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Brew Berlin preview: International craft beer trends

 If you’ve been to BCB before, you know Brew Berlin is the best place to get up to speed on what’s happening in the beer world. But so often, a look to the future focusses on the major beer producing countries like Germany and the USA, which together accounted for about 17% of the world’s beer production in 2015.

As craft beer becomes ever more popular among producers and consumers, the next big thing in beer won’t necessarily come from the countries where the multinational brewers are based. That’s why this year, Brew Berlin is shining a spotlight on breweries in countries less well-known for their beer.

Since France is the Country of Honour at BCB this year, Dirk Hoplitschek, the co-founder of Berlin Beer Week, will be hosting a discussion with French brewers on the challenges of brewing craft beer in a country so universally associated with wine. France has a rich heritage of independent breweries, which are so often overshadowed by the country’s production of fine wines and cognac.

In fact, when it comes to craft beer, France punches well above its weight. The volume of beer produced in France makes up only about 1% of world production, and yet France has so many craft breweries that it’s one of the top 10 countries in the world in terms of craft beer production. No doubt this is a contradiction many brewers on the panel have their own ideas about addressing.

For something with an even more global outlook, Hoplitschek is also hosting a panel discussion on international beer trends with brewers and beer experts from all over the world. Brewmaster Garrett Oliver, from craft success story Brooklyn Brewery, and beer bartender extraordinaire Jacob Grier will be on hand to represent the American perspective. Frank Boon, owner of Belgium’s Boon Brewery can speak to the resurgence of traditional Belgian beer styles. Meanwhile, David Cohen from Dancing Camel Brewing in Israel will share stories of brewing beer in the Middle East.

Back in Europe, brewer and co-founder of Plovdiv’s first craft beer festival, Mihaela Dimitrova will be on the panel to discuss Bulgaria’s nascent craft beer culture. The panel discussion will also include a tasting, featuring some of Dimitrova’s favorite Bulgarian craft beers, which are beginning to make their mark in her home country. “The new beers have definitely changed tastes in the country,” she says.

The international trends discussion will take place on Tuesday, October 10 at 2pm, and the conversation on craft beer from a wine country will be on Wednesday, October 11 at 2pm. And of course, they’ll both be on the Brew Berlin stage. Make sure you don’t miss out!

Check out all the sessions at Brew Berlin 2017 in the BCB programme. Text: Kit Kriewaldt, Photo: Gili Shani for Bar Convent

[brewberlin]

Brew Berlin preview: Will craft beer save the beer market?

As the Brew Berlin stage gets bigger, and reaches its fifth anniversary, we’re in a celebratory mood. Not that it means we don’t have our eyes on some big issues facing our industry. Most notably, beer has hit a (small) snag in Germany – something which a panel of long-time beer industry experts will be discussing. Will craft beer save the beer market?

“This talk will be looking at the development in sales and communication,” says Peter Eichhorn, who’ll be moderating the talk. “Beer sales have been going down all through the last decades.” He’s right. In Germany – a country with a strong history of beer production – the per capita consumption has dropped by one-third since 1976. Consumers are also more and more accustomed to paying discounted prices at supermarkets and big retail outlets. Therefore, adjusted for inflation, prices for beer in Germany are around half of what they were in 1993. People are drinking less beer and spending less on it at the same time.

“Now modern beer and craft brewing is a new momentum to talk about beer and get new people interested in different beer styles and tastes,” Eichhorn says. Indeed, recent years have seen an uptick in small producers in Germany, with brands such as Welde Braumanufaktur and Berlin’s own Brlo and Berliner Berg – all of whom are exhibiting at this year’s show. The Brew Berlin area will also showcase the Berliner Weisse, a type of sour beer which is seeing a revival in breweries and bars. Eichhorn will be moderating a discussion on this with many different brewers including Michael Schwab (Brewbaker) and Oliver Lemke (Brauhaus Lemke). Will these new brands and different types of beer save the industry from decline? And can German consumers, who are used to low prices, begin to consider craft brands as premium and worth the extra cost? Expect these two questions to figure heavily in the discussion.

“We will be discussing the new attitude towards beer with distributers and brewers to share their experiences and take a peek into the future of beer diversity in bars, restaurants, markets and homes,” Eichhorn explains. There’s an impressive list of names on the panel, including Bjarne Mark Hojer (One Pint), Christian Klemenz (St. Erhard), Jeroen Bosch (Bierlinie), and Markus Berberich (Insel Brauerei).

The focus here is on Germany but these issues are being faced by beer brands across the world. In the US, for instance, beer’s biggest market, production volumes froze between 2007 and 2014 and sales have stayed relatively flat too. This is often seen as the reason why many big beer conglomerates are snapping up craft breweries with increasing speed.

Whatever the future holds for beer, don’t miss this talk on the Brew Berlin stage on Tuesday, October 10 at 12.30.

Check out all the sessions at Brew Berlin 2017 in the BCB programme.

Text: Andrew Wilkin, Photo Gili Shani

[brewberlin]

Brew Berlin preview: Jacob Grier talks beer cocktails

 Jacob Grier has a surprising admission: “for the longest time, I thought I didn’t like beer.”

As a bartender, journalist, and author of Cocktails on Tap: The Art of Mixing Spirits and Beer, he’s clearly changed his tune. “Guinness won me over,” he laughs. “And it was when I first went to a basement Belgian beer bar – Birreria Paradiso – in Washington D.C. That’s when I fell in love.” He’s now heading a talk on beer cocktails at BCB in October. He’ll be taking us through over four centuries of history, with tastings to boot.

“The history [of beer cocktails] is much longer than you may think,” Grier says. “It goes back to the 1600s and that’s just recorded history.” It even incorporates Shakespeare: “in some of his texts you can find the Posset cocktail.” Then there’s the famous Wassail, which historically was made with cider, but can also be made with ale. “Looking back gets you thinking about new ways to mix with beer,” Grier says.

He plans to explain in Berlin how there are seven styles of beer cocktails through history. We won’t go into all of them here, but Grier is especially keen on discussing one. “People usually don’t think about hot drinks,” he says with a knowing smile. That’s something Grier is keen to change: “we’ve called them hot helpers in my book, and I’ll be showcasing some in the talk.”

What type of beer cocktail is he partial to? “I particularly like tropical drinks shaken with an IPA,” he says. “It adds bitterness to Tiki style drinks.” In particular, he highlights one he made for Melbourne’s Good Beer Week in an improvised beer cocktail showdown. The Carwyn Viking, named after a “great bottle shop in Melbourne,” is made with Linie Aquavit, IPA, lime juice, falernum and Angostura bitters. It could become a worldwide hit – it’s going onto the menu this week at Grier’s old bartending haunt, the bar at Portland’s Wayfinder Beer brewery.

The talk really shows Grier coming full-circle. Originally a barista, he moved into bartending and cocktail consultancy when he moved to Portland, Oregon from Washington, D.C. After changing his opinion on beer, he joined the Oregon Bartenders Guild. “One of our first events was a beer cocktail event,” Grier explains. “That was my first experience with it.” The world is also starting to wake up to beer’s mixological potential, with beer cocktails appearing on more bar menus.

And there’s one more nugget of good news – you’ll have two opportunities to catch Grier at this year’s BCB. His beer and cocktails discussion takes place on Tuesday, October 10 at 5pm, with another session the next day on Wednesday, October 11 at 12.30pm. Don’t miss it!

Check out all the sessions at Brew Berlin 2017 in the BCB programme.

Text: Andrew Wilkin, Photo: Birte Filmer.

[brewberlin]

What to Look Out For at Brew Berlin 2017

Brew Berlin celebrates its fifth anniversary this year. With just a month to go until BCB, we thought we’d highlight some of the things to look forward to in the Brew Berlin 2017 program.

A bevvy of beer brands from around the world

This year’s Brew Berlin is the best place to sample the widest range of beers. Well known beer brands from Hamburg’s And Union to Welde Braumanufaktur in Plankstadt will be showing off their brews. As beer lovers and Berliners, the Brew Berlin team is also excited to see so many beer brands from Berlin, including Berliner Berg and Brlo. But it’s not just about German beer. Breweries from Spain, France, the UK, the Netherlands, and even countries as far away as India are also set to be represented at Brew Berlin.

And craft beer isn’t the only thing on show at Brew Berlin. “More and more cider producers have been emerging in the wake of the craft beer revolution,” says Luke Fenton from Thistly Cross Cider. The UK has a strong cider tradition, and so does France, this year’s BCB Country of Honor. So it’s fitting that Brew Berlin will showcase ciders from both Thistly Cross Cider from Scotland, and Aval Cidre Artisanal from Bretagne. Check out the full list of beer and cider brands exhibiting at Brew Berlin here.

Brew Berlin looks to France and Bulgaria

BCB’s Hall 4 has been transformed into a beer lover’s paradise, featuring the Brew Berlin exhibitor booths and the Beer Stage. As always, the Beer Stage will host a range of industry experts and entrepreneurs, ready to examine all the biggest trends in beer.

With a focus on France, Dirk Hoplitschek – the co-founder of Berlin Beer Week – will host a panel discussion on the challenges of brewing craft beer in a country that’s more well-known for wine. Dirk will also host a discussion examining trends affecting beer internationally, including in the burgeoning but often overlooked Bulgarian beer scene. Mihaela Dimitrova, the co-founder of Plovdiv’s first ever craft beer festival will be sharing her first-hand knowledge of Bulgarian craft beer. Dimitrova says she’s “already very much looking forward to” attending Brew Berlin.

A new twist on traditional beer styles

Approaching beer from a bartender’s perspective, Jacob Grier will run two tasting sessions, demonstrating how to make great cocktails using beer. Although the trend towards beer cocktails is just beginning, Grier says he’s fighting against a trend he sees every day: “the better bartender you are, the worse beer you drink.”

In Germany, one of the most recent trends is the rediscovery of Berliner Weisse. After decades of neglect, Berlin’s very own regional style of sour beer is seeing a revival amongst craft breweries and a renewed interest from beer drinkers. Peter Eichhorn will talk to some of the brewers who have embraced this traditional beer, including Brlo and Brewbaker. He’ll also host a discussion on whether craft beer sales can save Germany’s beer market.

All those talks plus a whole lot more are in store at Brew Berlin this year – not to mention the chance to meet brewers and distributors from around the world. As Arne Wildner from Neue Bierkultur says, “I love coming back here every year…It is always nice to discuss trends and developments with other beer connoisseurs.”

Text: Kit Kriewaldt, Photo: Gili Shani

[brewberlin]

Brew Berlin 2017: Announcing the first set of presenters

Berliner Weisse, beer cocktails and international beer trends in the spotlight. What are the latest beer trends worldwide?Who are the bold up-and-comers of the brewing scene every bar operator and restaurateur should know? And how is craft beer going to shake up the beer market? On 10 and 11 October, the professionals-only trade show Brew Berlin at Station Berlin will cover the topics that move the industry. The programme is aimed at bar operators, producers, distributors, importers and specialist wholesalers. The first batch of speakers has already been selected.

