Dior Mamianqun Controversy
I received the following message via chat from a follower, that I would like to share here:
Hi, 小紫, do you know that Dior appropriates the modernized mamianqun designed by some hanfu brands in china? link of discussion about Dior 2022 A/W show on weibo: https://weibo.com/6323095999/LChcJyPTa?refer_flag=1001030103_&type=repost#_rnd1657858224778 , I think Dior indeed directly referenced the structure of how it’s pleated and inner cutouts of mamianqun which has a long history dated back to ming dynasty and influenced the shape of qing dynasty skirts as well, it is sussy, look how the DIOR model turned around when the skirt spread to reveal the split style, this is indeed the unique inner structure of mamianqun, a more rigorous examination requires DIOR to show the flat design, but Dior is not responding, it claims on the official website that this is their exclusive style launched this year, yet the same style of mamianqun has been prevalent among young people in China for several years, there are several taobao stores making exactly this kind of modernized mamianqun since 2018 or even early (metal leather buckle belt + fabric suitable for autumn and winter + long skirts), such as 四时景, 你好美荔, etc., I don’t know how to make it an anonymous ask for you to post my question but I would like to listen to your and other followers’ comments on this, thank you 小紫(also feel totally free not to post this one, it’s your blog and you make the call ❤️
Here is a screenshot of Dior’s official shop with the skirt in question:
And here are screenshots of the skirt being displayed on the runway:
Although I am not an expert on tailoring, it does look extremely similar to a Chinese mamianqun/马面裙 (horse-face skirt). Below is an actual modern mamianqun from hanfu brand 你好美荔’s 2018 collection, for comparison:
And here’s a reference sheet on Ming dynasty mamianqun history & construction:
Below is a summary of key points of Chinese netizens’ comments on Weibo:
Based on tailoring and construction, Dior took direct reference from mamianqun for this skirt
However, this is not necessarily “wrong” in and of itself. After all, fashion brands take inspiration from different cultures all the time
What IS wrong, and what is leading to the backlash from Chinese netizens, is that Dior is claiming that the skirt uses an “iconic Dior silhouette” (标志性的Dior廓形) and is a “completely new…fashion item” (全新的优雅时尚单品). See below for screenshot of the item description on their shop, using these exact words:
Personally, I agree with all of the above points. The act of a Western fashion house such as Dior taking inspiration from (or directly using) sartorial styles from other cultures is not new. It is also, in my opinion, not necessarily wrong - as long as due credit is given to the culture(s) that served as a reference for the styles. I do not believe that a historic fashion house like Dior is unaware of the existence of mamianqun. After all, even Princess Diana wore a Qing dynasty-style mamianqun before, in 1981 (x):
Claiming that the style is totally original and unique to Dior, even an “iconic silhouette” of the brand, is disingenuous in the extreme and deserves to be called out.
I am interested in hearing what my followers think about this. Especially tagging @fouryearsofshades and @audreydoeskaren who are knowledgeable about mamianqun construction and history. What do you all think?
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