Wuffstuff Blog

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Does my dog need a winter coat?

Does my dog need a coat this winter?

Let’s dispel the myth that dogs in coats and jumpers look silly. There’s a practical element too. You shouldn’t feel embarrassed buying your dog a coat as for some it’s a necessity.

There are many things to consider when thinking of getting your dog a coat for the winter. Most importantly, does he/she actually need one in the first place?

Small breeds (aka little dogs) are most likely to need extra warmth during the winter months; especially when out on walks as they are less well equipped in dealing with cold temperatures. As well as the little dogs short haired breeds like Whippets and Greyhounds may require a coat too as they tend to shiver when outdoors in the cold and will enjoy their walk more if well insulated.

If you live in particularly cold areas of the UK then whatever breed of dog you have big or small they may still require a coat. Its personal preference and you will want to ensure that your dog is kept warm and dry.

What type of coat should I buy?

There are many different types of dog coat available on the market today. You need to ensure that you select one that is easy to clean and will last but also has other properties that will benefit your dog in the winter e.g. reflective edges, shower proof material, padded lining, rear leg straps. The list goes on…Other things to consider are how easy it is to take on and off and how much coverage it leaves your dog. The last thing you want to do is spend money on a dog coat that only covers part of your dogs back area!

How do I measure my dog for a coat?

Thankfully measuring your dog for a coat is a simple task. You simply measure you dog from the base of the neck to the tail (see attached pic). If your dog falls within two different sizes we recommend you always go with the larger size.

  This year we have gone with the complete range of Ancol Muddy Paws Dog Coats and Sweaters as we believe the quality and price to be unrivalled in the UK. Prices start at £8.99 and the range consists of around 14 different styles. Attractive colours and materials will ensure that you find exactly what you need with little fuss.

http://www.wuffstuff.com/categories/dog-clothing-apparel

David Lee

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Stop Those Dogs Jumping Up

Jumping up at people is a highly social and usually dominant way for dogs to say "Hello." Play-fighting by dominant types involves similar behaviour.

The socially bold dog that is isolated often jumps excitedly when a person enters his area.

Removal of the causative factors, such as excessive isolation, horseplay between owners and their dogs (or neighbours, friends, etc), or what appears to be genuine overexcitement, must be accompanied by some recognition by the dog of the leadership position of his owners.

The jumping dog that does not respond to traditional methods of physical aversion such as being pushed down with a firm 'no' of correction is usually the excitable and socially bold type.

Such a dog's response may be even more tenacious (although usually good-natured)  bad behaviour. If simple command responses are taught on a nonphysical basis, the corrections are generally easily accomplished. Dogs that respond readily to Come, Sit and Stay commands are quick to recognise behaviour that displeases their leaders.

One method of stopping the jumping is to crouch down so the object of attention, the owner's face, is where the pet need not jump to achieve its greeting. This requires physical stamina and patience in the case of extremely exuberant pets, but it yields excellent results quickly in mild cases.

A method that often works with highly reactive dogs is a quick, toward-the-dog movement, almost like a cha-cha dance step, followed by absolute stillness of the owner. The sudden movement toward the pet often stops its approach; the following stillness secures calmness. If a jump is still in the offing, a quick side step, followed by absolute stillness, is called for. This method takes more time than some others, but the cure is lasting once achieved.

Use of a distracting stimulus has proved effective when applied as the dog approaches with the intent of jumping. This may involve throwing a ball or some other unique stimulus. After a few such distractions, the dog will be conditioned not to jump up. If a ball has been thrown, a frantic search for the play object is a substitute behaviourism often welcomed by harassed owners or guests.

In all cases of correction, the dog must be praised with a soft-spoken "Good dog" and petted, if at all, in a slow and calming manner. This helps reinforce following behaviour and instills calmness to replace the previous excitement.

Another effective deterrent is to allow the dog to jump, then grab the forepaws and hold them until the dog start to pull them away. Then the paws are instantly released, the hands are put

behind.

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Separation Anxiety and Dogs

Today we're taking a look at a common canine complaint - the tricky issue of the dog who doesn't like to be left alone: separation anxiety.

  Does this sound like you and your dog? You've had him since he was a puppy. He is a sweet dog, eager to please, and enjoys being around you and your whole family.  But lately, you've notice that he's become destructive around the house whenever he's left alone, even for just a few hours. You come home and the house looks like it was hit by a tornado - papers scattered everywhere, the trash can was knocked down, and your clothes were chewed into shreds. Your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety, a problem common with many puppies and dogs. Separation anxiety is a panic disorder exhibited by a dog in the absence of his owner. It is the fear of being left alone that results in unwanted, destructive behaviors.  Dogs are social creatures. As puppies it is natural for them to get dependent and attached to their mother and littermates. This type of attachment is transferred on to you, his owner, when the puppy enters your life. This attachment results in distress whenever the dog is left alone in the house, which is the most common cause of separation anxiety. Signs Of Separation Anxiety Your dog could be suffering from separation anxiety if he displays any of the following signs: Destructiveness; excessive crying, barking, howling, whining, house soiling, pacing, depression, self mutilation, excessive salivation, hyperactivity, and scratching or chewing at walls, doors, windows, furniture, and other objects when you're not with him.

  But how would you know if you weren't with him?

  Sometimes it's good to try and find a vantage point to observe how your dog behaves when you're not there, somewhere where you can see him but he can't see you. It might just blow your mind how your dog behaves when he thinks you've gone.

Causes Of Separation Anxiety There are many causes for separation anxiety in dogs. Some were developed with experiences they had before the dog ever became part of your family, such as loss or abandonment of previous owner.  Below are six other causes of separation anxiety in dogs: 1. A traumatic experience such as an injury, thunderstorm, or an alarm system going off that happened while you were gone. 2. A loss or addition of a family member. 3. Premature separation from its mother and littermates. 4. Having a new pet in the house and spending a lot of time with that new pet and less time with him.  5. A sudden change in schedule, lifestyle, or environment. 6. Changes that occur in older dogs, both physiologically and mentally, that results from ageing.

