Bombardini's

I made this. I ate this.

[bombardinis]

Mellow Yellow (Fresh butter)

WHAT IT IS: fresh butter without any churning. Ok, there is little manual labor.

INGREDIENTS:

heavy cream (preferably room temp)

salt

large mason jar or some kind of jar

HOW TO MAKE IT:

add about 1 cup (or more, depending on how much butter your want) into mason jar. TIGHTLY secure lid. Now shake like the dickens. Shake vigorously for about 3-4 minutes. The cream will start to separate, start to look like whipped cream a little. Shake beyond that and it will turn into butter. Magic!

Now, there will be butter in your jar but the liquid that remains is buttermilk. Drain off the buttermilk (save it if you’d like and use it as you would buttermilk). Add about 1/3 cup fresh water to the butter jar, re-secure lid and shake again for a bit, to “wash” off the buttermilk. Drain again. Wash again if desired. Leaving behind buttermilk will make the butter spoil faster. Now just mix in a pinch or two of kosher salt (if desired) and use right away or keep in the fridge. Salt will also prolong spoilage. Butter!

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Champion Sandwich (Banh Mi Again)

I did a banh mi post a while back and it was fine BUT this one is better. And a little different. And bahn mi really is one of the greatest sandwiches of all time. Variation from Chef John on Foodwishes.com

Ingredients:

pork tenderloin, trimmed of silver skin & shallow cross hatch cuts

chinese five spice powder

french bread loaf

mayo

sriracha

hoisin sauce

toppings (cilantro, cucs, jalapeno (stemmed and seeded), daikon radish, carrots, pate if you have it around)

How to make it:

season pork with salt and pepper and chinese five spice powder. brown pork in oil in a hot skillet over medium high heat. transfer to a preheated 450 degree oven and cook until tenderloin reaches 145 degrees. Transfer to cutting board and let rest 10 mins before slicing.

for a quick pickle crunch: combine carrots and daikon radish with about 1 tblsp of rice vinegar and a bit of salt. set aside til needed.

Meanwhile, prepare you bread. Cut french bread into 12 inch loaves (this is a recipe for two sammies), cut in half, remove some of the bread inside the loaf to make room for all the toppings and meat. Combine 1/3 cup  mayo and good heavy spoonful of hoisin sauce and sriracha to taste and spread liberally on the inside of each loaf.

bake bread, open faced, in a 400 degree oven for about 7-10 mins.

slice your pork tenderloin thinly as possible. assemble sandwich with sliced pork, cilantro stems and leaves, cucumber, pate (I had some leftover duck pate), jalapeno, pickled carrots and radish.

Eat, you Champion.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Stop Vilifying All Bread (Overnight White Wheat Bread)

WHAT IT IS: Okay. Okay. Listen. I’m been making this bread for a while now and I haven’t been quite ready to share it. But I think I’m ready. Are you ready? I think you’re ready. This requires a dutch oven. And ideally, a very large tub with a lid. Other than that, all you need is flour, water, salt, and yeast. And time. Lots of time. And patience maybe. And love? Sure, love is always a great addition to bread. As luck would have it, there is the cookbook of the same name, which has become my bread bible ( Flour Water Salt Yeast by Ken Forkish).

This is the way bread used to be made, before we industrialised the process and didn’t let it ferment. Grocery store bread is typically mixed and baked in as little as 2 hours. So yes, of course that stuff will not make you feel good.

INGREDIENTS: (makes two loaves)

1,000 grams all purpose white wheat flour (white flour is also wheat, so I’m calling it “white wheat flour”) I’m using grams because if you want to take baking seriously, you should be using grams, which if you don’t have a digital scale, then get a digital scale. BUT if you don’t have a scale, 1,000 grams is about 7 3/4 cups

780 g water, 90-95 degrees, or 3 1/3 cups

22 grams kosher or sea salt,  or 1 tbslp + 1 tsp

.80 grams instant dried yeast, or little more than 1/4 tsp

HOW TO MAKE IT:

Combine flour and water in a large tub until well mixed. Let rest for 20-30 mins, covered.

