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Day 1 of "On the Road"! Traveling to the Mojave National Preserve

(Beaver Tail Cactus Bloom, Afton Canyon)

March 10th, 2014 At 10 AM, we left the guest house of our dear friends Chris and Margot Tufty (Chris has been director of photography on MOST of Backcountry Pictures films) We were lucky it was the two of us – as there was an accident blocking up the 210 heading East – so we got on the fast lane and whizzed on by. Climbing the Cajon pass was the first time I got the “visual” that from when we came (Los Angeles) and to where the road was heading (Las Vegas) was IN the desert. All I wanted to do was drive THROUGH what we were seeing so we could GET to the desert, which was our destination. That was it. I, too, have held the perception that desert is just a place to get through on your way to something else The turning point (no pun intended) was when we turned off of I-15 East toward Afton Canyon, known by guide books as the “grand canyon of the Mojave.” We lunched at a picnic table in a windy spot, then took a short walk near the railroad tracks, then got in our car to drive thru the base of the “canyon”. Not quite the spectacle of the Grand, but mighty none the less. Sandstone walls, many shades of gray, teased me to come back when the light would be less flat to see them as pink. Here we entered that “zone” where time begins to slow down. The silence starts to envelop you. And what I remember I love about the desert tickles me onward. We broke the spell slightly when we stopped in Baker for gas, bought a few post cards and fire wood, then re-entered the desert “zone” along the road inside the Mojave National Preserve leading to Kelso (aptly called Kelbaker road). Once at the Kelso Depot we stopped briefly in the visitor center to buy some stamps, then when I asked where I could mail something was told, right over there by the trees, you can’t miss it. We walked by numerous sets of trees seeing nothing that looked anything like a mail box, got back in the car, and began to drive onward, when we noticed, believe it or not, a mail slot box for receiving and sending mail, right beneath, yes, another set of trees. We then followed the written instructions to the tee to the Granite Mountain Research Center where we were to spend a few nights and meet with Jim Andre, a noted botanist who runs the center; someone we sensed would be pivotal in guiding us as to what to see to possibly include in the film, and known by many in the desert as a “poet” of the place. Once inside the funky gated area, we were pleased to find ourselves off the grid, among these granite pilings of rocks, the moon about to come out, the wind threatening to grow in intensity and our hosts welcoming us, settling us in for the night, and showing where to cook our own meal for dinner, etc. We settled in for a nights sleep awakened many times by howling winds, sparkly moonlight, and dry desert air. We had arrived. This is the Mojave.

(David in Afton Canyon)

(The first day of our trip in the Mojave National Preserve)

#ThisistheMojave #granite mountain #los angeles #mojave #desert #afton canyon

Day 2 of "On the Road" with Researcher Jim Andre at the Granite Mountain Research Center and Ivanpah Solar Plant

(Ivanpah Solar Plant)

