This post is long overdue, but finding the time to prepare it has been nearly impossible since I returned to the States. Christmas and pesky adult responsibilities have absorbed every spare moment. Until now, that is!
My husband Matt arrived in Australia on Friday, 28 November. After lunch with my coworkers at The Australian, visiting Bondi Beach, and enjoying some spectacular craft beers and Thai food in Newtown, we said goodbye to Sydney and headed north to Cairns for (what we officially dubbed) our second honeymoon. A lovely condo in Palm Cove was our base of operations, and from there, we ventured out to hike in Mossman Gorge, snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef, shop in the small rainforest village of Kuranda, and drive aimlessly around beautiful northern Queensland.
The beach at Palm Cove, which we had almost entirely to ourselves!
Day 1 sunrise - Every morning, we dragged ourselves out of bed to watch the sunrise, and it was ALWAYS worth it.
Our second full day in Queensland, we traveled north from Palm Cove to Mossman Gorge to hike in the rainforest and take a dip in its famous clear water pools. Mossman Gorge is located in the southern section of Daintree National Park, which is a World Heritage Site. The Daintree is regarded as the oldest existing rainforest on earth.
These basket ferns are epiphytes, which are plants that grow on other plants but aren't parasitic. For all you Southerners, Spanish moss is also an epiphyte. <end science lesson>
Clean, clear, precious water!
Matthew posing in front of a fig tree to add some perspective - can you believe how massive it is? And this one was small compared to another one we encountered (Scroll down to check it out!).
The vegetation was a little...thick.
So, yeah, this fig tree - ENORMOUS.
After hiking in the unbearable heat, it was time for a swim. The water was a tad cold but refreshing!
Day 3 sunrise - just breathtaking, right?
On Wednesday morning, we drove to Cairns for the most exciting excursion of our trip: snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef! I'm sure some of you are expecting dozens and dozens of exceptional underwater photos, and I hate to disappoint you...but we didn't take a single one. And I'm happy about that. Why?, you ask. Because sometimes I get so caught up taking photos, I forget to fully enjoy my experiences. I was swimming in the South Pacific among a plethora of brilliantly colored fish and coral - why ruin a once in a lifetime experience worried about getting a good shot?
Cairns as we pulled away from the wharf.
All smiles after snorkeling stop one (of two)!
We chose Passions of Paradise as our reef tour operator, and we couldn't have been more pleased. The crew was friendly and took great care of us!
The rest of the week was spent laying on the beach, shopping and lazily exploring northern Queensland. I have some additional photos of our adventures I might post later, but the best are above with the exception of the two photos below, which I hesitated to post. Taking them was a MAJOR TOURIST MOVE. But when you're an American driving around Australia, and you see a FIELD OF WALLABIES, you stop and take pictures. YOU JUST DO.
On my way back to Sydney, I decided to stop at a petrol station to grab something caffeinated and somehow ran across a Hindu temple, the Sri Venkateswara Temple in Helensburgh. This isn’t exactly an everyday occurrence in Charlotte, North Carolina, so I stopped and respectfully took a few photos.
It’s clear I’m a bit behind with my posts. First, I was busy packing and saying goodbye to the city I love. And, then, I was lying on the beach in Palm Cove without Wi-fi (or a care in the world). So, hopefully, you can understand why this post and the ones that follow it are the tiniest bit out of sync with my activities.
My final weekend alone in Australia, I went on a road trip through the Southern Highlands. I visited Bowral, Fitzoy Falls, Robertson, and Carrington Falls all before taking a roller coaster of a ride down Jamberoo Mountain Road to Jamberoo and returning to Sydney. This trip was tremendous fun and a monumental achievement because the driver...was me!
I think most of my American friends and family are aware of this, but perhaps some of you aren’t – the Aussie’s drive on the left side of the road like the British. This means, everything is opposite, and what your instincts tell you is invariably wrong. Thankfully, one of the BDO Sydney partners gave me some great advice that probably saved my life (and the lives of several others): Hard left, soft right. Every time I made a turn I silently chanted, ‘Hard left, soft right,’ and it worked. I returned home unscathed.
