Stone Brewing Company’s Vertical Epic Ale Series
True Believers will remember that I am a big fan of taste testing beer. Obviously, drinking pint after pint of the stuff is incredibly fun, but there’s something to be said for setting up five three-ounce glasses of different beers and knocking them back, comparing flavors and styles and determining One True Champion. Of course, most of the time I accomplish this by picking several beers at random that I want to enjoy. Far from scientific.
But occasionally it’s worth it to throw down some guidelines and make the tastings official. I mean, everybody knows rules make everything better, right? That was the spirit I had in mind when we did the Tailgate Beer Taste Test with the Playbook Podcast, and I’m planning on doing more of these things in the future. Moving on!
One of my good friends, Puck, is a man who enjoys the finer things in life, especially when it comes to beer. I am lucky to have found somebody who shares my opinion that beer should be taken seriously (that is, when you’re not playing beer pong). We’re clearly the only two people in the world who feel this way, which is what makes us both amazing beams of light blasting through the cosmos.
Anyway, back on Earth, Puck came up to visit the Future Mrs. 99 Bottles and me a few weeks ago, and I knew deep down that we’d get into all sorts of beer related shenanigans. He’d never been to my neck of the woods, so I was excited to get a chance to show off Eugene’s finest.
Of course, Puck showed up with his own tricks up his sleeve. You see, Puck was able to show some incredible restraint and had actually been collecting beers for several years, waiting for the perfect moment to taste them all together. These beers all came from Stone Brewing Company’s rather ambitious Vertical Epic Series (more about that in a moment) and Puck had managed to get his hands on the last half of the beers in the series. He decided they needed to be saved for a special occasion, and his trip up north was deemed the appropriate time to finally break into them for a good ol’ fashioned vertical tasting. I was touched.
Right about now, I probably owe you an explanation of two different things: what a vertical tasting is, and what Stone’s Vertical Epic Series is. First off, a clarification on vertical tasting. The term comes from wine tasting, but has lately been co-opted by the craft beer community as beer becomes something to appreciate (much like fine wine). Vertical tastings are when you sample several beers (or wines, or whiskey, or anything else you can eat or drink), all from the same brewery and all in the same style, but from different years. It’s a chance to explore the sometimes-subtle variations of a style and display the evolution of a brewery. This is compared to horizontal tasting, where you taste beers all in the same style and year, but from different breweries, designed to showcase the differences between the breweries’ style.
Stone’s Vertical Epic Series, then, should make a little more sense in name. Starting on February 2nd, 2002 (02.02.02), Stone released eleven different beers, all based on a Belgian golden ale style, but each done completely differently than the last. The choices, it seems, were based entirely on whatever crazy thing Stone wanted to do each year, as each beer was released one year, one month and one day from the last (03.03.03, 04.04.04, etc.). Here’s how Stone describes it (all weird punctuation their’s):
As with any good epic, herein lies the promise of larger-than-life experiences, heroics and twists & turns as the adventure unfolds. These bottle-conditioned ales are specifically designed to be aged until sometime after December 12th, 2012. Provided you can wait that long. At that time, enjoy them in a ‘vertical’ tasting. Each one unique to its year of release. Each with its own ‘twist & turn’ in the plotline. Each one released one year, one month and one day from the previous year’s edition.
Stone is doing what is now becoming common amongst breweries: creating a mythos around their beer that may or may not be deserved, but helps create hype all throughout the craft beer community. Puck fell sucker to this, and collected all the beers from 08.08.08 to 12.12.12, primarily because everything before 08.08.08 was very hard to find after he turned 21.
That’s not fair; Puck isn’t a sucker. He’s a huge fan of Stone Brewing in the same way I worship at the altar of Ninkasi. But Puck isn’t fooled by big talk. Like me, he would rather let the beer speak for itself, seeing if all of Stone’s braggadocio was worth it. With that spirit on mind (and the unceasing desire to explore new beers) we dove headfirst into our share of the Vertical Epics.
From Stone’s Notes: “We proudly present you with this very dry pale golden beer which sports a thick, creamy white foam, is spicy, estery and fruity (from the yeast), and possesses a crisp bitterness–or yes, and it’s very, very generously hopped.
Our Take: Let me first off remind everyone that this beer was about seven years old when we tasted it, which makes it by far the oldest beer I’ve ever had. I’m not too familiar with how lengthy aging affects a beer, so this was my first experience. We did note the fruitiness and crispness that Stone mentions, but the hops didn’t pack nearly the punch I expected. Instead, this beer tasted sort of boozy with elements of banana and fruit with a mild spicy finish. It wasn’t bad at all, but it was far milder and less dynamic a beer than what was described on the label. If this is fairly typical for a seven year old beer, I’d have to advise against letting a beer wait this long. I think you’ll get a much better result closer to the bottling date.
