the right balance—wait until the top inch or two of the soil is dry before watering again. Apart from watering issues, insufficient sunlight and nutritional deficiency can cause yellowing of pothos. To fix the issue, start by checking your watering habits and adjust them accordingly. Ensure the plant is in a well-lit spot and consider feeding it if it hasn’t been fertilized in months. Prune off the yellow leaves to redirect energy to new growth—once a leaf turns yellow, it won’t turn green again. 2. Brown Leaf Tips If the tips of your pothos leaves are turning brown and dry, it’s usually a subtle sign that something is wrong. While it may not be as alarming as yellowing or spotting, it’s still a useful clue that your plant needs some attention. The most common cause of brown leaf tips is low humidity. Pothos are native to tropical environments where the air is naturally moist. In dry indoor conditions—especially during winter or in air-conditioned rooms—the lack of humidity can cause the tips of the leaves to dry out and turn brown. Inconsistent watering and excessive fertilization can also result in brown tips. Feeding your pothos too frequently or with a strong fertilizer can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, which then damages the roots and shows up as crispy brown leaf tips. To fix the issue, start by trimming off the browned tips with clean scissors to keep the plant looking tidy. Increase humidity by misting the leaves, using a humidifier, or placing a tray of water near the plant. Make sure you’re watering consistently, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. If you’ve been fertilizing often, flush the soil with clean water to remove excess salts and reduce feeding frequency. Though brown tips won’t return to green, improving conditions will help prevent the problem from getting worse and keep new growth healthy and vibrant. 3. Curling Leaves When the lush, flat leaves of your pothos start to curl inward or downward, it’s a sign that the plant is stressed and trying to protect itself. Leaf curl isn’t a disease on its own, but rather a symptom of environmental stress—most commonly related to watering or temperature. The leading cause of curling leaves is underwatering. When pothos don’t get enough water, their leaves curl to conserve moisture. This is especially common if the soil is bone-dry or if you’ve missed a few watering sessions. The plant will also appear droopy, and the leaves may feel thin or papery to the touch. On the other hand, overwatering can also cause curling, though it’s less common. In this case, the soil stays too wet, damaging the roots and limiting their ability to absorb water, which causes the same moisture stress symptoms. Temperature stress is another major factor. Pothos prefer warm environments and can react poorly to cold drafts, sudden temperature drops, or being placed near AC vents. The leaves may curl and even develop discoloration if the temperature dips too low. To fix curling leaves, first check the soil moisture. If it’s dry, give your plant a thorough watering and let the excess drain out. If the soil is too soggy, let it dry before watering again and consider repotting in better-draining soil. Also, move your plant away from cold windows, vents, or direct blasts of hot or cold air. Once the plant recovers, new leaves will unfurl normally, and you’ll notice a return to that signature pothos fullness. 4. Black or Brown Spots Black or dark brown spots on pothos leaves often point to fungal or bacterial infections, usually caused by overly moist conditions or poor air circulation. This is especially common when leaves stay wet for too long or when the plant is overcrowded with little airflow between leaves. Overwatering and soggy soil can also invite fungal diseases that show up as dark, spreading patches. In some cases, pests like thrips or spider mites may damage the leaf tissue and cause spotting as well. To treat the issue, prune off any affected leaves and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Improve airflow around the plant and avoid misting directly onto leaves if fungal issues are present. If the problem persists, use a gentle fungicide or neem oil spray. 5. Wilting or Drooping Wilting or drooping pothos leaves can look dramatic—but it’s usually a quick fix. The most common cause is underwatering, especially if the soil feels dry and the leaves appear limp or curled. Once watered, the plant usually perks up within hours. However, overwatering can cause the exact same droopy appearance. In that case, the roots may be damaged and unable to take up water, even though the soil feels wet. Always check the soil before watering. If it’s dry 1–2 inches down, give your pothos a good drink. If it’s wet and the plant is still drooping, consider repotting to assess root health and improve drainage. 