  All of these things can cause or intensify feelings of stress and anxiety in many dogs. They can manifest in many different ways but one of the most common is separation anxiety.

  So, how do we improve our dog's confidence and help them to relax when we're not there?

  As we've already touched on, separation anxiety occurs when dogs feel frightened and distressed at the absence of their owner. This type of attachment problem can be mild or severe. A mild case is often exhibited when the dog is pacing, over-grooming, and panting, whereas a severe case of separation anxiety can be quite a challenge for the owner. The dog soils the house, cries nonstop, barks or howls, and destroys furniture and other objects around the house. Often times, the dog starts to show behaviours associated with separation anxiety after being left alone for only ten or fifteen minutes.  Here are five tips that can help. 1. Some dogs feel comfortable being confined to a smaller space ssuch as a crate or a small gated area of the house, while others feel comfortable when in a kennel outdoors (it really depends on the individual dog but it is something you should be aware of) If your dog starts to feel agitated when crated, take him out and do not try to force it because it can only make matters worse. If your dog takes well to the crate, you could have found a quick, easy solution to the problem. 2. In some cases, confining your dog to a small area where he has viewing access to the outside world is enough to make him feel comfortable and eliminate separation anxiety. You can place his crate or bed in front of a sliding glass door or a clear window. Unhelpfully, having a view of the outside world can make some dogs even worse! Again, it's time for testing.

  3. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety because of boredom. Find a job that your dog can do. Teach him how to play "Find it" - a game that he can play by himself. To play this game, you must hide his favorite bones or stuffed treats where he can find them. To keep him busy, use three or five bones or treats (depending on how long you'll be gone). Here's a really quick tip that has a very high success rate, I do it with my dogs: Get some sugarfree sugar puffs (sounds like a contradiction but trust me, they exist and you don't want your dog getting fat). Create a routine about when you're going out so your dog understands what's going on - it will help them if they are confused and expect you may have gone out for a moment or two and may have forgoten them. As you are leaving, grab a fistful of sugar free sugar puffs and start to scatter them in the area where the dog will be staying, encourage them to hunt and find, scatter them far and wide and if you have a dog who likes hunting for treats, this action will not only keep them busy but it can also become your 'signal' that you are going out for a while. After a short period, the dog will associate your going out with them getting a hunting game and, in many cases, they'll start to actually get excited about you leaving!

4. Another way to fight boredom is to provide your dog with plenty of toys. Rotate the toys so he will not get tired of playing with them. Playing, chewing, chasing, and hunting for his toys or treats has the power to cause your dog utilize his natural canine instincts while keeping him occupied for hours. 5. Leave the television on or play a soft, relaxing music. Researches have shown that soft, classical music relaxes dogs. Pick something that you listen to when you are at home, so your pet doesn't relate the music to your absence. Background noise can help to disguise any sounds from the outside world which may startle your dog or disturb them, causing them to bark or get stressed.

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10 Ways to Stop Fleas from Biting Your Dog

1. Spot-on Treatments

While spot-on medications seem like they would only work on the spot they are applied to (in the same way a collar works), they are actually very effective at covering the animal’s entire body. The drops work by a process of translocation, by which the medication is spread over the body by way of the oil glands. They are not affected by bathing, swimming or rain and will kill and repel fleas for several weeks before reapplication. They may also work to interrupt the flea life cycle while it is in progress. Before choosing a particular spot-on product, read all labels carefully to be sure you are choosing the one most appropriate for your dog’s age and size.

2. Oral Medications

If you need help controlling a serious flea infestation, using oral medications along with spot-on treatments will help. Once a month flea control pills (in small tablet form) work to disrupt the life cycle of fleas, but do not kill adult fleas on contact. Some are made to be easy to administer, even for pets that are difficult to medicate, with flavor added to make them more like treats so they are accepted gladly -- or at least easier to hide in your dog’s food. With the oral medication, you won’t have to be concerned about small children coming into contact with the dog immediately after administration, as you might with spot-on treatments.

3. Flea Shampoos

Bathing your dog with a special medicated shampoo that kills fleas and/or ticks on contact can be an inexpensive (though labor-intensive) method of protecting your dog during flea season, or year round. You will need to repeat the process more often, about every two weeks, as the effective ingredients in these shampoos won’t last as long as a spot-on or oral medication.

4. Flea Collars

Collars that repel and kill fleas are another option. Their effectiveness may depend on how invasive the fleas are in your dog’s environment, and the collar needs to make contact with your dog’s skin in order to transfer the chemicals onto the fur and skin. When adjusting the collar around your dog’s neck, make sure there is just enough room to fit two fingers under the collar. Cut off any excess length of collar to prevent your dog from chewing on it, and watch for signs of discomfort (e.g., excessive scratching) in case an allergic reaction to the collar occurs. Make sure you read labels carefully when choosing a collar to make sure it is size and age appropriate.  

5. Flea Dips

A dip is a concentrated chemical that needs to be diluted in water and applied to the animal’s fur with a sponge, or poured over the back. This is not like a shampoo bath, so you will not rinse your dog off after applying the dip product. These chemical products can be very potent, so labels need to be read carefully before use to make sure that it is appropriate for your dog age and health. Misuse can lead to toxic reactions, in both pets and in the people treating them, so they are generally only used for severe infestations, and only infrequently. Because of the chemical potency of dips, they should not be used on very young animals (under four months) or on pregnant or nursing animals. Ask your veterinarian for advice before treating puppies and pregnant or nursing pets.

6. Powders and Sprays

Flea powders and sprays are relatively inexpensive methods of repelling fleas. Be cautious when applying these products, as the spray or fine powder can be irritating to the mouth and lungs if breathed in (for both animals and humans). Also be sure to use caution around the eyes, nose, and mouth. As these products will wear off the skin faster than a spot-on treatment, you will need to reapply them more often. Always read labels carefully before using flea powders or sprays.