Add salt and yeast on top of dough mixture. Wet your hand so the dough doesn’t stick to you. Gently pull the dough and fold it over the salt and yeast. Repeat a few times until the salt and yeast are fully enclosed.

Using what Ken calls the “pincer method”, incorporate the salt and yeast fully into the dough by using your thumb and forefinger and making five or six “pinches” or cuts across the dough. Then fold that dough across itself and repeat the pincer method. If you need a visual, Ken has videos. Cover tub and let dough relax.

This dough needs two to three folds in the first 1 1/2 hr after its initial mix. So about 30 mins after mixing, give it a fold. After the last fold, cover and let rise overnight, 12-14 hours, or until it’s 2 1/2 - 3 times it’s original size.

Carefully transfer dough out of the container onto a lightly floured counter. Divide into two even portions. Flour hands. Handling the dough carefully (those air bubbles are your friends!), fold the dough about three times in on itself and flip, to create a seam. Now, it’s best to watch the Ken Forkish videos, but now drag the dough ball towards the edge of the counter, letting it tighten as you do, and giving it a quarter turn with each drag, until it feels nice and tight. Transfer to bowl or basket and cover with produce bag to let it proof for 1 hr or 1 1/4 hr. Repeat with other dough portion. meanwhile, preheat your oven to 450-475 degrees. Oven needs to be real hot. Preheat your dutch ovens for about 30 mins prior to baking bread.

How do you know your dough is ready? Use the “finger dent” test. Lightly flour a section of the dough. Poke it. If it springs back but not completely, it’s ready. if it springs immediately, it needs more time. if it doesn’t spring back at all, you’ve gone too far.

On a lightly floured counter, overturn your dough. Transfer to preheated dutch oven (I like to line it with parchment paper to help prevent burning), seam side down. Cover and bake for 30 mins. Remove cover and bake another 20 mins or more, until crust develops a dark crust. Carefully remove from dutch oven and let cool completely, preferably on a wire rack or something with good air flow.

Cool. You just made some real, ancient bread that won’t hurt your tummy.

[bombardinis]

You Should Probably Call it a Comeback

So...hi. Hello. I’ve been gone for a while. Sorry about that. Again, not that the internet cared. But let’s try this one more time with feeling. Bombardini’s: sporadic at best.

Also, I recently made Bombardini’s an actual physical thing. Like had a kind of supper club in my apartment and had an eight course meal, loosely and not so loosely structured around comfort foods in my past and present. I hope to do it again.

+Libations+

Paper Plane- four roses bourbon, campari, amaro, lemon, shaken, up

Boulevardier- four roses bourbon, sweet vermouth, quinquina, stir, up

Aviation- plymouth gin, luxardo, creme de violette, lemon, shake, up

Frank the Rabbit- uncle val’s gin, lemon, honey simple, egg white, shake, up

Antedeluvian- old overholt rye, spicy coriander simple, bitters, rock

+Plates+

10 Cent Wings- honey sriracha sauce, herb buttermilk ranch, pickled carrot, celery and daikon radish

Tomato Bisque- parmesan crisp toast, sour cream dill cucumbers

Shrimp Cocktail- herb and wine poached shrimp, house made cocktail sauce, pickled fennel and radish salad

Bolognese Ragu- Marcella Hazan adaptation with creamy herb polenta

BLT- house made bread, thick cut bacon, apple cider vinegar aioli, arugula, tomato jam

Cochinita Pibil- braised pork shoulder with achiote, banana leaf, pickled red onion, tortillas

Toad in the Hole- charred brussel sprouts and cauliflower, fried capers, poached egg

Donuts and Coffee- cinnamon and sugar donut muffin, lemon raspberry jam, vanilla cardamom ice cream, coffee (anjilanaka, bolivia, intelligensia)

[bombardinis]

Countdown to Meatball Sandwich (Arugula Garlic Pesto)

WHAT IT IS: I’m going to use this pesto spread on an epic meatball sandwich recipe from Bar Tartine. Keep in mind I never use the word epic to describe anything, so you know I’m serious.