6. Stunted Growth If your pothos isn’t growing as fast as it should, or seems to have paused altogether, it may be suffering from nutrient deficiency, poor lighting, or root-bound conditions. Lack of light is the most common cause—pothos needs bright, indirect light to grow vigorously. If it’s in a dim room, growth can slow to a crawl. Similarly, not feeding the plant for a long time can deplete nutrients, especially nitrogen, which is vital for leafy growth. Another possible reason is that your plant has outgrown its pot. If roots are circling the base or coming out of the drainage holes, it’s time to repot. Move your plant to a brighter spot, feed it with a balanced fertilizer, and check the roots to see if it needs more space. 7. Leggy Vines Leggy pothos vines—with long gaps between leaves—are a clear sign that the plant is stretching for light. In low-light conditions, pothos vines grow longer in search of better light, but produce fewer and smaller leaves along the way. While leggy vines won’t hurt the plant, they do make it look sparse and less full. To correct the issue, move your pothos to a brighter location with indirect sunlight. You can also trim back the long vines to encourage bushier new growth. Use the cuttings to propagate new plants or fill in the base of the original pot. 8. Root Rot Root rot is one of the most serious problems a pothos can face—and it’s almost always caused by overwatering or poor drainage. If the soil stays soggy for too long, the roots begin to rot, turning mushy and black. Above ground, the plant may wilt, yellow, or shed leaves quickly. To check for root rot, gently remove the plant from its pot and examine the roots. Healthy roots are white or tan and firm, while rotten roots are dark, smelly, and soft. Trim away any affected roots, repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil, and reduce watering frequency. Going forward, always wait until the top inch or two of soil is dry before watering again. 9. Spotted or Patchy Leaves Spotted or patchy leaves—especially those with yellow or white blotches—are often a result of pest damage or nutrient imbalance. Spider mites, mealybugs, or thrips can suck sap from the leaves, leaving behind tiny spots or pale patches. Sometimes, inconsistent feeding or poor soil quality leads to patchy color, especially if the plant lacks micronutrients like magnesium or iron. Inspect your plant carefully for signs of pests (look on the undersides of leaves). Wipe them off with insecticidal soap or neem oil. If no pests are present, consider feeding the plant with a complete houseplant fertilizer to correct any deficiencies. Conclusion If you’re a beginner, then don’t assume pothos care is complicated. Most of the issues—like yellowing leaves or drooping vines—are just signs that your plant needs a small adjustment. And once you understand what it’s asking for, keeping it happy becomes second nature. Think of these problems as part of the learning process. With the right care and a little consistency, your pothos will bounce back stronger and continue to thrive as one of the easiest, most rewarding houseplants you can grow. Khaja Moinuddin, a computer science graduate, finds joy in gardening and homesteading. Join him on this blog as he shares his experiences in homesteading, gardening, and composting Source link

[tameblog]

Floating candles are a lovely way to add a little fire to a floral centerpiece, and they are surprisingly easy to make using metal tart molds. Made with sweet-smelling beeswax, these floral-shaped DIY floating candles will be the buzz of the party. Flowers are the ultimate pick-me-up. Whether you are giving a bouquet to a loved one, arranging them to brighten up your home, or planting them in the garden to attract bees and butterflies, flowers add life, colour, and joy to any space. Next time you are feeling a bit blue, head out and smell the roses. It will certainly help to improve the day! That’s why I love to bring them inside or use them to decorate whenever I get the chance. Clipping a few blooms here and there from my garden brings me so much joy! I use these DIY floating candles and fresh flowers to make gorgeous centerpieces for the home. You can put them in practically any vase that has a wide enough mouth to fit the candle in. Beyond a centerpiece, you can also put them in a pool, a garden water feature, and in large bowls to decorate inside or out. Before we learn how to make floating candles, let’s talk about how to properly use them! Fresh flowers are submerged in water under the candles. How Do Floating Candles Work? Every candle can’t be a floating candle. The secret is to use candles with oversized tops and small bottoms to keep stable. The candles displace more water weight than the weight of the candle, ensuring that they won’t tip or accidentally invert themselves. The trick to making floating candles is finding the right kind of mold. And they aren’t as tricky to find as you may think! I actually use mini tart molds that can be found online or in the kitchen section at a home goods store. Because of their shape, they burn relatively quickly. Consider them more like tea lights. Keep an eye on them throughout the night and refresh them as needed. Any wax that doesn’t burn away should keep on floating, so feel free to scoop it back up and save for future candles. You can also add any colouring or essential oils that you like. Citronella oil may even help to keep the mosquitoes away during an evening outdoors! However, avoid using these