Craft beer trend: Berliner Weisse

“Endangered culinary cultural heritage” – that’s what the Slow Food movement still called Berliner Weisse as late as 2014. By now, though, the complex top-fermented beer – dubbed the “Champagne of the North” by Napoleon’s troops – has made a comeback. The craft beer community revived it, which already makes it clear that modern Berliner Weisse has nothing to do with the simple sour beer-syrup mix served with a straw. Instead, young brewers are returning to the traditional recipe: brewed from a mixture of wheat malt and barley malt, the beer is then mixed with lactic acid bacteria and special yeast and allowed to mature in the bottle. The Brew Berlin programme captures this trend towards regional sour beers. Craft brewers will be on hand on the first day of the show to share their experiences, including: Ulrike Genz, whose brewery Schneeeule is producing four varieties of Berliner Weisse by now; Oliver Lemke, director of Brauhaus Lemke, who worked for two years to develop the perfect recipe for his version of a traditional sour beer; Michael Schwab, the pioneer of the Berliner Weisse renaissance with his Brewbaker brewery; and Katharina Kurz and Michael Lembke from BRLO, who’ll gladly recommend a shot of liqueur to add to your Berliner Weisse if you like. Bar highlight: Beer cocktails

“One Bourbon, One Scotch, One  Beer.” Even blues legend John Lee Hooker knew that a beer oftentimes just  doesn’t cut it. Abandoned by his lover, he orders not one but three drinks  from the bartender. A typical blues song – but what about bars in the real  world? Well, they’ve started creating fascinating cocktails from beer and  spirits. American Jacob Grier has mastered this art like no other. The  author, bartender and cocktail consultant from Portland willl introduce trade visitors from  the  bar and beverage industry to the world  of beer cocktails. His presentation is entitled “Cocktails on Tap” – and of  course includes a free tasting. The native Texan’s mission is to get more  bartenders excited about beer. That’s because, as he says with a wink, the  relationship often still looks like this: “The better bartender you are, the  worse beer you drink.” This might change in 2017, with Grier presenting his  latest recipes for beer cocktails on the Brew Berlin stage. “I’ll cover the  entire range”, he promises, “from traditional flips – prepared, it goes  without saying, with a red-hot iron – to the best contemporary beer  cocktails.”

Brew Berlin to showcase international beer trends 

Grier, whose personal focus  this year will be on the German and Scandinavian beer scenes, will also be  sharing his first-hand knowledge as part of Brew Berlin’s “International Beer  Trends” expert panel on the first day of the trade show. Naturally, the event  will present another opportunity to sample some exciting beers – an activity  that might turn out to be particularly intriguing in 2017 due to the  participation of an insider from the still frequently underestimated  Bulgarian scene. Mihaela Dimitrova, a graduate brewer with bar experience,  currently brews beer exclusively for the Fabrikata brew pub in Plovdiv,  Bulgaria’s second-largest city. She’ll  join the Brew

Berlin panel  discussion to talk about the history of craft beer culture in Bulgaria. “The  new beers have definitely changed tastes in the country”, says the  24-year-old. The co-founder of Dve-tri Biri, Plovdiv’s first craft beer  festival, will present the most influential ones at the show. “Brew Berlin is  a great event to move the beverage industry forward and inspire trade  visitors”, says Dimitrova. “I’m already very much looking forward to it.”

Maximilian Marner from the craft beer bar Galopper des  Jahres in Hamburg has confirmed his participation, as well. He’ll take part  in the Brew Berlin Forum “Beer & Bars”. Another forum, entitled “Will  craft beer save the beer market?”, will explore the distribution side of the  equation. Among the pros sharing their assessments with visitors here will be  Jeroen Bosch from beer wholesaler and importer Bierlinie GmbH and Bjarne  Mark Hojer from One Pint GmbH, which recently took over BrewDog’s import  business.

About Brew Berlin

Beer for bars - that’s what  Brew Berlin is all about. The annual trade show provides a platform for  manufacturers and distributors of international premium beers to meet  directly with restaurateurs, importers and specialist wholesalers. The Brew  Berlin brand has been a part of the Bar Convent Berlin, Europe’s leading  premium trade show for the bar and beverage industry, since 2013. In 2017,  the successful trade show duo will take place at Station Berlin on 10 and 11  October. About 10,000 trade visitors are expected to attend.

www.barconvent.com www.brewberlin.com

Text: Bar Convent Berlin, Photo: Gili Shani

[brewberlin]

Brew Berlin 2017: Erste Referenten stehen fest

Brew Berlin 2017: Erste Referenten stehen fest Berliner Weiße, Bier  Cocktails und internationale Biertrends

Was sind die neuesten  Biertrends weltweit? Welche jungen Wilden der Brauerszene sollten  Barbetreiber und Gastronomen kennen? Und wie wird Craft Beer den Biermarkt beeinflussen? Die Fachbesuchermesse Brew Berlin greift am 10. und 11. Oktober in der Station Berlin die Themen auf, welche die Branche bewegen. Das Programm richtet sich an Barbetreiber, Hersteller, Distributoren, Importeure und Fachgroßhändler. Erste Referenten stehen schon fest.

Craft-Beer-Trend: Berliner Weisse

„Bedrohtes kulinarisches Kulturerbe“ – so wurde die Berliner Weisse 2014 von der Slow-Food-Bewegung noch tituliert. Inzwischen feiert das komplexe     obergärige Bier, das Napoleons Truppen „Champagner des Nordens“       nannten, ein Comeback. Die Craft-Beer-Szene hat es wiederbelebt. Und       damit ist schon klar: Mit dem einfachen Sauerbier-Sirup-Mix mit Strohhalm hat die moderne Weisse nichts zu tun. Stattdessen setzen die jungen Brauer wieder auf die traditionelle Rezeptur: Gebraut aus einer Mischung von Weizen- und Gerstenmalz wird das Bier anschließend mit Milchsäurebakterien und speziellen Hefen versetzt und reift in der Flasche weiter. Das Brew-Berlin-Programm greift diesen Trend zu regionalen Sauerbieren auf. Am ersten Messetag berichten Craft-Brauer von ihren Erfahrungen, darunter: Ulrike Genz, die mit ihrer Brauerei „Schneeeule“ inzwischen vier Sorten Berliner Weisse herstellt; Oliver Lemke, Leiter des Brauhauses Lemke, der zwei Jahre an der richtigen Rezeptur für seine Version des traditionellen Sauerbiers arbeitete, Michael Schwab, der mit seiner Brewbaker Brauerei der Vorreiter der Berliner-Weisse-Renaissance ist, sowie Katharina Kurz und Michael Lembke von BRLO, die als Schuss zur Weisse, falls gewünscht, einen guten Likör empfehlen.

Bar-Highlight: Bier-Cocktails                                                   

"One Bourbon, one Scotch, and one Beer". Schon Blues-Legende John Lee Hooker wusste, dass ein Bier allein oft nicht genügt. Von der Liebsten verlassen, bestellt er beim Bartender gleich dreifach. Ein typischer Blues-Song eben.Und im echten Barleben? Entstehen aus Bier und Spirituosen inzwischen faszinierende Cocktails. Einer, der diese Kunst beherrscht wie kein Zweiter, ist der US-Amerikaner Jacob Grier. Der Autor,Bartender und Cocktail Consultant aus Portland wird die Fachbesucher aus der Bar- und Getränkeindustrie in die Welt der Biercocktails einführen. „Cocktails on Tap“ heißt sein Vortrag –       natürlich inklusive Verkostung. Der gebürtige Texaner will damit mehr Bartender für den Gerstensaft begeistern. Denn noch, so sagt er augenzwinkernd, sei das Verhältnis oft so: „The better bartender you are, the worse beer you drink.“Das könnte sich 2017 ändern, denn auf der Brew-Berlin-Bühne wird Grier seine neuesten Rezepte für Bier-Cocktails vorstellen. „Ich werde die ganze Bandbreite abdecken“, verspricht er. „Von traditionellen Flips – natürlich mit einem heißen Schürhaken zubereitet – bis zu den besten zeitgenössischen Bier-Cocktails.“

Brew Berlin stellt internationale Biertrends vor        .                                    

Grier, der sich persönlich in diesem Jahr vor allem mit der deutschen und skandinavischen Bierszene beschäftigen will, wird auch beim Brew-Berlin-Expertentalk „Internationale Biertrends“ am ersten Messetag sein Wissen aus erster Hand weitergeben. Auch hier können natürlich spannende Biere verköstigt werden – und das könnte 2017 besonders interessant werden, da auch eine Kennerin der bislang häufig unterschätzten bulgarischen Szene dabei ist. Mihaela Dimitrova ist studierte Brauerin mit Barerfahrung und braut zurzeit   exklusiv für den Brewpub „Fabrikata“ in Bulgariens zweitgrößter Metropole Plovdiv. Im Brew-Berlin-Expertentalk wird sie über die Geschichte der Craft-Beer-Kultur in Bulgarien sprechen. „Die neuen Biere haben den Geschmack im Land definitiv verändert“, sagt die 24-Jährige. Die besonders einflussreichen wird die Mitbegründerin von Plovdivs erstem Craft Beer Festival „Dve-tri Biri“ auf der Messe vorstellen. „Brew Berlin ist ein großartiges Event, um die Getränkeindustrie weiter zu entwickeln und Fachbesucher zu inspirieren“, sagt Dimitrova. „Ich freue mich schon sehr darauf.“  

Ebenfalls zugesagt hat  bereits Maximilian Marner von der Hamburger Craft-Beer-Bar „Galopper des Jahres“. Er wird am Brew-Berlin-Forum „Bier & Bars“ teilnehmen. Die Vertriebsseite wird das Forum „Rettet Craft den Biermarkt?“ beleuchten. Hier werden unter anderem Jeroen Bosch vom Biergroßhändler und Importeur Bierlinie GmbH und Bjarne Mark Hojer von One Pint GmbH, die unlängst den Import von BrewDog übernommen hat, ihre Einschätzung mit den Besuchern teilen.

Über Brew Berlin

Bier für Bars – das ist das Thema von Brew Berlin. Die jährliche Messe bietet Herstellern und Distributoren internationaler Premiumbiere den direkten Austausch mit Gastronomen, Importeuren und Fachgroßhändlern. Die Marke Brew Berlin ist seit 2013 Teil des Bar Convent Berlin, Europas bedeutendster Premium-Fachmesse der Bar- und Getränkeindustrie. 2017 findet das erfolgreiche Messeduo vom 10. bis 11. Oktober in der „Station Berlin“ statt. Erwartet werden rund 10.000 Fachbesucher.

www.barconvent.com       

www.brewberlin.com

Text: Pressemitteillung vom Bar Convent Berlin Foto: Bar Convent Berlin

[brewberlin]

Germany’s Top Craft Beer Distributors in 2017

Update, August 9th 2017: It seems even more brewers have moved into craft beer distribution, so we’ve added more to the section on breweries below, and updated the section on Craft-A-Porter, to give a better idea of their range.

The outlook for craft beer in the land of the Reinheitsgebot has never been so bright.

