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@beyondhealth
We made it!
Melide to Arzua, 20.5 kms today. Temperature 8 degrees on starting. Warming up to 24 degrees. A good temperature for walking.
The Woodlands
I loved this countryside. It’s peaceful presence. It’s solitude energy. It’s push and pull of surrender. Best accommodation so far at Arzua. A little apartment, just beautiful. Georgina and I had a room each. A nice way to re-balance within your own…
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Over the half way mark!
Well, five days have past since I have felt like writing. Our feet continue to take us places. A new day arises. We set off and go. The days melding into each other.
We left behind O’Cebreiro. Walking to Triacastela 20.7 km away. No accommodation was available here. So we moved on, to Samos, some 10.5 km away. Twas a cold day. Just above freezing. With sleet and rain. We just pushed on, our…
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Two days are never the same.
We have reached the end of day 3. All is well and in high spirits.
Yesterday we sweltered in 28 degree heat. Today it was a max temp of 11 degrees.
We have walked 39 km over past two days. Each day the terrain is different.
We reached O Cebreiro today. Yesterday we paced through beautiful countryside. From Cacabelos to Trebadelo. Vineyard after vineyard. With the vines sprouting their new…
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Trust!
We four set off, today from Ponferrada. Our walk today will take us to Cacebelos. A mere 17 kms away. Starting temperature 9 degrees. A tad chilly. We are prepared!
We left our small hotel room. Deposited our luggage at the reception. Where it awaits its transportation to our next destination. There is always that odd thought “I hope it arrives safe and sound”. Very quickly that thought…
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Reconnecting!
Waking early from our jet-lag sleep over, we shower, dress and pack up ready to leave. Firstly, though, nourishment and hydration is top on our list. On the dot of 8.00 am we step out and stroll. The city is slowly waking up. Left over litter from the night before, lay strewn on the pavement. Some streets have been washed down ready for another day. Others yet to be cleaned. The homeless asleep…
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A New Journey Begins
A New Journey Begins
Several months ago I received a new message to return to walk the remaining 200 kilometers of the Camino, that I biked last year. A couple of people had said to me, you will regret not walking those 200 kilometers.
I knew somewhere inside me that it wasn’t that, that made me return. Everything is always perfect. Sometimes we don’t know the whys and the wherefores.
So I am here again…
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Our go to at the end of a cold winter’s day, like this week, is to soak in the spa at 39 degrees just as the light goes down. A delicious way to finish off a cold winter’s day, to unwind and warm up. In nature, with the chirping birds and buzzing insects.
This week we have been joined by a couple of wood pigeons close by in the trees. They seemed to be swooning each other. I said to Roger the other night, they are our connection to beyond the beyond, the other side, I wonder what messages they have for us? He chuckled. Those who know Roger would understand the chuckle. He is a man very much in the physical. The spiritual world or receiving messages from the other side is not his thing.
Anyway, they arrived again last night as we entered the spa. We were discussing our individual theories of where we came from, how we were created, life on earth as a soul having a human experience. All the while our friends were dancing and flying between the branches. It was like they were part of our conversation. Their invisible voices joining us. I said that is interesting they are bringing us messages from beyond the beyond. Encouraging us to expand our awareness. To think outside our current realm of consciousness. Messages from our ancestors.
Tonight, again it was cold, we decided lets spa again, to warm the cockles of our heart. We have been in the spa for quite a while tonight and our friends the pigeons had not been present. I said, “That’s funny, I wonder where they are, they are not here tonight, perhaps there are no new messages for us, or we need to finish absorbing our conversation from the previous night”.
We sat for a bit, had a general chit-chat about our day. Enjoying each other’s company, winding down for the day.
After completing my 800-kilometer journey through the Camino in Spain, I said I would never walk it again. I would walk somewhere else, but not the Camino. Never say “never”.
Now I have returned home and life has settled again. I asked again the question to my higher self “what is next?”. Something gently inside me has been bubbling up, to walk the 200 kilometers that I biked last time. An interesting thought, that I had put to the back of my mind. Not paying it too much attention. A nice thought!
As we sat in the spa tonight and I said to Roger, a funny thing has been tapping away in my inner world, to walk those last 200 kilometers that I didn’t walk the last time, the bit that I biked.