My sweet ride - a Nissan Micra.
Bowral was a charming little town full of shops and cafes. I had a delicious late breakfast at Raw and Wild Café and then lazily walked through town along Bong Bong Street (Yes, Bong Bong Street!). I stopped for a cappuccino – not nearly as good as my favorite coffee shop in Sydney, but then again, nothing is. I also spent an inordinate amount of time in lovely little store called A Touch of Tea. This isn’t exactly a shocker, though the place deserves a mention for its variety of teas and accessories.
Fitzroy Falls had tremendous potential, but alas, the lack of rain meant it was a bit underwhelming. The view down the valley was still impressive, though. And so were the gorgeous green ferns that lined the pathway to the viewing platform.
Fitzroy Falls...or more appropriately, Fitzroy Dribble.
Serious yum...makes me want to bake a pie!
Carrington Falls was a gamble. No one mentioned it in their recommendations, and my guidebook only had the tiniest blurb. But it ended up being the best part of my day.
Carrington Falls, which drops 50 metres down into the gorge.
When I realized I could easily and (somewhat) safely climb to the top of the falls, I had to do it!
View down the gorge from the top of Carrington Falls.
Walking on water? Nah, just playing in it like a five year old.
Brekkie at Raw and Wild Cafe in Bowral: A cup of Chai and the “Wild Breakfast” (Poached eggs, roasted tomatoes, spinach, Oriental mushrooms, and haloumi cheese with sourdough toast).
On Saturday, I spent several hours slowly making my way through the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Given that I'd been terribly sick and couldn't seem to shake whatever was going on with me (Still can't, for that matter!), a relaxing day spent appreciating some beautiful art was exactly what I needed. That and cake apparently...
Flash photography isn't allowed in the gallery, which is generally the case everywhere. But photography is permitted otherwise. I still felt a bit odd openly taking pictures, though, so I'm only including a handful of my favorite pieces below.
'Snowdrop and the seven little men' John Dickson Batten (1897)
I can't quite explain it, but I fell in love with this painting. For those of you who don't know, Snowdrop (ie, Snow White) is one of Grimm's Fairy Tales. Batten painted Snowdrop with egg yolk rather than oil (a method called tempera painting).
'Canterbury meadows' Thomas Sidney Cooper (1862)
Check out the irreverent expression on the face of the sheep in the middle. It's quite imaginative - I'll give Mr. Cooper that!
The detail of the frame for 'The snake charmer' by Etienne Dinet (1889). Some of the frames seemed more intricate and more detailed than the paintings themselves.
'Spring frost' Elioth Grunner (1919)
"The most loved Australian landscape painting in the Gallery"
Even though I ate enough sugar yesterday for five people, I simply had to have something sweet today for my birthday. So, I went to try the world's best gelato at Cow and the Moon in Enmore. I got a little excited and ordered three scoops (French Vanilla, Latte, and Hazelnut Roche), and all three flavours were delicious.
This past weekend, I went on another whirlwind trip, but somewhere not so desolate and remote. On Friday night, I hurried home after work, grabbed my suitcase, and headed to the airport. I was off to Melbourne for two nights and one full (but very enjoyable) day of shopping, eating, and aimlessly walking around Sydney's rival city.
I got up early on Saturday morning, even though I was still recovering from the work week and my trip to Uluru, because I wanted to get a jumpstart on the day. Plus, I had breakfast plans with my lovely friend Deb. She met me in my hotel lobby, and we headed to Phancy Cafe to chit-chat and grab something to eat. I ordered a cappuccino and one of that morning's specials - avocado mixed with feta cheese spread on toasted sourdough bread, then topped with two poached eggs and roasted tomatoes. I was mildly skeptical of the avocado and feta mixture but ordered it anyway, and I'm so glad I did. It was really delicious (and will be a breeze to recreate at home!).
