Hey! I stumbled upon your site while on r/mountaineering. I'm climbing Rainier in September and need some help with gear. What do you recommend as a heavy layer? I recently purchased the Marmot Guides Down Hoody. Will this will be sufficient to keep me warm/protected paired with a hardshell (Thanks for the review of the Alpha SL btw, very useful!)? Whittaker and RMI guides recommend a 5th layer parka. What was your layering system like? Your feedback is appreciated, thanks!
The Marmot Guides Down Hoody looks like it should do the trick on Rainier! You will most likely only need the down jacket for summit day, we had ours on for the last little push and while we were resting on the summit. Down is great since it is so light!My layering for Rainier (and most of my Winter trips) is the following:Smartwool Lightweight Base LayerFirst Ascent Hangfire Hoodie FleeceMarmot ROM Softshell JacketArc'teryx Alpha SL HarshellMountain Hardwear Nilas Down ParkaGood luck on Rainier, be safe, and have fun!!
I'm blown away by the things you do. As an undergrad student, I thought I didn't have the time nor the money to do any of this, but seeing that you are only a couple of years older than me and are able to, it's obviously possible. What advice would you give to a broke and time restrained undergrad student with no experience who wants to get into mountaineering? PS: As a fellow engineering student, I would love to hear about your work, especially software and electronics!
Thanks! I was very much like you and really thought that I could not go out and do these kinds of things. Never tell yourself that though! If you really love it, just go for it. My advice is to start small and build up to bigger and bigger goals. I started just hiking small mountains and trails around central Massachusetts which meant it didn't eat up too much time and didn't require too much gear. If you do this, you will gradually build up your gear arsenal and be better prepared for bigger trips. Side note, I too was under a huge budget when I got into all of this. I was constantly stalking gear sites and waiting for things to go on clearance. I actually built a web app after doing all that so that I could look up prices on things I wanted all in once place. If you're interested you should check it out! https://meandmypack.com/
Vote for me here! #ClippedOnIssuu from RMI Expeditions Climb Memories of 2014
RMI Expeditions climbers and guides submitted their photos throughout the 2014 summer season. These photos were chosen as the best of each week. Which speaks to you as your ClimbMemory of this year? Share the clipped frame to vote for your favorite!
Change Your Perspective -- Reflections of Mt. Rainier Summit
So I've been struggling with how to write this blog post. After over a year of dreaming and working, how do I sum up a weeks long journey to Rainier in words? Do I focus on finicky little trip details? Do people even care about what I ate for breakfast or what conditions were like on the mountain? Sure, these details are interesting and will stick out in my mind for years to come, but for me, this adventure was so much more than that. So, that is what I want to share with those who care to read further into this post. To the dreamers and the wonders out there that humbly remain just that: you can do it.
As I sit here starting this post I find myself in a strange position. I am currently soaring high in the air on a plane back to the west coast as I journey to California to explore the high Sierra's of Yosemite. As I peer out the window now I can see the massive peaks of the Rocky's; their still snow capped peaks staring back at me. It was almost exactly two years ago to the day that I sat on this very airline peering down at the peaks for my first time. As an east coast native, it was my first time ever seeing snow covered peaks and a true alpine zone above tree line. At the time, my good friend and inspiration Rob was still an active outdoorsman in the area and I vividly remember landing in San Francisco and immediately sending him a text wondering if he was starting back at my plane as I flew overhead. At this point in my life, climbing mountains was but a mere fantasy I thought only professionals could accomplish. I was more the video game and beer guy; Planet Earth on Blu-Ray was my way of seeing this planet we live on.
Only several weeks later, after Rob's passing, I couldn't help but reflect on that flight to California. As I was peering down on this vast landscape being jealous of what Rob got to experience in this world, Rob was encouraging me to go out and explore. My biggest regret being that I did not listen to him earlier.
In memory of Rob, I started exploring the hills of Massachusetts and began seeing just how beautiful it can be outside. Several weeks later I even found myself visiting my friend Ariel in Alaska with Carrie climbing such snow covered mountains, breaking treeline, and seeing glaciers, all for my first time. It was hard not to get lost in the moment and double take every breathtaking view. My adventures continued as I explored the White Mountains in New Hampshire and the great valleys, falls, and groves of Yosemite. My life became changing dramatically in all kinds of ways, mostly for the better. I was active, appreciative, and eager to share what I was experience with my friends and family. Somehow I felt this was my way of passing on Rob's lessons, beliefs, and appreciation for this planet we live on (although, his modest self would be embarrassed to know it was for him!).
So that brings me to the crux of this entire blog: my journey to Rainier. Rainier, a 14,410' volcanic peak in Washington is a massive undertaking unlike anything I had ever thought I could accomplish. The thought of strapping on crampons and wielding a sturdy ice axe on a mutli-day expedition climb was something I had only seen in documentaries and TV shows. A year ago I decided that instead of dreaming and yearning, I was going to do it.