Immediately, I spoke these words the pigeons appeared and disappeared as quickly as they came. I said, “there is my confirmation”! That is my next journey.
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Another chuckle erupted! As Roger says there is never a dull moment in our lives! Or what is she up to now!
That is the beauty of life!
Does anyone else have a desire to walk the Camino?
Food for thought!
Where to next? Our go to at the end of a cold winter's day, like this week, is to soak in the spa at 39 degrees just as the light goes down.
Coming Home!
Sitting here in my lounge room looking out the french doors over the deck, through the trees I spy the tui birds and the wood pigeons enjoying the nectar from the spring flowers just bursting open. Drinking in the elixir. Swishing through the trees. Magical. Harmony in nature.
Ah! to be home. It feels good. It has taken me a few days to let go of jetlag, readjust my time clock, and dust off…
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Leon!
20th June I arrived in Leon by bus from Sahagun. There is a small part of the route that I have chosen not to walk; from Sahagun to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos onto Mansilla de las Mulas and then onto Leon. It’s about 55 kilometers. This route into Leon mostly runs parallel with the busy highway.
Leon! Plaza Mayor getting ready to watch the world cup 2018
It has broken the spell of walking…
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From Villacazar De Sirga, a short walk of 6 kilometres to Carrion De Los Condes. Arriving on a Sunday! A rest day. My accommodation was in the village square. A handy place to be. Only bars and cafes open today. It was a day of chilling and relaxing. And to enjoy the atmosphere in the square. To sit and watch. To Eat. To Drink. To Sleep. To replenish! To revive!
Carrion De Los Condes occupied a strategic position in this once-volatile border area, and has retained its medieval atmosphere within its meandering side streets and was home to no less than 14 pilgrim hospitals.
The next morning I decided on a late start. Supplies were needed for my day’s travel. The supermarket’s earliest opening was 9.00 am. That was another first. My day usually begins between 7.00 and 8.00 am. Now that the weather is warmer, the earlier the better.
I was off to Calzadilla de la Cueza, 17 kilometres away. The day was hot, hot, hot. It was a long day’s trekking in the heat of the sun. I arrived worn out and exhausted. A solitary walk mostly. It was a flat featureless landscape with little shade with no water stops on the way. Just one foot in front of the other.
Calzadilla is a typical Camino village with a population of approximately 60, where the main street forms the way itself.
19th June I departed for Sahagun, 21 kilometres away. An early start at 7.00am to miss the heat of the day. Slight breeze today which was nice. Today was a pleasant walk. I find the first day after a rest day is harder than the 2nd or 3rd day. There were a few places of interest along the way! These little caves, called “Bodegas”, used in the past for food storage and winemaking. Too cute!
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I have been craving for different food. It pleased me, to see a sign along today’s route, that said: “I don’t know nothing but the 2nd bar is cool”. Oh! that an interesting sign. Often it is the first bar that you see, that you stop at! In the middle of nowhere. I wonder what I will find! Fresh salads, smoothies and the like, not you’re usual! Just what I ordered. Perfect!
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Today was the day I broke the halfway mark. Yah! That felt good! With a body still holding up well! That’s the best part! I have my trusty miHealth device with me. To rebalance my energy and muscles at the end each day.
Sahagun is a town full of ancient monuments and a popular place for a stop-over. Accommodation in Sahagun was a hostal (less than a hotel but up from an Albergue). It was a goodie. A refreshing gin and tonic to finish the day, along with dinner with Carole and Darryl from the USA who I buddied up with way back on the 12th of June.
In the morning I caught the bus to Leon, where I will spend 3 nights. Brad, has decided to join me for a couple of weeks. I will enjoy his company.
Half Way Mark! From Villacazar De Sirga, a short walk of 6 kilometres to Carrion De Los Condes. Arriving on a Sunday!
Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino. 18-kilometres. Another day of glorious sunshine. A strenuous climb out of Castrojeriz onto the Meseta, 1050 meters upwards. What a view to die for though. Looking back over the valley floor was enough to forget my breathlessness!
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It was like walking on top of the world again today. Bananas and oranges found along the way. Cuckoos and frog a calling and a croaking. The Meseta offering little shade.