Craft beer is now more readily available in Germany, and the industry has become more mature – and far more complicated. Alongside the established importers and distributors, there are some brewers (Hofmark, Superfreunde, Pirates) distributing both their own beers as well as the beers of others, as well as new organizations (such as Neue Bierkultur) aimed at shaking things up. Not to mention the Deutsche Kreativbrauer association, a collective of a number of brewers – including Buddelship and Heidenpeters – aimed at changing the beer law of 1993 (the VorlBierG) and lobbying for the interests of craft brewers on a number of issues. They aren’t into the business of distribution yet, but they’re certainly looking to change the German craft beer landscape.

Considering this growth, two years after Brew Berlin first listed Germany’s top craft beer distributors, it’s high time to take another look and see how German craft beer distributors shape up in 2017.

1) Braufactum

Braufactum continue to distribute their own high-quality craft beers and imported Italian, American, British, and Belgian beers. Exclusive brands on the roster at Braufactum right now include Firestone Walker (USA), Palm (Belgium), Boon (Belgium), Birrificio Italiano (Italy) and Mikkeller/Gypsy (Denmark).

“We think it’s more important to have consistency, so lately we have just focused on our brand and recent partners,” says founder Marc Rauschmann. For instance, Braufactum have just introduced three new beers from Firestone Walker – Luponic Distortion, Easy Jack and Pivo Pils. “For us, this makes more sense compared to taking new brands that nobody knows,” says Rauschmann.

Furthermore, they’ve increased their own brewing output with two more styles: Soleya, an Abelian Saison, and Yakeros, a West Coast IPA. Last year, they also began selling three of their beers in 20-liter kegs – Progusta, Palor and The Brale.

2) Bierlinie

Importer and distributor Bierlinie, based in Berlin since 1991, have continued their growth. Bierlinie are best known as the Belgian beer specialist in Germany, and have broadened their range of small Belgian brews accordingly. This list of Belgian beers includes La Trappe, Bloemenbier, Paljas Saison, and Saison Dupont, amongst others.

Their exclusive brands are Het Anker (Belgium), St Bernardus (Belgium), and Samuel Adams – Boston Beer Company (USA). Bierlinie are also the only company officially importing Orval (Belgium).

Furthermore, they also established the Neue Bierkultur cooperation with Maisels & Friends, BRLO, Crew Republic, And Union, and Stiegl to jointly market beers from two of their main exclusive breweries: Het Anker and St. Bernardus. More on Neue Bierkultur below!

3) Derer Import

Derer Import still offer a mix of traditional German beers like Schönramer, Ayinger, and Weiherer, German craft beers like Hanscraft and Mashsee, and international craft beers. Newer beers on the roster include Berlin brews like Heidenpeters, Vagabund Brauerei and Brewbaker. Alongside Kinn and Aegir from Norway, other beers recently added include a series of American brands: Great Divide, Nebraska, Lazy Magnolia, Big Boss, and Olde Hickory.

Derer Import’s exclusive brands include Kompaan (Netherlands), White Pony (Italy/Belgium), and the aforementioned Aegir. From the USA, they include Victory, Left Hand, North Coast, Smuttynose, Saugatuck, Latitude 42, and Fifty Fifty.

Derer Import have also started exporting to neighbouring countries, stretching beyond Germany, including Switzerland and Austria.

4) Bier Deluxe

Bier Deluxe is still the major player in the market, as Germany’s largest online craft beer shop and wholesaler.

“Our scope is still offering the best beers to our customers in B2C and B2B. Therefore, we're constantly improving our product portfolio by getting in touch with new breweries, but also breweries that are in the market for a long time,” says a Bier Deluxe sales representative.

Their exclusive stock includes Doppelleu, Gotlands, and Frejdahl, but Bier Deluxe couldn’t give a guarantee that no other shop is selling them. Stone Brewing, 3Brew, Labirratorium, Wacken, and Craftwerk are the new breweries on the roster.

5) Getränke Rudat

The main focus of Getränke Rudat hasn’t changed since 2015. Getränke Rudat is a “shop for beers and craft beers from all over the world, even for local and national beers in bottles and kegs,” explains founder Christian Rudat.

Main distribution is still focused on Germany and Europe, but Rudat also send packages all over the world to private customers. Their brands include Freigeist (Germany), Nøgne ø (Denmark), De Molen (Netherlands), To Øl (Denmark), Toccalmato (Italy), De Ranke (Belgium), and many American and Belgium beers.

New brands since 2015 include Brewfist (Italy) and Solo (Greece). In the shop, many things have changed, with a new cold chain for hoppy beers and a new online store, amongst other technical changes.

6) Brausturm

The Hamburg-based Brausturm still focus on a range of top notch craft breweries – but no longer limit themselves just to certain regions. However, many of the breweries they work with do originate from Scandinavia, the UK and the Baltics.

Exclusive brands include Pohjala (Estonia), Lervig (Norway), and Kernel (UK). New brands joining them on the rosters in the past year include Stigbergets (Sweden), Omnipollo (Sweden), Magic Rock (UK), Beavertown (UK), Brewski (Sweden), Dugges (Sweden), and Oskar Blues (USA).

“We aim to always bring in fantastic and rare new craft beer and try to keep in touch with many breweries that rarely have enough for their local market but might at some point have a window of opportunity for export,” says Ronald Siemsglüß, managing director of Brausturm.

The distribution focus is on craft beer shops and restaurants and in the broader portfolio also general retail including the major German supermarket chains Edeka and Rewe. Recently, Brausturm has also been offering many more beers in kegs, with currently around 100 different beers kegs available to bars of all sorts.

7) Ambrosetti

Ambrosetti is a beer delivery specialist in Berlin, particularly for retail stores, delis, and major events, including the Internationales Berliner Bierfestival. They specialize in Bavarian beer, bringing small and special beers from Franconia, Swabia and the other regions into Berlin. One big change since 2015 is the addition of BrewDog to their expansive roster of beers available for delivery.

Ambrosetti also deliver other beverages like juice, mineral water, and soda. With a 5000-square-meter warehouse in Berlin-Tegel and a bricks and mortar store at Schillerstrasse 103 in Charlottenburg, Ambrosetti really boasts big visibility on the ground.

8) Hamburg Beer Company

The Hamburg Beer Company, a subsidiary of the Nordmann group, boasts a full range of both international and national beers, focusing on both high end styles as well as more accessible ones – in their words, “to help introduce the German consumer to new tastes”.

They distribute all around Germany and both to trade and gastronomy outlets, from a central logistics platform consisting of a modern central warehouse with space for around 800 items.

Beers on their roster include Duvel Moortgart (Belgium), Lindemans (Belgium), Ratsherrn (Germany), Boulevard Brewing Co (USA), McGargles (Ireland), and La Trappe (Netherlands).

9) Liquid Hops

Liquid Hops live up to their name, distributing many different beer styles throughout Germany. However, the focus is squarely on “smaller, innovative breweries with high-quality standards.” The Augsburg-based distributor are after “unusual” beers, only available in limited editions or in small numbers.

Amongst many others, Liquid Hops stock Beavertown (UK), Riegele (Germany), and Hoppebräu (Germany). One exclusive of note is Evil Twin (Denmark), the brewery run by Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergso – brother of Mikkeller founder Mikkel Borg Bjergso.

10) One Pint

In the past two years, One Pint, run by Bjarne Mark Hoier, have gone from 100 beers to almost 300. And from 5 to 16 people in the company. Talk about a growth spurt!

They are still regarded as one of the most knowledgeable and reliable beer importer-distributors in the region. Exclusive beers include many UK brands such as Fuller’s, Belhaven, Green King, Innis and Gunn, Samuel Smith, Shepheard Neame, Robinson, Trooper, St Austell, Wychwood, Marstons, and Rogue. Beyond the UK, One Pint also distributes Sierra Nevada (USA), Kona (USA), Brew Age (Austria), Midtfyns Bryghus (Denmark), and Jopen (Netherlands). And BrewDog (UK) have just joined their roster, too.

11) Bierothek

You might know Bierothek as a retailer, but they also serve the entire craft beer value chain – from production to importation, wholesale, and retail. Alongside their own produced labels such as St. Erhard and Evora, they import brands including Coedo(Japan), Sakiskiu(Lithuania), Septem (Greece), Weyerbacher (US), Lehe (Estonia), Raven (Czech Republic), Espiga (Spain), and Karma (Italy).

Through their shops, both online and offline – with nine stores across Germany – and their wholesaling to bars, restaurants, and other stores, Bierothek have grown exponentially since the launch of the first outlet in 2014 in Bamberg.

Now, onto the newcomers who have been shaking up Germany’s craft beer distribution scene in the past two years.

12) The Breweries

Here’s where the lines have become blurred. You may know them as a brewery, but Hofmark have also turned to distribution in recent years. They offer a wider choice of fine German and foreign craft beers, as well as traditional styles, including a selection of trappist beers. “Our focus is quality, customer orientation and a good price-performance ratio,” explains Burkhart Cording, head of the Hofmark brewery.

They distribute Thornbridge (UK), and of course their very own Hofmark Brauerei beers. Beer sommelier Renate Silberbauer has also started working for them in recent months.

On that note, gypsy brewers Superfreunde are also distributing Tilmans, and Pirate Brew are distributing Freigeist. But it’s not just small and medium-sized breweries getting in on the craft beer distribution game. Brewing giant Carlsberg has built up distribution for a range of specialty beers which includes Birrificio Angelo Poretti (Italy), Grimbergen (Belgium), Duckstein (Germany), Staropramen (Czech Republic), and much-loved American craft beer pioneers Brooklyn Brewery.

13) Craft-A-Porter

Since April 2016, a new organization in the traditional mold is Craft-A-Porter, run by Hendrick Sell of the Berlin Beer Academy. With a network of breweries, hotels, bars, agencies, and blogs, they offer importing, distributing, marketing and event services. They also act as an educational consultancy about all things craft beer.

They offer an impressive range of beers, including Yeastie Boys (New Zealand), Green Flash (USA), De Struise Brouwers (Belgium), St Feuillien (Belgium), Abita Brewing (USA), Aviator Brewing (USA), Berliner Berg (Germany), Dry & Bitter (Denmark), Ale Mania (Germany), and Munich Brew Mafia (Germany).

14) Neue Bierkultur

As mentioned above, there’s the Neue Bierkultur organization, comprised of And Union, BRLO, Crew Republic, Stiegl, Maisel & Friends, Überquell, and Jeroen Bosch’s distributor Bierlinie, featuring the Belgian brews Het Anker and St. Bernardus. The group distributes to cities all across Germany.

They focus on modern craft beers like pale ales, IPAs, and porters from Germany, Austria, and Belgium and have a strong commitment to sustainable brewing practices like reusable beer bottles. Text: Andrew Wilkin, Photo: Julia Schwendner für Neue Bierkultur

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What a Distribution Deal with BrewDog Means for One Pint

German beer drinkers could be about get a lot more bark for their buck: craft beer darling BrewDog has chosen One Pint to be its new German distributor. We spoke with Bjarne Mark Hoier from One Pint to find out more about why he chose to take on the self-styled rebels of the beer industry and where he sees potential in the German market.

Before we begin, can you tell me something about the history of One Pint?