I decided to ask my good high-school friend Andy to join me on this adventure. Our goal was to embark on the Emmons glacier route up the mountain. While not the standard route, Emmons is the largest glacier in the lower 48 and involves an expedition style climb meaning we'd be carrying tents and cooking equipment up. We would need to establish multiple camps before our final summit bid. While considerably more demanding than the standard route, I felt the added challenge would add to the appreciation of the climb and the mountain. I wanted to experience the mountain for what it was; I wanted to feel the cold, the solidarity, the scale, and the accomplishment.
Our adventure started on June 18th, 2014. My stomach was filled with anticipation and excitement as Gwen dropped me and Andy off at Logan airport in Boston. After several hours of flying, our pilot announced that we were beginning our approach to Seattle. As I peered out the window I could see the volcanic peeks of the north-west peaking out over the cloud coverage. I leaned to Andy, pointed at a peak and whispered, "I think that's Rainier, it looks pretty big!". As we continued on, an even bigger peak appeared and again, I said, "No, I was wrong, that must be it over there!". Turns out I was wrong twice. I was sincerely unprepared for my first sighting of the mountain as its steep and rigid slops came into view: it was truly massive.
What had I decided to do, this thing was huge! I was staring down at the slopes knowing how high we were flying and how massive the peak was. I was just a graduate student who grew up in Connecticut. My most adventurous trip before my training for this climb was some weak winter car camping in my Boy Scout days. I'm signed up to do this?! Sure I had trained my ass off for months, but could I really do this? What if I was too weak, either physically or mentally? What if the weather turned out to be crap? What if something went wrong?
Our plane touched down and once again my nerves turned into anticipation and then into excitement. We quickly picked up our rental car and headed downtown to Seattle for a day of relaxation and sight seeing.
The next day we climbed back into our rental car and finally began our drive to Ashford, WA to the Whittaker Bunkhouse. At this point, it was all excitement. This was really happening. At this point, there was nothing more I could do but give it my all. No more training. No more planning. With each mile the car drove, I was getting closer to my dream. The physical reality of this as Rainier grew larger and larger only exacerbated the excitement.
We finally arrived at RMI headquarters and unloaded the car. After grabbing a bite at the grill (where we just happened to causally see climbing legends Lou Whittaker, Peter Whittaker, and Dave Hahn!), we headed up to Paradise for a quick jog (but really just an excuse to see the mountain).
The next morning finally arrived and we began our orientation with guides Seth Waterfall and Mike King. Day one was simple but exciting. We learned all about our trip, our route, and climbing basics like knot tying, packing tips, and of course, the all important blue bag. We finished the day by learning the basics of crevasse rescue.
Day two we headed off to Paradise for our first time training on the mountain (known as "Snow School"). We learned the basics of walking on ice and snow, and got to practice our crevasse rescue skills we learned the day before as we flung ourselves over a snow-blown cliff. The day was long, yet incredibly short at the same time. We spent most of the day on the mountain working hard, yet I never got tired of seeing that massive peak over my shoulder.
Day three presented us with more perfect weather as we were joined by our other two guides Robby Young and Alex Barber. This was approach day. Our plan today was to climb to around 7,000' and establish Camp 1 on the Inter Glacier. We parked at White River campground and began our hike in just below the current snow level. The weight of my 50 lbs pack strapped to my back seemed to be mitigated by the views growing ever so closer. After several hours of climbing, we finally reached our goal, dropped our packs, and began digging out our snow camp. I found myself relatively calm given the fact that I was now standing at a higher elevation that I had ever been with a year longs goal hovering 7,000 more feet above me. Andy and I felt strong after day one. We had trained so hard for this and expected the most physically and mentally demanding trip we had ever done.
Day four again presented us with perfect weather. We finally strapped on our crampons and planned our climb to our high camp of the expedition: Camp Schurman at 9,440'. As we crested over the Inter Glacier we finally got our first glimpse of the massive Emmons glacier. Its huge crevasses made you feel so tiny as you peered down on them.
Andy and I were on the first rope team with Seth meaning we were the first ones on the glacier. In order to reach camp, we first needed to descend just a little onto the actual Emmons glacier and hang a right up to Camp Schurman. I can still vividly remember my first step on this massive glacier. We scooted around our first major crevasse as well which was both terrifying and exhilarating at the same time.
After a long day, we finally reached camp, dug in again, and took a rest in our tent (mainly to get out of the relentless intensity of the sun).
Following dinner, we all met for a bit to discuss summit day. This was the day I was truly waiting for. I wanted this summit so badly. Here I was, 9,440' and able to see the summit from where I stood. Tomorrow I had the potential to reach that summit. I wanted to know that feeling, that excitement, that appreciation for myself. As we talked about how the climb would go, Seth broke out the less-exciting news: weather.
Conditions had been damn near perfect the entire trip since we left Boston. Summit day's forecast: showers likely with a snow level around 10,000'. Here I was, looking up at clear skies, but knowing tomorrow weather was scheduled to be crap. Our plan was to wake up at midnight, and head our for the summit there. If conditions were bad, we'd either delay the summit bid, or, if it got too late, cancel the bid altogether.
