What to say about Napoli? I have been to a few places in Italy but I was not ready for Napoli.
In three words : vibrant, busy and dirty. Each areas of the Napolitano city gives a different vibe: the crowded historic center, the posh Chiaia, the festive Spanish quarter, the quiet Vomero.
If you have time, and a fan of history, go check out the natural park of Vesuvio and the Pompeii site. Overall, Napoli will not leave you on the reserve. It is definitely a must-go. But not too long.
Try to escape the city to recharge. Not too far by boat, you have several islands to visit: Capri, Procida and Ischia.
For us, we decided to focus on Ischia. Only 50 minutes by speed boat with Alilaura company. The island is full of thermal swimming pools. We chose O'Vagnitiello, small and familial hotel on the edge of a private crique. Only a couple rooms available, I would recommend the king size room with sea view. Spectacular to wake up with the sun right in the room and the sound of the waves crushing right outside our window. The place is especially magical when all the daily guests leaves at the end of the day, then it is you and the few guests from the hotel with the owners. Really intimate in the best way. Breakfast and food from the restaurant will give you complete satisfaction: delicious, fresh and local. During the day, you have 4 natural and warm pools at your disposal, a sauna, a jacuzzi and of course the best pool of mother nature: the Mediterranean sea.
Tips:
1. I would definitely recommend to book your stay in low season such as late September - mid October. Less people during the day, many sunbeds available, quieter, and sea water still warm from the summer.
2. Book everything in advance: ferry, various entrances for churches, museums,natural parks, etc.
3. Stay in historic center, which will give you the chance to visit all areas of Napoli by foot. And you are close to many nice restaurants so you don't have to do long distance walking back to hotel.
4. Be careful to yourself and your belongings. Many pickpockets like in all big cities. Trust your instinct when traveling, be aware of your surroundings and people around you.
5. Where we ate? Pizzeria Brandi> for THE original pizza Margherita, Trattoria da Nennella> best cantina (good value for your money), Pizzeria Concettina ai Tre Santi> with one star Michelin and a very cute outdoor, Osteria Donna Teresa> in the very chic area near the funicular station.