7. Clean House

For any level of flea infestation, light or severe, you will need to do a thorough house cleaning, and you will need to clean daily until the situation has been brought under control. Vacuum in every corner and along the baseboards, and throw out the vacuum bag when you are finished. Wash all of your dog’s bedding and toys with warm soapy water and vacuum the car too -- even if you do not take your dog into your car, since you may be carrying fleas on your shoes or pant-cuffs. Removing the majority of flea eggs and larvae present will help reduce the population of adults hatching in your home.

8. Household Sprays and Foggers

To further treat your home, you can use sprays and/or foggers that will kill the adult fleas, as well as the larvae and eggs as they hatch. These products are available at your veterinarian’s office or pet supply store. Care must be taken when using these products, as they can be toxic to fish, birds, cats and children. Read labels carefully and ask for advice from your veterinarian before attempting to use these products. In the face of a severe infestation, you may want to hire a professional exterminator to spray the house properly.

9. Flea Traps

You can purchase ready-made "flea traps" from your local hardware store, or you can make your own. Sticky pads (some with lights attached) are laid on the floor, where the fleas become attached to the sheet while jumping around. This will help eliminate some of the adult fleas from the environment, but not the eggs or larvae. A home-made light trap is made by setting a small dish of soapy water on the ground near a light source at night (such as a small lamp or night light). Fleas are attracted to the warmth and light and will jump into the water, where they will drown.

10. Clear the garden

If there are fewer areas for these parasites to live and breed, there will be fewer of them to be concerned with. Keeping your lawn, bushes, and trees consistently trimmed back will help reduce the population of fleas in your backyard. If you still have a problem, consider using the various yard sprays or granular treatments that are available from your veterinarian, pet store, or local garden center. Or, you might consider hiring a pest control service for regular yard treatments. Just be careful when using these products, as they can be harmful to pets, fish, and humans (you may want to warn your neighbors before each yard application so they can protect themselves from incidental contact with the chemicals).

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Regular checks on your dogs health

How to give your dog an annual MOT!

  Today we are taking our dogs through a car-like annual road test.

  Like cars, the Dog MOT is the examination of a canine's related systems components to ensure that they have not worn to an excessive level, which could otherwise render the canine unsafe for use on the park.

An annual health check is always a fun and worthwhile exercise but always remember, by using the services of your vet you are likely to save time and money and reduce the risk of any health problems for your dog creeping up on you.

TESTING THE BRAKES

This should involve the checking of the paws and claws for damage, wear and tear. A dog that continues to walk or run on an injured paw may cause unnecessary excess damage to itself.

TESTING THE DOORS

This involves the checking of the mouth and the teeth for any obvious problem. Teeth can become infected and the mouth should be checked for ulcers. Dogs suffer from toothache as well.  Take a closer look at your dog's diet as this could help protect their teeth.

TESTING THE EMISSIONS

This involves checking the bowels, the faeces, the urine, the breath and the anal glands for any obvious problems. Worms are a common problem amongst dogs and can easily be resolved. Your dog's diet yet again plays an important role in the emissions and an MOT may pick up some problems in the early stages.

TESTING THE FUEL SYSTEM

It is advisable that your dog's diet is checked over. The diet may become a cure or indeed a problem for your dog. Your dog may be sensitive to something in its current diet and may need to undergo a 'food allergy' test. Putting the wrong kind of fuel into your dog is not desirable.

TESTING THE HORN

The bark and growl of a dog is often an early warning system to deter trouble and it can be used as a way of letting you know that something is wrong. It is necessary for a dog's bark to be in perfect working order as this is its main means of communication.  Sore throat, toothache and even depression can cause the bark to malfunction.

TESTING THE LIGHTS & MIRRORS

This would involve the checking of the eyes for diseases such as Glaucoma, Conjunctivitis and Cataracts. These, if found early, can be treated and controlled. Unfortunately Glaucoma is one of the most frequent causes of blindness in adult dogs and cannot be cured, just controlled. Bleeding, Inflammation and Tumours can also occur in the eye. The ears of a dog also play a vital role in its communication with us. Ears can become infected in various ways (mite, bacterial and fungal infections are probably the most common). If a dog scratches too much it may cause a blood vessel to burst and could result in a blood blister. Ear disease is very hard to be prevented but regular check ups could limit any potential damage.

TESTING THE SUSPENSION & TYRES

Maintaining the balance and general wear and tear of your dog is very important. Healthy joints and legs go a long way to securing this. A cruciate ligament rupture can cause severe discomfort for a dog. It is more common in unfit or overweight dogs so the diet of your dog will be a major factor in this. If an unfit or overweight dog gets the necessary treatment early on, this could prevent any long lasting damage to it's legs and joints such as arthritis.

TESTING THE STEERING

The brain, the device that controls everything, the way your dog reacts, moves, sees and walks etc. This would prove difficult to test but older dogs may be susceptible to 'brain-ageing'. Slowing down this process can be achieved by a change in diet as some types of food have shown that they can improve learning ability in older dogs as well as improve alertness and enthusiasm. A sound mind will go a long way to reducing the chance of any other little problems cropping up. Brain tumours are uncommon in dogs younger than five years old but a neurological examination would be required. The neurological exam would involve the testing of the dog's reflexes, examining the coordination, limb strength, head position, cranial nerve responses and general attitude.

TESTING THE VEHICLE STRUCTURE

The skin is the largest and most visible organ of the animal body. It protects the internal organs from a hostile environment. It provides form and covering and has numerous other roles in the body. It prevents moisture and essential chemicals leaving the body while allowing secretion of other materials. It has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. The skin is an essential part of the body's immune system monitoring and fighting infections.

