Been taking out the Pang as a twin plus one the past few days. Yesterday was a dawn patrol with naomi and radin. was a good time good to start the day. I'm getting the feel for the board for sure now. it takes stronger legs than a normal board. My legs buckle from time to time. something I didn't experience with my other boards.
Today was a good one again smaller sunset sesh. with the girls. again making progress on my turns and accidentally did the bouncing pump and it works. I know it isn't proper form but I felt what it does, and I speeds me up. So I know the feeling of acceleration. need to do it with proper form. But yeah it's just feeling better under my legs.
Big news today. Janis got out the water by herself! huge huge news. She's been getting better catching more waves and now getting out of the water by herself. aww she's growing up.
So. I. got a glimpse of the deeper practice of surfing. Naomi invented me to a talk that ended up being out in waianae. it was a little before sunset and unexpectedly it was at a house. we parked and went up the the back gate. we were greeted by a pit bull but a nice one and it turns out purple Manu is was the one who received the invite. when we got into the house it was like we were transported to a (k) new world. The front lawn area was transformed into a presentation place with a projector beaming onto the side of the main house. there was a traditional tattoo area in and enclosed lanai and you could see inside they were drinking Kāwā. there was this tall ulu tree in the middle of the lawn of was beautiful. it's leaves huge. they checked out temp and told us that the presentation would start when the sun goes down.
it was a potluck so I put down my ola and helped serve the food. it felt safe. so much good food. good food I was serving dimsum mostly. there was a station with buckets to rinse our dishes after.
On to the manalouge by Pūlama Collier. After and intro and oli she stated the manalouge. A sharing of an idea. this one was on women and surfing in ancient Hawaii. It was really interesting. especially how during the aikapu women were allowed to surf because surfing was stared by female demigods. It was so good. they were Moʻo. and women and they were the deities of surfing. There was a lot of koana and it was great to here hawaiian being spoken just normally. so good. It was like I was transported to a new land. She shared moʻolelo of a woman who loved to surf and could call the waves. she takes about people talking to the waves and the waves talking back. it was interesting. it was right.
There was this woman. hawaiian but light skinned with these eyes. I wonder who she was.
The next day I went to Pūlamas talk at wai wai. also fucking crazy brain changer. it was so interesting. That needs its space to be talked about as well. I knew there was a deeper level to surfing.
surfing may be my practice.
