Anna K

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Reflection

Developing Practice - Semester 1 

Firstly, the most obvious thing that I discovered was the advantages and disadvantages of working as part of a group. I learn that good teamwork is the key in Design activities when time is limited. The fact that each person had their own point of view meant that many ideas could be processed over the course of semester 1. On the other hand, failing to complete your part of the work - research on a group project can potentially "backfire" in the end to you and also have consequences for the rest of your group.

Secondly, the overall design process and thinking that we had to follow in order to produce "Human-centered" design. I discovered that the use of materials like paper, markers, and scissors, are essential in order to "sell" or "describe" your idea to others, but also test its functionality. This process also tested our ability as a group to guide and mentor each other. At first, I was insecure about the process but in the end, i could see that the simplest things, with your creativity and effort can be turned into something amazing. The participation in various design activities encourage me although am not that open as a person to test myself and try to do my best in participating in this creative journey and thus network with colleagues from the same industry and many other that operate around design. Again in this process we used some simple materials such as post it, scissors, paper, makers, along with our creativity to produce cool ideas that we end up presenting.

Thirdly, I realized that presentation is very important. A poor presentation means that you fail to communicate with your audience. I learn that the hard way. Presenting means that you have to be a designer and an advertiser at the same time. You want to design and also be able to communicate that idea with your audience. Apart from your research you it's essential to find ways for your audience to focus on your presentation, that means by creating extra visuals for your presentation, limit your text to only the basics, stand up and make eye contact by showing confidence in your work. The feedback that I got from this project forced me to reflect again and again about the aims of this course and how to approach a brief next time and be aware of what I need to watch for. Combining your presentation with strong visuals instead words can really make the difference in your work.

Fourthly, I find note taking to be a useful tool as it ensures that not only do I get the information correctly but also will have extra material to study at home. As a master student it is really important to observe what is happening around us and discover the use of design in our everyday. Exhibition days really made us realise that design is indeed everywhere and plays an important role in providing information to people and also provide us with useful information and references that we can use as a source of inspiration to our future projects.

Looking back in the first semester, I can see now that every designer has it's weakness and strengths and that being a part of a design group can help discover yourself as a designer and you will end up getting out of your comfort zone and "forced" to do things with a different approach.

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The Ephemera Of Eternity : The Irish Catholic Memorial Card As Material Culture

Marry Ann Bolger is a lecturer in Design history at the Dublin Institute of Technology. Her primary research interest are in twentieth century Irish graphic design, material region and visual culture. She received her MA in design history in the Royal College of Art and she is completing her PhD on post war Irish Graphic Design and typography.

In the text she talks about the memorial cards of Ireland, a country with a strong mourning culture. Established during the twentieth century, the primary aim of the memorial cards is to solicit prayers for the deceased, and seems to have withstand the changes in both  graphic design and technology. A typical layout of a memorial card consists of a single bi - fold card, about 2inches by 4inches with a holy picture on the obverse, usually pictures of Christ or Virgin Mary. On the reverse, there is the name - date of death and address of the deceased, while the typography on the memorial cards is determined by the way of their production. Memorial cards began as small cards called "holy cards" printed with a devotional image that could easily hide inside a book and it was used to celebrate significant religious rites or commemorate a deceased person. They began circulating in France during 1850, and spread over to Germany and throughout Catholic Europe during 1870. Originally limited to the nobility, but improvements in technology enabled the mass production and eventually the use by the wider public. It was during the "devotion revolution" during 1850-1875 when the memorial cards started spread over to  Ireland. Evidence of surviving cards indicates that Ireland was supplied with French and Germans holy cards. The reverse of the card consisted of a standard prayer that was overprinted by local printers with details of an individual death. The significance of France as a source of orthodoxy, gradually lead to the absence of Celtic symbols to the majority of the Irish memorial cards. This was part of the post - famine Catholicism to eliminate traditional local religious practices. Among the traditional practices that where targeted was the so called "merry wake," the Irish approach to death. This was part of the desire to bring Irish Catholicism in the same direction as Roman norms.

Memorial cards play a commercial rather than clerical response to the churches state between heaven and earth, and this seems to effect the hierarchy of information on the reverse of the cards. The conventional layout focus on the photograph and the name of the deceased. Either side of the image and above are set short prayers, while below the image are the words: In loving memory of, their address which followed by who died and date of death. Sometimes, the layout can be changed and the text can be set in an different often decorative typeface in variety of sizes. Photographs on memorial cards, did not began to appear until 1940. Usually they are chosen by the bereaved and its main reason is to identify and contemplate the departed. Holy cards from 1930 onwards are depicting full length representations of devotional figures like (Christ or The Virgin). Contemporary cards, give an increased emphasis in the depiction of the religious figure in a heavenly environment. This depiction can be seen as a kind of graphic wish fulfilment. The deceased can be now placed into the scene of one's choice. Many photographs that are used on Irish memorial cards are usually cut down from a snapshot and erased from the background by giving this way emphasis on the face of the deceased.