As it is the 'bodywork' of the dog, disease is readily apparent. Hair loss, itching, dandruff, scabs and sores may all occur. Diseases of the skin may be related to other organ systems or each other and a complex interplay of signs and diseases ensues causing confusion for the owners and difficulties for vets.

It is therefore often necessary for many different diseases to be considered and ruled out before a final diagnosis to be made and correct treatment used. Vets are getting much better at dealing with skin diseases but sometimes they need the support of a specialist veterinary dermatologist. A WORD OF ADVICE: Skin disease treatments can be particularly expensive as prolonged and repetitive treatment is necessary. Pet Insurance can help take the financial sting out of this.

TESTING THE WINDSCREEN

The windscreen is a form of defence. It is important that your dog's defence is kept up to date. Check that all the injections are up to date and check your Pet Insurance policy hasn't lapsed. Treatments for dogs cost, some are pretty expensive. A few pounds a month can go a long way to saving you money in the long term. Fleas and worms can be kept to a minimum by regular treatment.

An annual dog MOT may pick up some concerns from your vet that you may be unaware of. As long as you maintain your dog's health during the year, your dog MOT should be a simple formality but if you just rely on your vet to pick up these problems, it may be too late for treatment to be administered.

Although an annual check up is recommended there are things that you can do to maintain your dog during the course of the year. A few have already been mentioned but are worth re-iterating.

Regular grooming will promote well being ensuring that your dog is comfortable and free from the irritation of dead skin and hair build up. It is an essential part of their care.

Thorough grooming would remove all dead hair and any tangled bits.

Keeping the toenails neat and tidy will reduce the risk of long nails catching or indeed growing back into the pads.

The cleaning of the ears removes wax and debris from the ear canal, which reduces the risk of ear infections and canker.

Many of our dogs are plagued with the all too familiar dog breath. Regular teeth cleaning can go some way to reducing this. There are also treatments for the removal of tartar through routine descaling.

Bathing your dog in a hypoallergenic shampoo can have various effects. There are different types of shampoo available on the market to alleviate certain things. Shampoos can relieve sore and itchy skin, make white coats bright and can promote coat growth producing a fabulous shine. There are also shampoos to help repel insect infestation.

Scissors and clippers can be used to style and trim your dog to a desired look. A trim could suit both you and your dog's lifestyle.

If you are prepared to invest a little time, money and effort into the well being of your dog this could substantially reduce the long-term costs of any treatments and could improve the long-term fitness and longevity of your dog.

The Dog MOT is not compulsory, but an annual check up would surely benefit you and your dog. It is law for your car, but do you love your car more than your dog? Some may do, but the majority of us love our dog more. I certainly would want to know that I am improving the well-being, health and happiness of my dog!

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Bathing your dog

What Is The Easiest Way To Bath Your Dog?

 It's always better (and easier) to use the bath to wash your medium to large dog because the water can be deeper and he will be able to get a full soak. Not only that, but shampoo comes out a bit better using a combination of water temperatures. 

Things you need in the bath: 1) Rubber anti-slip mat. 2) Spray attachment for tap or shower head. 3) Gloves (not vital). When you shampoo your dog it can be helpful to mix some water and shampoo in a separate bottle just for that bathing. It goes into the coat easier that way and comes out better. After the scrub, have a heavy towel or rug on the floor and dry him with big towel. Let him go directly out to a grassy area to shake. No dirty sand pits please. Note: Smaller dogs can sometime go in the sink for their bath but beware of the disposal and use caution with dogs that like to jump.

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Labrador Training

Labrador training has been taught by many different schools of thought.  Teaching your Lab new tricks and handling obedience training takes both dedication and patience.  It also takes a sense of skill and personal awareness of not only your dog's actions, but your own body language and training practices as well. 

Below are a few tips that any Lab owner can utilise when handling their pets:

1. Signals should be given to your Labs with one hand and arm only. In the earliest stages you may exaggerate the signals to gain the dog's attention, but in the final analysis all signals must be given smoothly and swiftly without any excess body motion. The size of your Lab is not a significant factor here, for you can train any dog to pay attention, and if he is paying attention to you he will see your signals.  The people who would disagree with this theory are those who have yet to learn how to make their dogs pay attention to them. You will have to watch yourself very carefully to avoid giving unintentional body signals to your dog. It is natural for a beginner to nod his head, lean forward, or move his hands when he calls his Lab. He is so intent in watching his dog that he is unaware of his own actions. Have someone watch you so he can tell you when he notices you doing this. 2. Be consistent - never scold your Lab for a misdemeanor one day and praise him the next for the same act. You cannot expect your dog to understand an exercise if you keep changing your training methods each time you try it. Labradors learn the basic work by repetition, and the entire training program should proceed smoothly and consistently. For instance, the techniques that you will use in puppy training will be repeated in advanced exercises when your Lab gets older, and your handling will be just the same. 3. You should study your Lab so you can foresee his reaction to any situation. You should become attuned to your dog's sensitivities. If you have a gentle, quiet Lab, do not antagonize him by rough treatment. He will become very alert and responsive if you train him in a calm and gentle manner with consideration for his feelings. Aggressive or overly playful dogs need a more forceful approach. 

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Acupuncture for a Lab and a Bloodhound

Acupuncture is a non-painful procedure to stimulate healing and pain-relief without drugs. It is used extensively in veterinary practices throughout the UK, Europe, Australia and the USA. Dogs, cats and horses have all benefited from its gentle healing effects and here we bring you an insight into how and why its popularity is on the rise amongst pet owners. Musculo-skeletal problems are most commonly treated using acupuncture. Arthritis, back and neck pain, lameness and post operative recovery can all respond. In my practice I most commonly treat GSDs and Labs with hip arthritis due to hip dysplasia, elbow arthritis due to elbow dysplasia and all three conditions due to wear and tear in older dogs. Incontinence in bitches and sinusitis with nasal discharge can often be helped, too, so its not just joints we need to be thinking about. 

