The gruelling 14 hours spent in an airborne metal tube from England to Singapore and the cost that comes with those uncomfortably small seats, stale bread and sealed cups of water was what my boyfriend, Christian, underwent in order to visit me in this tiny island for 3 weeks. However, when he pointed out that this was his first trip to Asia, and that it would make sense to visit another country as well, I was all for it - especially when he suggested Japan, a place I have never gone to but have always been dying to visit! So we began our research, myself armed with a Japan travel guide from Waterstones like an overly typical tourist and Christian with his Japanese phrasebook in hand, and we settled on the destinations of Tokyo - the capital of Japan and one of the most famous cities in the world - and Kyoto - the former capital, now home to culturally enthralling sites like gorgeous temples, palaces and villages.
Christian is my favourite person to travel with because he can somehow turn a 7-hour plane journey with a crying baby into one that I wish was even longer, and despite the hellish confusion that we experienced upon landing in Tokyo thanks to the massively tourist-unfriendly subway system, his common sense (and sixth sense as a train-lover) managed to get us to our destination - the APA Hotel in Shiomi.
The APA Hotel, Tokyo-Shiomi-Ekimae
This 3-star hotel was home to us for 2 nights in Tokyo. Upon booking the room, we saw that it was next to a train station (Shiomi) that could bring us to the centre of Tokyo rather easily as the hotel is quite out of the way - however at arrival we couldn’t find Shiomi station on the subway map. It took us a few hours and a taxi ride to realise that Shiomi is not part of the subway system but rather an above-ground train system called the JR, which is highly useful information to anyone visiting Tokyo. The JR from Shiomi didn’t fail to get us to the centre of Tokyo with ease after we managed to work out the confusing payment system and match Japanese characters from the station’s map to Christian’s beloved iPhone Tokyo Subway app, making the hotel quite an ideal location to avoid the city centre’s high accommodation prices.
This business hotel was extremely clean and even though the rooms were small, this is typical of Tokyo hotels. The room was well-lit with comfortable beds and a lovely hot shower. The only complaint would be the minimal amount of English spoken by the hotel staff - from the struggles of understanding Christian’s name to them being of no help with any questions we had, we were both rather surprised that the hotel staff could speak barely any English, however soon discovered that this was similar to the rest of the people in Tokyo. The hotel had two amazing restaurants within a 2-minute walk, both serving mouthwatering Japanese food, one being a friendly joint and the other being a Japanese experience on its own, with a no-shoe policy, private rooms and low seating.
Our early morning arrival in this bustling city meant we had to make the most of our time in Tokyo before we could flop dead after a night of no sleep, so Christian and I decided to visit the Imperial Palace.
The gardens were beautiful and it was definitely a lovely first sight in Japan, however the area surrounding the grounds had no restaurants or cafes at all which led us to a rather grumpy state of mind. After a long time of dragging our tired bodies around in the sweltering Japanese heat, we got back on the subway and got off at a random stop, ecstatic to see a Coffee Bean and some restaurants right opposite the station.
If you ever talk to anyone who has been to Tokyo, Harajuku Street and Shibuya will always be on the list of places to visit. So Christian and I woke up with a fresh start after a much needed night of rest and found our way to Harajuku within the rather crazy crowd of people and the over-complicated subway system.
Harajuku was definitely my highlight of Tokyo, with a market selling cheap clothes, accessories and cute items that were typically Japanese. This was exactly what I was looking forward to seeing in this area, however I couldn’t help feeling bad for Christian when I practically forced him to try bubble tea (milk tea with tapioca balls) which he despised and when I had to visit every single cutesy overly-female Japanese market stall within the market, of which only a few catered towards men. We then wandered the nearby streets and found a lovely sushi restaurant, having a mini feast that was truly unforgettable.
The Meiji Shrine was next on our list, and we were happily surprised with how close it was to Harajuku - right next to it, in fact. This is definitely a sight worth seeing - with a beautiful temple in the middle of a crazy city, it was a new experience being able to find peace amid all the madness.
Monstrous rain pouring down wasn’t what we had expected when the bullet train (Shinkansen) arrived in Kyoto, so we quickly made our way to our hotel (the ANA Crowne Plaza) to re-plan our day, accommodating the disastrous weather. We found that surprisingly, Kyoto catered more towards English-speaking tourists than Tokyo, making our journey relatively easy. The rain slowed after a while and we thought we had to make the most of our time in Kyoto, and luckily, we had booked a hotel that was situated right next to a Japanese sight - Nijo Castle. So we made our way to the grounds, simply a 2-minute walk away from the front door of our hotel, and explored the castle. The interior was stunning, peaceful and simplistic, with wooden floors and a bamboo scent throughout. However the gardens surrounding the castle were truly gorgeous with small ponds and greenery that made the whole area extremely relaxing.
Of course, this sense of relaxation vanished when it started tipping with rain again, forcing Christian and I to simply embrace the fact that we were completely soaked within a minute of trying to find shelter so to just power through. It certainly didn’t help that the exit of the palace required us to walk around the entire grounds in the pouring rain with no umbrella or raincoat, and it definitely wasn’t a smart idea to wear a white top.
Completely drenched and filled with laughter, we found a small Japanese restaurant next to our hotel that served the most delicious food, warming us up. The waiter/chef gave us pitying looks and a small cloth towel to soak up the water which of course was of minimal use, but finally being able to be out of the torrential downpour was happiness on its own.
We quickly made our way to 7/11 when the rain slowed down and bought ourselves raincoats so that we could brave the weather the next day if the rain decided to visit again.
This was the best day of our entire trip, as we were extremely excited to visit a certain temple which was the main reason for us picking Kyoto as our second destination - Daigo-ji Temple. Raincoats on with a slight drizzle, we walked from the subway station to the temple grounds and wandered around for a bit, before stumbling upon the picturesque view that we saw repeatedly on Google images whenever typing in ‘Kyoto’. Truly breathtaking, a gorgeous still pond with a red bridge stretching over and a small temple-like structure on the other side, we had to sit down to take in this view before us. Even though the photos are stunning, it really doesn’t do justice to the peace and serenity this place harboured. With just a slight drizzle and a maximum of 6 other people in the vicinity, the overall feel and beauty of Daigo-ji is reason alone for us to want to go back to Kyoto.
After dragging ourselves away from this heaven on earth, we visited multiple other temples, the highlight of those being the oldest zen garden, Kenninji, another peaceful and gorgeous experience and definitely a Kyoto recommendation.
Visiting Japan with the love of my life made the experience even better, and it would definitely be a destination that I would recommend to anyone who wanted to explore true Asian culture. We both believe that the destinations of Tokyo and Kyoto gave us a chance to experience a mix of both the upcoming city life of Japan and the older, more relaxed and cultural side of the country. The people in Japan are really something else - manners is a top priority and their kindness, generosity, help and acceptance with tourists was unlike any other country I have ever visited. If you only have time or wish to only visit one place in Japan, I would recommend Kyoto over Tokyo for a truer experience of Japanese culture and for an easier and more relaxed holiday.