Post mortem photography, also known as "memorial portraiture" is another practice as much as popular to memorial cards, that were used to help people acknowledge the transition of the departed to another realm.

These photographs, of the deceased loved ones were a normal part of American and European culture during the nineteenth and early twentieth century. It was offered as an alternative method for people who could not afford to take family portraits while still alive, so postmortem photographs not only helped in grieving and recovery but sometimes represented the only visual remembrance of the deceased one and was considered to be one of the  families most precious possessions. Invented by Frenchman: Louis Daguerre in 1839 it became increasingly popular around the world. The process of "Daguerreotype" began by taking pictures of famous people of the time. Later on, it served as a valuable tool in "Death portraits" that helped people with the grieving process. In an era when epidemics such as diphtheria, typhus and cholera claimed the lives of thousands of children and people, death back then was common. The earliest post - mortem photographs usually contained images of young children or infants. Photos where either close ups of the face or shots of the full body. The subjects usually are depicted so as to seem as they are in a deep sleep, but sometimes photographs would try a variety of tricks to make their subjects to appear more alive. Metal stands, and other devices were used to pose the dead as a living person. The use of a stand or an arm rest by photographers was used, so the diseased person can remain in the same position for the camera's lengthy exposure time. Some children where positioned  in a couch or a crib with their eyes open, or  being surrounded by their favorite toys and it was not uncommon to take photographs of diseased young children accompanied by one (usually the mother) or many family members. Eventually, healthcare improved the life expectancy of children, and the demand for death photography diminished. The practice peaked around the end of 19 century and died when snapshot photography became popular.

Nowadays, the thought of post mortem photography in today’s world may seem unconventional because photographs today is part of our normal everyday life. Post mortem photography and memorial cards are examples of two practices that where in existence around the same centuries, that helped people deal with the loss of their loved ones and the grieving process.

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Process of thinking

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Working  Well

Scenarios 

My interviews include fellow graphic designers from college age 23 to 25 years old that work as freelance graphic designers from their houses, and people from the age of 35 with family that work from home. Both groups, described to me that although working from home is more familiar and cost-effective, unfortunately, life from home most of the time put them "off" working mode. 

My scenarios indicate this particular working pattern of the two age groups. 

My design solution can help remote workers form a working schedule and enter "working Mode" without any delay. "Virtual office" will enable employees to keep track of time and have a work-life balance. For the virtual office to be successful, each remote worker will be provided with a T-shirt and an identity card. By wearing the T-shirt remote workers will start their day early and by providing the visual information to their family members that they are about to and start working. "Visual Office" will require from each employee to set a weekly schedule with the exact working hours they are going to follow. The information that they give will be uploaded to the system in order for their working environment to be aware exactly each person is starting their work and finishes. In the end, forcing employees to have a routine will help them be more serious about their job and be more productive during the hours they have to choose to work, thus enabling work-life balance.

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Workig Well

Paper prototype

Before resulting with the "Virtual office" ad my design solution to the working well brief the idea of an "office guide" a box that helps employees on how to think positive and be more creative was my initial solution. By paper prototyping, my idea enables me to test its practicality. By testing it to my classmates and friends, it gave me a lot of ideas of how to improve my solution, thus making it more useful. After trial and error, i took my thinking one step forward and switched from an "office guide" to "the Gift box." By using" The Gift Box" companies can use it to incorporate relevant material inside a nice packaging for their employees in preparation for the evaluation week. A "Gift Box" can include essentials that will prepare and motivate employees to have fun and interact with others during this week. By using "The Gift Box" companies can transform evaluation week in an event that people will look forward to. The event is going to consists first of activities that target the interaction and well being of remote workers before switching to working mode. This gives the chance for people that work from distant to get to know their coworkers from up close and spend time together by doing activities.

After paper prototyping my idea for the second time, The kit will consist of two "separate " shelves. One with the name "Event" with materials relevant to activities & the other with the name "Work" that will incorporate work material.

Event Shelve:

 Membership card.

