Bad Bean Brews: The Siphon Pot
Happy International Coffee Day! I hope everyone had an opportunity to enjoy a fantastic cup of coffee. Also, I wanted to briefly mention that today's article is the 100th article in 100 days! Therefore, it's finally time to drop some siphon pot science.
I've been wanting to do this article for some time now, but I haven't used my siphon pot in nearly a year. So, this morning I pulled it from the shelf, cleaned it up, and brewed a couple cups of siphon coffee. While it may not have been the best cup I've enjoyed, the technique I used was a good starting point for further experimentation and produced a cup with a lot of complexity and French press like body.
The brewer I use is the Bodum Santos Vacuum Pot, now called the Pebo. It's a relatively simple device that consists of three main parts: the lower glass vessel called the jug, the upper glass vessel called the funnel, and the plastic filter. When assembled, the funnel connects to the jug via a glass siphon tube and a rubber stopper. I like this device because of its simplicity, but also because it can sit directly on a stovetop burner. There is no need to invest in a small portable burner.
So now for some science. Let me start by mentioning that I don't like the name vacuum pot, it's so misleading. This is a siphon pot...yes, there is a difference. When you read about or hear people describe the vacuum pot they always talk about the draw down process being driven by a vacuum that is formed in the jug as the device is removed from the heat. Here's the real story.
The jug is filled with water and placed on a heat source. Before the water begins to boil, the funnel is attached to the jug snuggly to provide an airtight seal. As the water temperature increases, the vapor pressure in the jug increases. Eventually, the pressure in the lower jug exceeds the atmospheric pressure and the water is pushed up the siphon tube into the upper funnel. At this point the coffee grounds are added and the brew begins. A small amount of water and steam will remain in the jug throughout the brew. This water plays an important role in the process because it supports the column of water in the upper funnel.
Once the brew is finished, the entire device is removed from the heat. Without a heat source the water temperature in the jug cools and the vapor condenses, dropping the vapor pressure. The pressure in the jug can no longer support the brewed coffee and it is the combination of atmospheric pressure and gravity that push the coffee back down into the jug.
As you can see, there is no suction or pulling during the process. The mechanism driving the water from the jug into the funnel and then back down into the jug is a difference in pressure causing the fluid to be pushed. Siphons work by pushing a fluid through a tube, and that's exactly what's going on for this particular brew method.
I mentioned earlier that this was my first brew in quite some time, but the result wasn't half bad. It's a great starting point for some further experimentation so I thought I'd share it.
Brew ratio: 15 - 1, 600ml water and 40 grams of coffee
Grid size: Medium-Fine (6 ticks on the Breville Smart Grinder)
Brew time: 0:10 stir, 2:30 brew, 1:00 draw down
Ground 40 grams of coffee medium-fine.
Boil a little more than 600ml of water in a kettle.
Pour 600ml of water from the kettle into the jug and place it on a burner.
Attach the filter to the funnel and attach the funnel to the jug. Make sure it is sealed.
Put the lid on the funnel.
As all the water is pushed into the funnel, remove the lid and add the ground coffee.
Stir the ground coffee ensuring it is fully saturated then replace the lid.
Turn down the heat slightly to maintain temperature.
Let the coffee brew for 2:30.
Near the end of the brew, stir the grounds one last time.
Remove the siphon pot from the heat source.
Draw down should take less than 1:00 minute.
I'm hooked. The only reason the siphon pot sat on my shelf so long is because it's a pain to clean. I'm excited to start experimenting again.
The result of this brew was a cup of coffee that sat somewhere between a V60 and a KONE brew. There is no paper filter here, so you get a lot of the full bodied feel of a KONE or French press, but without any bitterness or overpowering acidity. It lacks the sweetness of a V60, but retains a lot of the complexity you can achieve from something like a Kalita that allows for a more even extraction.
I elected to start out with the standard 15-1 brew ratio. Why not? I use it for almost everything else and it's been good to me so far. If anything, I may consider decreasing it slightly to account for the water that's left behind in the jug during the brew process.
Everyone has a different technique when it comes to the siphon pot. With every different technique comes a slightly different grind size and brew time. A good place to start is something I'm familiar with, pour over specs. For this brew I used a V60 grind setting while shooting for a 2:30 brew time. To be honest, it wasn't a bad first guess.
Boiling the water in a kettle reduces the amount of time the siphon pot has to sit on the heat source. Also, boiling the water and then transferring it to the jug allowed me to measure the amount of water I was using. It's always nice to add a little consistency to the equation where you can.
The most challenging part of the entire process, besides cleaning, is maintaining an appropriate brew temperature. It may just be more of a problem with the Santos due to it's large volume. What I found was the water began to enter the funnel early. A quick measurement of the water temperature in the funnel revealed 160F! Way too low to brew. It may have been because I was using a low heat setting, so I cranked it up and put on the lid. Taking a second measurement I noticed the water temperature had increased to 190F. Putting the lid on not only allowed the water temperature to rise to the desired brew temperature, but also prevented the water vapor to escape. After adding the ground coffee and giving it a quick stir, the lid went back on to help retain the temperature throughout the brew cycle.
The draw down should be quick, smooth, then violent near the end. Total time for the brew was 3:30, right where I like my pour over times to be. Despite the draw down leaving a nearly dry bed of coffee grounds, the siphon pot is still a pain to clean. Have fun with that.
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