Boadilla a small village declining in population, although they say in recent times is seeing a turning of the tide with more and more Pilgrims travelling Camino enroute.
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Today’s focus “quietening of the mind”. My mind is always with me. When does it stop? To be in my own silence! There were a few tugs of war! Yet somewhere in those last four kilometres, bliss reigned supreme.
Silence and Stillness.
A new day! Boadilla to Villacalacazar de Sirga, passing through Fromista, walking along the canal, a 20-kilometre day. 6 days in a row averaging 20 kilometres. The feet said I am feeling that!
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Talking to an Englishman at dinner two nights ago, he is averaging 32 kilometres per day. He endures daily suffering. Pain in his feet. Blisters. Knees and ankles bandaged up. Mr Spanish Ocker, one of today’s encounters, walked 40 kilometres yesterday. His motto is “what doesn’t kill you make you stronger”. Some people have strong minds. Is there kindness tucked away in somewhere in there I wonder? Maybe I am too soft! Food for thought!
Today I took the scenic route. A little bit longer by 900 metres. The other option was to walk alongside the road. Today I followed the canal with trees lining the pathway, offering peace and shade. Cuckoos and frog singing their songs along the way. It was a good day.
Arriving in Villalcazar De Sirga I spy a fresh and open-air bar. Clean, new and bright. I sat down to enjoy a glass of wine. Whilst, contemplating the day, atmosphere and view.
Villalcazar de Sirga is known for its hospitality of welcoming Pilgrims since the 12th Century, where it became a commandery of the Knights Templar.
A few more steps into the village square, only to find Mr Spanish Ocker, Mr and Mrs Portugal, Miss Germany and Miss Toronto. Another glass of wine enjoyed. Mr Spanish Ocker was touched he said: “it felt like family”. We wished each other a cheery goodbye. They took off to walk another 5 kilometres. I was glad to stay put.
Miss Germany was tired and was having a humpy day. She decided, that a taxi was her answer. The look of elation on her face when it arrived said it all.
You meet people, sometimes only for a few moments. There is a deeply felt connection, sometimes unexplainable, yet it is there. I believe we meet the right people at the right time for whatever reason. The reason why may be unimportant!
Timing! Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino. 18-kilometres. Another day of glorious sunshine. A strenuous climb out of Castrojeriz onto the Meseta, 1050 meters upwards.
Oh, the sun was shining today! I left behind Hornilles del Camino to head toward Castrojeriz. Amazing with the sun in full flight how it lifted my spirits.
I continued to walk the Meseta today. As I reached its plateau all I could say to myself was “wow, wow, wow”. It was like being on top of the world. Where the sky and earth met. Feelings of peace and plentitude arose. I continued to walk in that energy for 8 kilometers. It was stunning.
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The pathway was lined with piles of rocks, beautiful poppies, yellow and purple flowers intermingled with the stray wheat shoots. Then the same flowers intermingled with the wheat fields. A sight to behold.
It felt like heaven on earth, an amazing feeling.
I meander on, thru Hontanas.
I stop for a coffee and KitKat. Nourishing I know, but what the heck. This was a classic pilgrim village tucked in the folds of the Meseta.
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A cuckoo calls through the trees. Can you see me? The cuckoo call is symbolic of something significant coming into your life. M’mmm I wonder what that could be.
Then thru the ruins of Arco San Anton. I stopped here for a slice of watermelon at a little side-cafe. Delicious and mouthwatering!
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Soon I reach my destination for the night Caztrojeriz. I celebrated with a gin and tonic. 5 euros. Gosh, it was good though!
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20th day on the Road! Oh, the sun was shining today! I left behind Hornilles del Camino to head toward Castrojeriz. Amazing with the sun in full flight how it lifted my spirits.
Leaving behind Burgos, 13th June 2018 a special day, my daughter’s birthday (and Christine who is joining me for a few days on the Camino)! I arrive at Hornillos del Camino, after a 21-kilometer walk. The weather was sunny off and on. A bit on the cool side. Wearing my merino sweater most of the way.
I left behind the city environment and enter the wilderness of Meseta, a plateau plain above sea level. A place of peace and quietness with endless field crops and still the spring flowers shining their brilliance.