From Stone’s Notes: “Bold and smooth chocolate malt flavors combine with a Belgian yeast lending tropical fruit/banana flavors and hints of spiciness, all complimented by citrus notes from an addition of tangerine peel. Rich vanilla beans add a nice counter to the chocolate malt–actually enhancing the chocolatiness.”
Our Take: I was wary of the combination of chocolate and orange, primarily because I don’t care for that pairing on its own, let alone in a beer. The aroma of 09.09.09 was a strong combination of chocolate and spices, reminding me of a Mexican mole sauce. The flavor, however, was not nearly as interesting as the aroma, instead primarily consisting of burnt chocolate. Vanilla and orange were nowhere to be found, so we were left with a dissatisfying bitter chocolate flavor that was not enjoyable (believe it or not). Again, I think aging may have done a disservice to this one.
From Stone’s Notes: “A Belgian-style golden triple is the starting point of this beer, but the first left turn is nearly immediate with the addition of dry chamomile flowers, triticale and Belgian amber candi sugar. The second and rather unusual left turn takes us half an hour up the road from Stone to Temecula courtesy of the addition of just-pressed Muscat, Gewurztaminer and Sauvignon Blanc grapes from our friends at South Coast Winery.”
Our Take: A beer brewed with wine grapes? I will hand it to Stone: every one of these beers at least starts with a strongly original idea. The aroma was a distinctly Belgian combo of banana, bubblegum and spices, but lacked the hints of wine I was expecting. The flavor, however, started with mild hints of dry white wine that grew and grew as the beer was able to breathe. Puck assured me that this was a distinctly Sauvignon Blanc flavor, which was helpful because I know next to nothing about wine (sorry Dad). Regardless, both Puck and I used the word “inexplicable” several times on this one. I’m not sure how good it was, but it was incredibly interesting and certainly worth trying at least once. Oh, and I didn’t detect any triticale, in case you were wondering.
From Stone’s Notes: “We somehow came to the conclusion that adding Anaheim chilies from New Mexico’s Hatch Valley, plus whole cinnamon sticks, to an amber-hued brew fermented with Belgian Flanders Golden Ale yeast [...] would create a very tasty result. [...] The Anaheim chili is known for its rich flavor more than endorphin-inducing heat, and the cinnamon adds a nice twist.”
Our Take: I’ve had nothing but negative experiences in the past with beers that have employed peppers, including one particularly disastrous run-in with Stone’s own Smoked Chipotle Porter. I am happy to report, then, that I have finally found a beer that uses peppers perfectly. In this instance, the chilies showed up along with yeast and bready malt in the nose, teasing what was to come. The flavor tasted just like a brown ale with a little extra yeast, and some very pleasing chili notes. By using Anaheim chilies, Stone sidestepped a common problem, and emphasized flavor over heat. As such, we got a beer that had a delightfully unique flavor that didn’t burn the tongue.
From Stone’s Notes: “Brewed with cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, clove, orange peel and rose hips [...] it’s a complex beer with many layers. The spices all come on strong along with a nice bready malt character. That said, Stone 12.12.12 Vertical Epic Ale is rather dry on the finish.”
Our Take: As this beer was the most recently bottled, I was expecting the fewest difference between Stone’s description and our experience with 12.12.12, and I wasn’t wrong. What we got was a very malt-forward beer with a veritable spice racks’ worth of flavors thrown in, though dominated by cinnamon. After it had a while to breathe, the whole thing took on a flavor not unlike gingerbread or coffee cake. Of all the beers we tried, this one seemed the most immediately marketable to the general public, especially if they use my idea for Spice Rack as a name and brew it in conjunction with Bob’s Burgers.
So what did we learn here?
I will say that while I didn’t love every beer that Stone put in the Vertical Epic Series, I appreciate the grandiosity of the idea. We need to live in a world where big ideas like this can thrive. And while I found the first three beers more confusing and surprising than enjoyable, 11.11.11 and 12.12.12 were unqualified successes in my book. I don’t know how easy it will be to track any of these beers down, but I’d start with the last two, which I’m sure will be the easiest to find. If you are able to secure any, do your own vertical tasting and write in to let me know how it goes. As for me, I know I’ll be employing Puck’s services for more tasting events in the future, so keep an eye out for that. And don’t worry! I’ll be back with a regularly scheduled beer review next week. Cheers!
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