March 11th, 2014

Woke up to cold cold cold. The wind howled all night and practically shook the little cabin they gave us to sleep in at the research center. Made coffee/tea in the cabin using our favorite hot water boiler, then had a quick bagel and cream cheese in the common room. At 9 AM Jim Andre, the botanist from UC Riverside who runs the research center met us for a 2.5 hour brainstorm for the film. He is remarkable. Smart, passionate --- has lived there at the top of the hill nuzzled up against the bulbous granite mounds, completely off the grid for nearly 20 years now. He and his wife Tasha have a two year old and a three year old, and she has to travel 80 miles to take a shower or do a washing machine load. Water is scarce. Even more scarce now that we are in a drought. They talk about having had two “events” so far this year. We have learned that “events” is desert speak for some kind of weather. In this case – rain. Jim Andre is a botanist who specializes in desert ecosystems. His primary concern is that as many as 20% of desert plants and insects have yet to be identified, cataloged, or understood. Yet, we are losing pristine desert lands at an unprecedented pace. We are losing desert species faster than we can name them. We spoke about Ivanpah, the large solar plant developed just off the northern boundary of the preserve. Many desert aficionados are dead set against these large solar plants being built in the desert and David and I are just at the beginning of understanding why. According to Jim Andre, one problem is the technology may in fact be counter-productive. Construction alone of these large scale solar plants stirs up and destroys ancient desert pavement and soil, which in turn releases enormous amounts of carbon into the atmosphere. There is so much more on all of this we need to discover but this in itself, gave both David and me pause. After our meeting with Jim Andre which touched upon numerous themes and regions we might consider including in the film, he suggested a few places for us to see. We drove to the other side of the Granites for a short stroll. We found ourselves enchanted by a botanical delight of cactus, shrubs, flowering plants, larvae on tree branches and bees buzzing intensely in their pollination dance. We got back in the car to travel further north into the preserve and turned right down an unmarked god-awful road that meandered way too far over bumps and crevices to what we hoped was the Cottonwood Spring, a natural perennial spring that was rumored to have lush growth and flora. The road was too tiresome and long, we could only go between 3-5 miles an hour on it, and when we got to a spot where we could go no further, we got out and walked, exhausted just a short ways. David was game to walk further than I so I sat down on a rock to rest, and he continued beyond the bend. When he returned a half hour later I asked if he had ever made it to the Spring and he said no. We faced the hour and a half god awful road back to the black top before heading to the research center for dinner and bed. And the next morning, after yet another tough cold howling windy night in the cabin, we looked in our guide book to discover with some frustration, that we had in fact been on the correct road – that the Spring was only a half mile further. But we hadn’t even taken packs or water out of the car to make the journey. Better luck next time. Dreams of rocks. Cacti. Granite. And endless views to die for.

#desertsolar #ivanpah #MojaveNationalPreserve #mojave #uc riverside

Day 3 "On the Road" In the Mojave National Preserve and Nipton, CA

March 12th, 2014

We made ourselves a bacon and egg breakfast, said our farewells, and journeyed deeper into the preserve on our way to Nipton. We drove through and meandered around the Cima Lava fields – and up to the Aiken Mine – a classic ghost town of a place, where they used to mine construction materials, some of which paved the sidewalks in Vegas, and when they went broke, just upped and left without taking half their equipment – the remnants of which still scatter the place. Such is the desert for many. Just leave it like a dump, when you are done. One funny door that was left to a workers hut had stenciled in bright orange lettering DANCE EMMA GOLDMAN DANCE. I know who Emma Goldman is but was perplexed by the graffiti until I Googled it. Its a reference to an Emma Goldman quote; "If I can't dance I don't want to be in your revolution." Who knew?

We continued on to Nipton, where we were to spend two nights at the old, quirky Inn, in a tent cabin, known as the historic cabin next to a loud train that came by every hour on the hour through the night and an outdoor bathroom. Happy to have a shower, but sad to see the “floor.” Funkarino. Dirt floor. Felt like we were in a prison in the Gulag… However loved to dine outside by the cabin. David bbq’ed steak and I made a warm spinach salad. The bbq was made out of an aluminum catering tray. Much in the desert is thrown together like this, almost by hand. People make do…. Sat by the fire David built in an old steel washing machine tumbler, then went inside the cabin to read and sleep by a funky wood burning stove. Happy for the warmth. Listened to the trains going by almost all night long blowing their horns to warn the “drivers” on a road, our guidebook quipped, has NO CARS GOING BY! Gotta love the desert.

#MojaveNationalPreserve #mojave #Nipton #cima lava fields #Aiken Mine #ghost town #emma goldman #desert