My favorite place of interest today was a small church. Its simpleness and energy made a welcome change. Here I received a Blessing and received a simple symbolic necklace, with the following message “Oh Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to Thee”. A beautiful gentle soul holding the light for others. There was no elaborate alter or cloister or gold adorning its mantles. No expensive embellishments. Just pure love and kindness emanating from within.
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A touching experience where I embodied a deeper sense of belonging.
Arriving at Hornilles del Camino was a welcoming sight. A nice glass of Vino Blanco to finish and celebrate the day.
A simple message! Leaving behind Burgos, 13th June 2018 a special day, my daughter's birthday (and Christine who is joining me for a few days on the Camino)!
Tonight I am in Hornilles del Camino. The past few days since leaving Belorado have been wet, cold and sometimes uncomfortable. Occasionally the sun peaked through. All wet weather gear has been used and safely tucked into my backpack each day. Just in case.
Leaving Belorado I walked for 11 kilometers and stayed the night a Villafranca Montes De Oca. A small village located at the foot of the Montes de Oca formerly a wild unpopulated area and notorious for bandits that roamed its slopes preying on pilgrims.
My hotel had once been an old pilgrims hospital, built in the 14th century. It has since become a 3-star hotel with a hostel for pilgrims. It is a place of special charm and a delightful place to stop.
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Here I meet David from the UK. He was happy but in a dilemma. Blisters on the heels of his feet. Happened when he on his day off wearing his “other shoes”. He was resting up for three days. Plasters everywhere! A sorry sight. He was worried about infection.
I offered him the use of my miHealth. He was not sure about that. He didn’t want to cause any more damage. I said, “why don’t you take off the plasters and let some air in so that can heal”. He wasn’t sure about that either. As the hospital had done the plaster job. They should know what they are doing, shouldn’t they?
I left him and checked into my room. Funny thing two days later as I arrived in Burgos, walking, or should I say hobbling, coming from other direction is David from the UK. He had caught a taxi to Burgos, removed his plasters. And, now was on the road to recovery. We chatted for a few minutes and I left him to find my next night’s accommodation.
From Villafranca, I walked to Atapuerca, 18 kilometers. I stayed the night here at a funny little hotel with a shared bathroom. It was a bit hideous. A one night stay. Another wet rainy cold morning. I shared my evening meal with Carole and Darryl from the USA. It was a good walk today, despite the weather, a few niggles in my body that come and go.
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Along the journey, sometimes I wonder am I on the right path? Always as that thought pops in I receive a message, a confirmation. I may not have seen a sign for a while. I haven’t seen anyone for a while. Did I miss a turning point? Or did I miss yellow marker or a signpost? It reminds me of life. Am I awake to the signs?
It was an early rise the next morning. I started off at 6.30 am. Another wet and bleak morning. I journey 17 kilometers to Burgos. Sometimes referred to as the Gothic capital of Spain. Famous for its Cathedral located in the historical center. Construction began in 1221 and was completed in 1567 with its superb Gothic architecture and embellished with great splendor.
I liked the energy of Burgos, with its wide paved streets, the variety of shops and its random street statues.
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12th June 2018
Three days in One! Tonight I am in Hornilles del Camino. The past few days since leaving Belorado have been wet, cold and sometimes uncomfortable.
Belorado! Arriving at the outskirts I am greeted with flags from all over the world. Where is New Zealand’s I ask? Can’t spot it anywhere.
A neat little village. With street art, the usual church, bars, and cafes. A wine for lunch in the square in Calle Mayor is called for. Beginning to become a habit! Watching the world go by. It’s nice to chill, sit and watch.
Belorado has a welcoming ambiance and tranquil setting with cliffs behind with ancient cave dwellings.
A small walk today. Just 8 kilometers. A serene and peaceful one. I was the only one on the road. A couple of bikers whizzed past.
The sun was shining on arrival. A good day to catch up on some washing. Cheap clean accommodation. Modern and simple. Kind and helpful people.
A quiet reflective day.
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Just me and the road! Belorado! Arriving at the outskirts I am greeted with flags from all over the world. Where is New Zealand's I ask?