BH: We’ve been established for 15 years in Denmark, starting as a small company importing foreign beers from England, before adding beers from Scandinavia. We were one of the first craft beer distributors in the region, distributing beers that included Sierra Nevada and Fuller’s.

Later on, we started to get to know the German market – or the lack of one. In 2008, there was virtually no market for craft beer in Germany. One of our first steps into the region was in 2007, when we went to the Internorga Fair in Hamburg where we had a stall with Fuller’s, Sierra Nevada, and Samuel Smith.

From 2010 to 2014, we saw a huge improvement in the craft category and in 2014, we decided to go forward with One Pint Germany. We started with 40-50 beers and now we have nearly 300.

How did you and BrewDog get in contact with one another?

BH: We were already distributing BrewDog in Denmark, so it was a natural step for us to talk about Germany with them, too. It’s something we do with all the brands we represent in Denmark.

We consider ourselves a brand builder, not just a distributor. We’re not just buying and selling – we’re in direct contact with all the breweries we deal with. That’s the philosophy of One Pint, and once we presented it, it became clear it was similar to what they were looking for. We got chatting and soon enough, we had a deal.

What do you like about the BrewDog brand?

BH: They’re like the naughty boy in class! I like the way they are hoppy, geeky, good quality but also most important: easily drinkable. BrewDog really does make enjoyable beers. I like their marketing platform, too – they’ve succeeded all around the world by doing a variety of different things.

I’d also like to mention that they’ve tried to push the entire craft category. In their advertisements and with their bars they’re always advising the consumer to buy craft beer, and not necessarily just BrewDog beers. Just like us, they want the entire craft category to succeed.

BrewDog does come with some baggage. The company has changed distributors twice since first launching in Germany in 2010, and a publicised partnership with Brausturm never came to be. How do you feel about this?

BH: I have absolutely no worries at all – things like this happen. I can’t speak to what happened with the other companies, but I can say what we will do: work hard to build up BrewDog in Germany.

From my side, I run my company and build the brands the way I want, and in our history, we’ve only ever lost one brand: Cobra in Denmark. And that’s because they sold the business. So we’re clearly doing something the breweries like and I think we’re on the right track.

What do you see as the long term potential for BrewDog in Germany?

BH: I see a big future for BrewDog in Germany. They invest a lot in their brand, as you can see all around the world. This isn’t just about marketing stunts. The BrewDog guys want to make people feel as passionate about craft beer as they are. So they give people samples, attend festivals, and so on. Then there’s the Equity for Punks scheme which had more than 50,000 people sign up – and that says a lot about their beer. Getting people to really care about craft beer is their big mission.

What about the outlook for the craft beer scene in Germany in general?

BH: I still think if I compare Germany to other countries we are a few steps behind. Nevertheless, there is potential for real growth. For a long time craft was lagging far behind other countries – especially my own, Denmark – and now we are at a situation when I receive a call from you asking me about craft beer. We’ve also grown from a team of just 3 to 16 in Germany, and we’re still hiring!

We’ve seen newspapers and television become excited about craft too. Even traditional German breweries are making pale ales now, which is what I call real movement.

There are lots of people, however, who haven’t tried a craft beer in Germany, but here’s the good thing: Germany is a beer country, and it’s much easier to convince a beer drinker, rather than a wine drinker, to try a craft beer.

The interview has been edited for clarity.

Text: Andrew Wilkin

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Special beers at Brew Berlin: Trade show to serve up trends

Creative new beers – they’re what make Brew Berlin one of the top international destinations. On 10 and 11 October 2017, exciting names from the craft beer community will exhibit at the trade show, which is a part of the Bar Convent Berlin. Craft brewing of beers with special aromas is booming worldwide. Bar operators, restaurateurs and retailers from around the world come to Brew Berlin at Station Berlin to find out which beers they mustn’t miss. Here’s a first look.

Trend No. 1: Fruity but not sweet

“Beers are popular in 2017 that are pleasantly fruity thanks to fruity hops or dry-fermented fruits but that don’t taste sweet”, says Johannes Grohs from Next Level Brewing. Participating in Brew Berlin for the first time, the Austrian startup is leading by example. Grohs, who has a beer sommelier degree, and his partner, a multiple Austrian national hobby brewing champion, will present Lemon Thyme – Freestyle Gose, a beer spiced with lemon, thyme, Indian coriander and sea salt. “This is our freestyle version of the ancient German sour beer style”, explains Grohs. “The perfect match for seafood and fish.”

The Global Drinks Partnership, which specialises in distributing premium spirits with a focus on international premium beers and cider, will also introduce a fruity beer: Rubaeus, with fresh raspberries, is produced by Founders Brewing Company in Michigan. Launched about 20 years ago by two college students, the US company today is considered one of the top international craft brewers, supplying restaurants, bars and wholesalers in 23 countries.

Trend No. 2: Classic beer styles, reinterpreted

“Craft beer is all about a vast range of styles”, explains Marc Rauschmann from BraufactuM. Belgian styles, for example, are interesting but still under-represented, he says. “Old German styles are extremely exciting, too, brewed with lots of rough edges as they are.” Rauschmann is considered the craft beer authority in Germany. The holder of a doctorate in brewery technology brought the craft beer trend to Germany when he started his company in 2010 as a subsidiary of Radeberger Group.

Rauschmann first exhibited at Brew Berlin in 2011. He values the platform for its international audience of experts and its unparalleled closeness to the bar industry, which is meeting at the concurrent Bar Convent Berlin. “More and more bars are discovering craft beer for themselves. That means lots of potential for us producers.” Among the brews Rauschmann will be bringing to Brew Berlin this year is Soleya, a beer brewed in the Belgian saison style – a pale, highly attenuated ale with a pronounced hop flavour.

Hackney Hopster is similarly heavy on the hops. The Pacific pale ale by first-time exhibitor London Fields Brewery is brewed with hops from New Zealand and the US. “It’s our most popular beer,” says Danny Jennings, who describes the flavour as “strong, with an incredibly hoppy aroma.” He’ll be at Brew Berlin to win over the international audience of experts. “We aim to perpetuate our name on the craft beer map of London.”

Steamworks, a Canadian brewery, already realised last year that Brew Berlin generates lots of international attention for new brands. “We had a great response at the show and saw excellent sales after the show”, says Herbert Ottenschläger, who runs European distribution from his office in Bavaria. Among other products, Steamworks hopes to score points with the expert audience this year by presenting its Killer Cucumber Ale. “The lively ale with Belgian yeast and organic cucumber is without equal in Europe and perfect for beginners”, says Ottenschläger.

Trend No. 3: IPA with new momentum

The India pale ale is still the star of the craft beer movement. Expert Marc Rauschmann isn’t surprised: the “IPA is wonderfully versatile and variable. We brewers can experiment with many varieties of hops. That’s why the IPA will continue to deliver lots of fresh momentum for the industry.” Once again this year, several India pale ales will be available to sample at Brew Berlin. London Fields Brewery’s Easy IPA, for instance, has a soft, slightly bitter flavour and was designed for daily enjoyment – just like All Day IPA by Founders in the US. The Canadians at Steamworks will present Jasmine IPA, a well-balanced IPA with a soft finish to which jasmine flowers are added in the fermentation tank. And Next Level Brewing from Austria will be at the show to present Five O'Clock – Earl Grey IPA, a classic IPA that’s refined during brewing with real Earl Grey.

Think outside the beer stein: Cider at Brew Berlin

The worldwide success of craft beer has spurred growth for other traditional beverages: cider, for example. “In the UK, the markets for beer and cider are tightly interwoven”, says Luke Fenton from Thistly Cross Cider. “And more and more cider producers have been emerging in the wake of the craft beer revolution.” This trend is slowly starting to spill over from the UK to Europe and from there to the rest of the world, he adds. “Our ciders are already very popular in Sweden, France, Germany and even the US.”

Thistly Cross Cider will present seven different varieties at Brew Berlin. They’ll include Whisky Cask Cider, which is fermented with champagne yeast before maturing for six months in single malt casks. “The result is a subtle aroma with honey, vanilla and oak notes”, Fenton promises. Also at the show: Elderflower Cider, whose strong taste comes from wild elderberry.

About Brew Berlin

Beer for bars – that’s what Brew Berlin is all about. The annual trade show provides a platform for manufacturers and distributors of international premium beers to meet directly with restaurateurs, importers and specialist wholesalers. The Brew Berlin brand has been a part of the Bar Convent Berlin, Europe’s leading premium trade show for the bar and beverage industry, since 2013. In 2017, the successful trade show duo will take place at Station Berlin on 10 and 11 October. About 10,000 trade visitors are expected to attend.

Text: Official Press Release Photo: Thistly Cross Cider

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Besondere Biere auf Brew Berlin – Messe zeigt die Trends

Trend Nummer Drei: IPA mit neuen Impulsen Trend Nummer Zwei: Klassische Bierstile, neu interpretiert Kreative, neue Biere – dafür ist Brew Berlin eine der internationalen Topadressen. Am 10. & 11. Oktober 2017 präsentieren sich auf der Messe im Rahmen des Bar Convent Berlin spannende Namen der Craft Beer Szene. Das handwerkliche Brauen von Bieren mit besonderen Aromen boomt weltweit. Brew Berlin in der „Station Berlin“ informiert Barbetreiber, Gastronomen und Fachhändler aus aller Welt, welche Biere sie nicht verpassen dürfen. Hier ein erster Überblick.

Trend Nummer Eins: fruchtig, aber nicht süß

„Angesagt sind 2017 Biere, die durch fruchtigen Hopfen oder trocken vergorene Früchte angenehm fruchtig, aber nicht süß schmecken“, sagt Johannes Grohs von Next Level Brewing. Das österreichische Startup ist zum ersten Mal bei Brew Berlin und geht gleich mit gutem Beispiel voran. Mit „Lemon Thyme – Freestyle Gose“ präsentiert der Diplom-Biersommelier mit seinem Partner, dem mehrfachen österreichischen Staatsmeister der Hobbybrauer Alexander Beinhauer, ein Gewürzbier mit Zitrone, Thymian, indischem Koriander und Meersalz. „Das ist unsere Freestyle-Version des altertümlichen Deutschen Sauerbierstils“, erklärt Grohs. „Passt hervorragend zu Meeresfrüchten und Fisch.“

Auch Global Drinks Partnership, Spezialist für den Vertrieb von Premium-Spirituosen mit einem Schwerpunkt auf internationalen Premium Bieren und Cyder, wird ein fruchtiges Bier vorstellen: „Rubaeus“, mit frischen Himbeeren. Hergestellt wird es von der Founders Brewing Company aus Michigan. Vor rund 20 Jahren von zwei Studenten gegründet, zählt das US-Unternehmen heute zu den internationalen Top-Adressen für Craft Beer und beliefert Restaurants, Bars und Großhändler in 23 Ländern.

Trend Nummer Zwei: Klassische Bierstile, neu interpretiert

„Craft Beer steht für eine große Stilvielfalt“, erklärt Marc Rauschmann von BraufactuM. Interessant, aber noch unterrepräsentiert seien zum Beispiel belgische Stile. „Hochspannend sind auch alte deutsche Stile, mit Ecken und Kanten gebraut.“ Rauschmann gilt als Craft Beer Instanz in Deutschland. Der Doktor der Brauereitechnologie gründete sein Unternehmen 2010 als Tochtergesellschaft der Radeberger Gruppe und brachte damit den Craft Beer Trend nach Deutschland.