Deb and I talked about everything from our careers to Aussie slang to our mutual love of Downton Abbey. We were having such a delightful conversation the time flew by, but thankfully, Deb was watching the clock. My time in Melbourne was limited, so I had to make the most of it!
We finished our breakfast, and Deb took me to the nearby Queen Victoria Market. Covering two city blocks, the Queen Vic has everything from clothing and souvenirs to fresh meats and produce. It's littered with interesting little delis and bakeries, too! But, that said, its size is a little overwhelming - I had no idea where to start. Thank goodness I had Deb as a guide.
I grabbed some fruit for breakfast the next morning after saying goodbye to my sweet friend. Then, I made my way back to the hotel to drop it off and pick up an essential item I'd left behind - my camera!
Next, I headed to the southeastern corner of Melbourne's CBD - Bourke and Collins Streets, to be exact, which are renowned for their fabulous shopping. I may have bought a few things. Maybe.
Besides some new, fashionable clothes, I had another motivation that brought me to this area of the city - the famous Block Arcade and the Hopetoun Tea Room.
A picture of my Pavlova from Hopetoun Tea Room is in an earlier post if you're curious. It was spectacular. You should really check it out, both below and in person. I'm certain you won't regret it.
After my sugary snack, I walked down Flinders Street and traipsed about the quirky laneways that stem off from it, including DeGraves Street, which is also featured in an earlier post.
The first is Flinders Street Train Station. How strange I came across Flinders Street Station on Flinders Street...
One of Melbourne's most recognisable landmarks!
The second building is St. Paul's Cathedral. I'm obsessed with old churches like this one - the Gothic architecture, the stained glass, the gilded altars. All I can say is I feel badly for the poor soul that joins me on any future trip to Europe. It's going to be a long one for you. I hope you like churches and rose gardens!
I didn't hear this pipe organ, and that's the only regret I have from my "detour" at St. Paul's.
Eventually, I managed to pull myself away from the cathedral and emerged into the heat (and humidity) of the day. I then headed down St. Kilda Road towards the Shrine of Remembrance, and as I strolled along, I realized I had no idea what it actually looked like and thought, "I wonder if I'll know it when I see it." Um, yeah, Jess. YEAH, YOU WILL.
"This monument was erected by a grateful people to the honoured memory of the men and women of Victoria who served the Empire in the Great War of 1914-1918."
Beautiful Melbourne from the top of the Shrine of Remembrance.
Next, I moved on to Melbourne's Royal Botanic Gardens, and I have to say, they *might* be better than Sydney's. However, Sydney's rose gardens were much better, and that, at least in my case, is perhaps the most important factor.
These Birds of Paradise truly looked like birds in person. I had to do a double-take.
Speaking of our feathered friends, I still have no idea what to make of the birds here...
...or most of the plant life.
This picture and the next few shouldn't surprise you. I sought out the rose garden from the moment I passed through the entrance gate.
By now, it was early evening, and I was getting a taste of Melbourne's notorious "four-seasons-in-one-day" weather. It went from stiflingly hot to misty and cold in minutes. And I was starving, which meant it was the perfect time for one thing: dinner. With Deb's help, I decided on Stalactites, then hopped on a tram and made my way to Lonsdale Street.
After my waiter rolled me out of the restaurant, I walked back my hotel, took a shower, and fell asleep sitting upright in bed with a book in my lap. It was that kind of day.
Husband is scoring brownie points from halfway across the globe! Not only are these flowers a lovely birthday present, but they show some impressive resourcefulness on his part.
Thank you for the beautiful gift, Matthew! I love you.
This weekend, I went on a real Australian adventure into the Outback to visit Uluru (Ayers Rock). Perhaps this is more the type of excursion you expected me to have - not the weekends spent eating at vegan restaurants and laying on the beach. At any rate, this post should at add some excitement to my blog (which my co-worker and "buddy" Burton recently said, albeit facetiously, was getting a bit boring).
