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The Year of Superb Coffee has been delicious. I have sipped and gulped hundreds of beautifully aromatic and deeply flavorful specialty coffees from dozens of top roasters across America and around the world. The year also has been fascinating. I have visited vibrant cafés and bars from Los Angeles, California, to Florence, Italy; I have pored over multiple trade magazines and websites; I have watched thoughtful and insightful documentaries; I have attended the specialty coffee industry’s largest annual convention; and I have interviewed globally renowned experts from London to Chicago. I have learned about production and processing, as well as geography, history, economics, politics and more. Throughout these experiences, coffee has proven supremely complex. Even learning how to make a cup of filtered or “pour-over” coffee—meaning to produce it properly, with palate-pleasing precision—has been a lab or a lesson extending across months. All this said, my year-long blog has reached its conclusion. Yet, my keen interest in fine coffee continues. So, please keep your eyes open for a new blog or a website or a few business stories written from my upcoming research into the fincas and factories (or very specific, single-origin sites) that now feature on the labels of the world’s best specialty coffee. There is so much to learn.

Surafel Birhanu and his family manage the Kebel Aricha coffee washing station just outside the town of Yirgacheffe, in the Gedeo zone of southern Ethiopia. Approximately 700 local farmers each cultivate two hectares (4.5 acres) of coffee trees, and they bring their harvested cherries here for sorting and drying on raised beds. The results are predictably pleasing, making this mill a perennial favorite among many roasters. Courier Coffee was established in Portland, Oregon, in 2005. Founder Joel Domreis roasts single-origin beans in very small batches, and he delivers them daily to local customers—by bicycle. (Really.) His cozy café on SW Oak (near Powell’s Books) conveys the simple spirit of his business. There are just a few seats where locals nurse pour-overs amid the smell of freshly baked goodies and the groovy sounds of a turntable playing vintage vinyl. It’s very Portland, and truly a treat. In my cup, this heirloom blend bursts with the rich aromas and flavors of black cherry, dried strawberry, hazelnut, and dark chocolate. It is smooth-textured, and much more full-bodied and powerful than I would have expected. At the same time, it makes delicious sipping during these darkest days of the year. ($14 / 12 oz)

#couriercoffeeroasters

La Guamera is a coffee farm near the town of Chinchiná, in the Caldas department of western Colombia. The Muñoz family began work here in 1986 with just seven hectares (17 acres), a sod hut, a few banana trees, and no electricity. They expanded their holding, added a processing mill, and began selling the coffee harvests of several neighbors. Today, the family's six siblings operate Compañia Cafetera La Meseta—one of Colombia's largest coffee exporters. LIPPE coffee was established in Oslo, Norway, in 2008. Owners Pia and Alexander von der Lippe started the brand as an extension of their successful espresso machine business—called Temperato. Head roaster Erik Niklas Ivrig Kaisen says that LIPPE seeks batches of beans with well-defined flavors; and they roast as lightly as possible in order to highlight the special characteristics of the origin or source. But they also keep the market in mind. For example, with this "Julekaffe" or Christmas coffee, Erik says, “We are always looking for a fresh crop. And La Guamera was harvested in July, so it's perfect for December consumption. We're also looking for something that everyone will enjoy—as we are reaching more people during Christmas. So Kenyan and Ethiopian coffees might be a little too fruity and juicy for grandma, but a sweet and chocolatey Colombia will do just fine. Hopefully, we are recruiting more people to specialty coffee!" LIPPE sells only domestically right now, but serious cafés around the world should feel free to contact them. In my cup, this blend of Castillo and Colombia varieties shows aromas and flavors of red grape, apple, walnut, and cocoa. It is medium-bodied, smooth-textured, and—as Erik says—it's a complete treat for the end-of-year holidays. (250g / NOK84.28 / US$9.75)