2011 war Rauschmann das erste Mal Aussteller bei Brew Berlin. Er schätzt die Plattform wegen des internationalen Fachpublikums und der einzigartigen Nähe zur Barbranche, die sich auf dem parallel stattfindenden Bar Convent Berlin trifft. „Immer mehr Bars entdecken das Thema Craft Beer für sich. Da gibt es für uns Hersteller viel Potenzial.“ In diesem Jahr wird Rauschmann unter anderem „Soleya“ zu Brew Berlin mitbringen, ein Bier im belgischen Saison-Stil – hell, hochvergoren und mit ausgeprägter Hopfennote.

Sehr hopfig wird es auch bei „Hackney Hopster“. Das Pacific Pale Ale des Neuaustellers London Fields Brewery wird mit neuseeländischem und US-amerikanischem Hopfen gebraut. „Es ist unser beliebtestes Bier“, sagt Danny Jennings und beschreibt den Geschmack als „kräftig, mit einem unglaublich-hopfigen Aroma.“ Bei Brew Berlin will er das internationale Fachpublikum davon überzeugen. „Unser Ziel ist es, London auf der Craft Beer Karte zu verewigen.“

Dass Brew Berlin neuen Marken eine große internationale Aufmerksamkeit verschafft, hat die kanadische Brauerei Steamworks schon vor einem Jahr erlebt. „Wir haben auf der Messe viel Zuspruch bekommen und nach der Messe sehr gut verkauft“, sagt Herbert Ottenschläger, der von Bayern aus den Europa-Vertrieb steuert. In diesem Jahr will Steamworks unter anderem mit dem „Killer Cucumber Ale“ beim Fachpublikum punkten. „Das spritzige Ale mit belgischer Hefe und Biogurke sucht europaweit seinesgleichen und eignet sich sehr gut für Einsteiger“, so Ottenschläger.

Trend Nummer Drei: IPA mit neuen Impulsen 

Star der Craft Beer Bewegung ist nach wie vor das India Pale Ale. Kein Wunder, meint Experte Marc Rauschmann „IPA ist sehr vielseitig und wandelbar. Wir Brauer können mit vielen Hopfensorten experimentieren. Deshalb wird IPA der Branche auch in Zukunft noch viele neue Impulse geben.“ Bei Brew Berlin werden in diesem Jahr verschiedene India Pale Ales zu probieren sein. Das „Easy IPA“ der London Fields Brewery zum Beispiel hat einen weichen, leicht bitteren Geschmack und ist für den täglichen Genuss konzipiert – genauso wie das „All Day IPA“ von Founders aus den USA. Die Kanadier von Steamworks stellen „Jasmine IPA“ vor: ein ausgewogenes IPA mit weichem Abgang, das im Reifetank mit Jasminblüten versetzt wird. Und Next Level Brewing aus Österreich präsentiert auf der Messe das „Five O‘Clock – Earl Grey IPA“: ein klassisches IPA, das beim Brauen mit echtem Earl Grey verfeinert wird.

Blick über den Humpenrand: Cider auf Brew Berlin

Der weltweite Erfolg des Craft Beers hat auch andere traditionelle Getränke beflügelt: Cider zum Beispiel. „In Großbritannien sind die Märkte für Bier und Cider eng miteinander verknüpft“, sagt Luke Fenton von Thistly Cross Cider. „Und die Craft-Beer-Revolution hat in ihrem Sog auch immer mehr Cider-Hersteller hervorgebracht.“ Dieser Trend schwappe allmählich aus Großbritannien nach Europa und von dort weiter in die Welt. „Unsere Cider sind bereits in Schweden, Frankreich, Deutschland, aber auch in den USA sehr populär.“

Bei Brew Berlin wird Thistly Cross Cider sieben verschiedene Sorten vorstellen. Darunter ist zum Beispiel der „Whisky Cask Cider“, der mit Champagner-Hefe fermentiert wird und dann sechs Monate in Single Malt Fässern reift. „Das sorgt für ein subtiles Aroma mit Honig-, Vanille- und Eichen-Note“, verspricht Fenton. Außerdem auf der Messe dabei: „Elderflower Cider“, bei dem wilder Holunder für einen kräftigen Geschmack sorgt.

Über Brew Berlin

Bier für Bars – das ist das Thema von Brew Berlin. Die jährliche Messe bietet Herstellern und Distributoren internationaler Premiumbiere den direkten Austausch mit Gastronomen, Importeuren und Fachgroßhändlern. Die Marke Brew Berlin ist seit 2013 Teil des Bar Convent Berlin, Europas bedeutendster Premium-Fachmesse der Bar- und Getränkeindustrie. 2017 findet das erfolgreiche Messeduo vom 10. bis 11. Oktober in der „Station Berlin“ statt. Erwartet werden rund 10.000 Fachbesucher.

Text: Offizielle Pressemitteilung Bild: Gili Shani

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The 10 Most Influential French Craft Breweries

This year, Bar Convent Berlin will turn its attention to France as the Country of Honour for the event. With such a rich brewing tradition, it’s surprising that French craft beer has been a comparative latecomer to the international scene. Before sampling the French selection at BCB, make sure you know these pioneers French craft brewing.

Increasingly dynamic, the French brewing scene today boasts more than 1000 micro-breweries, both independent and artisanal. From Bretagne to the Rhône-Alpes, these new beer players have left their jobs in finance, education, or communication to totally devote themselves to their passion. They’ve each set up their breweries on different scales, according to the investments and their development strategy. Still looking for an identity of their own, the majority are currently inspired by the Anglo-Saxon attitude, in search of the most aromatic hops from the United States, Germany, and New Zealand.

As in many countries, distribution is mainly local, due to reduced production volumes (with specialized distributors such as DBI). In the light of this new offer, more and more craft beer bars are emerging throughout France, such as La Fine Mousse, the first bar in Paris to present a range of 100% artisanal beers. Their second bar, La Robe et La Mousse, has just opened with a special menu of French beers, spirits and wines. The success of the last edition of the Planète Bière festival (26 and 27 March) and the extensive program of Paris Beer Week (May 5 to 13) testifies to the growing interest in French beer and terroir.

Here are the 10 breweries currently lighting up the French craft scene.

Thiriez: the pioneer

Located in North France, in the small village of Esquelbecq, not far from the Belgian border, Thiriez celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2016. Behind this brewery, you can find one of the pioneers of craft beer: Daniel Thiriez, a very active figure in the brewing community. After training at the IFBM (The French Institute of Drinks, Brewing and Malting) near Nancy and the Meurice Institute in Brussels, the former human resources professional set up in the local of the former Poidevin brewery, which ran until 1945. 

The Thiriez brewery developed its own signature yeast strain, which gives all its beers a distinctive character. With a production of 2200 hectoliters per year, the brewery offers an unfiltered, unpasteurized, bottle-fermented range, featuring traditional and organic beers, along with beers produced in collaboration with brewers from around the world. Thiriez Brewery is actively developing the international market and is present in 10 countries, including the United States. Daniel Thiriez appears at many international events like Brussels Beer Festival and provides training, particularly for American brewers.

Iconic beers: Blonde d'Esquelbecq (6.5% ABV): A bière de garde, Thiriez’s first and most successful beer, influenced by the Belgian style and characterized by a beautiful foamy head, with notes of citrus and a strong bitterness. Petite Princesse (2.9% ABV): A bière de table, created first in 2012 by the American brewery, Jester King. This collaborative beer is a low alcohol offering inspired by Jester King’s original recipe, but with the addition of the Thiriez house yeast and Saaz hops at the end of the boiling process.

Outland: the US style

Former teacher Yann Geffriaud discovered his passion for craft beer 15 years ago, while living in the United States. His friend Justin Crossley, founder of the famous Brewing Network, introduced him to the community of craft brewers in California and set Geffriaud on the path to founding Outland brewery. When Geffriaud came back to France in 2008, the French beer scene was still deserted, so he quickly developed his own beer skills by partnering with other brewers in the Île-de-France region. In March 2016, he finally opened his own brewery in Fontenay-Sous-Bois, in a 300 square metre building with a mash tun and five fermentation tanks. The target: a production of 9000 litres of beer per month. Between one-third and one-half of Outland’s beer is American-influenced. Since March this year, all of Outland’s craft beer range is available in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, thanks to Outland Bar, a partnership with Julien and Philippe from the famous beer Trois Huit. The bar has a beer cellar, images of the brewery, and a delicious craft food menu.

Iconic Beers:

Murica (6 % ABV): Indian Pale Ale, an American version of the style – blonde, dry and light, with bitter hops and citrus aromas. It’s a tribute to the first IPA Geffriaud tasted back in California, a "Classic American IPA", with a good balance between malt and the new hops of the time, Amarillo and Centennial. Barrel Aged Dried Apricot Brett Pale Ale (6,5 % ABV): mildly hopped and aged five months in oak barrels – a new experience for Geffriaud – with an important addition of dried apricots and brettanomyces wild yeast. This beer has a powerful gourmand aroma of dried apricots, a nice acidity, and a rustic dry side.

La Débauche: the creative

Based in Angoulême, La Débauche is the story of a couple of amateur brewers, Eglantine Clément and Aurélien Camandone, with a beautiful creative flair. At the end of 2013, they created their own brewery, which was successful very quickly with only two 120-hectoliters fermentation tanks. Their sudden popularity meant they needed to invest in new equipment to increase production. Faced with the refusal banks to give them a loan, they used a crowdfunding website to raise the money instead. Crowdfunding campaigns were still unusual in the world of beer at that time, and the pair immediately gained notoriety across the country. They also created a beer called Slap a Banker, just to thumb their noses at the banks. Today, La Débauche is one of the French brewers which exports a lot to countries like Brazil, Russia, Spain, and even Belgium. It specializes in black beers influenced by the Anglo-Saxon style, and beer aged in oak barrels. All 25 of their beers feature labels designed by illustrators, tattoo artists, and authors of comics. This year, La Débauche plans to move its brewery to new premises (equipped with a taproom) and increase production to 6000 hectoliters. www.brasserie-ladebauche.com Iconic beers: Big Boy (12 % ABV): a Russian Imperial Stout with a roasted flavour and a beautiful smooth texture. The label has been designed by Kegrea, inspired by the locomotives of Fifties, from which the beer takes its name.

Cognac Barrel (9.5% ABV): an amber beer aged in French oak barrels and made with Cognac VS. This original beer combines notes of candied, woody, and slightly bitter fruits. The label was designed by Geoffrey Grimal, a French illustrator.