Ticket. (for an event that all employees can attend)

Custom T-shirt (designed specifically for the event)

Wristband (That provide access to areas)

Chocolates

Activities Itinerary 

Work Shelve:

Pencils

Notebook

"Hi my name is" card

USB

Post it

Energy bar

Welcome Letterhead

Itinerary

Stress ball

Pin with companies logo or Project

Cardholder, where you can put around your neck and carry your membership card

 Finally, after rethinking, redesigning and refining my idea by testing and paper prototyping, my final solution changed from the "Gift Box" to "Visual Office."

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Working Well

Info Maps & Storyboard

Making Data maps help me have a better understanding how working conditions are affecting each generation and compare them to my research about remote work. The results that I got from the data maps help us form our survey from which we got useful information regarding the working conditions today.

Story Board:

A storyboard is used, in order to illustrate My design process.

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Working Well - Visual Office

The Brief:

Design a vision and business case for a way to promote greater wellbeing when people are at work, wherever that work takes place, that will contribute to higher productivity and better overall mental health.

Having decided to take "Working Well" as a group project at the beginning we began brainstorming. Working environment can affect peoples life both positive and negative, that's why we set the following first questions:

How are working conditions today?

What is Working Well?

What is Working Bad?

What is a good working environment?

What is a bad working environment?

How many people are suffering from poor mental health as a result of their working environment?

How do we make work environment as pleasant as enough?

What are the conditions of getting stressed?

Finding a way to promote Wellbeing in the working environment.

A suitable working environment should allow young people to be more productive by allowing them to use some time for themselves to work on personal projects.

Learning activities help stuff to adapt to changing requirements of organization.

Create conditions, where remote workers can have the chance meet other fellow remote coworkers.

Remote work is high on demand today due to its flexible timetable.

Offices in the future might not be needed.

Get-togethers can coworkers get to know each other and spend time together by doing activities before focusing on work. Get-togethers like this can easily transform the boring evaluation week in the working environment with something that the employees will look forward to attend.

Find a way to help people "manage their thought" and express themselves more easily in the working environment.

Expressing yourself in "the key" to all problems. From work to family to managing workflow to having better relationship with their boss. Many people fail to express themselves for various reasons which results into poor productivity and well being.

Taking all above in into consideration, my focus is:

Young people from age 25-35, a delicate age group where people are starting to make their first steps in a working environment. It is also a group that is suffering the most from anxiety, stress, mental issues, long working hours, and difficulty in managing their personal life.

Millennials, because it is considered to be a hot topic

Remote workers, because remote work over the last years is starting to become popular among employees

 Virtual office:

After rethinking, redesigning and refining my idea by testing and paper prototyping, my idea I created the "Visual Office" as my design solution.

The thinking behind visual office is to "break" the barrier between the loneliness - luck of focus and long working hours that remote workers experience at home, by trying to connect them with other remote workers. In order to do that, I need to create elements that are going to help each person get into "working mode" first and then with the help of a software, remote workers will have the ability to communicate with each other.

 Visual office is a software that can help remote workers form a working schedule and enter "working Mode" without any delay. "Virtual office" will enable employees to keep track of time and have a work-life balance. For the virtual office to be successful, each remote worker will be provided with a T-shirt and an identity card. By wearing the T-shirt remote workers will start their day early and by providing the visual information to their family members that they are about to and start working. "Visual Office" will require from each employee to set a weekly schedule with the exact working hours they are going to follow. The information that they give will be uploaded to the system in order for their working environment to be aware exactly each person is starting their work and finishes. If Remote workers wish to change their schedule they can do that during weekdays. This helps young parents do minor adjustments to their working schedule but also their working environment can be aware of the changes on time without causing trouble to the working environment or the workflow of the remote worker. When it's time to enter "Visual office" because they have submitted their schedule each employee will have to be accurate on entering "Virtual office". By doing this will help employees find a designated working area inside their house earlier and young parents finish family obligations on time before they start working. Failing to start "on time" will have an effect on them by their work. When it's time to work and enter "Visual office" each employee will have to "tap" his/her card in order to have access to their personalized account. This also informs the office that they working hours have started. Inside the software, they will be provided with constant support by both employees and work-related material that will be available on visual office. Employees will have the ability to video call or chat an coworkers in order to exchange information regarding work by using virtual office thus breaking the barrier of loneliness. After the completion of their working hour's employees will have to use their card again to signal the end of today's work. By taping in and out, and completing a weekly report, the working environment will know which remote worker is working and how many hours and how accurate they are regarding the online schedule and report they have submitted. Forcing employees to have a routine will help them be more serious about their job and be more productive during the hours they have to choose to work, thus enabling work-life balance. As a result, this software will put an end to weekly evaluations because the working environment will have control of the employees with the visual office. If Remote workers feel the need to talk to someone regarding work the can use "Visual office" to chat or video call coworkers or managers which will be available in categories within the software. Coming in contact with video calls in highly encouraged within the "Visual office." An availability notification will let know the employees which employee is available. That is why they are only two available choices of communication inside "Visual office" (Video call and chat.) The use of internet with the "Visual Office" will filter out social media softwares, allowing employees to use the internet and other softwares only for work related information.