INGREDIENTS:

1/4 cup chopped garlic

1/4 cup chopped arugula

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup chopped basil

1/4 cup toasted pine nuts, lightly toasted

3 tblsp olive oil

2 tsp lemon juice

2-3 tblsp grated parmigiano-reggiano

1/4 tsp salt

pepper to taste

HOW TO MAKE IT:

combine all ingredients in a food processor, blender (or use an immersion blender like I did).  Blend into a smooth paste. Salt and pepper to taste.

I’m going to use this on a meatball sandwich but it can be used in pasta, eggs, or chicken (or or or or). It’s heavy on the garlic so beware...

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Ra the Sun God (Orange Margarita)

WHAT IT IS: a orange flavored margarita. Duh.

INGREDIENTS:

2 oz tequila

1 oz fresh orange juice

1/2 oz fresh lime or lemon juice

1/2 oz triple sec or orange liqueur equivalent (optional)

1/4 oz simple syrup (optional)

pinch of salt (optional)

HOW TO MAKE IT:

shake all ingredients in a cocktail tin and double strain into a salted chilled glass (over ice if you want).  This would be better (and look cooler) with a blood orange but whatever.

[bombardinis]

Ginger Lickin (Ginger Scallion Sauce)

WHAT IT IS: adapted from the Momofuku cookbook. It’s less a sauce than it is a kind of condiment. Use on meat, fish, chicken wings, noodles, rice, vegetables, and everything ever.

INGREDIENTS:

2 bunchs of scallions, greens and whites, sliced thinly

1/2 cup peeled and minced fresh ginger root

1/4 cup of grapeseed oil or other neutral oil

1 1/2 tsp light soy sauce

1 tsp white wine vinegar or rice wine vinegar (unseasoned)

3/4 to 1 tsp kosher salt

HOW TO MAKE IT:

combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. adjust salt to taste. if you can, let it sit for about 20 mins or so before serving. 

-schuyler-

Notes: a splash of fish sauce never hurt anyone. I think I added a very  very small clove of minced garlic. I tend to use a bit more than 1 tsp of vinegar cause I’m a vinegar freak.

[bombardinis]

Guns Blazin (French 75)

WHAT IT IS: a WWI era cocktail (named after the French 75mm field gun), this is a celebratory drink with sugar, lemon juice, gin, and some bubbly.

INGREDIENTS:

1 oz gin

1/2 oz lemon juice

1/2 oz simple syrup (I used ginger simple syrup)

top off with cava, prosecco, or champagne

HOW TO MAKE IT:

Shake all ingredients except bubbly in cocktail tin. Double strain into a chilled flute. Top with bubbly. Lemon twist garnish. Celebrate.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

The Big Chil(i) (Classic American-Style Chili)

WHAT IT IS: the stuff you grew up eating (if you were, ya know, white and lower-middle class). My mom often served this over white rice, probably to make it go farther. Fatty ground chuck with beans and tomatoes. Tastes like childhood.

DIFFICULTY: Easy, just takes 2 hrs to cook is all

INGREDIENTS:

2 lbs ground chuck (85% lean or less. Get the fatty stuff or the meat with be tough and chewy)

2 yellow onions, finely diced

1 red and green bell peppers, diced

6-8 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1/4 cup chili powder

1 tsp espresso powder (optional)

1 tblsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp red pepper flakes

1 1/2 tsp oregano

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1 can pinto beans, drained

1 can dark red kidney beans, drained

1 (28oz) can diced tomatoes

1 (280z) can tomato puree

salt and pepper

HOW TO MAKE IT:

Heat about 2 tblsp of vegetable oil in a heavy pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, peppers, garlic, chili powder, cumin, espresso, coriander, red pepper flakes, oregano, and cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring once in a while, until veggies are soft, about 10 mins.

Increase heat to med-high and add 1 lb of the ground chuck and cook for about 3-4 mins or until no longer pink. Add rest of ground chuck and cook until no longer pink.

Add beans, tomatoes, tomato puree, and about 1/2 tsp of salt. Stir, bring to a boil, the lower heat to a simmer. Cover, stirring occasionally, and simmer for 1 HOUR. Remove cover and simmer an additional 1HOUR, stirring occasionally. If the chili begins to look dry, add up to a 1/2 cup of water. Salt and pepper to taste (you’ll probably need more salt so don’t forget to taste before serving.)