  I'm currently seeing a fantastic 12 month old lab chocolate Lab called Dave. He was discovered to have pretty severe hip dysplasia at six months old. We are using acupuncture and osteopathy to get him through to about 15 months old when he needs to have both hips replaced. The combination of needles and osteopathy is allowing minimal use of Metacam. After starting on acupuncture he has gone from being a whiney puppy who didn't want to do anything but sit and lie around to being pretty much a normal puppy (apart from having to be kept on the lead to protect him from running around like a loony)!

Bartholomew is a different kettle of fish. He is a nine year-old Bloodhound whose hips and elbows become sore periodically. His owners are very good at spotting if it's his elbows or hips that are bothering him. After four weekly sessions he was much brighter and able to romp around like he hadn't before. Now, they bring him in for a top-up session every so often and he's doing well. He's been saved from a life of pain-killers by using the needles.

  We place short ultra-fine needles in specific areas we know as acupuncture points. These are small points on the skin that bear an especially good nerve supply. Stimulating the area with needles causes reflex impulses to move up to the spinal cord to change the operation of pain and inflammatory modulators in the spine. Signals are then sent to the brain and back to the affected area to affect inflammation, pain perception and promote healing.

Acupuncture has been used in the East for thousands of years. The Traditional Chinese Medicine model talks of energy called Qi (pronounced 'chee' - like cheese without the 'z' sound) which flows around the body in meridians or channels. Trauma, excessive heat, cold or damp, for example, cause disruption of the flow of Qi. Stagnation of the flow then leads to disease in that joint or organ. It's a bit like traffic flowing round the Uk on motorways; roadworks cause backlogs and jams and result in chaos.

  Needles act like the traffic police - they arrive at the cause of the problem, sort the problem and allow normal flow of traffic to flow again. Normal flow of Qi maintains healthy joints and organs leading to improved health.

Overall I would advise the use of acupuncture wherever we see any focus of joint pain; neck, back or leg pain especially. Conventional vets have only really got drugs like Metacam or Rimadyl to use, so if they see a dog with stiffness due to arthritis, that's all they can bring into play to help. If they can refer you to a veterinary acupuncturist you have another treatment avenue open to you.

  Your arthritic dog may well need drugs, but it may be possible to delay their use until much later in their life. Acupuncture can be used as a half way point between drugs and surgery - where drugs are not helping a problem, but surgery is not desirable because of age or condition of the dog. Again - acupuncture gives you options. 

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10 Activities To Get Fit With Your Dog

Sniff ‘n’ Seek

Add an element of problem solving to normal fetching games by hiding a toy or treat either in the open outdoors or at home in the garden. Two people are needed if playing in the fields, one to hold the dog whilst the other hides. Choose the hiding spot carefully so that your dog doesn’t injure themselves whilst searching. Equipment needed: Dog’s favourite toy/treat and hiding place.

Frisbee

Teaching your dog to catch and fetch a flying disc is very enjoyable and inexpensive. Simply stand in one spot of an open field or park and watch while your dog exercises every muscle in their body whilst having fun. A little encouragement might be needed to begin with such as racing your dog to the Frisbee. Equipment needed: Fling-a-Ring or Fantasy Flyer.

Fun In The Water

Swimming is an excellent form of exercise for everyone including our dogs. Incorporate swimming with fetching items such as balls and toys out of the water to keep it interesting for your dog. Always keep an avid eye on them throughout. Equipment needed: Water-proof dog toys (Kong Float, Disc-o-Dog, Crufts Soft Football, Air Kong Fetch Stick) and water (paddling pool of at least a foot deep dependent on size of dog or outdoor streams, ponds and lakes).

Cross-Training

Running is excellent for the cardiovascular system of both human and dog. Begin with a slow walk, then increase the pace to a jog, finally to a sprint and then back down to a slow walk. By doing this, your dog gets the best of both, a workout for his heart and social time with a sniff on the slow walk. Equipment needed: Running trainers, a bag for drinking bowl, water and poop-a-scoops plus usual dog walking gear (collar/harness and lead).

Agility Course

An agility course is a test for both you and your dog. It keeps the dog’s senses sharp and the brain occupied as he tries to master each part. A little encouragement and patience might be needed to begin with as your dog gets comfortable with the equipment. Equipment needed: Agility starter kit

Yoga (Doga)

Yoga for canines is the latest American import to hit the UK. It combines the human version with dogs and is proven to calm even the most unruly of dogs Canine Yoga involves a variety of stretches and massages in a variety of different positions. Equipment needed: Doga, Yoga for Dogs Book (written by William Berloni and published by Chronicle Books.) Pet Pavilion in London also run classes.

Hiking

If you live in a particularly hilly area then take your dog for a more challenging walk and the new area to explore will leave them entertained. This can also be done in a forest where fallen tree trunks can be used to jump and balance on. Equipment needed: Running trainers, a bag for drinking bowl, water and poop-a-scoops plus usual dog walking gear (collar/harness and lead).

Bubble Buddy Fun

This fun and easy to use machine offers a different way to have fun with your dog. It encourages interaction as they try to chase and catch the scented bubbles around the garden. Equipment: Bubble Buddy – comes in Bacon and BBQ chicken flavours

Treatball Maze

If your dog is an avid fan of treatballs then liven it up with a maze set in your back garden. These can be set to as difficult or easy as you want and the fun can last for hours as long as the treats do! Equipment needed: Treatball, treats and maze boundaries (bricks, wood or weighted boxes for example.)

K9 Mini-Olympics

A true test of your dogs’ agility, power, tricks, brain and endurance. The K9 Mini-Olympics combines some of the activities already mentioned in this article and a few new ones. The Olympics can be played against other teams of friends and family together with their dogs. The different stages include: Sprint Fetch (fetching a ball thrown with a Chuck It! or a Ball-Stomper machine as quick as possible), Tricks (performing a variety of tricks including shaking paws and roll-over), Sniff ‘n’ Seek, Agility and finally the relay race (set out the course as in diagram and time how long it takes the teams to complete.) The team with the most point’s after all five rounds are the winners.

