Born in East LA: Lupe's Reviewed
Lupe's East L.A. Kitchen (map)
For a Mexican joint to toss "East L.A." into its title is to set a pretty high bar. Now we haven't actually spent much time in East LA, but we imagine the Mexican there is all the more special (the Latino Walk of Fame is there, in case you were wondering). In the case of Lupe's, they deliver on the promise, albeit from a corner in SoHo. Our pal Ian (pictured below murdering a carnitas taco) remarked, "I feel like I'm in Grand Theft Auto being in this place," and he's spot on. The combination of the food, the decor, and the unbelievable playlist (heavy on the Earth, Wind & Fire) made us feel like we were back in the days of Fernandomania.
Going beyond the ambience, the food at this place is just mean. Nearly everything our waitress, Catalina, brought out of the kitchen was directly on point. And, though we didn't dabble in the extensive tequila selection, the place looks like it knows its way around a margarita. Bottom line, this place needs to be on your to-do list.
One of the first things we noticed was Lupe's strong hot sauce game. Any restaurant with two flavors of Yucateco and Bufalo is in it to win it. But God help you if you over-apply the Yucateco.
Like anybody with a shred of good sense, we kicked things off with a plate of guac and, we have to be honest, we were underwhelmed. To begin with, we thought having the guac on top the shredded lettuce actually made it kind of difficult to eat. It was tough to scoop the stuff onto a chip and, once it was on, there was a high risk that the lettuce would fall off the chip and into your lap... not ideal. Guac is supposed to be easy.
The guac itself had a good tanginess due to a liberal application of lime, but we felt it was a little punchless otherwise. The stuff could have used more jalapeno, for sure, and probably a little more onion. Ian figured that, because we're gringos, we were given the mild version. We hope not because that'd be profiling.
One thing we did like about the guac was the pool of salsa verde in the middle. Not a move we usually see, but one that has legs - stuff was good. All in all, however, you'd be fine skipping the guac and getting to the main event.
We're obviously suckers for a good carnitas taco and these were legit. It starts strong with Nixtamal corn tortillas and steps things up with awesome little chunks of shredded pork. Carnitas can so often be super greasy and/or dry, but the meat here was nice and tender. The taco itself came with diced onions and cilantro (naturally), but the salsa verde and pico turned these guys into some next level stuff. Don't believe us? Ask Ian:
Fella went H.A.M. on these bad boys. You will too.
Andrew's theory (and a damn good one) is that the measure of a Mexican restaurant is its enchiladas. Can they make a good sauce? Does the tortilla hold up? In this case, the enchiladas were strong and were exactly what we were hoping for when we ate at Tehuitzingo. The thing came out on a molten hot plate with refried beans (key) and rice and we have to say, the enchilada sauce was awesome - smoky with a tinge of spice. The tortilla - again, from Nixtamal - held up nicely after being soaked in bubbling sauce and the Oaxaca cheese was basically liquified. Heaping a little bit of everything on that plate onto the fork for a single bite was a particularly strong move to the hoop.
If Andrew's enchilada theory is, in fact, correct, then Lupe's measures up.
Now we've never had a chili verde burrito before - we weren't sure if it was going to be a burrito covered in a salsa verde or a burrito full of green chilis - but we took a chance and ordered it. Luckily for us, it was probably the best thing we had. Turns out, it's a burrito stuffed with poblano peppers, black beans, onions, and sour cream and covered with salsa verde. The first thing about this burrito is that it brought the heat, but it wasn't exactly spicy. Instead, we could kind of feel this thing slowly raising our body temperatures as we were eating it... and we liked that. You will too. If you get one thing here, get this and enjoy the strange yet rewarding sensory experience.
This was a brunch meal, so huevos rancheros absolutely had to be in the mix. Couple of fried eggs - perfectly runny yokes - on top of refried beans and corn tortillas, all covered in a mild pepper salsa. Not a lot to dislike there. The grown man move was to douse this thing in some of the Bufalo salsa habanero. Like the enchiladas, this dish made for awesome, loaded forkfuls and, once it was all done, there were lots of good leftovers - yoke, beans, salsa - on the plate for the rice to soak up. All together, solid if not life-changing. If you like huevos rancheros, you'll enjoy this.
For those out there who aren't familiar with Mexican hot chocolate, it's basically hot chocolate with the addition of vanilla bean, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Yeah, next level. It's usually served with a churro, which we skipped, but Lupe's chocolate was delicious. It was also hotter temperature-wise than the core of the earth. They could probably stand to prepare the drink at a few thousand centigrade cooler, but once it was drinkable, it was great.
Items of Our Lady of Guadalupe paraphernalia: 1
Hot sauce/ salsa varieties: 2 homemade salsas; 6 bottled hot sauces