Gallia: the historic

The city of Paris was full of breweries in the 19th century, and Gallia, based in the 14th arrondissement, was one of the most renowned. Competition and the industrialization of beer ended the activity of this prestigious brewery in 1968. Guillaume Roy and Jacques Ferté, two beer lovers and young guys of 26 and 27 years old, decided to revive the famous lager Gallia at the end of 2009. The beer was an immediate success in the world of ​​gastronomy. After producing the lager via partnerships with existing breweries, the pair opened their own brewery in 2016 in an old boiler factory in Pantin, with the talented brewers Simon Hicher and more recently Remy Maurin. Using their high-tech German equipment, Gallia is expecting a production volume of 6000 hectoliters for 2017 (compared to 4000 in 2016). After the success of the lager, the brewery has developed five other beers with German and Anglo-Saxon influences. For 2017, Gallia is considering numerous projects around the brewery, including tastings, a beer bar, and cultural events. In June, Gallia will launch a new range of more experimental beers.

Iconic beers: The lager (5,5 % ABV): the original Gallia, brewed with French malt Pilsner and Strisselspalt hops. The founders succeeded in their goal to reproduce this historic recipe, characterized by notes of freshness and light bitterness, with a biscuity malt taste. Citrofortunella (6,5% ABV): an India Pale Lager and Gallia’s first collaborative beer with Les Brasseurs du Grand Paris, made with calamondin (a cross between kumquat and mandarin) and marked by beautiful notes of citrus.

Les Brasseurs du Grand Paris: the Innovator

The creation of this brewery was the dream of more than one prolific amateur brewer. The story begins in 2011: on the one hand, Fabrice Le Goffe, a freelance IT professional who produced homebrew in his office on the 5th floor of a building in Levallois, and the other hand, Anthony Baraff who learned to brew in New York before coming to settle in Paris. They met in 2012 and bonded over their passion for beer. Before long, they created Les Brasseurs du Grand Paris.

In order to increase capacity and improve their recipes, they used colleagues’ breweries around Paris – at Volcelest for their first beer, La Levalloise, and the rest of the range (6 in total) at Parisis and Rabourdin. Since March this year, the production of their beer has been done in their own brewery in Saint-Denis, equipped with four brewing tanks of 20 hectoliters, five fermentation tanks of 40 hectoliters, and an isobarometric bottling line. The success of Les Brasseurs du Grand Paris is linked to their meticulous work ethic and the quality of their American-influenced beers. They use only very aromatic American and New Zealand hops. Unlike most other breweries in France, Les Brasseurs has worked closely with the cocktail world, collaborating with renowned bars such as Little Red Door and Lulu White for malt mixed drinks. This is a brewery in full flight.

Iconic beers: La Levalloise (5.7% ABV): India Pale Ale, awarded several times and named after Le Goffe’s first small brewing room in Levallois. This beer is made with Cascade and Amarillo hops that provide sweet notes of citrus and a balanced bitterness. La Levalloise will soon replaced by La Denise (named for the location of the new brewery in Saint-Denis) basis of the same flavours. Citra Galactic (6.5% ABV): India Pale Ale, highly appreciated for its explosive notes of lemon and tropical fruit. The French bartenders also use it in cocktails and IPA syrups – very tasty.

Jenlain: the tradition and the innovation

An historic family French brewery and one of the most attractive, Jenlain was born in 1922 in a small village of the same name in the North of France. Its founder, Félix Duyck, created the first amber bière de garde, with high fermentation and no pasteurization and which would be sold twenty years later in a champagne bottle. This was a true revolution in the French beer scene. For a long time, the brewery stuck to making a single product. Five generations later, Mathieu Duyck took over this medium-sized independent brewery of 45 employees. His challenge: to give Jenlain a new image and a new design. Taking some cues from the world of craft spirits, Jenlain began offering a new range of limited edition beers every year called L'Humeur du Brasseur and a collection dedicated to cellar networks in 2017. Mathieu Duyck has today made the choice to reduce the distribution to large supermarket chains, in order to improve the image of the brewery. This is a traditional brewery in the renovation phase.

Iconic beers: Jenlain ambré (7,5 % ABV): A bière de garde and the first historic beer of the brewery made with several hops: Magnum for the bitter taste, Brewers Gold and Strisselpalt for aromatic flavours. This beer reveals beautiful notes of bitterness, as well as citrus fruits, with a long length in the mouth. L’humeur du brasseur (6 % ABV): the new limited edition, seasonal beer series with a new recipe every year, made with hops from Alsace and Flanders.

Volcelest, Brasserie de la vallée de Chevreuse: the organic

An expert in wine, Emmanuel Rey transferred his passion for liquids to beer and created his brewery in 2008 in the Regional Natural Park of the Chevreuse Valley at the very beginning of the effervescence of craft beer in France. Certified organic, Volcelest has introduced to Parisians the aromatic flavours of beer craft, and its entire range of beers is present today among the prestigious restaurants in the Île-de-France region. Rey loves the style of American craft beers with fruity hops. He has chosen to classify his beers traditionally by colour (blonde, amber and brown), but he also produces special beers such as saisons. His previous work as a cellar master has also given him an interest in beer aged in new oak or bourbon barrels. Now well established and distributed by La Fine Mousse (one of the big distributors of craft beer in Île-de-France), the Volcelest brewery is aiming to double its production volume by the end of the year.

Iconic beers: Volcelest Bio Blonde (5,7% ABV): the first product from Volcelest, characterized by freshness and lemony aromas thanks to the two hops, Cascade and Saaz. Homemade (7,5% ABV): a blonde and organic beer made in collaboration with the famous French chef Cyril Lignac and exclusively distributed in his establishments, with a sweet and refined profile. Ideal for pairing with food.

Brasserie Mont Salève: the OVNI

Located in Neydens in Haute-Savoie since 2010 (the Rhône-Alpes region boasts the largest number of microbreweries in France), Mont Salève represents one of the most innovative and active companies on the French craft beer scene. Its founder, Mickael Novo, a former chemist, had a strong passion for hops and their rich aromatic palette. He works with malts, which are cultivated and malted in the region by Les Malteurs d’Echo, a local cooperative. The brewery has expanded its range of beer to 50 types, none of which are filtered or pasteurized. The beers are in the Anglo-Saxon style, with a Mont Salève touch. After extensive work on the hops, Mont Salève has been experimenting for four years with the yeast from grapes for a new style of beer which is very aromatic. Novo works in the international market and participates in several beer events all over the word.

Iconic beers:

Mont Salève Sorachi Ace Bitter (2.5% ABV): a light beer characterized with notes of herbaceous bitterness, citrus and lots of hops. No doubt a beer for experts. Mont Salève Blonde Sur Marc (5,8 % ABV): a blonde beer, fermented with grape skin, characterized by a sour and fruity profile.

Parisis: the instigators

Behind this brewery with a name inspired by Gallic people are two agricultural engineers: Eric Esnault, founder of the Yvette beer in 2008, and Jonathan Abergel who joined him in 2012 to create their micro brewery in Epinay sous Senart. Parisis was one of the first craft breweries in the Île-de-France region. In order to produce a quality beer, they sourced malts of French origin, while relying on hops of foreign origin. On the menu of Parisis: blonde, amber, white, and saisons, with the brewery’s high quality cereals delivering excellent flavour. In the spirit of the craft beer community, the brewery hosts many young brewers who use the space to create their very own brews. With their new equipment, Parisis has just doubled its production volume. We hope to see more innovative beers from them soon.

Iconic beers: IPA Under Senart (7.9% ABV): An Imperial IPA, strongly hopped with Mosaic and Simcoe hops as well as Pilsner and Munich malts. It evolves into a surprisingly complex aroma: sweet, bitter, citrus, pine, herbs, caramel, and biscuit. Parisis Blonde (6.5% ABV): a beer displaying exotic aromas and a slight bitterness. Ideal to pair with various dishes and to discover the world of the French craft beer.

Brasserie du Pays Flamand: the experimental

This is one of the most influential breweries in Northern France. Based in Blaringhem not far from the border of French Flanders and Artois, Brasserie du Pays Flamand was created in 2006 in an old distillery which ceased operating in the Second World War. The two founders of the brewery, Olivier Duthoit and Mathieu Lesenne, are childhood friends. They first developed a bière de garde before turning to two other categories. The first is a beer with high fermentation, distinguished by its hopped character, called Anosteké. The second is beer aged in different types of barrels, including bourbon, Scotch, and red wine barrels, called Wilde Leevw, and placed under the control of a cellar master, Clément Thimonier. The brewery has done an excellent job concerning the design of their bottles, elegant in shape and an opaque black in colour. Located near Bloempot, the Flemish restaurant of Florent Ladeyn, La Brasserie du Pays Flamand worked with the famous chef to create the beer La Fière, a very aromatic and well balanced blonde beer.

Iconic beers: Bracine Blonde (6% ABV): A bière de garde typical of the Nord de Palais style and the first blonde produced by the brewery and awarded several times, notably at the Salon de l’Agriculture in 2011. This beer is characterized by fruity flavours and spicy notes. Wild Leevw bière brune tourbée vieillie en fût de whisky (10% ABV): peat brown ale aged 10 months in Scotch whisky oak barrel. On the palate, it reveals pronounced woody notes, whiskey, malt, and caramel.

Text: Laurence Marot, Photo: Brasserie du Pays Flamand. 

[brewberlin]

This year’s German Beer Day (which is celebrated annually on April 23rd) brought a big surprise - the announcement of the new Deutsche Kreativbrauer association. It’s made up of ten German craft brewers who are unhappy with the restrictions of the German Reinheitsgebot and the way things are run at Germany’s main association Deutscher Brauerbund. These are the founding members:

Andreas Seufert – Pax Bräu Oberelsbach Oliver Wesseloh – Kehrwieder Kreativbrauerei Thomas Wachno – Hopfenstopfer Christian Hans Müller – Hanscraft & Co. Kolja Gigla – Mashsee Brauerei Johannes Heidenpeter – Heidenpeters Simon Siemsglüss – Buddelship Brauerei Hamburg Fritz Wülfing – Ale-Mania Craftbeer Thorsten Schoppe – Schoppe Bräu Berlin Maximilian Krieger – Riedenburger Brauhaus

While most of the founding members of Deutsche Kreativbrauer e.V. are micro brewers with between 1.000 and 2.000 hectoliters (850 to 1.700 barrels) yearly production, founding member Riedenburger Brauhaus is a classic family run German “Mittelstand” brewery with 26.000 hectoliter (ca. 22.000 barrels) output. 

What’s noticable is the absence of the word “craft” in the name of the Deutsche Kreativbrauer association. The adaption of the U.S. American definition of the term to the German market led to countless debates among progressive brewers and beer lovers alike. Kehrwieder’s Oliver Wesseloh, who did collaboration brews with Sierra Nevada and Uerige amongst others, had been promoting the term creative brewer (”Kreativbrauer”) in numerous interviews and public statements instead. And that’s the term the new assocation adopted.

Central part of the manifesto of the association is the so called “Natürlichkeitsgebot”. This law or decree of naturalness is maybe the toughest set of rules ever put together by craft brewers. These are some of the rules the ten founders put down:

- All edible components that do not endanger the health of consumers in any way may be used in the brewing process. That’s where the new association tries to break up the restricting rules of the German purity law.

- No colours, concentrates, essences, or artificial components may be used. This rule is a clear statement against the use of the filtering agent Polyvinylpolypyrrolidon (PVPP) by many German brewers that has led to heated debates in the past. This is also where the new assocation makes a statment against lax European Union laws that allow way more artificial components in the brewing process.