essential oils and colour for pools or garden features as the oils can leak into the water. They’re best kept in the vase displays. These candles burn as quickly as tea lights. Floating Water Candle Safety As with any candle, you do want to practice regular fire safety with these candles and never leave them unattended or under anything that could catch fire. Keep items away from the sides of the water so they don’t accidentally burn anything. That being said, there are minimal safety risks with these DIY floating candles. The water itself makes them safer than the average candle. Once they burn down, they extinguish themselves. You also don’t have to worry about the flowers inside the vase. They will be too waterlogged to catch fire and should also sit completely underwater the whole time. The flowers within the vase won’t catch fire as they’ll be so wet. How to Make Floating Candles Makes six floating water candles Materials: Make sure your mold has a small base and a wide top. Equipment: Make it! Melt the beeswax in a double boiler. Keep a close watch on it so that it can be poured as soon as it’s completely liquid. Wipe out the tart molds to be sure the insides are quite clean. Place the tart molds on a baking sheet lined with paper to protect the countertops from spills. Use a baking sheet and parchment paper to keep the wax off the counters. Spray your molds with mold release. Carefully pour the wax into the tart molds, making sure that they stay level and wax doesn’t pour over the edges. Use a pour spout to help evenly pour the wax into the molds. As the wax starts to cool and turn opaque around the edges, place a wick into the center of each one. The wicks are short and should easily stay in place. You can poke the wick in. Let the tarts cool and cure for 24 hours undisturbed, then remove them from the mold. If you use the mold release, the candles should easily pop out. Note: when making candles in a container that you want to remove them from, choose a wax formulated for votives or pillar candles, or use a candle release additive or spray to allow the wax to pop out of the mold more easily. In the event that the wax doesn’t release, pop the mold in the freezer for ten minutes, then try again. Keep freezing at ten-minute intervals until the candle can be removed. Just be sure not to leave the candle in the freezer for an extended period of time, or it may crack. Use both foliage and flowers in your vase display. Create a Floating Flower Candle Display To create a lavish display with these floating flower candles, fill a wide vase with freshly cut flowers and fill it with water to cover the blooms completely. Go out to the garden and pick anything that looks pretty to you. My selection included chive flowers and sage, which are a bit unusual to add to arrangements, but they look really pretty. Submerge the flowers in water in a large glass vase. Then float a few candles on the surface and light them up! Be careful when dropping the candles into the water, and make sure you don’t get the wicks wet. Most wicks are 100% cotton, and this can affect the burn time. You want them glowing as long as possible. You can use one of these nifty glass floating candle holders to keep the candles separate from the flowers in the vase, if you prefer. That’s it! This arrangement makes a beautiful summer table centerpiece or hostess gift. The flowers will continue to look great for a few days, submerged in water. Floating glass candle holders can be helpful. Other Candle Projects to Try DIY Floating Candles These simple diy floating candles will add a touch of whimsey to centerpieces, pools, baths, or anywhere else you'd like to enjoy them. In the double boiler, melt the beeswax until totally melted.Meanwhile, place clean tart molds on a baking sheet. Spray with mold release.Pour the wax carefully into the molds. Don't allow the wax to go over the edges of the molds.Then, allow the candles to cool a bit. Once they begin to turn opaque, add a wick to the center of each.Let the diy floating candles dry for 24 hours. Arrange in the vase with submerged flowers and enjoy! A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants. Source link

[angusstory]

Part of the basics of building great soil is knowing whether you have alkaline or acidic soil and treating it accordingly. Learn how to do a pH soil test at home to give yourself a general idea of the pH of your soil with just a few basic supplies. When you first move into a new home or are curious about why your plants aren’t doing as well as they should, the first thing you can check is the soil. It’s no secret that soil is the most important part of the garden. Not only does it either create healthy plants or lead to their demise, but it is also full of information that can help us grow a better garden. Some plants take root effortlessly, while others need specific conditions. Basic home tests can give you an indicator of what you’re working with and if there is any need for improvement. Take a dive into why lies beneath the feet to see if your soil falls too far towards alkaline or acidic. This post will cover… Compost can help improve soil by providing organic matter. What is Soil