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Why do dogs bury bones?

As the dog evolved in the ancient world, life was hard on dogs. Dogs had to compete with other dogs and larger predators for their meals. If other predators found the dog’s food, the dog could lose their food, especially if the rival was larger than the dog. The dog had to develop a means to keep the food that it had caught and to have food around during scarce times.

For these reasons, dogs learned to bury their food, including bones. Predators naturally have a heightened sense of smell. This meant that early dogs had to hide their food from the noses of other predators, including other dogs. As a result, dogs buried their food after having a fast meal themselves. Later on, the dog could dig their food up and eat again.

Dogs also bury their food when they have a surplus of food. This insures that there is some food when the dog needs it during leaner times. Burying food to hide it from other predators and to keep for when there is a food shortage still occurs among dogs in the wild.

The food that is buried will stay at a cooler temperature than that which sits in the sun. The buried food is also less of a target for flies and insects, which would eat it. Burying food is practical for the dog.

Since your dog’s instinct to bury things is present and even very strong in some dogs, your pet may collect and bury more than just bones and food Dogs are also known to bury toys and their master’s items, whether this is in anticipation of hard times when all their toys are gone or the toy is so great that it must be hidden from other dogs is unknown.

Your dog will want to bury its bone or food in a secluded place, preferably near its den or your home. You can give and train your dog to use its own special place where it can bury food and bones, much like a child is given a sandbox in which to dig.

Even though a buried bone in the garden can make your unhappy, there is little that you can do to remove the digging instinct from your dog. It is normal for a dog to dig. Your dog’s tendency to bury items is a part of its instinct for self preservation.

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Labrador develops agoraphobia

, The word 'walk' is usually all it takes to trigger much tail-wagging and excited yelping, but not for one black labrador from Aberdeenshire.

Sam, a once curious one-year old lab pup has developed agoraphobia after being electrocuted whilst on his daily walk.

Owner Donna Simpson was walking the dog along a street near their home in Stonehaven on November 28 when he innocently sniffed a metal drain running across the pavement. 

According to Donna, he immediately 'shot up in the air' and 'went mental'. 

A vet prescribed medication for the dog to calm his shattered nerves, but poor Sam is still reluctant to leave the house six weeks on.

It emerged that the drain had an electric current running through it due to a faulty power line, which has since been rectified.

Agoraphobia - not just for humans

Like humans, dogs are also susceptible to a variety of emotional and psychological disorders. These can be triggered by numerous things, including bad experiences like Sam's, mistreatment, abandonment, neglect, medical conditions or circumstances during very early life which can lead to lifelong anxiety.

Agoraphobia is rare in canines, but more sensitive animals may develop a fear of new places and people, which can manifest itself in aggressive behaviour or barking.

The most common phobia in dogs is a fear of loud noises, including fireworks and thunderstorms.

  Owner/pet relaxation techniques may help some animals but your vet may recommend mild sedation during stress hotspots, such as New Year and Bonfire night.

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Picturing Your Dog Can Soothe Stress And Boost Productivity

Two related experiments have found that merely thinking about your dog can reduce your stress levels and make you more productive. So, basically…everyone who doesn’t have one should go out and get a dog right now.

According to the Scientific American, which reported on the experiments published in the Journal of Research in Personality:

Either the subject had a dog nearby, simply thought about a dog or, in the control group, had no dog involvement. In the first experiment, participants were asked to come up with a list of goals and assess their confidence in attaining them. Those who had their dog in the room or on their mind identified more goals and felt more self-confident about them than the control group. In the second experiment, subjects performed a distressing cognitive task while their blood pressure was assessed. Both dog groups had lower blood pressure during the task than the control group.

Good news, right? Not necessarily surprising, but kind of a win for animal lovers, I think. I work from home, so I spend a lot of time with my dog, I don’t know that having him around boosts my productivity per se, but being able to take a break and hang out with him for a few minutes definitely helps my stress levels.

Research has also shown that owning a dog can reduce depression, as well as boost your immune system, so there’s lots of health benefits of dogs. Clearly, the lesson here is to get yourself a dog if you don’t already have one (if you’re not animal averse or allergic, that is).

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What to do if your dog gets into a dog fight

Your dog might be your best friend, but it will also be best friends with anyone and everyone. Others however, may not be so friendly and come with a little bite!

Those who lack bite themselves, tend to breed dogs to have it for them, these people are called chavs. Aggressive dogs are a big problem in today’s society, they are on the rise, they are kept to intimidate, or in some cases, to take part in illegal dog fights.

A bit more rare, is that an otherwise laid back peaceful pup may suddenly turn. With the increase in dog breeding, particularly these status dogs and the lack of training and stimulus; there will be more and more sights of dog fights in the local parks and streets. So what does one do when your beloved animal is amongst it all. Only if you deem it essential, intervene, but follow these ideas- protecting yourself at all times:

Do not attempt to get into the middle of the dog fight. The animals are fighting for their lives, you will just be an object in the way and will most likely get bitten.

A quick burst of cold water, whether it be a bucket full or a quick hose down, this should shock the strongest of fighting instincts into stopping.

If water is not accessible, try to separate them with stick (not a flimsy twig), a large piece of wood or net. Keep hold of this object though, as you may need to use it again to fend the dog away from you.

If you’ve no water and no object to separate them with, try making a loud noise of some description, lots of short sounds would be better than one long- if you’ve got an airhorn or ref’s whistle, that might do, to distract them.