Serve with white rice (optional) and ALL THE FIXINS: cilantro, lime wedges, diced avocado, sour cream, shredded cheddar cheese, scallions or diced red onions, and toasted bread (all on the side).

-schuyler-

Notes: This chili is great for leftovers, esp on a baked potato...or fries...or hot dog...really anything you’d normally use chili for.

[bombardinis]

Delicious but Annoying (Vegetable Risotto)

WHAT IT IS: this is my first time making risotto and I think it turned out pretty well, if not a little time consuming. Used this Cook’s Illustrated recipe as a guide.

INGREDIENTS:

1 lb asparagus, cut to 1/2 inch pieces, rough stalk ends set aside

2 medium leeks, white and light green parts washed and sliced thin, rough green parts chopped and set aside

2 tblsp chopped parsley, plus reserved stems

2 tblsp chopped mint, plus reserved stems

1 tsp lemon zest

4 cups chicken broth

3 cups water

5 tblsp butter

salt and pepper

1/2 cup frozen peas

2 garlic gloves, minced

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup parmesan cheese

2 tsp lemon juice

HOW TO MAKE IT:

Make the broth that you’ll be using for the risotto: combine asapargus stalks, green part of the leeks, mint and parsley stems, broth and water in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to medium-low heat and simmer for 20 mins. Strain through a fine mesh strainer and keep warm over low heat.

Heat 1 tblsp of butter over medium heat and cook asparagus until tender, 4-6 mins, Add peas and cook for about 1 minute. Set aside.

Melt 3 tblsp of butter in dutch oven or pot, add leeks and 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp pepper and cook for about 5 mins, stirring occasionally. Add rice, stirring constantly, for about 3 mins. Add wine and cook until wine is fully absorbed, about 2-3 mins. 

When wine is absorbed, add 3 cups of warm broth to the rice. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 12 mins, or until broth is fully absorbed and bottom of the pot is nearly dry.

Stir in 1/2 cup of broth, stirring constantly, up broth is absorbed, about 3 mins; repeat 3 or 4 times or until rice is al dente. Off heat, stir in parmesan cheese, lemon juice and 1 tblsp butter. Fold in peas and asparagus. Add up to a 1/4 cup of broth to loosen risotto if you want. Serve with gremolata (chopped parsley, mint, and lemon zest).

[bombardinis]

#NeverFail (Banana Bread)

WHAT IT IS: Mom has been using this banana bread recipe for as long as she can remember. It’s called Never Fail Banana Bread from a school fundraiser cookbook from the days of waybackwhen. Follow all the steps exactly!

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup softened butter

1 cup sugar

1 egg, beaten

1/2 tsp baking soda

3 tblsp whole milk

1 cup super soft mashed banana (use near black bananas)

2 cup flour

1 tsp baking powder

pinch of kosher salt

chocolate chips or chopped nuts optional

HOW TO MAKE IT:

“Cream butter and sugar, add beaten egg. Dissolve baking soda in milk, combine with banana. Add to butter mixture. In another bowl, combine flour and baking powder. Mix dry ingredients with wet banana mixture. Fold in nuts or chocolate chips if desired. Bake at 350 for 40-50 minutes.” This is in quotes because it’s taken from this cookbook exactly.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

DIY Part Three (Pickled Jalapenos)

WHAT IT IS: while pickled jalapenos are very cheap to buy, it’s always fun to pickle stuff, so ya know, pickle this stuff.

INGREDIENTS:

about 8 jalapenos

1 medium carrot, peeled

1/2 red onion

1 cup water

1 cup white vinegar

2 tblsp salt

1 tblsp sugar

10 black peppercorns lightly crushed

1 garlic clove, crushed

HOW TO MAKE IT:

add vinegar, water, sugar, salt, garlic, and peppercorns to a saucepan over medium heat. Heat until sugar and salt have dissolved.

add jalapenos, carrots, and onion to brine and cook for 1 minute. Take off heat, cover, and let steep for 15 mins.

transfer mixture to a jar or container with a tight fitting lid. Refrigerate. Will keep for several weeks.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Hot Pockets (Veggie Pita Pocket)

WHAT IT IS: a roasted veggie filled pita pocket of delight with a vaguely spicy and bright tahini yogurt sauce. When you need vegetables in your life. Nod to my mom, who made a similar version when I was a kid but it was usually broccoli and mushrooms and she melted cheese on it, which of course was awesome.