pH? In chemistry, pH (which stands for potential hydrogen) measures how acidic or alkaline something is. In this case, we’re looking at soil. It is based on a scale from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 considered neutral. Values of 0 to 7 indicate your soil is acidic, while 7 to 14 indicates it is alkaline. It’s pretty rare to see super high or low values in soil. Normally, soil pH is between 4.5 to 9. Why Soil pH is Important To allow nutrients to be accessed by a plant, they need to be able to dissolve in water. Each of these nutrient ions has a preferred pH that they like in order for the plant to use them. If the soil is outside of the pH range, then your plants won’t be able to access the nutrients. With a few exceptions, most plants will do best in neutral soil. Anything ranging from 6.5 to 7 would be considered neutral. However, some plants thrive in acidity. Blueberry plants and rhododendrons prefer a pH from 4.5 to 5.5. Meanwhile, asparagus and sweet peas like a more alkaline soil slightly above 7. Knowing the acidity of your soil ensures you have the right plants for the area. If you do notice that your soil is too acidic, soil amendments will help bring your soil into more neutral territory. But first, you’ll need to know what you’re starting with. That’s why learning how to test soil pH is so crucial for the vitality of your garden. A soil pH test can give you a quick indication if your soil is too acidic or alkaline. How to Do a Soil pH Test at Home Learning how to test soil pH at home is easy and effective. You likely have many of these supplies at home already! Vinegar is acidic and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is alkaline. When mixed together, they fizz. With two samples of soil from the same place in your garden, adding these ingredients will help to determine your soil’s pH type. Materials: Distilled Water – It is important to use distilled water because it has a neutral pH. You could try to use regular water, but it could affect the outcome of the test. White vinegar (an acid) Baking soda (a base or alkaline) A bowl and spoon Let’s Test Soil! Scoop up a small amount of soil from an area in your garden. Add 1 tbsp of soil to a small bowl and mix it with 1 tbsp of distilled water. You’ll want to add enough to make a loose mud. Pour a little bit of vinegar into the bowl. If it fizzes up, the soil is alkaline. As you can see, there was no fizz in my soil pH test, which would suggest that my soil is acidic. No fizzing with the vinegar, so my soil is not alkaline. To double-check the results, grab another tablespoon of soil from the same spot in your garden. Then, wet it with the water and mix again. Next, sprinkle 1 tbsp of baking soda in it and mix. If it fizzes, the soil is acidic. My soil fizzes with the baking soda, indicating that my soil is acidic. On the second soil pH test, my soil did fizz up, which means the soil is acidic. If it does not fizz for either test, you have neutral soil. You certainly do not have to perform both tests to determine the pH of your soil. Just one will suffice, but you can try both to confirm the results if you like. To be honest, I already knew that my soil is acidic, but in the name of garden science, I had to confirm! Now that you are armed with this basic knowledge about your soil, you can help your plants thrive. Plus, you can also use it to do cool things like change the colour of your hydrangea! Isn’t gardening science fun? Pink hydrangeas are a result of alkaline soil, while blue hydrangeas are a result of acidic soil. Frequently Asked Questions About Soil pH Tests What are the signs of acidic soil? Acidic soil occurs when the pH of soil falls below 7. Symptoms of acidic soil can include stunted growth, brown spots or discolouration, withered leaves, blossom end rot, leaf necrosis (when the tissue of the leaf begins to decompose), and brown leaf tips. Is clay soil acidic or alkaline? Clay soil tends to be naturally alkaline, ranging from 8 to 10 on the pH scale. Combined with poor drainage, this makes it difficult for many plants to grow. After performing a soil pH test to confirm your soil conditions, add soil amendments to add more acidity and drainage to clay soil. What happens when the pH is too high for plants? When the pH of soil is high, it’s too alkaline. High pH means that certain nutrients become less soluble and, therefore, less available to plants. This results in nutrient deficiencies such as calcium, iron, copper, and phosphorus.Alkaline soil can have similar symptoms to acidic soil, such as brown tips, wilted leaves, leaf necrosis, blossom end rot, and irregular colouring or spotting. Do soil pH meters work? Soil pH meters help test for soil and moisture levels. They’re rather simple and provide relatively accurate measurements. However, an at-home test will work just as well and won’t cost you a thing. For highly accurate results, it’s best to have your soil tested professionally at a lab. Good luck with your at-home test! Leave any of your pH-related gardening questions below. More Ways to Improve Soil Do a DIY Soil pH Test at Home This simple soil pH test only requires a few simple supplies – most of