Out & About in West Cork

[aughadownman]

Kilcoe Castle, which is technically a tower house not a castle, was the headquarters of a McCarthy sept called Clan Dermod. It was built in two stages on the tiny island of Mannin Beg during the 1400s. Like most of the castles in the western reaches of West Cork it was strategically positioned close to the shoreline where its chieftain could keep a close eye on the surrounding rich fishing ground that provided them with much of their income. The Gaelic lordship of West Cork ended in the years after the defeat of the Irish and Spanish forces at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601. Among those who were killed in that conflict was Chief Owen of Clan Dermod. In 1603 Kilcoe Castle was the last Gaelic stronghold in West Cork to fall to English forces. In the decades afterwards many of the McCarthys of Kilcoe Castle settled in continental Europe and their castle fell into ruin. Thus it remained until the 1990s when the castle was purchased by the actor Jeremy Irons, who faithfully restored it and gave it its distinctive colour.  Today, some 700 years since it was first built, it continues to rule majestically over the inner waters of Roaring Water Bay.

[aughadownman]

The ruined homesteads of Castle Island, with their magnificent views of Cape Clear and Roaring Water Bay, stand testament to a time when the island was home to a vibrant community. In 1837 Lewis in his topographical survey stated that the island comprised of: ‘141 statute acres of land, which is mostly under tillage and cultivated by the spade, producing good crops of wheat, oats, and potatoes’. He went on to say that it contained: ‘only 15 small cabins indifferently built’. The population of the island peaked in the years before the Great Famine and in 1841 ninety-two people lived on the island. In 1890 the islanders were at the centre of one of the great battles of the Land Wars when they were all evicted by their landlord, Thomas H. Marmion. For a time they lived in temporary wooden buildings in Derreennatra, just across the channel from their homes. Eventually they got back to the island and in 1901 the island’s population consisted of six families, comprising thirty-three individuals. Their surnames were: Nugent, Donovan, O’Regan and Leahy. During the 20th century the population continued to decline and by the middle of the century the island was abandoned. So, on a recent visit, we found only sheep, grazing contently, among its idyllic ruins and rusted farm implements.

[aughadownman]

This summer a good friend and I bought a punt. She is a traditional timber craft of 16 feet length. She was made by the Hegartys of Old Court in the mid-1980s and to me she is a thing of beauty. This development means two things. First, the waters of Roaring Water Bay are a little less safe for everyone. Secondly, and more importantly, it has given me greater access to the islands of the bay and it has allowed me to view from a new angle the numerous historic sites dotted along the coastline. While she will not be the only mode of transport I will use on my jaunts, many of my posts, especially in the summer months, will be a result of trips aboard this trusty punt.

[aughadownman]

Hello and welcome to my rambles while out and about in West Cork. In this blog I hope to share with you some of my experiences as I explore the history and the highways and byways of my native place. Most of my time will be spent wandering around the Mizen peninsula and the islands of Roaring Water Bay, but who knows where we and our sturdy punt may end up?