[wzreflective]

Assembled figure. I think the outcome is good and I learnt a lot throughout the project - from my materials preference to favourite parts of the projects.

It does not pose as well as I had hoped for it to - this is due o the joints not matching after the resin has been cast. Not too sure how that happened, though.

The head is very poseable, though, which I am very happy with.

[wzreflective]

Ordered this wig over a week ago now with 48hr shipping. The item was and is in stock. Been told it’ll be posted within 2 days. Order is still ‘being processed’. I guess not, then. 

[wzreflective]

[kissedbymorpheus]

Mythology : Amaterasu ☀ [Goddess of the sun ]

[wzreflective]

Amaterasu mood board

[daphnaea]

the gods in new colors: amaterasu + sky blue

You illuminate my days

[wzreflective]

sun themed mood board inspired by Amaterasu - the Japanese Sun Goddess 

[nihongokawaii]

📕   たいよう   📙   Taiyō   📒   Sun   📗   Sol   📘   太陽

[wzreflective]

While casting resin multiple times, there are a few things I have learnt, noticed, and considered:

colour Part B of resin before mixing both parts. This way you get time to mix the right colour. As well as this, you can mix a bigger batch of the colour, so that all parts match

resin can still be moved before it’s fully cured - the hands can be taken out of the mould and moved into different positions

some of the parts came out with holes that would need filling - in the future I’d consider having TRANSLUCENT silicone moulds so I can see what is being filled

[whenanerdfindsjapan]

So Japan has a pretty strong rainy season from the beginning of June to about the middle of July. From what I’ve experienced, it’s not very harsh rain. Most days it’s just a bit of spotty drizzling, but enough to ruin a planned day out. I just recently learned about these little things called “teru teru bozu”, which I think are the most adorable little guys in the whole world. They are small little talismans made by children out of tissue paper or small cloths and hung outside to ward off the rain the following day. I wasn’t able to snap a good picture of one, so I found one on Google to share with you. To me, the idea of making these little ghost looking things in order to protect your picnic fun the next day is just so pure and sweet. My host sisters didn’t seem to thrilled by them but I was so ecstatic to learn about this little tidbit of Japanese culture. Which is the thing, right? When it’s your culture, you’re not impressed, but when it’s someone else’s you can’t believe how incredible it is.

[pistachoochoo]

Teru Teru Bozu

Teru Teru Bozu, a cute traditional handmade doll that Japanese farmers hang outside their window. This little amulet is believed to have magical powers to bring good weather and stop/prevent rain. When hung upside down it can also act as a prayer for rain.

Here’s a simple tutorial on how to make your own Teru Teru Bozu.

1.Select your materials

  2.Decorate the edges of the cloth with decorative tapes.

3. Snip a small slit in the middle of your cloth.

  4.Make a loop with baker’s twine/any thread and string it though the slit. Tie a knot at the end.

5.Place a ball of fillings on the center of cloth and wrap up tightly. Tighten with a ribbon.

6.Draw your Teru Teru Bozu face with fabric markers. Make it a happy one!

  7. All done and ready to be hung up by the window!

    if you have more time…

Try different tape combinations to decorate your cloth.

Make more to increase the power!

Remember to hang it upside down if you want it to rain!!!

[wzreflective]

Since the character I’m designing is the son of the god of the sun, it’s natural sunny weather would be preferred. Perhaps Teru Teru Bouzu could be his minions or so?

[gqandw]

خورشید در نگاه تو ، تکرار می شود The sun repeats itself in your eyes

Qahar Aasi (via gqandw)

[wearepaladin]

steampunk astrolabe by Davison Carvalho

[wzreflective]

Just... the colour-scheme

[thegoodvybe]

[wzreflective]

quote that inspires my character design

[wzreflective]

3d printing the head worked out rather well for me! I used the ‘normal’ settings, so some layers are still visible, but I’m confident choosing ‘super-fine’ would create a completely smooth finish. It’s not a problem, though as it can be filled in, moulded and cast anyway.

I would consider 3d printing a whole figure in the future - creating joints etc. would be much easier. As well as this, only one side of the body would need to be sculpted in Blender, as the program automatically mirrors it.

[ira-scargeear]

Soom Idealian body modifications tutorial I tend to mod a lot. I’m VERY picky when it comes to posability of my dolls. Here’s the result.

Full image on Deviantart: http://img05.deviantart.net/5e30/i/2015/131/8/a/soom_idealian_body_modifications_tutorial_by_scargeear-d8t0i6f.jpg?1

[wzreflective]

Body parts sculpting. I enjoyed using chavant, as it was easy to modify but hard enough not to deform easily.

It was difficult to keep it smooth though, as well as attach the wooden balls for the joins. It was also a little bit tricky to ensure the negatives of the ball joints were round and housing them well.

In the future, I’d like to use epoxy or polyester putty instead.