Day 4 of "On the Road" In Nipton, CA and New York Mountains

March 13th, 2014

This was the most amazing day. In fact, the best so far on our trip. It all started off with a fresh authentic Mexican breakfast at the Nipton Hotel's restaurant. It is called El Oasis and is run by a ma and pa team that make the lightest bestest purist Mexican fare like what I had – huevos rancheros with little to no gooey cheese and homemade rancheros sauce. In fact, they grow most of their vegetables right there in a tiny greenhouse inside the restaurant since no veggies would survive growing outside in the heat and cold of this high altitude desert. Then we drove deep into the park to the New York Mountains for a day hike. A washboard dirt road took us to a magical place through a thick Joshua tree forest with mountains in the backdrop – up a steep canyon against granite walls, filled with sculpted rocks, to an old mine where we picnic lunched on a rock – and back again. Drove home well worn and filled with images and memories of the place we had just been. Dined for dinner at the same place we had bfast – only place in town. Then sat by the washing machine basin fire pit once again, this time joined by another Nipton Inn guest, named John Gerard – an up and coming artist from Ireland who has been granted to create a virtual world for a New York City art show on the Ivanpah Solar plant down the street. He showed us a photo he took of it and said, “Many religions have been based on worshipping the sun. These solar panels look like they, too, are worshippers. See how they are all leaning toward the sun?” Retired once again to our little “historic cabin” – freezing, so lit the wood burning stove to take the edge off, and dreamed of hiking up winding paths and Joshua trees, which the Mormon’s named because they, too, looked like worshippers, arms outstretched up to god…

#Nipton #new york mountains #ivanpah solar electric generating system

"Hoodoos" in New York Mountains, March 13th Day 4, Mojave National Preserve

Day 5 "On the Road" In Mojave National Preserve and ending in Joshua Tree National Park

(Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve)

March 14th, 2014

Packed up from the Nipton Inn and headed off for the day – driving south through the Mojave National Preserve on Ivanpah road. David and I were both quite quiet in the car. The desert was growing on us. Vast expanses filled the emptiness. Rough rugged mountains in the distance. Subtle variation of grays and greens of the plant life rushing by as we drove through. Turned left on a barely marked dirt road to venture up into Castle Peaks. Picnicked there then walked amongst the Joshua Trees with the peaks of castles in the background. Another filmable spot… Then headed back to the blacktop for an hour or so drive further south and out of the preserve. Sad to say goodbye. Needed gas so stopped at the first and only gas station we saw. Discovered we were on the old Route 66 in a hilarious, what turns out to be a landmark place called Najah’s Desert Oasis. Thrown into a sort of shock seeing so many people pouring out of busses, after spending 5 days in the preserve practically alone the entire time. Silly place called Najah’s Oasis visited by many passing through on their way to Grand Canyon or Vegas. Still outside, behind the tattooed bikers, and tired hot tourists, peeked a landscaped area with statued fountains pouring into ponds scattered with pink flamingos. The inside was a hodgepodge of a food area, and literally wall-to-wall sale items, everything from deodorant to Route 66 t-shirts and mugs. Got back in the car to points south – briefly stopping to photograph a chloride plant that caught our eye, because it built canals of water, to extract the salt, and we had not seen flowing water in days…. Headed on and arrived at night at our next destination – Twenty Nine Palms Inn in Joshua Tree National Park. Checked into our charming room, then meandered to the bar past Tim Burton and Helena Bonham Carter look alikes and other surprisingly well-dressed hotel guests dining by the pool, two many from LA, most likely – after all it was a Saturday night – to meet Paul Smith, owner of the Inn. He bought us a glass of wine and entertained us with stories about Minerva Hoyt, who years ago, helped preserve Joshua Tree and much of the desert – then when he said his good-night, David and I stayed at the bar to dine and fell into feeling like locals as we shared stories with other bar visitors – mostly regulars from the adjacent marine base. Went to bed and dreamed of the bar scene in Star Wars with its cacophony of characters, from many different planets, meeting and drinking and guffawing and seeing each other off on the next grand journey. What will the next grand journey of our desert sojourn be?

#CastlePeak #mojavenationalpreserve

Adventures from Day 5 "On the Road" at Joshua Tree National Park, Twenty-Nine Palms Inn, water canal at National Chloride Plant, and Najah's Desert Oasis Route 66 Truck stop.

