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Zingerman’s Deli, Ann Arbor
Ari Weinzweig
Co-Owner & Founding Partner Zingerman’s Delicatessen CEO, Zingerman’s Community of Businesses Ann Arbor, Michigan zingermanscommunity.com
Photograph by Peter Baker Photography www.peterbaker.net
In this, our 50th issue of SLICE Ann Arbor, we are honored to present Ari Weinzweig, co-owner and founding partner of Zingerman’s Delicatessen and CEO of Zingerman’s Community of Businesses. Ari talks with SLICE about food, travel, writing, his longstanding partnership with co-founder Paul Saginaw — and life.
Photograph by Peter Baker Photography
FAVORITES
Book: There are so many. If You Want To Write by Brenda Ueland; Anarchism And Other Essays by Emma Goldman; Ignore Everybody by Hugh MacLeod; Revolution and Other Writings by Gustav Landauer (translated by Gabriel Kuhn); and Inward Bound by Sam Keen. Of late, Man’s Search for Himself by Rollo May.
Destination: San Francisco, Bratislava, Ireland, Italy, Spain, and Tunisia.
Music: This week it’s Allysen Callery, Owl Service, and This Is The Kit. Also Waxahatchee, Freschard, and Olentangy John.
Film: It’s been ages since I’ve gone to one. Time of the Gypsies is one that sticks in my head even though it’s so old that no one will have heard of it. Same with a film called Daughters of the Dust.
THE QUERY
What is it about the art and science of food that keeps you interested and intrigued?
I love it. I’m a history major so I love just understanding the whole story behind each ingredient and each dish. Why it was made? Where it was made? How it came to be? How they make it in its homeland. But with food it’s much better than just studying history because we can bring it alive and let you taste it! I could study food for the rest of my life and would never come close to learning it all. We’ve got a great new line of spices that we’re getting through the de Vienne family in Montreal. Each spice is a story and a half in itself. I asked Philippe de Vienne about their cardamom and got six paragraphs back about how it comes from India where cardamom is indigenous — not Guatemala where most is grown today. Philippe told me about how their colleague in India has the best pods hand-selected and then hand-sorted, and how green cardamom is essentially the vanilla of India. And that’s only the beginning, and it’s only one spice. The de Vienne family will be in Ann Arbor in April doing events at the Deli, Roadhouse, and Bakehouse.
In all your travels, is there a food trip or expedition that stands out in memory?
So many. Learning about Tunisian food. Being in Barcelona. The first time I went into Neal’s Yard Dairy in London, or Ballymaloe House in Ireland. Smelling green chiles roasting for the first time in New Mexico, or the market in Besancon, France filled with wheels of Comte cheese. Being in Budapest a few years ago with Amy and Frank from the Bakehouse to learn about traditional Hungarian baked goods. Learning to make halusky in Bratislava last fall when I was teaching for ZingTrain.
What is your favorite market in the world?
Probably the Boqueria in Barcelona.
Do you have a culinary/food resource that you turn to?
I have so many books stacked up at my house. And I am lucky to know so many people that when I have a question I just start emailing until I find someone who knows more than I do. If you want an on-line resource, Elizabeth Minchilli’s blog is great She’s an American who married an Italian and has lived in Rome for the last thirty years. Elizabeth has a great palate and she’s a great writer. Also the Southern Foodways Alliance website is loaded with great oral histories and films, such as Joe York’s short documentaries. Zester Daily is really good. Brain Pickings has a great enewsletter too, but not about food — just about creativity and ideas.
What have you learned from your longstanding partnership with Paul Saginaw?
I’ve learned a lot more than we can possibly fit into this space. He’s taught me a ton. One of the most important things was that business is really just a tool and you can use it to do good things, or to do bad things. We’ve both probably learned a lot about how to communicate, how to collaborate, how to respect one another’s point of view, and how to adjust and actively support each other’s dreams.We have lots of little sayings like, “when furious, get curious,” that are enormously helpful. I’ve also learned how to laugh during the hard times, how to keep coming back to the table constructively no matter how difficult the conversation might seem, and how much of a difference one can make in the world. And a lot more, I’m sure.