INGREDIENTS:

broccoli

cauliflower

onion

whole garlic cloves

cherry tomatoes

mushrooms

tahini

greek yogurt or plain yogurt

lemon

cumin

aleppo pepper (or red pepper flakes)

HOW TO MAKE IT:

preheat your oven to 425. Wash and cut your veggies into bite size pieces. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper, 1 tblsp of lemon juice, and 1/2 tsp of cumin. Divide onto two baking sheets if necessary (or one sheet if you don’t have many veggies). Roast for 25-35 mins, until well browned, stirring half way through. 

Meanwhile, combine 1 cup yogurt with about 1/4 cup tahini, the juice of half a lemon, 1 tsp aleppo pepper (or 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes), salt and pepper to taste, 1/2 tsp cumin,1 small minced garlic clove, and a slug of olive oil. Stir to combine. Add 1 tblsp of chopped parsley, stir. Adjust seasoning.

Toast pita over an gas burner until slightly brown. Cut in half and spoon in tahini sauce, then veggies. Eat.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Good Morning (Huevos con Chile)

WHAT IT IS: scrambled eggs simmered in a mild tomato chile. a traditional mexican breakfast dish but really it’s good any time. propers to the mother in law for the recipe and culinary guidance.

INGREDIENTS:

2-3 large tomatoes, quartered

1/2 white onion, quartered

1 jalapeno, sliced, but really this depends on the heat of your jalapeno and the level of spice you want in your finished dish

cilantro

water

salt

lime wedges

6-8 eggs, scrambled

vegetable oil

HOW TO MAKE IT:

to make the chile, add tomatoes, jalapeno, onion, cilantro and about 2-3 tsp of salt (or eye ball it like I do, salt to taste) to a blender. Cover with water. Puree to the consistency you like. I prefer mine with a little texture, mother in law likes it smooth and a little thinner. (now, my chile looks a little different because I used a leftover tomato salsa that I had made as the base of the chile, and then I kinda doctored it up. Gotta improvise sometimes).

heat about 2 tblsp of vegetable oil over med-high heat in a soup pot. add eggs. let them cook for a minute, then start moving them around so they begin to curd and lump up a bit.

add chile to the eggs and simmer over medium heat for 10-15 mins. Serve in bowls and with warmed tortillas (typically white flour) on the side. Garnish with cilantro, onion, more jalapeno, and lime juice (if you want).

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Southern Comfort (Fried Catfish 2 Wayz)

WHAT IT IS #1: fried catfish sandwich with a vinegar mayo brussel sprout slaw and sriracha mayo.

INGREDIENTS:

big ass piece of catfish

buttermilk

peanut oil

corn meal, all purpose flour, and masa harina

spices (paprika, old bay, salt, pepper, ancho chile powder, garlic powder and whatever)

brussel sprouts, thinly sliced

mayo, celery seeds, mustard, vinegar, old bay, salt and pepper (for slaw dressing)

hamburger potato bun

HOW TO MAKE IT:

I made this a while ago, so forgive me if I can't remember the exact quantities. I marinated the catfish in a few cups of seasoned buttermilk for a few hours beforehand.

heat peanut oil in a dutch oven over medium high heat to about 360 degrees. As oil heats, dredge catfish in a flour, masa harina, and cornmeal mixture that has been seasoned with the above spices. Shake off excess flour and gently lower catfish into hot oil. Don't overcrowd the pot or the fish will steam instead of fry. Fry until golden brown, about 10-12 mins, turning over once during cooking.

while fish is frying, assemble slaw. combine brussel sprouts with about 1/2 cup mayo, 1/4 cup apple cider or white vinegar, salt, pepper, celery seeds, old bay, chile powder, and whatever else sounds good.

