Some pics from Amyâs recent visit.
How much fun can you have in NZ in just two weeks? Quite a lot, as it turns out.

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Some pics from Amyâs recent visit.
How much fun can you have in NZ in just two weeks? Quite a lot, as it turns out.
Roadtrip round the East Cape with Izzie
At Vi and Dennis' vineyard near Gisborne
Maranga Cattle Station near Gisborne
As it turns out, Iâm right on the edge of Lake Waikaramoana which is one of NZâs Great Walks. No idea it was here but when I see the sign for it, it seems like just what I was looking for. So I walk around the lake for a couple of hours, meet some nice people who tell me itâs about 3 or 4 hours drive to Gisborne from here. Oooops. That means I am very, very late for my next WWOOF hosts. Needless to say, thereâs no phone reception out here. Briefly I curse myself for being so âwing itâ with my travelling plans, yet again. But thereâs nothing I can do about it now so might as well enjoy myself.
After 70km of dirt roads: Iâm over it. The next place I find to camp Iâm just going to fling up my tent and settle in for the night. This oneâs a DOC site (Department of Conservation) and itâs free. Facilities are, shall we say, âlimitedâ and consist of a longdrop toilet and a rainwater tap.
When I go to Murapura (edge of nowhere) to head out here (middle of nowhere) I stocked up on things I suspected might not be forthcoming for the rest of the trip â food, drinking water, petrol. Cash? I considered it but then thought: where will you find to spend it? So in the end I didnât bother.
This is perfect: just what I wanted. I splash about in the stream in my gumboots (brilliant), eat simple food (all I need), watch it get dark (blissful). A peaceful nightâs sleep, some yoga, breakfast (Ryanâs strawberries) eaten in the hollow of a tree then Iâm ready to hit the road again in the morning.
When the sign said âwandering stockâ it wasnât kidding. I donât think there are any fences in this part of NZ. Cows, horses, sheep, theyâre all out to party. This bull is huge.
I know I said I was going to give the blog a rest for a while but I canât resist a good roadtrip yarn. I head out from Rotorua, thinking Iâll go through Whakatane then take the road inland to Gisborne. Somehow Iâve got myself on the wrong road (SH 38 is not the same as SH30 apparently) and by the time I realise there doesnât seem much point in going all the way back. The next sign informs me that there are 95km of unsealed roads ahead. Great. Glad I checked Zashaâs tyre pressure before I left Cambridge.
It actually turns out to be a lot longer than 95km. But Te Urewera National Park is beautiful so I just sit back and enjoy the long, slow drive. A section of the road is littered with car fenders and hubcaps (Zasha and I donât worry about lost hubcaps â we never had any to begin with). Â
All the cars look like Zasha, or else theyâre pickup trucks. One truckbed is full of Maori kids (and I do mean FULL, I think thereâs about 20 of them in there.) Another pickup has a horse attached, trotting along behind it. The horse looks a bit surprised. Â Â
This really is the middle of nowhere. Iâm driving down this dirt road because it is the only road. Itâs a little scary. I realise thereâs no one in the world who knows where I am right now. Nothing like a bit of adrenaline to keep your reactions sharp.
Surprisingly, there are a few little towns, or settlements at least, along here. Itâs kind of nice to know there are people out here, making their living (Lord knows how), raising their families, living their day to day lives, so far from what most English people would think of as civilisation.
Rotorua doing what it does best, which is being weird and apocalyptic.
Ryan and Mat, doing what Ryan and Mat do best which is playing paper rock scissors.
This game never gets old.
Swung through Cambridge on my way over to Gisborne to see Ryanâs strawberry farm. Helped out in the packhouse and ate strawberry ice cream, yum! And Fayeâs friend fixed my car window so Zasha now has three whole windows that work, hooray!
The Year of Epic Beauty
And so concludes my first year of Adventures in Middle Earth. It feels like an achievement to have managed to keep this blog going so long, especially as I often didnât have internet access and even more especially as I was often too busy adventuring to write about it. So there are a lot of things that didnât make it on to the blog but I have my memories.
Sometimes I wish I could have done more things in my year but I donât really see how it would have been humanly possible!
However, I wonât be trying to document everything from now on. Itâs taking up too much of my time that I want to spend on other things, like staying in touch better with people back home. This has been a big challenge and one I freely admit I have not always been equal to. Some friendships have endured, even flourished. Some have fallen away. So be it. Some I know weâll pick up where we left off when I visit the UK in June next year. Some I wonât waste the energy. New links have been forged. I have a new life here now.
So to all of you who sent emails, stories, pictures and tales of life âback homeâ or even just read this blog: THANK YOU. I appreciate your efforts, even when I was rubbish at staying in touch. I am sorry and I will make more of an effort to be better at this in future.
And thank you especially to Amy who was the only person with whom I felt constantly connected, our thoughts and words winging their way back and forth over the Pacific. Some friendships are built to last. See you on these shores in December for some real-life adventures!
Adventures in Middle Earth turned 1 today!
Early morning Cairns.
Snorkelling with the fishies at the Great Barrier Reef.
I think snorkelling might be the new quadbiking.
On holiday with my parents in Aussie.
 My orchard pouch, complete with super-sharp secateurs, Chlorox spray for tools, Greenseal and copper for pruning cuts.
And my loppers. I love my loppers! Really donât wanna give them back!