Evaluation dates will be replaced with "get togethers." Employees can use "Virtual office" to be informed about the get togethers and "join this activity" if they wish to participate. This activities are centered in an attempt to make remote workers feel less lonely but introducing them to other fellow remote workers. By getting to know each other by doing group activities will straighten their relationship and lead to greater well being. The employee will make use of their identity card for the get togethers and in this way their working environment will also monitor how active each employee is regarding social activities

Conclusion:

Taking all above information into consideration the use of "Virtual office" can decrease the distance from working from home and the working environment and enable remote workers to be in contact with work and other remote workers thus making them more active member of the team that will lead to greater productivity and well being.  Virtual office can create a chain of positive changes in both remote workers and working environment.

[ankar93]

Can Graphic Design Save Your Life ? - 15.11.17

"Have you noticed how the simplest things can affect your life? Think about pill packets, graphic posters, and warning signs that have both a carefully considered beautifully design. They save millions from disease and inspire us to look after ourselves. How has graphic design affected your wellbeing ? What would life be like without graphic design ?"

Drawn from public and private collections around the world this free exhibition highlights graphic design complex relationship with and how it's used to communicate healthcare messages. in order to inform and empower people. It features work from many influential graphic designers as well as studios. Graphic design plays a double role in health care. Either it can be used to help people avoid certain habits and raise awareness or it can be used against healthcare and encourage people take up unhealthy habits that will eventually kill them.

The exhibition starts with the "smoking section" in an animated cartoon on smoking and health. The use of clever names like: "Old Nick Oteen" discussed as a cool cyclist shows how people are lured in the smoking habit. After "Sam" falls into the trap, visions of his future encourage him to visit a doctor and renounce this ad habit. The use of clever animation back in 1967 was a popular way in passing important messages and communicating with the public.

The exhibition is full of examples of graphic design. Hospitals employ strong visuals for their interior signage in order to communicate with their patience and also as way of managing the stress levels of people during their stay. Furthermore, we follow how big pharmaceutical companies  evolve their logos and packaging like Bayer, and how contemporary packaging and conceptual design created by design agencies like " Studio Dumbar " can attract the attention of people.

All in all, I always knew that graphic design plays a huge role in the health department. Looking back at his exhibition, I realize now that graphic design CAN change your life and strong visuals can really make the difference to people in health and awareness.

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Have Fun and Play

Designing a book involves attention to detail. Cookbook design is truly one of the most interesting and unique. Design a cookbook of your own choice and have fun. If you want to add more there is no stopping you.

Taking the above words into consideration, my idea of a cookbook wanted to be something that people can identify immediately but also set a challenge for me as a graphic designer so i can explore how much more can i experiment with that initial idea.

By doing some research in order to find reference material that will eventually help me find what sort of cookbook I want to make i realized that the solution was right in front of me. Many of our favourite movies contain food scenes. Many films nowadays can be famous because of that favourite food scene. "Ratatouille" from Ratatouille, "Clemenza tomato sauce with meatballs" from Godfather, "Boef a la Bourguignon " from Julie and Julia are some examples from further research on the subject. My concept behind this idea is to combine strong visuals mainly typographic, and recipes with twist. Further research on movies helped me realize that the idea was possible for instance, some early thoughts about recipies might be: "Horse head" for Godfather and "Fish and Chips" for Finding Nemo.

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Focus areas of Interest

My main focus for now regarding my masters project is branding. Ever since a was a first year student creating simple forms using a grid system always fascinated me.

For me, it is really important to be able to communicate using simple forms that behind it have a bigger meaning. My strongest goal is to think more creatively by using simple forms to explain something dipper.

I believe that simplicity is the key to any visual symbol and can be applied to almost any area of design. My inspiration about this, comes mainly from the brand identities of the Olympic games. The design team in charge, can spend years evolving a project in order to express each country's cultural identity or a meaning behind each concept.

 In my opinion, a strong identity comes by taking advantage of the cultural history that each country has to offer. Usually something like that is used for the Olympic games thus forming a strong visual identity that is able to communicate with the visitors.