What does the corner of Kingsley and Detroit streets in Ann Arbor mean to you?
It’s been at the center of my life for over 33 years! When we got it, it was a little two story red brick building. The Deli was downstairs and there were still people living upstairs in the apartment. Really my relationship with the building . . . it's almost as long as my relationship with Paul. It’s a great corner — so full of character, the kind of character I like. Very little about it is “normal.” The streets meet at an odd angle. The building is an unusual trapezoidal shape. One street is brick and the other is paved. To the north the neighborhood is residential; to the south it’s businesses. The building was constructed in 1902 by the Disderide family, immigrants from Italy. I think of them and how proud they probably were of this two story red brick building that housed their grocery.
How do you know when it's time to write the next book?
It’s always time to write the next book! At this point I have way more books outlined than I have time to write. So, as soon as I finish the one I’m working on now I’ll be working on the next. Really, whenever I can carve out a few minutes, it’s time to start. Life is short and I have a lot of thoughts to share. And in truth, I do it as much to learn — when I write about both food and business it makes me do homework, and I end up learning a ton in the process.The next book will be Part 4 of the Zingerman’s Guide to Good Leading series—A Lapsed Anarchist’s Approach to the Power of Belief in Business. It has essays on belief, hope, and the spirit of generosity. The book won’t be finished until next year, but I’m doing a preview talk at ZingTrain the morning of April 22nd.
Where do you do most of your writing?
Wherever I am — the Deli, the Coffee Company, or at home. Sitting outside in the sun at a park, on a plane, in the car if someone else is driving — just like I am now while I’m answering the questions in this interview actually.
How many hours can you write in a day?
I write for as many hours as I can get. I just want an hour or so to go run and eventually to make dinner. But if I have time, I can go six, eight, ten, or twelve hours. Of course it’s the rare day when there’s not something else going on, so I don’t usually get that long.
From where do you draw inspiration?
Everywhere. From staff, customers, books, dogs, music, and study. I read a lot. I try to listen a lot. From other people’s art and business. Kids teach me a lot. If all of us just pay attention, we are surrounded by amazing people and things in the world. And, of course, just going into the Deli or Bakehouse, or out to Cornman Farms in Dexter to see the produce growing still inspires me every day. The people I get to work with at Zingerman’s are so amazing. It’s hard not to be inspired by them every day!
How would you describe your home setting?
I live in a house on the east side of Ann Arbor with my girlfriend Tammie and dog Jelly Bean. The house is up on a hill a bit removed from the road and mostly surrounded by trees or snow, depending on the time of year.
Do you have a daily ritual or practice?
I journal every morning. I run every day, usually in the afternoon. And Tammie and I cook dinner almost every night.
How many hours of sleep do you get in a night?
I could sleep like 14 because I love it and I have the ability to sleep any time, anywhere. But there’s so much I want to do, so I actually only sleep maybe five or six.
What three things can't you live without?
I don’t know if “can’t” is the right word. “Don’t want to” is probably better. Tammie and Jelly Bean come first. After that, it would be books, music, and food. More specifically on the food front, good bread like from the Bakehouse, cheese, great olive oil, vegetables, and pasta.
Is there a mark you've yet to make?
Tons. There is so much more food to learn about. I want to be much better as a leader, listener, partner, writer, and cook. Everything we do at Zingerman’s and everything I do in my life I can pretty surely do it better.
What's right with the world?
So much. I’m very, very, fortunate to be part of an amazing community and working with great people and great products. I have so much to appreciate. That said, as your question implies, so many millions of people are living in settings that are violent, where poverty rules, where even getting their next meal is a major piece of work. I feel fortunate every day for what I have in my life, and I work hard to never take anyone or any of it for granted.
How would you like to be remembered?
He worked hard, he learned a lot, he ate well, he laughed a lot, and he helped others to do the same.
Zinerman's Deli at close, Ann Arbor
Zingerman's Deli Patio
Zingerman's Deli