#joshuatreenationalpark #twentyninepalmsinn #CastlePeak #mojavenationalpreserve

(Cholla Cactus, Indian Pass, Imperial County)

Day 6 "On the Road" in Joshua Tree National Park and Cholla Cactus Garden

March 15th, 2014

Went to breakfast early at the 29 Palms Inn to meet with Jane Smith, Paul’s wife, owners of the Inn. Had a lovely conversation about desert and the quiet place within that we touch upon after spending long hours, and days in the grand expanse of the place. We also spoke about how that is why some people do NOT like the desert – because they don’t WANT to necessarily get to a quiet place within. It is frightening to some. They don’t know what is out there. They might get lost, or find themselves without water or food. Or snake bitten. It is true the desert can be a harsh place. It is true, survival can be tough. But it is also a wondrous place. A place that feels so much like another planet when in fact, it is a way to see the planet earth in a whole new light. We departed through Joshua Tree National park, passing by lots of visitors, noticing how overly well signed everything was, in contrast to Mojave National Preserve where there is so little signage, most roads keep away the faint of heart --- Yet here in Joshua Tree, I felt the signage pointed so intensely to the upcoming destination, I often forgot to enjoy the journey and all I could see on my way to the next designated point. I did not miss, however, the glory of driving by Cholla Cactus Garden whose name aptly describes exactly what it is…

#joshuatreenationalpark #chollacactusgarden

Day 6 "On the Road" at the General Patton Memorial Museum

March 15th, 2014

Once outside the park boundary, we headed toward Mecca CA on Box Canyon Road. Took a brief side trip to visit the General Patton Memorial Museum, only to be reminded in a very graphic way that all the recent wars too, in the gulf, had their training grounds (and still do) in these desert territories.

(Painted Canyon with Palo Verde bloom.)

Day 6 "On the Road" Box Canyon Road and lunch in Painted Canyon!

March 15th, 2014

We winded back to Box Canyon Road and decided to get off the main drag and into nearby Painted Canyon where we delighted in the warm dry air, filled with a fragrant breeze --- to lunch under the shade of a red-rock cliff shadow. Like many before us have noted, this hidden painted canyon filled with slots for hikers to delight in felt far more like Utah or Arizona with those pink walls than California.

#paintedcanyon #desert

Day 6 "On the Road" at the Salton Sea and Bombay Beach, CA

March 15th, 2014

Then we headed back to Box Canyon Road, to eventually pick up the 111 around the East side of the Salton Sea --- beautiful in its own strange beaten down and smelly way --in particular Bombay Beach (as in Calcutta, perhaps??

#saltonsea #bombay beach

End of Day 6 "On the Road" at the Brawley Inn

(The Brawley Inn, Brawley, CA)

March 15th, 2014

We checked in to the Brawley Inn, had dinner at the adjacent restaurant, could not help but notice how close we were to the Mexican border in the fellow diners, food choices, and atmosphere, and fell into bed exhausted once again.

#brawley ca #brawley inn

Day 7 "On the Road": "Solar done right" with Terry Weiner from the Desert Protective Council in the Imperial Valley Desert Area

March 16th, 2014

Had breakfast at Brawley Inn with Terry Weiner from the Desert Protective Council. The Imperial Valley desert area is her stomping ground, so she was to be our tour guide for the day. Our car was packed for camping, with no back seats, so David made me a makeshift seat out of patio cushions that worked out just fine. And off we went toward the dunes in Glamis, one of the most popular areas in the country for off road recreation. We passed by a long stretch of green – a surprising color here in the desert – where famers grow numerous things like alfalfa, peppers, lettuce, strawberries, etc. For years, they have been using water from the nearby Colorado River, which has been dammed, in numerous places. Our first stop was in front of what, according to Terry Weiner, a very good example of “solar done right”. It was a coral of cattle beneath solar panels – used both to generate electricity as well as shade the cows. An orchestra of singing blackbirds in nearby trees completed the mini eco-system, as they, in turn, were able to feast on the cow manure or the seeds.