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My body  is my manifesto! Slut Walk, FEMEN and femmenist protest

Theresa O' Keefe is a professor in the Department of Sociology at the National University or Ireland Maynooth. She researches gender social activism and radical change using intersectional analysis. She has published works in the International Feminist journal of Politics and National identity, while in the University she co - directs the MA in Community Education, equality and social activism. In the text she is exploring the contemporary forms of women protest in an attempt to raise questions about the explicit use of gender body and the problematic interface that causes between third wave and post feminism. As examples she uses the protests of Slut Walk and FEMEN.

 Slat Walk began in Toronto Canada, when during a campus information session a police officer advice women that if they wanted to remain safe they should avoid "dressing like sluts." Women present at the time call for action other women to " flant their inner slut" and respond to police officers comment. Further research on the subject by the author lead to a comparison between slut movement and FEMEN, two groups that are very similar but also superficial in their politics. The female body is a contextualize product of the relationship between capitalism, patriarchy, and other system of oppression. Slut Walk and FEMEN should be praised for highlighting the female body as a site of struggle. However both forms of protest are particulary week when it comes to re - appropriate patriarchal signifiers. This is not a new strategy, Missile Dick Chicks for example, used the female body to perform a middle class housewife in support of war, while wearing missile dildos.  Looking at FEMEN and Slut Walk their protest embrace ideals of sexuality through performance. However, the overall failure of mockery and irony to their approach, means that is commonly read as a repetitive of such norms rather than subversive. Although, at first glance these protests may seem anti - feminist they are the embodiment between "post feminism" and "third wave feminism" which they have many common characteristics in relation to the body politics. Post - feminists women embrace sex and body freedom while "third wave feminism" focus in the individuality and freedom of choice. Slut Walk challenge the word "slut" and other words around sexuality. Photos of Slut Walks shows a fusion of costumes, performance and sexual expression similar to pride. They embrace mainstream pornography and seek to capture the males gaze. FEMEN was founded in Ukraine initial focusing on sex tourism. They held topless protests that serve to reinforce the image of the sexualized woman. With the message "our body is our manifesto" they are reclaiming their naked breasts. Looking at FEMEN and Slut Walk the following questions emerge. whose bodies are sexual fit ? and what constitutes the desirable female body ? Both groups luck diversity. The overall "whitness" have discourage women who are located within this communities, more over both FEMEN and Slut Walk show superficial presence in their politic.

While western social values changing and tend towards equality they have not yet resolved the problem of sexualization and objectification of the female body. In the case of the japanese cartoons many female characters still project this sexualization. The oversexualize of female characters in manga and anime remains a hot topic. Female characters are depicted as fragile characters that are usually in a supportive role and designed in order to attract the male gaze. In Hayao Miyazaki's movies characters like princes Mononoke, Chihiro from spirited away, and Sophie from howls moving castle, project a totally different image of a female protagonist. Despite their difference in personality, age, and world Miyazaki made his protagonists to appreciate and celebrate because they were not sexualized and minimized through romance.

All in all, in an era where western feminist has shaped by politics feminists must take immediate actions and give meaning to these norms if they wish to disrupt them.

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Changing The World

Nicholas Mirzoeff, is a professor of Media culture and communication at New York University. He is known for his work in developing the field in the visual culture and for his many books on the subject. In the book he is analyzing the relationship between visual culture and activist practices.

Today people are making use of the media far more than before in an attempt to empower other people to govern themselves." With the need to read and view images in seconds, the use of  design in social media platforms play an important role in transforming the information. Looking back from North Africa to North America we can identify examples of movements that are making use of social media in an attempt to create visual thinking about representation and social change.

Societies like Tunisia and Egypt found a way to express their political opinion and made the revolution possible. Artists started to tackle social problems by creating messages and try to form a new visual identity. For instance, French self styled artist "JR" organized a series of portraits depicting people that participated in the revolution in an attempt to transform Tunisians visual culture. Consumers best respond to the first impression that an graphic image provides. When graphics are used consistently in media platforms the higher the chances of making a positive impact. Social media played a huge role in the Egyptian revolution. Most of the people under the age of 30 used Facebook as a key tool to communicate dates of action. Over 90.000 people "liked" the page and enable the movement to make a huge impact that led to produce new forms of visual thinking, from: street art, graffiti to video collectives. Grafitty artist "Mohamed Fahmy " used social media like this to archive and  promote his work by showing where and when his work was posted. Archiving documents is a key tool in creating new means of engagement. Many people are visual learners, and learn something when they see it instead of reading. Mosireen channel document the revolution in Egypt and thanks to YouTube was able to share to the people what was really happening in Egypt. In New York Adbusters a nonprofit movement used Tumblr to call for action people that overlooked  by  Wall Street such as young unemployed people. They create: "We are the 99%" a visual though that enable young people to share their stories throughout the web. At first the OWS made little impact to public, but It was the police violence that went viral that helped the protest take off. The Use of media meme where used by people  as a way to reinforced events. This set of effects from protest to social media and back to protest was an indication of how visual culture activism had involved in creating, performing and publishing memes across all social media in order to create political subject.