which you probably have right at home! In minutes, you can find out whether your soil is alkaline or acidic. Scoop up a small amount of soil from your garden.Then, add enough distilled water to the soil to make it into a loose mud.Pour a bit of vinegar into the bowl. If it fizzes, your soil is alkaline!Double-check your results by emptying the bowl and starting once more. Again, scoop some soil into the bowl.Add the water to create a loose mud.Sprinkle baking soda into the mixture. If it fizzes, your soil is acidic! Debbie Wolfe is a mom of two rambunctious boys, wife, and work-at-home mom from Georgia. In her free time (when there is such a thing), she is in the garden or hidden away reading the latest post-apocalyptic sci-fi drama! As interests, Debbie is an obsessive crafter, home chef, and gardener. She is a freelance writer, blogger, and is a co-author and photographer behind the garden blog, The Prudent Garden; a collection of tips, crafts, and articles that highlight home gardening. Source link

[alexha2210]

Creating a sense of place has been a recurring garden theme for years now, and it lends authenticity to any setting, especially here in the Southwest. For me, nothing does this better than the use of succulents, both locally native ones and those that are well-adapted from far-off places. This may be one of the few unifying garden themes that rightfully extends across our Southwest region, from the California coast to South Texas. Indeed, succulents seem to be everywhere these days! Their water-thrifty nature is a strong selling point in a region with erratic precipitation, recurring droughts, and frequent hot temperatures. Don’t have time to water today? They’ll still be there tomorrow. Dealing with gritty poor soil? Who cares! Going on vacation? No worries . . . they are the ultimate in durable plants.If that is not enough to sell you, their spectacular diversity of form and color adds a sculptural element like no other category of plant, whether planted en masse in the ground or used in containers as focal points in cooler regions. Choosing your favorites is going to be your biggest challenge. Knowing your conditions is the first consideration, as some tolerate hot sun better than others, and many do best in bright shade. There is endless info online to help you decide. Listing my own favorites could easily surpass the one hundred mark, so I’ll narrow it way down to just a handful of categories. All the following species will need: Excellent drainage Dry intervals between watering Full to dappled sun, depending on the extremes of your own conditions. Most are hardy into Zone 8 or 9, but frost tolerance varies, so do some research for your area. Tree houseleek Aeonium spp. and cvs. Zones: 9–11 Size: Up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar Aeoniums are among the largest rosette-leaved plants in the sedum family, originating mainly in North Africa and the Canary Islands. A. arboreum and other species are attractive enough on their own, but selected variations and hybrids now span a wide range of colors and sizes. A few can have robust dinner plate–sized rosettes from minty green to nearly black-wine in color. Clustered evenly on sturdy stems up to 3 feet tall, they complement any other succulents with their perfect symmetry and flowerlike form. Although they’re excellent in sun on the West Coast, you’ll need to provide dappled light in desert locations like Tucson, Arizona. Some tolerate light frost, but others will not, so do your research and be prepared to protect them in colder areas. New colorful hybrids labeled as × Semponium, were created by crossing Aeonium with the tough genus Sempervivum. These new options have added to the color/size selection but exhibit little if any of their hardy Sempervivum heritage. ‘Arizonia Star’ Weber agave Agave weberi ‘Arizona Star’ Zones: 8b–11 Size: Up to 5 feet tall and 7 feet wide Agaves come in all sizes, from 3-inch minis to 8-foot giants. Some are formidably armed with teeth and spiny tips, and others are soft-leaved and gardener-friendly. A favorite of mine is ‘Arizona Star’ Weber agave. Allow adequate space when planting as it can reach 3 to 6 feet across in surprisingly short order. The gold-edged smooth leaves are luminous when backlighted, allowing the plant to stand out as an elegant focal point whether in the ground or elevated in a container. Santa Rita prickly pear Opuntia santa-rita Zones: 7–11 Size: 4 feet tall and 5 feet wide Prickly pears are structural icons of the Southwest, and I have dozens in my gardens, from the giant (and less spiny) O. ficus-indica down to some truly miniature forms. But the one that gets my attention over and over in all seasons is the Santa Rita prickly pear. Native primarily to southern Arizona, it is widely planted due to its robust form and richly colored pads in shades of blue-green to violet-purple. The best color develops when grown in dry conditions and during winter chill. This comes close to a color “not found in nature,” as they say, yet here it is! Handle with care though. It is well armed with short bristles called glochids that detach easily and can lodge in skin, gloves, and fabric. Plant this