Clouds began to form around us, and we headed in for the night. I climbed into my tent, and tried hard to convince myself that I knew mountain forecasts were a best guess at best. They could change, or be pretty inaccurate altogether. At the end of the day, there was nothing I could do about it but sleep and be ready if the time came.
3:30 a.m. The sound of the howling wind muffled any signs of precipitation that was falling. Was it raining? Snowing? How bad was it? As I sat there half awake, I began to hear footsteps outside. Finally, Seth's voice came through the wind: "you guys want to go climbing?!". Fuck yes, I thought! This was it, summit day! We were going for a bid.
I threw on my layers, strapped on my boots, and headed over for breakfast. Weather was less than ideal, but not bad. Winds were high, and clouds were blowing through us, but we were going to make an attempt.
We headed up the Emmons knowing that if the winds continued to grow, we would have to bail and head back down to camp. Our plan was this: climb for an hour, take a 10-15 minute break. Rinse and repeat until we reach the summit. My plan was this: take each climbing session for what it was, knowing at any moment we might need to turn back. After our first break, winds were blasting us from every direction. While brutal, it was also beautiful.
Climb after climb, we inched closer to the summit. Soon, miraculously, the winds died down, and before I knew it, we were at our final break before the final stretch. At this point, I was feeling tired, but strong and knew I could do this. We were so close. But, I couldn't celebrate yet. Anything can change on the mountains and we still needed to get down as well. I stayed calm, yet hopeful.
And with that, about an hour later, we crested over the crater rim, and reached the summit. We had done it. 14,410'. All of a sudden I could see for miles in all directions. Nothing taller could be seen around us. As we stood on the summit, my mind couldn't stop reflecting on everything that had lead up to this. The training, the dedication, the appreciation, the gratitude. I finally came to realize how and why people fall in love with this kind of adventure. Standing somewhere were humans aren't meant to be. Somewhere the majority of people living on this planet won't see. Somewhere to remind you how little you really are in this world. That why I love it, that's why I do it.
After our time on the summit, we descended back to Camp Schurman to reflect and celebrate. Safe and sound in our tent, we relaxed, ate some well deserved calories, and watched the sun set on what turned out to be another perfect day.
Our final day had come and we began our final descent back down to the van. It was a bittersweet moment as we took our final look at the summit above us and left the Emmons.
We popped over the crest to the Inter Glacier, got a crash course in glacading, and slid down what took ours to climb up in no time at all! Before we knew it, we were back at the van, cracking open a beer, and truly celebrating a safe and successful trip.
So, now, here we are. Finishing up this blog post. For those of you who are still reading, or those of your who skipped to the end, let me finish off with what I truly learned on this trip. This entire journey, starting from that first moment I broke treeline two years ago in Alaska and ending when I returned back to RMI basecamp has done one (important) thing to me: changed my perspective on everything. I no longer look at the mundane outside as that. As I drive along the road and see clouds forming, I see them as something I can stand in, peer down on. As the sun sets I think about how I want to see it without the obstruction of buildings, trees, or cars. The mountains are both challenging and unpredictable, but they are also mesmerizing. For those of you thinking of going on a climb, I urge you to not think about if you can do it, but when you can do it. Don't just dream, do. Now I'm not saying everyone needs to go out and climb a glaciated volcano, but just try going somewhere solitary. Somewhere serene. Find a trail, a lake, and river. Take a break and find a moment to escape and really appreciate what is around us our whole lives. Be safe, and climb on.
I was trying to think what piece of gear to review next and instantly remembered I have yet to talk about my Arc'teryx Gamma AR Softshell Pants. I've used these pants in the heart of winter and now mid-spring and keep finding more reasons to love them.
Pros: The Arc'teryx Gamma AR Softshell Pants are a mid-weight abrasion-resistant soft-shell pant that live up to the Arc'teryx name. These pants are truly the most versatile piece of gear that I own and, since buying them, have taken them on almost every hike and climb I go on. The pants are very water resistant with very few seams to keep every considerably wet conditions out. The adjustable belt keeps the pants fitting nicely and comfortably. The burly double weave material itself is highly breathable and has just enough stretch to make climbing easier and comfortable for hours. The abrasion resistant material is also idea for rocky terrain hikes, mountaineering, and rock climbing in cold and cool conditions.
The "three-season" aspect of these pants really are fall-winter-spring in my opinion. These pants have kept me plenty warm even on a winter Mt. Washington ascent with -50 degree windchill with just a baselayer under them (provided we were moving). With 50mph winds, this trip truly put that aspect to the test. On the flip-side, I also used them on a warm spring hike this past week and found them equally comfortable and appropriate.
Cons: Honestly, I have yet to find one. I've beaten these pants up, taken them to extreme temperatures, rubbed crampons up against them by accident, and trekked through muddy spring thaw with them and they look and function like the day I bought them.
Final Word: Aside from looking completely badass (a little Bear Grylls even), these pants will keep you dry, comfortable, and agile at all times.
Check out the product page (or the woman's version) for more information and current deals!
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