My flight to Uluru was direct from Sydney - 3.5 hours and over 2,000 kilometres into Australia's "Red Centre." I was well and truly in the Outback for the first time on this trip, and although I knew what to expect, nothing could have prepared me for how utterly isolated and barren it is. I flew over kilometre after kilometre of dusty red earth unspoiled by buildings and roads. Rugged trees and shrubs and the occasional dry riverbed were the only features on the desolate landscape. At one point during my journey, I sent Matthew a message that said something like: "This is the craziest thing I've ever done. I feel like I'm on Mars."
I touched down in the Northern Territory at noon on Saturday and was promptly whisked away to Ayers Rock Resort by shuttle bus with a massive group of fellow travelers. The ride took less than 10 minutes, and I was "checked-in" by 1pm.
"Checked-in" is in quotation marks for a reason - I didn't really need to check-in because I didn't have a room. Well, not one of my own anyway. To curb the ridiculous cost of the trip and add to the "adventure" of the experience, I decided to stay in the hostel, and considering how worried both my husband and poor mother were over this, it was decidedly uneventful.
My transport to Uluru (the aptly named Uluru Express) picked me up at 2pm, and we set off for "the Rock." When it came into view, and as we got closer and closer, I'm certain my gaping mouth got wider and wider. Uluru is massive - roughly 9 kilometres around and 348 metres high - and shimmering in the afternoon sun, it appeared digitally imposed in the vast desert. I kept wondering, Is this even real?!
I was dropped off at the Mala carpark and set off on my walk around Uluru's base, which I completed about 3 hours later. I can now confirm with 100 percent certainty that Uluru is indeed real, and I have heaps of photographic evidence of my own to prove it:
The climb to the summit, which you can do if (1) you have a death wish or (2) want to disrespect the Anangu who ask that you don't climb.
Uluru is a sandstone inselberg (literally, "island mountain"). Surprisingly, the rock is blue-gray in color, but oxidation on the surface makes it appear red.
Most days, I'm "American Jess," but in this one instance, I think "Outback Jess" is most appropriate.
Golden wattle is Australia's national flower, and it's clearly a hearty little plant. Fitting choice for the Aussies!
Dry, brittle, and windswept...like much of the landscape.
It was hot. I mean, incredibly HOT. The sun was powerful and unforgiving, but hilariously, it was "cool" by Uluru standards in November.
I loved the color contrast here. The sun was hitting the rocks just right, making them a truly vibrant red, which was set off by the jade green colored shrubs.
I was picked up again by my lovely driver from Uluru Express after completing the base walk. She took me and the other passengers on a quick lap around Uluru in "air conditioned comfort" before we all headed to the sunset viewing area. Once there, I walked to the top of a dune to get my shots (and escape the crowd), and I was so pleased I did!
I'm not one to "stop and take a #selfie," but I figured I better start including myself in these photographs. Otherwise, you might think this whole thing is an elaborate hoax.
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) in the distance!
I was back at Ayers Rock Resort by 8pm and finally took a look at my accommodations. My bed in the girls' 20-guest dormitory looked clean and tidy, and the showers, much like those in the state parks I've camped at back home. Like I said previously - uneventful.
After stashing my bags, I headed towards the Town Centre for dinner. There are a few restaurants and souvenir shops there, along with a post office and grocery store. After perusing my options, I settled on vegetarian Pad Thai from Ayers Wok. Not the best Pad Thai I've ever eaten, but they get some serious points for creativity. I mean, Ayers Wok? Really?
I booked the Astro Tour for after dinner. But, unfortunately, it was cancelled because the weather was cloudy. Yes, cloudy in the middle of the desert. It actually rained the day before I arrived! Those of you who talked with me beforehand know how excited I was about this nerdy tour, so you can imagine I was pretty disappointed. I didn't see a single star during my visit to Uluru...
