wePrint3D

[weprint3d]

Our (developed by martflu and me) G-code Simulator webservice for Makerware G-code finally reached a very usable state. Using it is as simple as choosing '.gcode' instead of '.x3g' when exporting from Makerware and drag-and-droping the file to the website. Additionally you can change the number of layers that should be printed before the image is rendered and the color of the filament. After some seconds the result appears.

All the code is open source and can be found at https://subversion.assembla.com/svn/blender-gcode-simulator/trunk/ . If anybody needs a different license just ask per email (found in the readme-file).

We hope to find a place to host the site for public use in the next weeks and we'll post here again when the service is online.

[weprint3d]

A capo for my ukulele I found on thingiverse. The first three pictures are of the first iteration. The spring won't fit the capo, the wound up part is too big for the hole, and the top handle won't reach the little nudge on top of the capo (if you look closely at the second image, you can see it on the top arm). Everything's kinda wonky, a good learning experience.

[weprint3d]

For the second challenge -- repair something by printing a spare part -- I modelled a replacement for the cover for my Canon EF 50/1.8 I lens. I lost the cover a few years ago, and never got around replacing it.

I modelled it in OpenSCAD. The first iteration looked different, and didn't fit because it was too small. This is the second iteration, with isn't a tight enough fit, so I used some sticky tape around the inner rim that goes into the filter thread of the lens to create some traction. It's a bit ugly, but it works good enough.

[martflu]

[weprint3d]

Fraction learning kit (Bruchrechen Lernmaterial)

on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84882

Kids can learn which fractions are equal, for example 2 1/8 are equal to 1/4 by stacking the 1/8 pieces on top of the 1/4 peace. The more advanced can add 1/4 and 1/8 by putting them onto the plate and counting the sections of the plate.  

The most advanced calculation that can be done is something like 1/2+1/6=2/3 by putting the corresponding fractions onto the 3/3 plate.

[weprint3d]

settlers of catan knights and cities: knight replacement

build time: 7m

on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84932

Printed with 4 filament changes on Makerbot Replicator 2 with medium resolution on the coarse side of the building plate. the Ritter08-version had too fine detail so the Ritter27simplified-version worked best for me. i also provide the Ritter08-version for people with a better printer.  

The tool chain to create this:

scan with flatbed-scanner

convert to black and white with gimp (levels tool)

converted to path in inkscape

exported as dxf with inskape plugin http://tim.cexx.org/?p=590

imported to sketchup using plugin http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22199

cleaned the model of unneccesary edges using sketchup plugin http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22920

edited with sketchup

exported to stl with sketchup plugin http://sketchupdate.blogspot.co.at/2013/01/stls-for-3d-printing-in-and-out-of.html

[weprint3d]

ball bearing iphone cable clips lost keys tag (need to refine it and use another color :))

[weprint3d]

Planetary Gears Set 

thing on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:36822

time to build: 2h56min (sum of all parts)

I first printed the 1_to_2_stages_kit.stl and the crank_n_toolBit.stl scaled to 125% with at 0.25mm layer heigth and with 60% infill with makerware medium quality. it didn't fit. maybe I should have used skeinforge with decreased flowrate or increase feedrate (regarding the comments on the original thing) or 0.25mm layer height was a bad idea.

however, i didn't want to print it all again so i used a drill to widen the the holes without thread and printed the plates and nuts bigger and the crank peg smaller (as described in one picture). now it fits and works, not really smooth though.

[weprint3d]

Key Hanger with 5 modified Hooks

this thing on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:78860

time to build: 53min

i used the customizer ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44482 ) to make a 5-hook-key-hanger and imported the resulting .stl-file into sketchup (with this plugin http://sketchupdate.blogspot.co.at/2013/01/stls-for-3d-printing-in-and-out-of.html ). then i cleaned the model up ( with this plugin http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22920 ) and edited the hooks to add a bit of slip-of-safety (sketchup file available for download on thingiverse). afterwards i exported to .stl and did a check and repair on the .stl ( http://cloud.netfabb.com/ ).

the different color are realized with a fillament change after the printer starts to draw the symbols. to prevent the corners from lifting of the build plate is used the ear rafts ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38272 )

thanks to KyroPaul for the customizable version this is based on.

[weprint3d]

I had two sessions so far and have already printed a few things (in the following order):

Lace Stops, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54636

10 minutes for 8 pieces (2 pair of shoes), not bad.

Trophy, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8477

It broke when I tried to remove it from the platform, and it has a small defect on one side (one line of the filament fell inside the cup).

Gear Bearing, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451

I had to print this one, it’s so cool :). Although it does not rotate smoothly.

Business Card Holder, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:76524

Took longer than expected, but looks very nice. Also, the writing is pretty good.

[martflu]

[weprint3d]

Prototype of a ball joint concept.

[martflu]

[weprint3d]

My first print. Based loosely on this which came from that.

[martflu]

[weprint3d]

Basic Gear Bearing.

[weprint3d]

This is the block bot V 3.1 by msruggles

It is working really well. The block can easily be transformed to the robot and the other way round. But putting everything together was not easy. It took some force to do so.

[weprint3d]

To start things of and learn how the printer works, I printed a prop for a Pathfinder or Dungeons and Dragons campaign that I found on thingiverse in golden PLA. It fits the standard 1 inch grid, so it's 2x2x1 inch in dimensions, which comes down to about 50.8x50.8x25.4 millimeters. Printing it took 40 minutes. If you're on thingiverse, feel free to comment on the final outcome.

I really don't know why the colors are so off. If I find out, I'm gonna update the post.

[weprint3d]

Yesterday, I printed a working hemostat as a reference to help me understand compliant mechanisms. The thing is taken from thingiverse, more precisely I used this STL by CaptainKirk. I had to scale up the model a bit, as the joints of my first two tries were either not there or too weak. You can also comment on the final outcome on thingiverse.

It worked pretty well, right until I broke it. The only thing that didn't work was locking it. If you look closely at the handles, there's little hooks down there, that should allow you to lock the hemostat. Didn't work for me, and while trying to work around the problem, I broke it.

My next challenge is to remix the design and make a capo for my ukulele from it that uses the same mechanical concept.

[weprint3d]

This blog was set up to show the works of students during the course »exploring disruptive technologies« in the summer term 2013. The topic is additive manufacturing/3D printing, and all participants will print multiple objects during the semester. Have fun!