Today, we use visual culture to create self images and new ways to experience the world using visual materials and actions. Design plays a huge role in transforming  this information into visuals that will make positive impact to people.

Questions

- How does design address social problems in our society?

- What can designers learn from cultural activism ?

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Pornostyle: Sexualized Dress and the Fracturing of Feminism

Pamela Church is a reader in cultural and historical studies at the "London College of Fashion." In her article she tries to give evidence of a number of cultural trends that combine fashion and pornography along with examples that can be seen from reality television to celebrities, to fashion editorial.  Although the fashion industry is well aware of this new trend it is feminist that are troubled with issue the most.

This new way of "dressing" presents the body in a highly sexualized way that can be seen in Europe and USA. This sexy style has little to do with high fashion as it focused in mimicking famous celebrities. Celebrities have made the sexy look of short skirts, skimpy tops, and high heels acceptable and popular among young women.  This "System" has its own source of inspiration and body ideals which are very different from that of high fashion. Today, young women and young girls have stop reading  fashion magazines like "Vogue or "Cosmopolitan" to seek inspiration. Instead, they turn their attention to celebrities magazines that provide tips on how to accurate reproduce celebrity styles, while the hair and the makeup should be long, thick, shiny and the lips glossy. This new trend demonstrates its true influence when celebrities from the fashion pantheon adopt this style. For instance, Kate moss collaboration with Rihanna produced a self - consciously  "pornified" material. For the fashion industry this is a shocking outcome as "good taste" gives in to something that resembles soft porn.

Television is taking advantage of this style in order to boost its viewing. TV series such as "Fashion Police" passes judgement on celebrities, while In the case of British television, TV series "Downton Abbey" thought its high popularity and influence to many fashion designers, is not as popular with the younger crowd  as the other two TV series "Only Way is Essex" and "Made in Chelsea" where the actors can be seen wearing heavy makeup have glossy hair and even fake tan. Garment and beauty industries take advantage of the situation in order achieve profit. Many chains across Europe seek collaboration with designers and style icons who are popular in order make their productus desired by the public. Nowadays, the tendency to create cheap fashion inspired by the celebrities has lead to different collaborations. For instance, the Kardashians thanks to the reality show "keeping up with the Kardashians" eventually launched their own clothing line and body ideals.

Although, this new style has been discussed by the fashion industry, it is with the feminist scholars that this style is heavily criticised. Collision between women who supported anti - pornography  collide with feminist regarding the right of women to explore their sexuality throw pornography. All in all, it is essential to raise awareness to fashion scholars. Having in mind the current global recension and the global dominance for luxury brands it is impossible to predict the evolution of this systems in the near future.

Questions

-Are middle women adopt this new trend ?

- Which industries benefit from this new trend?

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Ethical Fashion

Anders Hang is a professor in the university of Denmark. His research focuses on ethical fashion framework and the ignorance of important aspects regarding the problem.

Fashion items today can be replaced with new ones instantly. This fast paced consumption is causing problems from environmental perspective. Over the recent years fashion industry has came into understanding of the problem, this is how fashion ethics has come into focus. Fashion is considered to be a special type of consumption, that is not aiming at functionality. As a result , it is not clear who the agents are, who needs to act ethically and which are the effected agents because of the luck of such actions. The article analyses the actors responsibilities and actions, and the process needed in order to increase attention to ethical fashion.

The main focus of identifying the definition for ethical fashion concerning unfair conditions and environmental harm is in the fashion industry. Given today's focus on environmental and social issues the fashion industry has invested in developing more socially responsible fashion collections. Although, the market for ethical fashion is growing, the global market for environmental friendly products are limited to 1%. The lower production cost in developing countries are strongly related to "fast fashion," low cost clothing that mimic luxurious brands. Fast fashion limits the time from production to consumer in a matter of weeks, thus enchasing greater disposability.  Ethical fashion is related to manufacturing - consumption - fashion design and trading. In general there is a trend towards ethical fashion but certain issues must be taken into account. Firstly, the consequences of fashion need to be communicated to relevant consumers. The media can play a vital role in informing the public. Secondly, when encountering an unethical product there is a delima and can lead to rejection of ethical knowledge to avoid dissatisfaction caused by it. Thirdly, western culture is a conflict trend that sometimes prevents ethical fashion from having an impact.