#lippekaffe CoffeeLaMeseta

Hanna Neuschwander is the communications and marketing director for World Coffee Research, a nonprofit organization devoted to improving both global coffee quality and the livelihoods of the people who produce it. She also writes about coffee for magazines including Travel + Leisure, Portland Monthly, and Barista. As well, she is a speaker about key issues in the coffee industry, including at the most recent Specialty Coffee Association of America convention in Seattle. Among all this impressive work, Neuschwander is the author of Left Coast Roast—a delightful guide to many of the best specialty coffee brands situated between San Francisco and Seattle. It’s a pleasing paperback that celebrates more than 50 labels to look for from the heart of America’s specialty coffee scene. Each one receives a very brief, very readable profile with some character-filled company history and a handy chart of vital stats. Neuschwander also includes a fine primer on the language of coffee, the basics of coffee cultivation and processing, as well as the principles of home roasting and brewing. This is a beautiful book; and it would be superb to see a sequel, since its 2012 publication antedates several recent regional roasters who merit a mention. ($16.95 / 294 pages)

#hneuschwander

Finca Campo Amor is one of three farms operated by the Escobar family near the town of Fredonia, in the Cauca River Valley of northwestern Colombia. Palmero Selecto is a block or “lot” of Castillo and Colombia variety coffees grown here at more than 5,000 feet of elevation. (The Escobar clan manages a total of five farms in Colombia, as well as three estates in east Africa. Additionally, two of the family principals live in Portland, Oregon, for part of each year—which makes connections with top Pacific Northwest roasters almost a given.) Herkimer Coffee was established in Seattle, Washington, in 2003. Chief roaster and co-owner Scott Richardson joined in 2007, after a couple of years at espresso machine manufacturer La Marzocco and a decade at pioneering Seattle roaster Caffe Vita. Richardson believes in direct relationships with the people who cultivate his offerings. For example, he has visited Campo Amor himself within the past six months. In my cup, this varietal blend shows rich aromas and flavors of black cherries, cream, cola, and even a little loam. It is medium- to full-bodied with smooth texture and a fresh, citrus finish. ($12.80 / 12oz)

#herkimercoffee

Sasaba is a coffee washing station in the Guji zone of southern Ethiopia’s Oromia region. A small processing facility, it serves local farmers who each cultivate fewer than 20 coffee trees on little plots where they also grow subsistence crops like maize and peas. The scale of their work here is meager, but the reputation of their output is significant: Sasaba coffees are exported and appreciated around the world. Love Coffee Roasters was established in Lund, Sweden, in 2010. Founders Daniel Remheden and Peter Frennhoff are well-known names on the Scandinavian coffee scene. Frenhoff helped the Swedish national team to win the very competitive Nordic Barista Cup competition in 2007. Then Remheden won the 2008 Swedish barista championship, before finishing fourth at the World Barista Championship. Consequently, the coffee they craft at Love is seriously seducing. In my cup, this heirloom varietal blend offers aromas and flavors of dried strawberries, blueberries, and a dusting of cocoa. It is medium-bodied with a smooth texture—and truly lovely! (SEK120 / $13.80 / 250g)

#LCRoasters

Reko is a washing station near the town of Chelelektu in the Kochere region of southern Ethiopia. This processing facility serves 850 farmers who cultivate native, heirloom variety coffee plants on tiny plots (2 acres or less) in the surrounding hills—at 6,500 feet of elevation. Reko came to the attention of the artisan coffee world just over a decade ago, and its high-quality beans now supply many top craft companies, including George Howell in Massachusetts, Madcap in Michigan, Sweet Bloom in Denver, and Kuma in Seattle. Ruby Coffee Roasters was established by Jared Linzmeier in 2013. He started his career in caffeine, six years earlier, at the incubator-like Silver Lake location of Intelligentsia in Los Angeles. In 2011, he moved to Seattle to become director of coffee at Caffe Ladro. On the heels of enormous professional growth there, he returned to his roots in central Wisconsin to set up Ruby—named after his grandmother. His project may be far off the beaten path, but Linzmeier is generating plenty of buzz among the specialty coffee cognoscenti. In my cup, this coffee offers aromas and flavors of ginger snaps and rose petals with a sweet note of tropical fruits. It is light- to medium-bodied with a silky texture. ($18.25 / 12 oz)