- No filtration or preserving techniques like the pasteur method may be applied to the finished product. Note that the uninterrupted cold chain is far from standard in Germany’s beverage and distribution industry. 

- Members of the Deutsche Kreativbrauer have to be indpendent breweries. They can’t be partly or fully owned by non-member breweries. The major shareholder of the brewery has to actively run his or her business.

- The members commit themselves to never apply Pay-to-play tactics in their sales activities and to promote diversity instead. 

Apart from promoting this set of rules the Deutsche Kreativbrauer association will provide members with legal support, networking opportunities, and use synergies in sourcing and buying raw materials. The German craft beer movement will certainly gain momentum with this new lobby group entering the game. The Facebook site of Deutsche Kreativbrauer garnered over 1.400 fans in less than 24 hours. That’s quite a remarkable start for the size of the German market. We’ll keep you posted!

Text: Helmut Adam Photo: Deutsche Kreativbrauer e.V.

[brewberlin]

The Commodification of Beer In Germany: What Destroyed the Pilsner Threatens Craft Beer

It is not often written about, but modern Germany has an unusually monotonous beer drinking culture, that offers a stark contrast to its rich brewing heritage. The beer selection in the vast majority of bars and restaurants is limited to two or three beer brands. At the bar itself, pump clips - or indeed any branding on the tap handle - is virtually non-existent, as beer orders are taken at the table. In general, the order you hear from patrons will most often be the generic “ein Bier, bitte”, where in the north of Germany this is invariably going to be a Pilsner.

Of course, there are regional exceptions that don’t fit this template, like the beer halls and beer gardens of Bavaria or indeed any of the new dedicated craft beer bars that are rapidly being opened in cities across the country. But the fact remains that for most Germans in 2017, “beer” is synonymous with German Pilsner and German breweries produce the best Pilsner in the world.

The Sad Fate of the German Pilsner

Over the last decade, domestic sales of German Pilsner have continuously dropped, year on year. Germans are famously price-conscious and the cost of a beer is one that is least prone to inflation. Bar owners in turn expect to purchase their 50L keg of German Pilsner for 70€ wholesale and this is typically marked up by 300% when sold on to the consumer.

There has been a rush to the bottom, with breweries competing on price rather than on quality. When “ein Bier” is an interchangeable commodity, there are very few consumers who are going to appreciate subtle differences in the malt character or expect generous late kettle additions for hop aroma in a German Pilsner. According to feedback by German brewers who have been in the industry for decades, the gravity of Pilsner has dropped and it has become less bitter, to appeal to as wide an audience as possible. As long as the beer is clear and the foam white and fluffy, it will look appealing in TV spots and on posters.

The poor state of the industry was hammered home in January and April of 2014, when antitrust regulators in Germany imposed a total fine of €337.7 million on eleven of the largest brewing companies (and one regional brewing association) that organised a cartel to fix the prices of draught beer and crates of bottled beer. With no further corners to cut within the brewery walls, illegal tactics were employed in the sale and distribution.

What is happening to Craft Beer?

Pale Ales and IPAs have been brewed in Germany for little more than five years. Most of the first brewers to take on these styles were brewing these beers on a small scale (10HL or less) and were uncompromising with their ingredients and recipe formulation, trying to emulate beers from US craft breweries. Craft beer became a new drinks category, with kegs of beer sold to bars at twice the price of Pilsner and bottles usually more.

However, as the number of small breweries has grown in the last five years and with several now expanding production to be able to quench the thirst of curious beer drinkers across Germany, compromises are being made in the brewery again to gain market share and/or increase profitability. This is by no means universal – with many brewers choosing not to expand and to focus exclusively on their local market – but the general trend in unmistakeable in bars and on supermarket shelves, as this profitable new beer segment grows rapidly in Germany.

Trends To Be Aware Of

Commoditisation of Styles By Compromising on Ingredients

Perhaps the biggest threat to craft beer in Germany is the corruption of styles, in an order to cut costs. No beer style has seen a greater fall into blandness than the American Pale Ale has since its arrival in Germany, a flagship style that should demonstrate the creativity of a brewer. The cost of US hops has risen dramatically in recent years and access to some varieties has become impossible, especially for new German breweries without contracts. Unlike the US, the mass-produced Pale Ales that are appearing in bars and vying for attention on German supermarket shelves are using dramatically lower hop quantities for aroma (late-kettle and dry-hopping) and substituting US varieties with German varieties, that simply don’t have the same fruity aromatic profiles of e.g. Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo or Citra.

Aggressive Competition on Price

As larger international breweries such as Stone Brewing Company and Brooklyn Brewery arrived in the bars and supermarkets around Germany in 2016, it quickly became apparent that their significantly larger brewing capacity (in Berlin and Brooklyn, respectively) meant that they could offer beer at lower prices than smaller German breweries. Although these breweries have not compromised the quality of these beers, their size will make it impossible for German brewers with small systems to compete on price: only larger breweries, like Beck’s, will be able to offer beers at the same price point (or lower). For the price-conscious German market, this is dangerous.

An Over-Extended Shelf Life

Beer is a fresh natural food product. With negligible exceptions, the closer you drink it to the packaging date, the better condition it will be in. Unfortunately, in Germany there is no regulation on the best before date (Mindesthaltbarkeitsdatum or MHD) for beer, so breweries are free to decide for themselves, depending on their distribution. Brewers of German Pilsner have often been using 9 months or more. Fortunately, these beers have little hop aroma to begin with.

Popular craft beer styles that have been heavily dry-hopped, such as Pale Ales and IPAs, should be consumed as fresh as possible – but no later than 6-8 weeks after packaging. This is already the self-imposed timeline used for the fresh, unpasteurized beers from Franconian breweries and the reason these are not distributed nationwide. Instead, for ambitious breweries, that want to distribute domestically and internationally, the trend we see is one of an extended MHD for periods as long as 6 months or more for these beer styles. If this trend continues, what were fruity, aromatic Pale Ales and IPAs at the time of packaging, will become insipid by the time they reach the consumer.

Conclusion

It simply costs more to create craft beer styles in a small brewery by hand than it does to mass-produce Pilsner in a factory brewery. Hops are expensive – but essential for the aromas in Pale Ales and IPAs. Maturation times for stouts are longer than for most other beer styles. Belgian ales need carefully fine-tuned fermentation temperatures, to allow the yeast to produce the appropriate phenols and esters. Quality raw materials, extended fermentation time and technical expertise all have an associated cost.

Both bars and consumers must understand this and be willing to pay the difference. Without this understanding, we run the risk of having compromised, watered-down versions of Pale Ale and other new styles as standard and a market where small German breweries will struggle to survive.

All Pale Ales are not created equal… don’t let “ein Pale Ale” become another commodity….

Text by Rory Lawton Photo: Brauer Bund

[brewberlin]

The Double Standards of the German Brewers’ Association

A couple of weeks ago, Brew Berlin co-founder Helmut Adam sat down with the Managing Director of the German Brewer’s Association, Holger Eichele, in order to discuss his take on the status of beer in Germany today. The interview focused on the so-called “Reinheitsgebot” purity law, the use of additives and the benefits of an association that safeguards the interests of beer brewers.

The following is a response from Rory Lawton, challenging the assertions and highlighting the inconsistencies in the argumentation used by the Brewers Association.

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For many of my colleagues working with beer in Germany, 2016 has been an exhausting year. For some, it has been a cause to celebrate 500 years of an historic purity law. For others, tired of being told what to keep out of their mash tuns, these celebrations around the anniversary were an excuse to publicly challenge the myths and need for such restrictions in a modern brewing industry. The resulting noisy exchange between these two sides produced a lot of heat, but very little light.

As the year comes to a close, I wish to challenge the assertions made by Holger Eichele in his recent interview for Brew Berlin, as it clearly shows the inconsistencies in the arguments regularly employed by the German Brewers Association and the slight-of-hand used to cover these up.

Four Natural Ingredients: Water, Malt, Hops & Yeast

Holger Eichele states at the outset that “brewing beer is still restricted to four natural ingredients – water, malt, hops and yeast”. In the interests of intellectual honesty, let us put aside both the omission of yeast from the original 1516 decree and the later substitution of barley with ‘malted barley’. For arguments sake, we can consider these adjustments as updates in the spirit of the original 1516 decree.

However, as Holger Eichele surely knows, it is not true to state that beer brewed in Germany today is limited to just these four natural ingredients. I have stood beside professional brewers in Germany – even in Bavaria! – as they adjust the pH of their mash by pouring lactic acid into the mash tun. Note that there is nothing wrong with this brewing practise: lactic acid itself can be a natural product and it allows for increased enzymatic activity and gives the brewer control that is otherwise difficult to achieve (e.g. with acidulated malt).

The myth of the four natural ingredients is loosely applied to German beer styles, but brought out as a challenge to purity when criticising non-German beer styles, such as some strong Belgian ales, where a small amount of natural sugar is used to create a drier beer, or Irish stout, where a small amount of unmalted, roasted barley is used for its strong roasted flavour and dark black colour.

PVPP: When You Can Have Your Cake And Eat It

Polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP) is an artificially created fining agent used by large breweries all around the globe. While the use of PVPP to create clear beer is safe, the use of this agent in German breweries is the strongest argument that shows the hypocrisy of pretending that there has been a continuous 500-year tradition of the Reinheitsgebot. Holger Eichele states: "Do we honestly want to reject a modern filtration technology just because it wasn’t already developed in 1516?". Here, I am in complete agreement with Herr Eichele. But this moment of clarity betrays the institution that he is trying to protect.

If we take Holger Eichele at his word, then there is no reason not to allow use of other fining agents (e.g. isinglass, Irish moss) for mechanical filtration. It is easy to see that with this type of argumentation, anything could be permitted, including artificial preservatives, colours and flavours. The truth is that the tradition is swapped for convenience whenever it suits the established German brewing industry and the commercial pressures that they face.

The bottom line is that German beer drinkers expect their Pilsner to be clear. PVPP is inexpensive and highly effective. Therefore, PVPP is allowed. It’s unfortunate that it has nothing to do with a 500-year-old document.

The Law In Its Current Form Is Not Working

According to Holger Eichele, at the German Brewers Association, "we maintain close contact with our craft brewers and we can see that the law in its current form is working". No, it's not. Throughout the summer of 2016, creative brewers in Berlin were regularly being told not to use coffee, fruit, herbs and spices that they wished to use, even if they indicate it clearly in packaging.

The law in its current form works for brewers that regularly produce beer styles that are part of the modern German brewing tradition. It is pure luck that pale ales, IPAs, porters and stouts happen to use similar ingredients and can be brewed in accordance with the law.

The law in its current form does not work for any brewer who would like to brew Irish stout, oatmeal stout, milk stout, sahti, kvass, Belgian witbier or indeed any beer with herbs and spices (styles pre-dating the 1516 decree).