As a last resort and if there is someone there to help you, try the doggie wheelbarrow. Yes, just as you did at school, each of you chooses a dog, grabs from behind, their hind legs and lifts them in the air, leaving their front paws to walk along the ground. The dogs must be pulled away from each other, sweeping the doggie wheel barrow in a circular motion and you back away to give you maximum protection from the dog. Be careful trying this stunt; you will need to be aware that the dogs will probably return to fighting as soon as you let go and be sure that you aren’t at risk of being bitten yourself.

Once the fight has broken, it is wise to get the dogs as far away from each other as possible, perhaps into a car, into a garden or into a room of a house.

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Poison affects Jack Russells and other dogs

Poisoning should be a concern of every Jack Russell owner, as well as having other pets in the house. More often, pet poisoning is the result of someone's ignorance or carelessness. For example, your Jack Russell can get lead poisoning if he is allowed to chew on painted objects or to lick old paint cans laying around the garage. Perhaps you are cleaning and have been spraying for insects or small rodents with an agent that contains phosphorous. Several sniffs of this and your dog can develop serious phosphorous poisoning. If you are trying to get rid of rats and mice with a rodent poison, there is a fair chance that your pet might try a sample. When playing outside, your Jack Russell can nip the leaves of bushes that have been sprayed. Or, your cat may lick his paws and feet after running over an area that has been sprayed with insecticide. The family rubbish bin, an attractive proposition to Jack Russells, must also share a major load of the blame for pet poisoning. Usually, this is where your Jack Russellcan find old pills, powders, medicines, and decaying meat (most common form of sickness from rubbish bins). When Poisoning Is Suspected If you think your Jack Russell or other pet has been poisoned, call the vet immediately. If he asks you to induce vomiting, the usual emetics are hydrogen peroxide mixed with an equal amount of water; common table salt mixed with 2 teaspoons to a cup of warm water. Caution: Family remedies from home medicine cabinets are not suited for pets. Tonics that contain an amount of strychnine that has been proven beneficial to human beings are often extremely dangerous since dogs are highly sensitive to this drug. Pet poisoning can have a sudden, devastating effect on your pet when large doses are taken. Or, if ingested over a period of time, in small amounts, the poison will gradually weaken him. It is not difficult to tell when your dog has been poisoned. The signs are quite definite. He may be either nervous and excited or depressed. His symptoms may include trembling, vomiting, and convulsions. Your Jack Russell may also develop blue gums, cloudiness in the eyes, and blood-streaked diarrhoea. Depending upon the kind of poison ingested, one or more of these signs may be seen.

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Puppy Socialisation

Exposing your puppy to different kinds of environments and experiences is a very important step in his learning process.

In order to develop a healthy mental well-being, he needs to know that the world is a fun place to explore. This can only be achieved through proper and continuous socialisation. Socialisation is the process of preparing your puppy for healthy mental development by exposing him in a positive way to different sights, smells, and sounds. Socialisation also includes interaction with people, dogs and other animals, as well as other objects like moving cars. Taking your puppy to a training class is an excellent way to introduce him to a variety of experiences. However, socialising your puppy calls for much more than teaching him training skills.

Socialisation teaches your pet to interact with different situations, explore without fear, and get to know as much as he can about the world around him, thereby giving him a wholesome life. Preferably, socialization should begin in your puppy's first home. His breeder should introduce him, along with the rest of the litter, to a variety of stimuli from the moment they are born. For instance, the litter should be exposed to different bedding materials to get them used to different textures and surfaces. Objects like balls, squeaky toys, bubble wraps, plastic bags, and other items should be introduced slowly and often. This helps them approach new situations with confidence.

Below are a few examples of objects and situations that your pup should see and experience from the moment he opens his eyes:-

* The sounds of different appliances in the house.

*A trip to the vet.

*Going up and down the stairs.

*Meeting different people of different ages.

*Meeting other puppies and dogs (Keep puppy on your arms and under closed supervision).

*Meeting people using wheelchairs, walkers, and canes.

* Meeting people wearing hoods, hats, coats, and loud clothes.

* Watching children play.

* Watching small animals such as birds and squirrels (do not allow chasing).

* Riding in the car inside a crate with windows rolled up and then rolled down.

* Light traffic.

* Light crowds.

* A flying kite or balloons.

* Introduce the pup to different "odd" objects like plastic bags and lampposts.

* Experience different sights, sounds, and smells of different objects.

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Why does my Schnauzer never come when called?

From an early age, schnauzers can be taught this most simple of commands. The importance of this function can be clarified by any dog owner who has had a dog run off into traffic or some other dangerous situation when being called back. The quality of your relationship will depend on the trust you have in your schnauzer to return to you when commanding them to do so, otherwise you will find yourself being fearful to let your dog run free, whether in the garden, at the park or anywhere where there is enough space to necessitate the command to return to you.

The most common reasons for a schnauzer not coming when called centre around early experiences associated with the command. Establishing leadership is essential to ensuring that your dog will return promptly on command, whatever the temptation to do otherwise. Your response to a disobedient reaction to this command can be the difference between a long and arduous campaign to assure the dog it is in his/her interests to return, or a rather more simple series of sessions demonstrating practically the benefits to him/her of returning when called.

Take this common scenario as an example of what not to do, no matter how frustrated you may get.

Upon receiving the ‘return’ command, the dog not only fails to return promptly but continues what he is doing until he decides he wants to return. Eventually he returns of his own accord. At this point it is easy and very tempting to punish the dog for his disobedience. A firm tug when the lead is on, or a verbal reprimand may, at this point, seem like appropriate measures to take. However, it is at this point that the dog has actually demonstrated the desired behaviour, he has returned. Punishing him now will engender a negative association with returning to you. You will effectively be teaching your dog not to come when called.

The safest environment to begin your campaign to have your dog return when called is in your home. It does not matter if the need for this command never arises in the home, the aim is to make your dog want, more than anything else that could possibly tempt him/her, to return to you upon your command.

