The Dominican Route III - Yanhuitlan
Our last stop of the day was at Yanhuitlan. We pulled up at a few minutes before 5 PM. We headed into the church right away and they closed the doors behind us. The rest of the exterior would have to wait until we were either done inside or tossed out.
The church sits on a large platform what was originally the base of a local pre-Columbian temple. This connected it to a previous holy site, provided a good foundation, and stones from the previous temple to use in construction.
If you are not hurrying to get inside you might notice at this point that the church is taller than the others. If not you will when you get inside. Because, wow, it's tall! Apparently its one of the tallest in Mexico. Then you notice that it's not a round vault its slightly peaked like a Gothic vault, also unusual in Mexico. The effect is stunning! It took some guts to build something this tall in an earthquake zone.
The retablo behind the altar is also hugely tall, and sits in a semicircular alcove under a dome. It's also been beautifully restored and even the paintings cleaned.
The figures of the saints on either side and the design of the wall are also beautiful.
The pipe organ looked to also be fully restored, at least all the pipes looked to be in place.
They were particular to point out to us the figure of Jesus on the cross is not the typical dying version with the bleeding wound and the drooping head. Here he is alert with his head up. A living Jesus.
In a side chapel there is a unique representation of them taking Jesus down from the cross. It's carve in Mexican Onyx and the painted. Again unlike anything else I've seen.
By this time they were hustling us out. So we went out the side door onto the large platform. The side doors are used frequently for processions so are also fully detailed.
This church was stunning and apparently the local community took the lead on the restoration getting the funding and making decisions. They did a great job.
There is also a restored monastery next door, but we were too late to get in there.
We then went down behind the church to the area of the zocalo and market. At the base of the platform there was a channel for water distribution and a small structure for people to get fresh water.
It was interesting to note the carving on the right side. That's definitely pre-Columbian. Interesting that they were allowed to use that at a church. Must be an interesting story we will never know.
From here we could see that cylindrical alcove behind the altar.
The sky was darkening and we had over an hour drive to get back to Oaxaca so it was time to head back.
We had a long but very interesting day. For those interested in colonial churches and architecture, it is well worth a day or even more to go to the Mixteca highlands, see the churches and the landscape, and learn some of the history.