#rubyroasters

Seattle Coffee Gear was established just north of its namesake city, in suburban Lynnwood, Washington, in 2005. Founder Victor Gehlen sought simply to equip consumers with tools to make superb coffee at home. Doing so turned his business into a leading regional source of grinders, scales, pour-over devices, espresso machines, and countless accessories. There are now three locations, offering very helpful staff, expert repair services, free shipping, and more. In the “more” category, Seattle Coffee Gear (SCG) revealed a new fixture at its flagship store on this rainy autumn weekend. Labeled The Wall, it’s an attractive array of 35 different coffees from top specialty roasters. Brands range from local stars like Slate and Olympia to well-known national names like Intelligentsia and La Colombe. Beneath the shelves displaying bags for retail sale, each featured coffee has a batch of freshly roasted beans in its own dedicated burr grinder. Customers are encouraged grab tiny Kalita pour-over brewers, press a button to grind small (10g) samples of any coffees that catch their interest, and a member of store staff will make complimentary three-ounce pour-over cups for them to sip on site. It’s a wonderful way for consumers to discover new roasters; and it’s further confirmation that SCG is a truly great resource for craft coffee enthusiasts in America’s Pacific Northwest.

#seacoffeegear

Francisco Esteban Mejia is a farmer in Ocotepeque, a region of beautiful green mountains in western Honduras—right on the border with both El Salvador and Guatemala. Mejia's small property is called Los Izotes, the name of a local palm tree species. He acquired the land 15 years ago and started cultivating red and yellow Catuai variety coffee plants—intermixed with lemon and orange trees for both shading and better soil health. Across more than a decade, he sold his crop to the regional, 300-member coffee cooperative known as COCAFELOL. But for the past three years, Mejia has been working with direct trade partners to secure more financial stability for his family and his 10 employees. Dogwood Coffee is a roaster and retailer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Founders Greg Hoyt and Dan Anderson established their business in 2010, and they are sincerely focused on promoting the quality of thoughtfully sourced, finely roasted, single-origin beans. Hoyt and Anderson now operate a couple of cafes in Minneapolis, and they supply wholesale accounts and retail mail-order customers across the U.S. Most recently, they have expanded into Canada with a location in Winnipeg, Manitoba. In my cup, this coffee offers aromas and flavors of stone fruits, black tea leaf, and cocoa. It is medium-bodied and smooth-textured, and it shows a splash of citrus freshness at the finish. ($17.50 / 12 oz)

#dogwoodcoffee

Gatubu is a "factory" or coffee processing station in the hills of the Aberdare Range in southwestern Kenya. Established in 1965 to serve the Iyego Farmers' Cooperative Society, the Gatubu station is now one of nine local factories supporting almost 8,000 smallholders. Typical farmers here are men in their 40s or 50s who own fewer than five acres of land. They harvest less than a thousand pounds of coffee each year, alongside dairy production and French bean cultivation—all of which earns them the annual equivalent of $2,000. Despite such meager returns, these people grow some of the finest coffee in the world. Jacu Coffee is a tiny roaster and café established in Alesund, Norway, in early 2011. Founder Anne Birte Bjørdal Hanken and her husband Oliver started their business (with partner Gunnar Lillevold) after returning to her hometown following 12 years in Oslo. Recognition for their work came quickly: Jacu won the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe's Innovation Prize in 2013, at almost the same time their company received an award for excellence from the Norwegian Design Council. Jacu now sells it selectively sourced and rigorously roasted beans to dozens of wholesale customers across Norway. At the same time, this little brand from a little town on the coast of the Norwegian Sea is generating a keen following around the artisan coffee world. In my cup, this varietal blend of SL28, SL34, and Ruiru displays appealing aromas of raspberry, apricot, and caramel. It is medium-bodied, smooth textured, and finishes with grapefruit-laced freshness. Truly delicious! (NOK140 / $16.35 / 250g)