In your back garden or house, put the dog on an extendable leash. Designate a distance you will allow him/her to wander before you correct him/her. Allow him/her to go, and then firmly and confidently call his/her name followed by whichever command you intend to use. (It is essential that you are consistent with which command you use. Whether it is ‘come’ or ‘here’, only use one command for one function to avoid confusion. The word ‘come’ contains hard consonant sounds and is more easily distinguishable. The intonation of your command should always remain the same too.) Do not repeat your command over and over, give the dog an amount of time to react to your command (this amount of time should be reduced as he becomes more responsive.)

Just before your dog hits the designated distance you have set out, administer the command. If he/she fails to return, your lead will prevent him/her going any further. At any point that he/she does return, reward him/her with praise and a treat. Make him/her associate returning on your command with reward.

Remember that during the early stages of these exercises, the freedom he/she has by not returning can be used as a reward. In a safe environment such as your back garden, reward him/her by allowing him/her to wander away after he/she has returned and then continue to practice the command.

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Separation Anxiety

It's a real problem for a lot of dogs and gives their owners problems too -  separation anxiety.

  Does this sound like you and your dog? You've had him since he was a puppy. He is a sweet dog, eager to please, and enjoys being around you and your whole family.  But lately, you've notice that he's become destructive around the house whenever he's left alone, even for just a few hours. You come home and the house looks like it was hit by a tornado - papers scattered everywhere, the trash can was knocked down, and your clothes were chewed into shreds. Your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety, a problem common with many puppies and dogs. Separation anxiety is a panic disorder exhibited by a dog in the absence of his owner. It is the fear of being left alone that results in unwanted, destructive behaviors.  Dogs are social creatures. As puppies it is natural for them to get dependent and attached to their mother and littermates. This type of attachment is transferred on to you, his owner, when the puppy enters your life. This attachment results in distress whenever the dog is left alone in the house, which is the most common cause of separation anxiety. Signs Of Separation Anxiety Your dog could be suffering from separation anxiety if he displays any of the following signs: Destructiveness; excessive crying, barking, howling, whining, house soiling, pacing, depression, self mutilation, excessive salivation, hyperactivity, and scratching or chewing at walls, doors, windows, furniture, and other objects when you're not with him.

  But how would you know if you weren't with him?

  Sometimes it's good to try and find a vantage point to observe how your dog behaves when you're not there, somewhere where you can see him but he can't see you. It might just blow your mind how your dog behaves when he thinks you've gone.

Causes Of Separation Anxiety There are many causes for separation anxiety in dogs. Some were developed with experiences they had before the dog ever became part of your family, such as loss or abandonment of previous owner.  Below are six other causes of separation anxiety in dogs: 1. A traumatic experience such as an injury, thunderstorm, or an alarm system going off that happened while you were gone. 2. A loss or addition of a family member. 3. Premature separation from its mother and littermates. 4. Having a new pet in the house and spending a lot of time with that new pet and less time with him.  5. A sudden change in schedule, lifestyle, or environment. 6. Changes that occur in older dogs, both physiologically and mentally, that results from ageing.

  All of these things can cause or intensify feelings of stress and anxiety in many dogs. They can manifest in many different ways but one of the most common is separation anxiety.

  So, how do we improve our dog's confidence and help them to relax when we're not there?

  As we've already touched on, separation anxiety occurs when dogs feel frightened and distressed at the absence of their owner. This type of attachment problem can be mild or severe. A mild case is often exhibited when the dog is pacing, over-grooming, and panting, whereas a severe case of separation anxiety can be quite a challenge for the owner. The dog soils the house, cries nonstop, barks or howls, and destroys furniture and other objects around the house. Often times, the dog starts to show behaviours associated with separation anxiety after being left alone for only ten or fifteen minutes.  Here are five tips that can help. 1. Some dogs feel comfortable being confined to a smaller space such as a crate or a small gated area of the house, while others feel comfortable when in a kennel outdoors (it really depends on the individual dog but it is something you should be aware of) If your dog starts to feel agitated when crated, take him out and do not try to force it because it can only make matters worse. If your dog takes well to the crate, you could have found a quick, easy solution to the problem. 2. In some cases, confining your dog to a small area where he has viewing access to the outside world is enough to make him feel comfortable and eliminate separation anxiety. You can place his crate or bed in front of a sliding glass door or a clear window. Unhelpfully, having a view of the outside world can make some dogs even worse! Again, it's time for testing.

  3. Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety because of boredom. Find a job that your dog can do. Teach him how to play "Find it" - a game that he can play by himself. To play this game, you must hide his favorite bones or stuffed treats where he can find them. To keep him busy, use three or five bones or treats (depending on how long you'll be gone). Here's a really quick tip that has a very high success rate, I do it with my dogs: Get some sugarfree sugar puffs (sounds like a contradiction but trust me, they exist and you don't want your dog getting fat). Create a routine about when you're going out so your dog understands what's going on - it will help them if they are confused and expect you may have gone out for a moment or two and may have forgoten them. As you are leaving, grab a fistful of sugar free sugar puffs and start to scatter them in the area where the dog will be staying, encourage them to hunt and find, scatter them far and wide and if you have a dog who likes hunting for treats, this action will not only keep them busy but it can also become your 'signal' that you are going out for a while. After a short period, the dog will associate your going out with them getting a hunting game and, in many cases, they'll start to actually get excited about you leaving!

4. Another way to fight boredom is to provide your dog with plenty of toys. Rotate the toys so he will not get tired of playing with them. Playing, chewing, chasing, and hunting for his toys or treats has the power to cause your dog utilize his natural canine instincts while keeping him occupied for hours. 5. Leave the television on or play a soft, relaxing music. Researches have shown that soft, classical music relaxes dogs. Pick something that you listen to when you are at home, so your pet doesn't relate the music to your absence. Background noise can help to disguise any sounds from the outside world which may startle your dog or disturb them, causing them to bark or get stressed.