Even though I was completely exhausted, sleep didn't come easily for me. My mattress and pillow were comfortable enough, but the dorm I was staying in is right next to the only proper bar on the resort - a bar with live music on Saturday nights at that. To make matters worse, the music was atrocious, although the crowd seemed to be enjoying it immensely. I was rather impressed by their enthusiastic participation in the performer's rendition of "Footloose" at midnight.
Traveling and hiking in the heat on Saturday, combined with (frequently) interrupted sleep overnight, proved an almost disastrous combination come Sunday morning. I was planning to watch the sunrise over Uluru, which meant a 4.45am pick-up. I set my alarm for 4.15am, which seemed more than reasonable - I was only planning to change my clothes and brush my teeth. But when my alarm started blaring, I'm sure I groaned aloud, and in a haze of sleep and anger, I turned it off. I didn't just hit "snooze" - I TURNED OFF MY ALARM. When I opened my eyes again and looked at my phone, it was exactly 4.47am, and THAT got me up in a hurry. I tried not to outright panic as I bounded from the bed and quickly changed my clothes. Then, I ran to the pick-up location in front of the hotel. It was a miracle, but I made it in time to catch the bus. And I don't think I looked too dreadful by the time it was light enough for the other early-risers to see me. Not that anyone was looking at me anyway. We were all awestruck by the magnificence of Uluru as the rising sun illuminated its colorful sandstone.
Looking a little rough but happy - I was watching the sunrise at Uluru in the middle of the Australian Outback!
It was a cool morning and the perfect time to do a little more exploring. So, I poked around the base of Uluru for a couple hours and enjoyed listening to the particularly active birds before I was picked up by the Uluru Express and carted back to Ayers Rock Resort.
See you next time, Uluru!
The next several hours were a blur of buses, planes, and trains, but I made it back to my cozy apartment in Kirribilli by early evening. One heck of a weekend, right?
Today, my co-worker Mel and her two housemates Nicole and Hannah took me on a mini road trip down the NSW coast to Kiama. We stopped at Stanwell Tops, walked the Sea Cliff Bridge, had a delicious lunch at Cafe Parkview, and investigated Kiama's famous Blowhole (which isn't nearly as dirty as it sounds).
The Sea Cliff Bridge from Stanwell Tops.
Stanwell Tops is frequented by hang gliders and paragliders looking for a thrill over the Pacific Ocean. I got a thrill just watching - not sure I need to join in.
Let's flip flop - Stanwell Tops from the Sea Cliff Bridge.
The rather charming Kiama Lighthouse.
The Kiama Blowhole, which, sadly, wasn't as impressive today as these pictures prove. But I couldn't be too disappointed given how incredible Blowhole Point was!
No idea who those crazy people are, but they're braver than me. Or dumber. Whichever.
After checking out the Market on Miller in North Sydney this morning, I returned to my apartment, grabbed my camera, and set off to explore the city once again. The weather was warm and sunny and perfect for a stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens, so that’s where I headed.
Situated in the northwest corner of the gardens is the NSW Government House, which is where the governor of NSW resides. Clearly, the poor man is living in squalor.
Now, on to what you’d really like to see - the lovely plants and animals that inhabit the gardens!
Don’t these leaves look dangerous?
Golden Wattles (Australia’s national flower)!
This lavender was so fragrant I smelled it long before I saw it!
The rose garden wasn’t as impressive as the one at the Biltmore (in Asheville, NC), but I still got several beautiful photographs. Perhaps I’ll upload a few more in a separate post.
A Masked Lapwing bathing - I think he was embarrassed I was watching him.
Even more sweet baby birds! This time, Australian wood ducks.
Shhh! They’re sleeping.
Farm Cove and Sydney’s CBD from Mrs. Macquarie’s Point
Naturally blonde, cheap, and abroad! Got other important things to spend my money on (like coffee and chocolate and a trip to Uluru), so at-home hair color, it is!