#jacucoffee

La Esperanza is an 88-hectare (217-acre) farm near the town of Chalchuapa in westernmost El Salvador. It is one of eleven estates operated by the regionally renowned Pacas family, and it is devoted exclusively to the Bourbon variety of coffee—apart from 24 acres at the pinnacle of the property, which are left as wild forest to support local biodiversity. Coava Coffee Roasters was established in Portland, Oregon, in 2008. Matt Higgins and his team are extremely committed to the ideals of the specialty coffee movement. They do not offer any blends, only single-origin selections that display the names of the farmers and co-ops with whom they partner. They also operate one of the coolest cafés on the West Coast—a bright warehouse space with beautiful bamboo fixtures set on polished concrete and accented by repurposed industrial equipment. In my cup, this varietal displays rich aromas of dried cherries, graham crackers and milk chocolate. It also presents medium- to full-body and a very smooth texture. You’ll want a second serving immediately after the first sip. ($15 / 250g)

#coavacoffee

Wahana is a 500-hectare (1,200-acre) estate in the North Sumatra province of Indonesia. Half of this large holding is devoted to coffee cultivation—including interesting local hybrids such as Rasuna, Andong Sari, and Jantung. All of these plantings are perfectly spaced and growing in the shade of lush Lamtoro trees. Wahana Estate also is an important local employer, supporting nearly a thousand workers with free housing, electricity, drinking water, healthcare, as well as a nursery and kindergarten for their children. Cartel Coffee Lab is a small roaster and retailer established in Phoenix, Arizona, in early 2008. Founder Jason Silberschlag and his wife started their business with one cafe in Tempe, but they succeeded immediately and have grown to six locations around the state—with happy wholesale customers and mail-order fans all across the country. In my cup, this Rasuna varietal bursts with aromas of ripe strawberry, blueberry, and sweet notes of pipe tobacco. It is medium-bodied, smooth textured, and lifts to a juicy, fresh finish. Superb sipping! ($19 / 12 oz)

#cartelcoffeelab

Gastown is a charming shopping and dining district in vibrant Vancouver, British Columbia. Locals and tourists from around the world blissfully browse and graze among its boutiques and bistros. For those seeking reinforcement amid all the retail and restaurant ruckus, there is a local coffee oasis called Revolver. George Giannakos and his family opened this multi-roaster café in 2011, and it has been a success from the start. The space is narrow and deep, with only a few small booths running parallel to the sleek brew bar. Fortunately, a large annex next door—called the Archive—offers communal tables and plenty of room to sip and gab with a group (as well as a remarkable collection of home-brewing equipment and coffee-focused books for sale). Back on the business side of the operation, expert staff craft a superb selection of poured and pulled libations featuring a broad array of first-rate roasters. The list includes Canada’s own Phil & Sebastian as well as Berlin, Germany’s The Barn and Portland, Oregon’s Heart. If Revolver seems busy at all times, there are multiple good reasons.

#revolver_coffee

Karagoto is a “factory” or coffee processing station located near the town of Karatina in central Kenya. It forms part of the Tekangu Farmers Cooperative Society in the Nyeri region. This washing station is supported by a thousand smallholders whose excellent crop management techniques and superb harvests have developed a reputation for supreme quality. The Coffee Collective was established in Copenhagen, Denmark, during 2007. The four owners represent a remarkable confluence of coffee industry credentials—including one person who was the 2006 World Barista Champion, one person who was the 2008 World Cup Tasting Champion, and one person who has a master’s degree in water resource management focused on coffee-producing regions. During the past few months alone, they have visited farms in Colombia, Brazil, Guatemala, and Ethiopia. Could they be any more serious? This remarkable group now operates three coffee shops and a roastery that serves discerning (and fortunate) subscription and wholesale accounts around the world. In my cup, this varietal blend of SL28 and SL34 initially displays typical and appealing aromas of stone fruits, roasted nuts, and cocoa. But as it cools, it also shows remarkable tropical characters such as ripe pineapple and mango. This coffee is light- to medium-bodied with a refreshing finish. Delicious! (DKK105 / US$16 / 250g)