in the background or a less-frequented area to be on the safe side. Hedgehog cacti Echinopsis spp. and cvs. Zones: 8b–11 Size: Up to 3 feet tall and wide, depending on the cultivar These small to medium cacti range from clustering barrel forms to midsize columns. They are easy to grow in morning sun or partial shade in desert areas and are also suited to well-drained containers in wetter climates. They make a sculptural focal point or accent all year, quietly increasing in size. After a dry winter rest, their fuzzy buds appear, slowly enlarging until some warm day in April when hand-sized blooms suddenly burst open in unison for a glorious one-day engagement. Occasional blooms may appear throughout the growing season, but most will last just one day, perhaps two. Watch the buds closely and plan a last-minute gathering to share the occasion with friends. Fencepost cactus Pachycereus marginatus Zones: 9–11 Size: 12 feet tall and 3 feet wide (over time) The famed fencepost cactus hails from Mexico and needs little introduction. I include this as a favorite because it is one of the larger succulents that contributes height and structural elegance with minimal spikiness. Smooth vertical lines are uninterrupted by stops and starts like some columnar cacti, and its spines are tiny and do not detach easily, clustered only along the symmetrical ribs, which makes for easier handling when necessary. A better focal point or backdrop plant is hard to find, and slowly clustering specimens just keep getting better with time. Echeveria Echeveria spp. and cvs. Zones: 9–11 Size: Up to 12 inches tall and wide The pastel rosettes of echeveria are the perfect complement to all the above plants, coming in shades of waxy aqua-blue to rosy purple, wine red, and mojito green. In hot climates they may prefer a bit of light shade but in coastal areas can tolerate full sun. Depending on your conditions, they may appreciate a bit more moisture than other succulents, but good drainage is still essential, and they will tolerate dry periods without complaint. In recent years many hybrids have been created with closely related genera. The diversity is endless, so it’s best to see them in person and buy the ones you like. These make colorful container combinations and enliven rock gardens in mild climates—there are few limits to creative uses of these stunning plants.   Discuss this and any other gardening topic in our Southwest gardening forum.Find more information on Southwest gardening here. Dan Johnson lives and gardens in Denver, Colorado, and in Tucson, Arizona. He is an associate director of horticulture for the Denver Botanic Gardens. Photos: Dan Johnson Fine Gardening Recommended Products Bee Watering Station with Vivid Flower Design Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Thoughtful Combo: You will receive a bee feeder and 30 glass marbles. This thoughtful combo can provide clean water for the bees, you just need to put the marbles into the bee watering station, add water (note: the water level should not exceed the height of the marbles) and hang them in the right place. The round, colored marbles can provide a place for the bees to stand and prevent them from falling into the water, effectively keeping the bees safe. Fine Material: This exquisite bee bath is made of high quality iron material, smooth surface, rust and weather resistant, not easy to fade, sturdy and reliable. Bee cups for garden can well meet the drinking water needs of lovely bees, and it can also provide food for bees, such as sugar water, nectar, etc., attracting more bees to your outdoor area and making your garden full of vitality. Perfect Size: The butterfly watering station has an overall height of 13.4 inches, a bowl diameter of 9.4 inches, and a weight of 0.44 pounds. The bee cup serves the needs of the bees well without plunging them into dangerously deep water or taking up unnecessary space in your garden, and this compact and efficient design makes it a practical addition to any outdoor space. Elegant Design: Our bee watering cups are designed in unique flower shapes with vibrant and realistic colours to attract lovely bees to your garden and patio, bee feeders for outside are not only functional but can also be used as a landscaping element, their vibrant floral patterns enhance the beauty of your garden. Multicolored Decoration: Colorful bee water stations look like flowers in a garden, flower bed or pot and attract bees and butterflies. They can drink or bathe in bee feeders, which are highly decorative and practical. The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. A crevice garden replicates the environmental conditions of mountain tops, deserts, coastlines, and other exposed or rocky places on earth. These striking garden features provide perfect conditions for the plants native to these far-off places, bringing the cultivation of these precious gems within everybody’s reach. Lee Valley Garden Obelisks Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Sturdy yet lightweight, these obelisks provide ample support for climbing plants while being easy to install and move. The medium obelisk stands 68 1/2" high overall with a diameter of about 9 1/2", compact enough for smaller containers indoors or out. The large size stands 86 1/2" high with a diameter of 15 3/4", ideal for larger outdoor spaces and containers. Source link