[nojillnolife]

[suddenlysomewherethatsgreen]

Look at this! Look at this fucking thing! This was done in 1986, and used absolutely no CGI whatsoever. It was ALL practical, and ALL done through puppetry. Look at the last gif. Over a dozen vines are moving at once along with its head, lips, and tongue! In interviews Rick Moranis has stated he often forgot he was working with a puppet, as opposed to a really ugly guy. Even today it looks so real. Audrey ii is nothing short of miraculous

[diamogeddon-likes]

IM SORRY WHAT

[imtoobiforyou]

WHAT

[midnightsylph1]

It took over 60 puppeteers to operate Audrey II’s final form in the film. You can read more about the puppet’s creation and operation here.

[inthenameofpeacewemakewar-deact]

The practical effects of Little Shop of Horrors was fucking astounding.  It’s worth it to mention that, in the scenes where the plant is moving, the filming was slowed to 12 to 16 frames a second, so that the film could be sped up to give the Audrey II a more lifelike appearance.  In such scenes where actors like Rick Moranis had to speak with the plant, he had to mouth his lines at a slower-than-normal speed while still looking convincing, only to have his voice added in post. 

It’s also worth mentioning that a crew of 60+ puppeteers were needed to operate the plant, as the entire puppet weighed over a ton. 

[wzreflective]

Model Making Workshop with Jack Pratt

“If you paint it right, nobody will know”

Model Making Workshop with Jack Pratt

Stop motion - see The Little Prince

Anomalisa - realistic model making

Aardman

Laika

Scratch Building:

Balsa wood: Easy to stain. Use wet’n’dry sandpaper to take fibre away from the surface. Coarser paper to take 2mm of surface off, to take away any resin residue etc. so it’s stained evenly. It warps, so be careful, build braces and layer it. Large grain.

Obeche wood: nice alternative. Smaller grain. Better for scale furniture. Takes stain well. Doesn’t warp as much. It’s denser.

Wood panelling making: stain wood, cut up, then jumble up.

Styrene: Big architectural models. Score surface and snap it. Real cheap for sheets. Use Plastic weld or Tamiya Cement. Glue flows underneath and melts the surface, essentially welding it together. There are no blobs of glue left behind, clean finish. Re-use the same brush, it’ll go soft again when you dip it back in the plastic weld. You can make moulds from it, it’s fine with silicone etc. Sand paper for fine wood texture. If sanding, you’ll get fibres, use steel wool to get rid of them.

Kapa foam: Peel off the paper (BUT keep it for slate or stonework - creased paper makes a great texture for that and can be cut to shape). Make larger scale wood texture with a wire brush. Cover with a layer of PVA or sealer before painting, otherwise, it will just eat your paint as it’s very absorbent. Use wood glue with it.

Large scale brickwork - use filler, use thin tape to mark grooves, slap on the filler, then peel the tape away while the filler is still wet so it doesn’t chip away.

Filler and toothbrush - make terrain with

smear filler onto the base, sand down = cement

Corrugated metal - double up tinfoil, glue down cocktail sticks to your material, place tinfoil over it and brush along the sticks with a toothbrush

Water waves - use gloss varnish for small, silicone sealant for large waves. hot glue can be used and shaped with the glue gun’s hot nozzle

Kit Bashing: Always consider using junk first

Lé Painting Effects

Always prime styrene before painting

Airbrush (a mini airbrush cleaning station with paint thinner makes life much easier. that way you only need to take it apart to clean at the end of the day but not between jobs)

Use cinnamon to make rust - cinnamon + pva, the more cinnamon the more grained the texture

Peeling/Chipping paint effect: Apply hairspray on top of the model, let dry, airbrush on top, let dry. Get a cotton bud (use cloth for a bigger surface) with thinner and lift it.

OR sprinkle salt over, apply water, let dry. Airbrush over. Chip salt away.

Washes emphasise the shadows in the model. Vallejo Washes are a good brand. Round tip brush is ideal. Apply thinner on clothe and go over the paint, this will leave the paint in the deep areas.

Dry Brushing - flat end brush. Brings out highlight. Remove as much paint as you can from the brush.

Weathering powders - you can use chalk pastels instead. Apply with a cotton bud. Seal with varnish.

Tools to get:

Gyro cutter

Scribing tool - it takes the material away, rather than creating an edge

Dremel

Short bladed razor saw

Tube cutter

Small hand drill that doesn’t require power

mini clamps

proper mask - 3M

3D PRinting:

PLA material, ice, 2.85 mm width

Always prime a 3d print before painting

xtc-3d resin can be used to smooth all the layer strips out. But it will get rid of very fine detail. But you can sand them.

Alternatively, you can make a silicone mould of the print and cast it in resin, this will smooth it out too

perhaps don’t use acetone, because it eats away at your model

smooth on 20T silicone is good for small moulds, goes off in half an hr

.obj or .stl file