Colombia Travel: How to climb Ritacuba Blanco in Cocuy National Park
Cocuy National Park is not easily accessible. But for the intrepid, the park offers a surrealist high-alpine dreamscape combined with a chance to climb Colombia’s tallest accessible peak: Ritacuba Blanco.
Located in the state of Boyaca near the eastern border with Venezuela, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749 ft) is the tallest mountain in the Cordillera Oriental and the second highest peak in Colombia.
While Pico Cristobal Colon (18,950 ft) located in the Caribbean state of Guajira is the tallest mountain in Colombia, the peak has been reportedly inaccessible for years due to local indigenous groups who consider the mountain sacred and reported paramilitary activity.
Cocuy National Park and Ritacuba Blanco up until ten years ago was also inaccessible to foreigners as the FARC guerrillas claimed the area as a rebel stronghold. However, much has changed in Colombia over the past 10 years, and today the mountain can be climbed.
Here is a trip account from me and my father on our journey to the top of Ritacuba Blanco.
The best access to Ritacuba Blanco is through the town of Guican in the state of Boyaca.
From Bogota there are at least three daily buses with direct service to Guican. The first bus leaves at leaves at 8 am. Under optimal conditions, the trip lasts 12 hours and will pass through the town of El Cocuy before ending at Guican.
Upon our arrival in Guican, we were greeted on the bus by locals who gave my dad and I shots of arguadiente (fire water) as our arrival coincided with a weekend celebration of the the town’s patron saint.
In the town, we found a highly recommended hotel called Cabaña Hotel El Eden. The hotel had very clean rooms with charming wood paneling and excellent views of the mountain hamlet. Tinto (black coffee) was provided as room service, while breakfast, lunch and dinner were also available at additional charge. Our gracious hostess Rosa also offered guests full laundry service.
She also provided us with a number to Posada Sierra Nevada at the border of the park so that we could make reservation for the following nights.
In the morning we made our way to the Cocuy National park office to pay the mandatory entrance fee, which ran at around $25/person for foreigners.
From here we made our way to the park located down a rural country road. While there was a shuttle service, it cost $40, and we decided it would make more sense to walk. The leisurely walk, made slightly less leisurely by our backpacks, took about 5 hours and led us through some beautiful mountain countryside. For me, the rural scenery with cattle pastures on lush green hillsides set against jagged peaks was reminiscent of the French Alps.
There was another option to catch a ride on an early morning milk truck, which leaves at 5 am and costs $5, but it left before the park office opened. With patron saint celebration, Rosa told us all her rooms were reserved for the night, leaving us no option but to set out along the road.
Although we got lost a couple times, the walk was scenic and meditative.
At 2 pm we walked into the park, and after showing our visitors’ passes at the ranger's station, we made our way 5 minutes down the road to the Posada Sierra Nevada. We were shown a room, which was rustic, clean but not in the least bit modern. The room with two beds cost $20/night. There were also hearty country meal options available for $3/person per meal in the communal dining space.
Located directly on the trailhead to Ritacuba Blanco, in our stay at Posada, we enjoyed socializing with the constant stream of Colombian hikers making their way up the glacier.
The only down side to the Posada was a lack of heating compounded by adobe walls and no natural lighting in the room. Consequently, we spent most of our day out on the deck or meandering the mountain roads.
For the most part, the approach to the summit of Ritacuba Blanco is no more than a long walk. However, the glacier for the last 1,000 ft or so up to the summit does include crevasse exposure and a handful of minor technical sections requiring mountaineering equipment and preferably a guide who knows the mountain.
While at the Posada we made arrangements to hire our guide. If we were on a tighter schedule, we might have done it sooner as we had to wait a day for him to become available. Our guide, Hilberto, provided strap-on crampons, ice axes, with ropes and harness along with his guiding service. The guiding cost $50/person and the rental equipment another $30/person.
Our expedition left the trailhead at 4 am and the hike up the steep slope was guided by flashlight until dawn splashed color onto the mountain ridges at around 6 am. Near 14,800 ft we reached the edge of the glacier, where we stopped to strap on our crampons and rope up before heading up the final stretch to the summit.
After more than an hour of slogging up the long glacier, with two minor technical terrain features, we reached the summit. From the top we could see the peaks of Pan de Azucar and Ritacuba Blanco’s gnarly twin Ritacuba Negro.
While the guide provided the technical gear, I was happy my dad insisted I bring an extra warm layer on the trek up to the summit. The low-oxygen air and technical features presented a challenge, but the most difficult aspect for me was the dawn’s icy temperature that left my nose and fingers numb.
On the top we took a minute to snap a few photos and catch our breath before heading back down the mountain as the sun turned the glacier snow into mush.
Aftter exting the glacier, the trail down illuminated by the morning sun reminded me of a rugged version of Dr. Seuss’s The Lorax, with the park’s signature shrubby fraijelones standing in for the Truffula trees.
By 1:30 pm we returned to the Posada. After organizing our equipment, we decided to fork over the $40 and spare our legs the agony of walking back to town.
That night we stayed at our favorite Hotel El Eden, and after succumbing to involuntary sleep by 7 pm, we passed a dreamless night, stirring not a muscle, until the sun’s golden light broke through our window early the next day.