[angusstory]

Congratulations! You had a bumper crop of sage this year! Or maybe you found a baker’s dozen of potted basil plants on clearance at your grocery store. Whatever the reason, you have more herbs than you’re able to use fresh and you need to figure out a way to make them last. Drying herbs to preserve them is a practice that has been around for as long as cultivation has been a part of human civilization. The concept of drying is extremely simple. You just want to expose as much of the surface area of the plant to the air as you can so the moisture evaporates – the quicker, the better. But as with many things that are conceptually simple, the execution requires a little more nuance. To help you save those herbs, we’re going to discuss the many methods of dehydrating. Here’s what to expect, coming right up: Almost any herb can be dried, so long as you understand the various methods available and when to use them. The flavor of the plants comes from the oils stored inside their cells. Dehydrating concentrates these oils while removing the moisture that can cause herbs to spoil. Get your screens, hangers, or dehydrators ready. Those herbs aren’t going to dry themselves! Methods of Drying There are many ways to dry herbs. Some work faster than others, and some are better for larger or thicker plants, but all of them will work if you’re patient. Air drying has the distinct advantage of being free. However, it takes much more time and it usually takes up more space than other methods. You can do this by hanging harvested plants or laying them out. Bonus points if you can lay them out on a screen. Dehydrators usually take up less room and they’re much, much faster than air drying. They’re also more expensive than the air method and unless you have a monster-sized dehydrator, you can only process small batches at a time. The biggest advantage to this option is that you can dry the leaves quickly but at a controlled, low temperature, retaining the flavor better than other methods as a result. You can also often use your oven, though this method isn’t always effective for those that must be dried on low heat. Most ovens can’t go below about 175°F or so, and most herbs should ideally be dehydrated at around 90 to 110°F. Some microwaves are also good for drying herbs, depending on the available wattage. How to Harvest Herbs for Drying Harvesting starts the day before you intend to do the work. Water the soil well and then spray the plants with water to remove any debris, pollen, sprays you’ve applied, or dirt. While every herb is different, most should be harvested in the morning while the plants are full of moisture, but after the dew has evaporated. Whenever possible, harvest entire stems rather than individual leaves. Most are best harvested before or just as they start to flower. Of course, this doesn’t apply to plants that you want to dry to harvest the seeds. With herbs, we’re generally talking specifically about the edible leaves, as opposed to the seeds, bark, or roots, which would classically be described as spices. The younger leaves toward the end of the stems usually have the most flavor, with the highest concentration of oils. You can leave behind a six-inch length of stem when you harvest, and most will regenerate new growth. Use a sharp pair of scissors to snip the parts you intend to use. Pulling or twisting bruises the plant and causes it to deteriorate more quickly. Immediately after harvesting, place what you’ve picked in a cool, sheltered spot until you can process it for drying. Even better, place the stems in a glass of water as you would a bouquet. Don’t leave harvested stems in direct sunlight. Once you arrive indoors, or wherever you intend to prep your harvest, trim off and discard any damaged leaves. Air Drying When air drying, the ideal spot is indoors in a warm, sheltered space with good air circulation. You can also do this outdoors, but try to find an area that’s well protected from sun, insects, and wind. Hanging works best for plants with woody or firm stems. Think rosemary, sage, lemon verbena, and the like. For flimsier, more tender types like basil and parsley, lay the harvest out on a screen. To bundle herbs for hanging, loosely secure a handful of stems towards the lower, cut end with a rubber band or string. You don’t want to create a bundle that is too large or you run the risk of mold forming. Then, hang the bundles singly with a few inches between each one. I like to suspend a few bundles on a hanger in my attic, basement, or covered patio, depending on the time of year. But you can use anything really, from a clothesline to nails over a doorway. Be aware that as the stems dry, they shrink, which means some may fall out of the bundle. Experienced air dryers often use rubber bands to avoid this problem, because the bands usually tighten up as the bundle dries. If you want to collect the seeds from whatever plant you’ve harvested, fasten paper bags over the heads to collect the seeds as they