#desertprotectivecouncil #solar energy #colorodoriver #desertsolar

Day 7 "On the Road" Off-roaders in Glamis

March 16th, 2014

Continuing on our route toward the dunes in the distance, I was struck by the multi-toned beauty of the place. Far off along the horizon loomed the gentle yellow dunes, and in front of them, a layer of lava, volcanic rocky mountains. Then as we got closer, on the left of the road, which is BLM land, and restricts vehicles, began the soft hilly mounds of dunes, scattered with brush and vegetation, behind which stood the aptly named Chocolate Mountains. On the right side of the road, you can see the same set of dunes, but noticeably no vegetation, and scattered along the dunes, like ants, we could make out the off-roaders. This is the side of the road where off-roading is permitted. We turned right to take in the area at Osborne Point, before continuing further up route 78 to Glamis – the big attraction.

At Glamis, the parking area was filled with makeshift eateries based in RVs, where you could find everything from Navajo hamburgers, Crack tacos, bbq, fries, beer, T-shirts, and other paraphernalia. Terry treated us at one of these joints to a soft ice cream cone. We admired some of the off road vehicles parked in the area, many of which are self-custom made, we observed some of the riding along the dunes, then too off to continue our journey.

#glamis #imperial sand dunes #desert

Day 7 “On the Road” Chocolate Mountains, Imperial County

March 16th, 2014

We drove further to New Gold Mine, trying to find a place to photograph the open pit mine, but unable to obtain a view that was overhead enough to “get” it. We then continued our journey, taking a side trip off to the left where we risked going up the soft sandy side only to nearly slide down in four-wheel drive at a place that at least “looked” safe to descend. We then continued along S-34 and stopped to picnic in a sandy wash near the Palo Verde yellow blossoming trees "Palo Verde" and Smoke Trees for shade. Further yet, we ventured onward to a fabulous area in Picacho Recreation area to Indian Pass Road, a remote area where Terry had once camped. Here, we wandered up through mounds dotted with flowering Ocotillo, to take in the vastness, as well as sample what geologists call desert pavement – the black rocky area on top of the mound.

Made our way back to the hotel to dine yet again at our favorite hotel adjacent restaurant called the Aspen, came back to the room to catch the last 45 minutes of Baz Luhrmann’s Great Gatsby – and went down for the night to finally a good night’s sleep after many tossy turny nights previously due to wind howling, cold temperatures, and trains going by.

#NewGoldMine #PicachoRecreationArea #desert #the great gatsby #imperial county #ocotillo cactus

Day 8 "On the Road" in Palos Verde Mountains and Blythe, CA

March 17th, 2014

After a good night’s sleep at the Brawley Inn, we spent the morning journaling about our trip, downloading photos and doing a load of wash. Finally, some clean clothes to greet the desert dust! I even had a chance to do some laps in the hotel swimming pool. After eating a few sandwiches and packing the car, we pulled away by 1:15 PM. This was the latest yet to depart toward our next destination.

Jim Andre from research center in Mojave Nat. Preserve had mentioned that the Palos Verde Mountain area was a great example of “unprotected” but pristine desert, stressing that there are more pristine areas outside than inside parks, however they are more at risk for development than so-called protected places. Palos Verde Mountain was on our route to our next destination, so off we headed. Although the heart of the mountain area is protected as wilderness, the foothills remain open to development.

Using an outdated map and our odometer as the only way to decipher where to turn left off the main road, we found ourselves on a winding, bumpy road through some pretty rough and tumble looking rugged, craggy mountains. Good thing we had high clearance and four-wheel drive, or I am not sure we would have made it. We stopped at a little right-hand pull-off area where we noticed a crevice/slot in the canyon worth taking a look at. The day was hot, in the low 90s. David took off, with his camera to investigate, while I waited near the car, assuming he would be back in a few minutes.

I began to panic when more than 15 minutes had passed with no sign of David’s return. It was too sunny and too hot for me to quickly search for him. I was wearing flip flops (tough to navigate the slippery rocks with), as David had put my hiking boots in the sky box on top of the car, which I couldn’t reach. We had discussed earlier, that we would just drive and take a peek, rather than hike, so I presumed he would be right back.

I called after him…Nothing…

I could not help but remember that Australian movie PICNIC AT HANGING ROCK, where the girls took a walk after their picnic in a place not unlike this one, then disappeared behind a rock, never to be found again.