Every day is different on the Camino. An early start again today. Overcast and grey. Summer is evading Spain. It is good for Camino walkers. No sunburn, No sweaty smelly bodies. Not so good for the business owners. Fewer customers. People from other parts of Europe stay away.
Today I walk from Santo Domingo del Calzada to Viloria de la Rioja. A walking distance of 14 kilometers. I arrive at my accommodation around 11.30 am. Feelings of guilt arise for stopping for the day and checking in so early!
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I sit in the square and watch other walkers walk on! Interesting how your view changes so quickly. Body and mind adapt to the larger distances. Then emotions arise opposite to before. Guilt! For not pushing on further. For not falling into line with others. For being different! Just acknowledgment is all that is needed. And then let it be!
Maria, my kind hostess allows me to check in early. The village has no supermarket, no bars or cafes. What will I do for food until the morning? On arrival I am told, no dinner will be served tonight here. You can go to the Albergue down the street if you like. You can be with other people.
An hour later. A misunderstanding, a miscommunication. You can have dinner here, but you will be the only one. You can have breakfast in the morning as well. Phew! Help yourself to the bar, it’s an honesty box service. All is well. I will be nourished.
I wander down to the Albergue. I ask “can I book in for dinner tonight”? “Yes of course, and where are you from?” “New Zealand”. “Ah, lovely.” “How much for dinner?” “It’s by donation”. She grasps me by the hands and gives me the warmest of welcome.
Today I walked with Ann and Kathryn from Killarney in Ireland. Two delightful 70-year young ladies. They have been coming to the Camino each year. Walk 20 kilometers per day for a week, then return home. We discussed the pros and cons of religion. The rise of suicide rates all around the world and perhaps some answers to these questions. We had a bucket full of laughs, hugged and said goodbye. Time passed by so quickly.
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Dinner was a small gathering, of 4 women. Salad, fresh and crips, Paella for mains and chocolate dessert to finish. Yum! A day of inner reflection and contemplation.
My walking pace is speeding up, yet my inner world is slowing down!
It all works out in the End! Every day is different on the Camino. An early start again today. Overcast and grey. Summer is evading Spain.
I left behind Ciruena early around 7.00 am and arrive in Santo Domingo De Calzada, where I am to spend the day. A very short distance of 7 kilometers.
I arrived at my accommodation hoping that I could check in early. It was only 9.30 am. With luck on my side. I was able to.
It felt strange to just be for the day. The day felt long. Nothing to do but chill, rest, write and laze around.
You leave behind your new friends. They have walked on. The void feels less now.
I checked into my room, shower and rest. After a while my body said it is time for a wander.
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I visited the local Cathedral. This village has always been linked to the Pilgrimage of St. James. It’s founder Domingo Garcia, desired to devote his life to God by becoming a Monk. He was thwarted by the Monastery at San Millan because of his illiteracy.
He went on instead to build a Pilgrim Hospital now a Parador and a church which evolved into the Cathedral. Today the Cathedral is not used as a Church, now a tourist attraction with a museum attached.
I bumped into one of the Belgium ladies. She has stayed behind here too. Her feet are giving her trouble. She too is resting up. Her friend has walked on. They will catch up in a day or two.
They were both looking for someone to walk the Camino with. Didn’t know each other before their walk. Both their husbands had been reluctant for them walk alone. So they buddied up. Now they have separated. Each walk alone for a few days. The Way throws in unexpected experiences. Probably just what we each need at the right moment in time.
I meander out later in the afternoon. An early dinner. I find myself sipping a glass of wine in a nearby bar cafe. I wonder what is on their dinner menu. I ask, is there a menu written in English? Yes, on checking out the menu, I decided to eat here.
Dinner was good. I was brought a bottle of wine. Mmmmm, I don’t think I will drink all that. Could I just have a glass instead? Oh, that comes with the 11 euro cost. A three-course meal plus a bottle of wine. Amazing! With three-quarters of the bottle still intact I ask a group of Spanish girls if they would like to finish the wine. They couldn’t have cared less. A bottle of wine is the same price as a large bottle of aqua (water). Wine is so cheap in Spain!
A Rest Day! I left behind Ciruena early around 7.00 am and arrive in Santo Domingo De Calzada, where I am to spend the day.