fall. To dry flat, use a screen, mesh, or wire to lay the herbs in a single layer. If you don’t have any of those available, use a baking sheet with a few layers of newspaper or paper towels on top. Try to keep the herbs from touching, if possible. You can leave the leaves on the stems if you want, but things will go faster if you strip the leaves from the stem if you go with this option. Whether you hang them or lay them flat, location is important. It should be as dark as possible, with good air circulation and fairly warm temperatures around 70°F. Avoid the bathroom, laundry room, areas near the sink or dishwasher, or any other place that has high moisture. Don’t hang them in front of a window, even though that looks awfully pretty. Hanging can take a week or more, while laying flat takes a bit longer. Using a Dehydrator A dehydrator is ideal for plants that have a high moisture content. Basil, mint, tarragon, sage, thyme, and parsley are common ones to preserve this way. These plants need to dry quickly or they risk developing mold. Use leaves of a similar size and place them in a single layer. The leaves shouldn’t be touching. Set your dehydrator to 90 to 110°F and run it for as long as necessary to remove all of the moisture from the leaves so they’re dry and crumbly. This should take anywhere from one to three hours. If you notice that it seems to be taking a long time to dry the leaves, turn the dehydrator up a few degrees. Feel free to flip or shift the leaves or trays around, for even heating. If you live in an area with high humidity, you can dry all the way up to 125°F, but remember that lower temperatures are always better. Don’t have a dehydrator? No problem! Check out this roundup of some of the best models on our sister site, Foodal. Drying in the Oven Oven drying isn’t ideal. Most ovens can’t hold a low enough temperature to dehydrate the plant matter rather than cooking it, and that means you lose nutrients and flavor. Remember how we talked about the flavor of an herb coming from the concentrated oils that it contains? If you use too high of a temperature, you lose some of those oils – and the flavor as well. To dry, turn your oven on as low as it can go, and place the leaves in a single layer on a baking sheet. If your oven doesn’t go as low as 125°F, leave the door open a bit to reduce the heat level inside. This is a terrible waste of energy, but it works in a pinch if you need to dry some herbs quickly. It helps to flip them and turn the trays every 20 minutes or so. Depending on the temperature and the amount of plant matter in the oven, it will take an hour or two to completely dry the leaves. As with the other methods on this list, you’ll know the plants are done when you can crumble the leaves between your fingers. Don’t let them bake for too long or the leaves will burn. Using the Microwave You might curse your low-wattage (1000 or below) microwave when you’re trying to heat up a big pot of soup, but that low power is a big plus when it comes to drying herbs. Place a single layer of leaves between two paper towels. Set the microwave to defrost or the lowest heat setting and run it for two to three minutes, depending on the thickness of the leaves. Flip the paper towels and cook for another few minutes. Continue doing this until the leaves are dry and crumbly. Do not leave the microwave unattended during this process. The paper towels can catch on fire, particularly if you don’t have enough leaves in the microwave. Also, never use recycled paper towels because they can contain metal, and we all know how well metal and microwaves get along. Storage Regardless of which method you choose, you can be sure the leaves are dry when they crumble easily between your fingers. This is important, because you don’t want them to get moldy in storage. Fully dried leaves should be stored in airtight containers in a cool, dark place. Don’t expose them to light or high heat. If you’ve been processing your harvest in a warm kitchen, leave the lids off when you move them to the cooler storage area. Once the jars have cooled, put the lids in place. This process helps to avoid condensation inside the jars. Don’t forget to label the jars. You’d be surprised how much dry herbs can look alike and it can be hard to tell the difference even if you smell them. Most herbs can be stored for up to a year. When using, keep in mind that dried herbs are typically twice as strong (or more!) than fresh ones. Savor the Flavor of Your Herbs Drying is a classic choice of preserving for a reason. It’s incredibly easy and it works. You don’t need fancy tools or equipment, though having a food dehydrator is a real advantage. Don’t stress if you don’t have one, though. There are lots of other methods to choose from. Which method are you using? Which herbs are you drying? Fill us in via the comments below! Hopefully, this guide gave you the confidence to fill your cupboard with herbs galore! And for more information about growing and using herbs, check out these guides next: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published April 28th, 2022. Last updated April 27th, 2025. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link