My panic lasted about 5 more minutes, before I headed back to the car to reach up on top somehow to retrieve my hiking boots, when I heard a slight rustle. Whew! It was David. Apologizing. Turns out he had found quite an expansive opening into the canyon once he had wandered through the rocky slot area.

We continued our drive looking for the correct turn off to work our way back onto the main road, but none of the roads on our outdated map corresponded to the names of roads we were coming upon. Luckily were able to use our intuition and the car’s compass to head south then east and found the road, quicker than we thought.

We made it to the Best Western in Blythe, asked the gal at the front desk where she thought we should eat, and she recommended a local Mexican place called Garcia’s, over the BBQ joint we had heard about. Garcia’s was great. We were happy. And we went back to the hotel to go sleep.

#palos verde mountains #desert #picnicathangingrock #blythe ca

Day 9 "On the Road" Geoglyphs/Intaglios in Blythe, CA

March 18th, 2014

Out the door by 8:30 AM to meet Alfredo Figueroa. He is an elder from the Chemehuevi tribe, as well as an historian. He is also a “tribal monitor” – designated to protect sacred sites in the area. He enthusiastically greeted us in front of his house when we drove up. My first impression is memorable. He is a spry man of 80 years old, donning a fedora and khaki pants, with big smile. He invited us inside, introduced us to his grown daughter Patricia, and we took a seat around his dining room table. Here we learned about the ancient sacred sites in the area. We listened to his wonderful stories and teachings about not only the better-known Blythe Intaglios, for which we journeyed here to view, but also the lesser-known intaglios not far from Alfredo’s home. Alfredo joined David in David’s car, I joined Patricia in hers, and off we went to see the lesser-known Intaglios.

These faint-lined Intaglios barely visible until you get up close, were in a place we never would have found without guidance. Once Alfredo pointed out to us the ancient etched lines in the sand, we could indeed make out the giant shapes of beings reaching up to the sky. In Alfredo’s words, this is a sign of their makers attempt to communicate with the cosmos.

These are not unlike the celebrated Nazca Lines of Peru, where Erich von Dä niken, author of "Chariots of the Gods" theorized that the gigantic geoglyihs were actually landing strips for alien spacecraft. No evidence of aliens was found, but a sacred monument to the memory of native artisans who created the Intaglios - said to be thousands of years old.

Unfortunately, the entire area bordering these geogliphs is currently designated for solar development by McCoy Solar Energy, LLC.

Yes there is a tiny sign very hard to find that reads, protected, please do not disturb artifacts, but my escort, Patricia was nearly brought to tears when witnessing how frail and invisible the boundary appears from where the solar development has raked the landscape to prepare for building, and the lines of the geogliphs/intaglios.

The proposed solar energy generating facility, according to McCoy Solar, LLC, a subsidiary of NextEra Energy Resources, would be capable of generating enough electricity to power approximately 264,000 homes. Also according to the developers, the majority of the project would be developed on public land administered by the Bureau of Land Management using approximately 4,165 acres of BLM land and approximately 469 acres of private land. However, no little or no measures have been put in place to protect the geogliphs on the land that butts up right next to the proposed development area.

The enormity of the Figueroa’s concern pressed upon us. Their need for money in the form of $25,000 is dire – to erect a fence around this ancient site. To protect it for generations to come.

We said our farewells, David and I promising to do what we can to help them, and drove on our own, further up the road to see the Blythe Intaglios. They lined etchings in the sand were far more defined than the Intaglios Alfredo and Patricia had just shown us. But then again, protective fencing surrounds them.

As we continued our drive North to Las Vegas, my mind reeled with the stories the Figueroas had shared with us. How hard they had worked years ago, to organize the migrant farm workers. How hard they continue to work to protect their sacred lands. How much they need our help in ensuring they continue to honor their heritage and the heritage of their people…How frail the signs of their past remains. How easy it all is to erase…

On our approach to Vegas, the skyline with so many buildings was a shock to the system after so many days on the road with only the vast expanse of desert before us…We checked into our hotel in Henderson exhausted, so dined in the hotel and called it a day.

#intaglios #chemehuevi #blythe #desertsolar #geoglyphs #henderson nv

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