toast buns in a skillet with butter or in the broiler. place 1 piece of fried catfish on hamburger bun, topped with slaw and sriracha mayo (mayo and sriracha). Eat. Yum

WHAT IT IS #2: leftovers with the fried catfish with jalapeno cheese grits and roasted carrots and fingerling potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

leftover fried catfish

fingerling potatoes

carrots

corn meal

pickled jalapenos, chopped

butter

milk or water

1/4 cup of cream cheese

1/4 cup parmesan

leftover brussel sprout slaw

HOW TO MAKE IT:

Roast veggies with olive oil, salt, and pepper at 425 for about 30 mins or so, stirring about half way through.

Well, you already have the fried catfish, so to reheat them, preheat oven to 275. Reheat them in the oven for about 20 mins.

For the jalapeno cheese grits, make grits like normal, which is basically just really creamy polenta. Bring about 4 cups of water or milk to a boil and slowly whisk in 1 cup of corn meal. Lower heat to low and barely simmer for about 45 mins. You want just a few bubbles to be breaking the surface. Add more milk or water for desired consistency. Off heat, add cheese, butter, salt, pepper, and chopped jalapenos. 

Assemble dish with grits on bottom, then catfish, then slaw, then a vinegar mayo if desired.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Sunday Bluez (Barbacoa Eggs Benedict)

WHAT IT IS: had some leftover barbacoa and some fresh baked bread and the benedict was born. 

INGREDIENTS:

barbacoa (make it)

fresh bread (make it)

hollandaise sauce (made with an immersion blender)

poached eggs

HOW TO MAKE IT:

for poached eggs: bring a large skillet of lightly salted water to a boil. gently add strained eggs to skillet (strain eggs with a slotted spoon). Remove from heat and cover for 4 mins. Carefully remove eggs with slotted spoon.

just assemble it like an eggs benedict (bread, chile if you have it or other hot sauce, then meat, then eggs, then hollandaise). Top off with chives or parsley or paprika or whatever you feel.

-schuyler-

[bombardinis]

Legally Flaned (Latin Flan)

WHAT IT IS: basically a Latin creme brulee. Custard and caramel baby. Nod to Cook's Illustrated recipe.

INGREDIENTS:

2/3 cup sugar (+ 1/4 cup water)

2 tblsp water

2 eggs plus 5 yolks

1 14oz can of sweetened condensed milk

1 12 oz can of evaporated milk

1/2 cup whole milk

1 1/2 tblsp vanilla extract

1/2 tsp salt

2 qts boiling water

HOW TO MAKE IT:

stir sugar and 1/4 cup of water in small saucepan until sugar is completely moist. Bring mixture to a boil over medium high heat and cook without stirring for about 5 mins, until mixture begins to turn golden. Gently swirl pan and cook another few mins until mixture resembles the color of peanut butter. Remove from heat and swirl another 15 or 20 secs until it has a deep amber color. Carefully add 2 tblsp of warm water (it will hiss and bubble at you). Pour caramel into your loaf pan (8 1/2 x 4 1/2). Do not scrap out the saucepan. Set aside.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 300 degrees. Line a 13 x 9 baking dish with a dish towel, so it lays smooth. Bring 2 qts of water to a boil.

Whisk eggs and yolks in large bowl. Add all the milks, vanilla, and salt and whisk until combined. Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer into loaf pan.

Cover loaf pan tightly with aluminum foil and place in your towel lined baking dish. Place in oven and carefully add the boiling water around the loaf pan (warm water bath, traditional method for baking custards.) Bake until it jiggles and the center registers 180 degrees, about 1 hour and ten mins or up to 1 hr 30 mins. Remove from oven and let loaf pan cool completely in water bath. Once cool, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or up to 4 days.

To unmold, just run a butter knife along the sides and invert on a platter. The caramel will run out so make sure you have a platter with high sides. Slice and serve, preferably with some berries or something.

-schuyler-

Notes: you can add pretty much whatever flavors you want to this basic recipe, such as almond extract or instant espresso powder, etc.