Helsingborg, October 21, 1809. Supped again last night with the beautiful family of Barque c. d. Pres. des tribunaux soes. en Pomerania.¹ Drank tro. de vin, seeing that I had dined with the Governor; was, in consequence, obliged to sit up till 3, smoking, and reading, and writing. Having resolved to be up early and off at 9, slept sound till 1/2 p. 10! Pas tro. bien.² At 1/2 p. 11 called on Colonel ———, the Commandant, who comports with the utmost politeness. Will order a boat at any hour. Desired it might be at 2; but the passports of Hendrick not having arrived, shall be obliged to go stark alone. At 1/2 p. 12 got my breakfast, and went to packing up. In the midst of it, came in a very gentlemanly-looking man, who introduced himself to me as the Prussian consul at Elsinore. Gave me much useful information. Had a special favor to ask, to which agreed. Had just done packing, when came in the visiting officer, whose duty it is to inspect baggage, &c. Was sent by the Governor, that I might not have the trouble of sending my trunks to the custom-house, or opening them on the wharf. The examination consisted in opening my trunks, and without moving an article, he standing six yards off, and then he received from me 1/2 dollar; very pleasant. How fortunate is my long sleeping. The Commandant came in at 1/2 p. 2. "Good news for you. The passport of Hendrick is arrived, and he shall receive mine in fifteen minutes." A few minutes after he brought it, and waited to eschort³ me to the landing, and see me safe aboard. Heighho! for another, and, nominally, a hostile kingdom. Drizzling, fog, and brisk gale.
Elsinore, October 21, 1809. We crossed in an hour in a small open boat, though the wind was strong ahead; the distance 1,331 toises.⁴ Before leaving the Danish shore the sky cleared, and the sun shone brilliant; weather mild. At about 100 yards from the Danish shore were met by the Danish flag of truce, another boat like ours; for the Swedish boat is not allowed to approach nearer the shore. Each boat has a white flag to manifest the pacific intent. In the Danish boat we and our baggage embarked, and were presently ashore. Another boat took our passports to the Danish Commandant at the castle. The castle which has for ——— levied tribute on all Europe. We landed, leaving our baggage, and went under guard to the custom-house, where an officer examined our passports, endorsed them, and transmitted us, under guards to the castle, about half a mile, where we were exhibited to the Commandant, an elderly man of grave but courteous deportment. He asked in French, if I were Colonel Burr. I replied that I had no claim to a military title, but was commonly so called. Ask me to sit; inquired when I proposed to go to Copenhagen. "To-morrow." Said my passports should be transmitted to me that evening. Went then to our proposed lodgings, Madame Jeuel's. At the door saw carts loaded with furniture and much bustle. The good lady had sold out, and was in the act of moving. In this dilemma a sprightly young man interposed; supposed we were Americans addressed to his house; offered to provide us lodgings, and in ten minutes we were splendidly lodged chez Oder, a confectioner. Our new friend then went with us to see after our baggage. Found it at the custom-house. Our trunks were barely opened and shut. He paid the necessary (customary) douceurs.⁵ Our baggage being lodged, he ordered tea, at which we had the pleasure of his company. Inquired what hour we should sup, and ordered supper. Told us the wines were excellent, and ordered claret and port. It being a mild, brilliant, moonlight evening, he proposed to walk to the King's Garden and park adjoining the town, and thither we went. The Palace small, but neat and good taste. About twenty or thirty statues in a circular area in front, prettily disposed. The hill and terrace in the rear, something higher than the top of the Palace, extends a considerable length, perhaps half a mile, and affords a magnificent and varied view of the town, the castle, the ocean, the Baltic, the Swedish coast, and the town of Helsingborg. Paused at the tomb of Hamlet. It is on this terrace; a square pillar, about four feet high, and without inscription; the only monument. I would willingly have passed an hour alone on this terrace. Returned by another gate. The town very quiet. Our supper served at 9. Eels and mutton, both excellent, and the wines did justice to his recommendation, as he did to them. At 1/2 p. 10 he left us, first inquiring at what hour in the morning he should call to go and show us the church, which I had expressed a curiosity to see. I appointed 1/2 p. 8. My companion, Hendrick, went to bed, and I sat till past 12, smoking the segars which our young friend had given me.