The fashion industry have no standards for ethical values. Sometimes companies promote their brand by using key messages like: "environmental friendly" or "eco green." This messages usually luck explicit meaning and don't provide consumers with information about the material or manufacturing methods. In order to understand which ones are harmed by the fashion industry it is important to identify the actors involved in. in the text actors are divided in 9 types: ( Marketing regulators - Supplier regulator - Consumer - Mediators - Designers - Marketers - Producers - Suppliers - Workers) . To place responsibility in fashion industry the article grouped producers - marketers and designers under the label "providers." Much of the harmful effects of the fashion industry falls on the "providers" of fast fashion. Focusing on high fashion provides and media can help change this situation since high fashion set the standards for fast fashion. Although, the market is quite small compared to the fast fashion industry, it is important  for ethical fashion to distinguish responsibilities between fast fashion and high fashion providers.

All in all, after identifying the actors and the way the influence, it seems that fast fashion is the one to blame in the fashion industry. High fashion along  with media press are social responsible on defining what is fashion and what not in order to help dealing with the environmental problem.

Questions

- Can designers using their positions  in the fashion industry help reduce the social and environmental gap between provider and client ?

- Ethical fashion correlates directly with peoples personal privilege ?

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City of Bikes

Peter Jordan was born in San Francisco. In 2002 he moved to Amsterdam. While living there, inspired by the history and culture of the cyclists he created his second book "City of bikes" where he documents the evolution of Amsterdam's cycling.

During 1970's Amsterdam was renowned as a countercultural hot spot. Many young visitors are attracted because of the city's growing reputation for tolerance for soft drugs - marijuana - hashish and diverge sexual practises. Although Amsterdam seems to be the ideal location to visit, for the locals the "peak for Amsterdam hippiedom " came in a difficult period for cycling. During 1971 the infrastructure at that time favored only the motorists. As a result the number of cyclists visiting the city dropped to 60.000 while the number of cars climbed to 74.000 leading the number of traffic deaths to reach the highest lever.

In the same period, an number of different protest started to emerge in the city, and it was during this period of crisis that cyclist rights began. On the morning of 1970 two dozen students began to pedal throw the snow to protest about the effects of cars to their city center. The protest was organized by the "De Lastige Amsterdammer." Besides them, members of another group called "De Kabouters" established the "Car elimination service" and began to raise awareness about the automotive chaos. Eventually "De Kabouters " manage to be elected as a political party by receiving almost 38.000 votes, leaving the other activists to continue this guerilla style campaigns.

The 1973 oil embargo in Netherlands was an unexpected turn to the cycling issue. With a limited supply in oil energy crisis broke up. The Dutch government decided to limit Sunday driving in an attempt to handle the energy crisis. Politicians started to encourage people to rethink their views about cycling. On November 1973 Amsterdam was transformed, within a couple of months cycling became a huge part of the Dutch culture. In 1975 members of various activists groups created the "ENWB" in order to advocate for the rights of the cyclists. Furthermore, the newly elected city council supported the cyclists rights by passing new laws about traffic policy which gave attention to pedestrian and cyclists and ultimately reduced traffic.

During 1975 and 1980 the bike usage in Amsterdam increased by 56% and the use of cars reduced significantly. After 1982 the government attitude change for the better. New infrastructures where built to accommodate accessibility to bikes and streets were re designed to favor bicycles than motorists.

Amsterdam was gradually changing, but the cyclists behavior started to cause problems. Checkpoints where established by the police and heavy finance were imposed to cyclist who didn't obey the safety regulations. After several campaigns against cyclist the situation started to improve but bike thievery has on the rise. The government issued a series of laws in order to prevent thieves from stealing and a campaign titled "Don't give thieves a chance" was launched in order to raise awareness and urge Dutch people to secure their bikes. The measures had an effect and eventually bike theft dropped in half.

Bicycle was always part of the Dutch culture from everyday transport to a symbol of resistance. During a period of 30 years Amsterdam cycling evolved from guerilla street protest to national pro - cycling advocacy that is now main way of transport for many people.

Questions

- Do activists and civil disobedience played a key role in shaping  Amsterdam the way it is today?

- Do you think today's urban planners to give priority to cars is still persistent?

[ankar93]

DESIGNING SYMBOLS. The logos of the Spanish autonomous communities

This Article will examine the logos of the Spanish autonomous communities produced by their governments and destined as a way of talking about the nation and how Graphic design was used as a vehicle to shape institutions logo using a modern European touch.