#coffeecollectif

Los Catadores is a farm near the municipality of Marcala, in the Montecillo Mountains of southwestern Honduras. Its annual harvest is processed alongside the coffee cherries from 227 other local producers by the RAOS cooperative. Ivan Vásquez works as a licensed crop quality grader and expert cupper (or taster) for the cooperative, and he identified this special honey-processed micro-lot for export. Roseline Coffee Roasters was established in Portland, Oregon, during 2012. Founder Marty Lopes first learned about coffee as a barista, and then as an apprentice roaster, in Spokane, Washington. By 2007, he had moved to Portland for continued work as a barista and as a roaster, as well as a green coffee buyer—before striking out on his own with Roseline. In my cup, this Catuai varietal displays delicious aromas of ripe black cherries, dried strawberries, and cocoa. As it cools, it also shows the appealing nutty and citrus-peel characters of amontillado sherry. This coffee is medium- to full-bodied, with a very smooth texture. Truly yummy. ($19/ 12 oz)

#roselinecoffee

Kaffebox is a specialty coffee subscription service that delivers a monthly selection of exceptional beans from Scandinavia’s top micro-roasters. It is the work of Tyler Olson, a thirtysomething Canadian based in Norway—ever since he fell in love with Norwegian girl during college and then married her. But it was his love of craft or the traditional process of making things that led him to coffee.

According to Olson, the goal of KaffeBox is sharing the best new coffee available each month from small Nordic roasters. “When contacting a roaster,” he said, “I simply ask them which coffee on the menu they are enjoying the most or which they are most excited about. The roasters themselves get the majority of say in which coffee is selected. I want to highlight his or her own preferences and styles.”

Nordic nations are a significant force in the specialty coffee world. Scandinavians drink more coffee than anyone, and spending time with friends in cafés with is a societal norm. As well, their approach to coffee roasting is distinctively light. “The longer beans are roasted,” explained Olson, “the more [it is that] the unique flavors of origin are covered up. The taste from the roasting itself then becomes very evident.” By contrast, “when roasting is lighter [as in most of Scandinavia], the origin of the bean, its variety, and the processing all become much more apparent.”

Kaffebox features a spectrum of very exciting regional roasters—including Norway’s Tim Wendelboe, Sweden’s Koppi, and Denmark’s Coffee Collective. Subscribers choose the amount they wish to receive each month, and Olson delivers recurring deliciousness. Prices vary with volume and destination; but 500g (or 17-ounce) packages going to the United States cost about $30 per month—which is similar to popular domestic (American) subscription services.

Regardless of price, Kaffebox may be one of the most enticing sources of specialty coffee anywhere. “Takk” (or thank you), Tyler.

#kaffebox

Roberto Escobar operates a 15-hectare (37-acre) property called Finca Campanario (or “Belltower Farm”) on a mountainside near the town of Apaneca in western El Salvador. Escobar cultivates only Bourbon variety coffee trees, and his harvest pickers are paid not just by weight (which is the norm), but also by ripeness—measuring the Brix or sugar content of each delivery. The coffee cherries then are meticulously processed by Rafael and Carmen Silva Hoff at a nearby mill called Beneficio San Pedro. Phil & Sebastian Coffee Roasters was established in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, during 2007. Namesakes Phil Robertson and Sebastian Sztabzyb are late 30somethings who met in college at the University of Calgary in 1996. Five years later, they discovered espresso and cappuccino bliss at Vivace in Seattle, and they resolved to launch a place of their own back home. That led to eight months of coffee and café research in Vancouver, B.C., and the rest was history. Their first café opened in 2009, and there are now half a dozen around Calgary. In my cup, this coffee displays aromas of blackberries, ripe pears, and cocoa. It is medium-bodied, with smooth texture and some citrusy freshness at the finish. (CAD18.00 / US$13.65 / 340g)

#philandseb

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