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Had this on the bus while my pupils were dilated and I was blinded by the snow and cold and it was lifting.

#D'Eon #brr

Kelela! <3

#kelela #solange #blood orange #pop

pixography

indigocrayon

In reserving the category of “fashion” exclusively for certain kinds of white Western bourgeois styles of dress and personhood, the fashion elite have hijacked the term. Styles and practices of dress not sanctioned by the fashion elite are relegated to the broad category of “non-fashion,” which includes everything from outdated clothing styles to “ethnic garb.” In this binary logic, “fashion” is the sign of Western modernity, innovation, dynamism, and choice (a point Myers emphasizes so strongly) and non-fashion is the sign of the unmodern, the uninnovative, the static, and the oppressed. People associated with non-fashions like, say “ethnic garb,” are imagined as “traditional” subjects who lag behind or are situated outside of the modern West. Fashion’s alignment with “the modern” and, tacitly, white American and Western European culture is a foundational fiction of fashion that passes for self-evident truth in too much popular, vernacular, and critical fashion discourse. But fashion isn’t alone in its imperialist claims on “the modern”. This dominant logic of fashion is part and parcel of what Minoo Moallem usefully describes as “civilizational thinking”: “a powerful modern discourse influenced by the Enlightenment and the idea of progress dividing the civility of the ‘West’ from the barbarism of the ‘Rest.’” Hardly an innocent sartorial designation, the logic of “ethnic garb” which places some practices and styles of dress outside of the category of Fashion (and all the positive connotations that accrue to it) has produced devastating material, social, and physical consequences.

Minh-Ha T. Pham, “Fraught Intimacies: Fashion & Feminism (The Director’s Cut)” (via rifles)

kirilk

Paris heat.

Danish clothing brand Wood Wood provides its web guests with an easily overlooked ‘Muzak’ menu option. Click thru to unfold a set of diverse and thoughtfully compiled mixtapes by an impressive list of DJs and music collectors from around the world. Really especially love the one by Christian D’or. Great for late nite projects, moods of introversion. njoy

#wood wood #fashion #no wave #minimal #psych #mixtape #christian d'or

Sum reading material:

Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System by Barbara Vinken

Barbara Vinken documents the evolution and influence of avant-garde and postfashion movements from the 70's to today. She highlights Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, Helmut Lang, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana, and Karl Lagerfeld as part of her cultural theory on fashion in the 21st century.

#margiela #comme des garcons #helmut lang #lagerfeld #gaultier #postfashion #avant garde #fashion