The Spanish political devolution in 1979 - 84 resulted in 17 new autonomous governments. Apart  from the national symbols (Flags, Costumes, Coat of arms) the governments felt the need to create their own identity in order to make note of their presence among voters. The re - branding of Spain produced more design led autonomic signs than any other country.

Politicians played a significant role in the invention of the new identities. The political devotion triggered different reactions and each case required specific approach as communities had different vision about Spanish political devotion. Socialists commissioned designers to develop modern looking logos, whereas, the Conservatives tend towards the preservation of the traditional symbols. Nationalists had ambivalent position towards both past and future.

Spain in order to experience democracy began to substitute old dictatorial symbols (statues, names of the streets.) New rules, approved to update the national flag, emblem, and coat of arms. For instance, the description of the flag changed and the national coat of arms replaced the phrase along with some symbols that reminded the old francoist dictatorship.

However, the case of Autonomous communities varied from region to region. Getting rid of the francoist signs was high in the PSOE's agenda, whereas in communities ruled by the conservative party  refused to remove public francoist symbols leading to additional laws that forced them to change them.

  During the Spanish political transition, visual communication was vital for Spain. The use of logos as alternative symbols rather than the use of coat of arms was extensive because they dictate the use of guidelines that lead to the correct use of the logos. In the case of the three commissioners: National parties, PSOE'S,AP all showed different attitudes in their design. The two communities of "Catalonia and "Basque region" where under the rule of the Nationalist party, yet the way the approached their logos was different. The first one had international orientation whereas the second one preferred a traditional approach. The  PSOE'S party try to modernized their logos to reflect a common attitude towards the reshaping of traditional symbols. For instance, in the case of La Rioja, the new logo kept some of the elements that could be seen in the former emblem, like the bridge and a river that reduced to a clear pictogram. In conjunction to the autonomous governments the conservatives maintained the coat of arms as logos. For instance, when they commissioned the redesign of "Galician" logo, they choose from a wide range of logos the one that was closer to the original coat of arms.

 All in all, PSOE'S played a vital role in the modernization of the Spanish regions PSOE'S branded the regions using elements such as pictograms and monochrome symbols to communicate with people and the rest of the world.  

Questions

 - Can we see examples of modern Heraldry today ?

- Today's  Spain tend to use contemporary or traditional heraldry  ?

[ankar93]

Ghanaian Barbie and the Fashioning of Identity

In this article, Carol Magee a specialist in contemporary art analyses the importance of costumes of Mattel's collection "Dolls of the World."  The collection is a perfect example of how Barbies were used to promote American - like consumption to the rest of the word. Moreover "Dolls of the world" made huge sales in US by evoking feelings like: Nostalgia and cultural identity, to specific groups of people that had a piece of the collection.

After her return from Ghana after a long time, Carol Magee came across "Ghana Barbie" in a store. Out of nostalgia about the place she spend time studying,  she bought the toy as a reminder of her time back in Africa. It was not long, after paying attention to the details of the toy, and reading  the information on the back, that she realized how important clothing is in embodying  the cultural identity of each country. Ghanaian Barbie is part of Mattel's collection "Dolls if the world" where over fifty countries are represented. This collection is targeting adult audience, as the toys are not intended for playing.

The world of Barbie is an economic empire for Mattel, where American like consumption is promoted through them. US is taking advantage of the fact, and try to promote their culture and values by tailoring toys to their local environment. For instance, Mattel's marketing of Barbie with a sari and other regional costumes are aiming the upper class of India, the people who have the economic ability to partake a consumers life.

What is more, a large percent of Barbie's are sold in US, which brings the questions of "How world is represented to America" and "How America perceives the world in relation to itself," not just how America is represented to the world. And this is where nostalgia plays a key role.

The continuing increase of pace in the twentieth century, many people started to crave simpler times. With "Ghana Barbie" one can recall images of an idealized past, and comfort the stress of the contemporary culture. Nostalgia, is the individual relationship with the: past - present - future. For Carol Magee Ghanaian Barbie is a souvenir doll. The detail in clothes and accessories make her a special toy different from the rest. For the writer it is a nostalgic reminder of a place once visited.

"Ghana Barbie" clothes are based on the textile called "kente."It was used by the Asante royalties and consists of bright colors and complicated motifs. This cloth is used as a way  to convey visual messages between the wearer and the audience, as each color and pattern combination can have different meaning. Today, "kente's " incorporation into African - American culture is incorporated mainly through clothes. African - American's  by wearing "kente"  the show their pride about African heritage and as a group within the American society.  "Kente" is an important aspect of the African heritage, that shifted from a clothe that only royalties used, to a way of identity an ethnic group

 Questions

- Are there any other examples of toys that were used to promote messages