Switcheroo: The Reinheitsgebot Is Not A Seal Of Quality

According to Holger Eichele, the Reinheitsgebot is “the preeminent legal guideline for German beer production and a seal of quality recognized around the world”. It is important to stress the following point, as this idea that the Reinheitsgebot is a seal of quality is an illogical leap that is repeated over and over again, although it is blatantly false.

As a restriction, the purity law - by definition - cannot be a seal of quality. The 1516 decree limits the ingredients that can be used for brewing, but has no positive, active influence in the quality of the ingredients, the brewing methods used or the skill of the brewer.

Let’s get this straight for once and for all: Germany does have a long, rich brewing tradition that goes back much further than 1516. However, this is entirely independent of the restrictive law that applied to Bavaria for 400 years and was then extended to the rest of Germany.

If a beer from a German brewery is of a high quality, it is because a skilled brewer used quality ingredients and knowledge passed down through centuries to make a good product. Even though he may not admit it himself, his art has been hijacked and mass-marketed so that cheap imitations can be sold under false pretences.

See: We have a marketing gag!

Beer sales in Germany have fallen significantly over the last decade. The goal of the German Brewers Association is not so much to champion for quality beer in German beer glasses, but rather to preserve the myth of the German beer legacy for the international markets that are growing rapidly. The tool being used to achieve this is the so-called Reinheitsgebot and the mythic link to a 500-year-old document that no other nation can compete with.

I hope that I have convinced readers that (i) the restrictions of 1516 are not applied by German brewers today, (ii) the laws are changed to suit larger German brewers, (iii) the laws are not working for small brewers who wish to brew non-German beer styles and (iv) that the restriction is anything but a seal of quality. In summary: in 2016 the "Reinheitsgebot" is ONLY a marketing gimmick, nothing more.

Text: Rory Lawton Photo: Deutscher Brauerbund

[brewberlin]

“The Reinheitsgebot is no marketing gag”

As the Managing Director of the German Brewer’s Association, Holger Eichele is the man presiding over many of Germany’s beer-related issues and happenings, so we were eager to get his take on beer’s status today. Brew Berlin founder Helmut Adam sat down with Holger for a wide-ranging chat about everything from Germany’s traditional “Reinheitsgebot” purity law, the use of additives and the benefits of an association that safeguards the interests of beer brewers.

Germany’s “Reinheitsgebot”, or “Beer Purity Law”, is now approaching the end of its 500th anniversary. That’s right: 500 years. This year’s celebrations of the iconic brewing standard have almost ironically taken place in an environment of rapid change on the German beer landscape. Even the accustomed complaints of the brave, small-scale craft brewers quixotically charging the windmills of the establishment can begin to ring a little hollow when companies like Stone Brewing are joining the German Brewers Association. It appears that the Old World and the New World are finding common ground faster than generally assumed. We spoke with the German Brewer’s Association Managing Director Holger Eichele at length about issues like hops extract and polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, and we asked whether it’s OK to describe the Reinheitsgebot as “censorship” like Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione did recently.

Brew Berlin: Holger, we have heard repeatedly that the Reinheitsgebot is an obstacle to creativity, most recently from Dogfish Head Brewery chief Sam Calagione, who described it as a form of “censorship”. 

Could you please explain the legal requirements for brewing beer in Germany from the association’s perspective, especially for our readers abroad? And could you also shed some light on the German Brewer’s Association’s position on experimental and international beers?

Holger Eichele: Anyone referring to the Reinheitsgebot as censorship, folklore or a marketing gag has unfortunately missed the point of this special German brewing tradition. The Reinheitsgebot governs not only which ingredients are permitted in beer, but also those that are not. In contrast to breweries abroad, German breweries operating in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot are still prohibited from using any artificial flavorings, dyes, stabilizers, no enzymes, no emulsifiers and no preservatives. Brewing beer is still restricted to four natural ingredients – water, malt, hops and yeast. This means that the brewing process is more elaborate and demanding than in some foreign breweries.

Other traditional skilled crafts businesses like butchers and bakers are only now beginning to invest heavily into reducing the amount of additives in their products. Beer brewers in Germany have been making beer without additives for centuries. That’s an achievement we don’t want to jeopardize. All of the brewers in the German Brewer’s Association are unanimous on that point. At the same time, 15 of the 16 German states also permit experimental and international beer styles to be brewed alongside Reinheitsgebot beers. “Special beers” is the legal term used to describe the beers covered by these special regulations, and they fully allow for brewing procedures using ingredients like natural spices, fruits or herbs. As the trade association for this sector, we make sure that the presiding authorities deal with these products and their manufacturers unbureaucratically without placing unnecessary obstacles in the brewers’ paths.  

On the craft beer scene, hops extract and the polymer polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP) are often cited as examples of how inconsistent the Reinheitsgebot is. Critics say that the law actually only allows top quality natural raw materials to be used, but makes exemptions for production shortcuts like those mentioned above. What is the stance of the German Brewer’s Association on this?

HE: Hops extracts, which are also used by craft brewers by the way, are nothing more than natural hops in concentrated form. They are in no way an artificial product, as some might suggest. Cone hops have an extremely limited shelf life, even when they are stored air-tight under optimum conditions. For breweries however, maintaining sufficient supplies is crucial for ensuring that they have the ingredients needed for the whole year and can produce beer of the same high quality throughout the year, despite fluctuating harvests. Hops extract is only obtained from hop cones by which the same enhancing hop ingredients are enriched that also dissolve in the beer wort when cone hops are used. Hop extract is a raw material of the highest quality, which is why it is also significantly more expensive than natural hops or pellets.

In contrast to hops, PVPP is not a natural ingredient. It is a technical additive used in filtration. Its function is purely mechanical, meaning that it doesn’t remain in the finished beer. Unfortunately the facts and the myths get confused in this discussion. Do we honestly want to reject a modern filtration technology just because it wasn’t already developed in 1516? The core principle of the Reinheitsgebot is different.  

According to your statements, the legislation in 15 out of 16 German states allows for exceptions to the Reinheitsgebot. For example, in the state of Brandenburg a clause in the Brewing Directive says, “Significant leeway must be provided for exemptions”. These exemptions were rarely asserted in the past, but with the boom in craft beers one can assume that over the next few years exceptions like these will become the rule. What made the courts interpret the directive in this way? Why wasn’t this initiative started by the lawmakers or even through PR work by the German Brewer’s Association itself?

HE: Legislatures have made the laws and courts have interpreted the laws since states were first formed, not trade associations. In 2005 the German Supreme Court established that considerable leeway has to be provided for exemptions to the Reinheitsgebot, and that beers containing seasonings or fruits are also permitted to be called “beer”. 

You’re right that only a few years ago these beer styles really didn’t play a role, and many government authorities and even brewers didn’t know about the exemption. While today 99 percent of all the beer produced and consumed in Germany still complies with the Reinheitsgebot, the demand for experimental beer styles is growing. We maintain close contact with our craft brewers and we can see that the law in its current form is working. And if there should ever be a problem with an official authority, we’ll be right there.    

Although you represent Germany’s national brewer’s association, what can we anticipate from the state of Bavaria in terms of exemptions to the Reinheitsgebot? The Bavarian Brewer’s Association has persistently refused up to now to recognize the status of beer styles not brewed in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot as “beer”.

HE: I don’t share your view on that. We have been working closely with the Bavarian brewers for some time on finding a comprehensive legal solution to regulate the production of international beer styles and special brewed products in Germany, without questioning the validity of the Reinheitsgebot as the preeminent legal guideline for German beer production and a seal of quality recognized around the world. I’m confident that we will find a workable solution.

What conclusions has the German Brewer’s Association drawn up to now from the 500th anniversary of the Reinheitsgebot?

HE: The anniversary has been a godsend for all of our brewers. More has been said, written, broadcast and even argued about beer this year than in the last 100 years. Brewing and the raw materials for our beer are currently undergoing a true renaissance. People are talking again about hops and malt varieties, the enormous diversity of available beers, craft beer and home-brewing sets instead of just which beer is cheapest by the case at the supermarket. Isn’t that great?

Many of the new German craft beer brewers are taking a stand against the Reinheitsgebot, some more loudly than others. Is this new generation of brewers also joining the German Brewer’s Association?

HE: For years the number of breweries in Germany has been growing, and most of these new companies are craft breweries. Many of them are organized within the regional wings of the German Brewer’s Association because they appreciate the services we provide. For example, the German Brewer’s Association advises its members on dealing with government authorities and the trade sector, on obtaining permits for their breweries and equipment, on the declaration of beers, on hygiene and food product law, on tax law and on laws regarding packaging and environmental protection. 

In short, our job is to make sure that our breweries enjoy the best possible framework conditions. That’s no picnic, especially at a time when European policy is promoting more and more regulation.  

How does the German Brewer’s Association see itself compared with other brewer associations around the world? Is its structure more like that of the American Brewer’s Association or those from other European countries? What is the difference between the German beer industry and its counterparts in other large markets?

HE: The German beer market is unique in every way. With annual sales of 95 million hectoliters, Germany is Europe’s largest beer producer, and it still remains the land of family-operated breweries. 

Most of Germany’s brewing conglomerates are also family-owned. Our range of beer brands and the number of breweries are also unique. My American colleagues don’t want to admit it, but brewery density is higher in Germany than in the USA!

What is the Managing Director of the German Brewer’s Association’s beer of choice when he’s feeling thirsty?

HE: I’m always eager to try out new things, so I’m constantly scanning the menu for beers I haven’t tried yet. When I’m really thirsty I also like to start out with an alcohol-free beer – one of the best inventions of the last century.

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Holger Eichele will be part of next week’s Brew Berlin panel “Where will be the German Beer Culture in 5 Years? - Forecasts, Dreams, Hard Truths”.

Date: 11 October 2016 // Time: 3 p.m. to 3:45 p.m. // Location: Brew Berlin Beer Stage

Original text: Helmut Adam Translation: J.J. Collier

[brewberlin]

Introducing Greek beer expert and BeerBartender Nicola Radisis

Funnily enough, Nicola Radisis got into beer by way of spirits. Once a bartender serving beer, cocktails and coffee, the native Athenian and marketing graduate was enjoying the fledgling cocktail wave in the early 2000’s and tasting new types of cocktails. He then one day was drinking a beer and thought: “why I am not searching for different beers for the bar menu too”?

He got researching, learning about and tasting new types of beer, just before the micro-brewery trend emerged in Greece. He also started to experiment with beer cocktails. It all leads up to his work as head honcho at BeerBartender, the Greek site for beer he launched in 2012 and the BeerLab, established in 2014, which organizes professional services, tastings and beer. He also organizes the BeerBartender Awards in Greece, is responsible for the beer selection at the HouseOfWine Greek online shop and is a member of various important beer groups and organizations, including the Hellenic Barmen Association, British Guild of Beer Writers and CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale).

That’s a beer-based résumé to marvel at. But that’s not it. As well as representing BCB in his native country - to bring more exhibitors and industry guests over for the annual show - this year he will be a guest-speaker at the International Beer Trends talk (Wednesday 12.10.16, 14:00 - 14:45, Beer Stage). Looking for a preview prior to the big event, we decided to catch up over an IPA. What’s the deal with the Greek beer scene?

Speaking to BREW BERLIN, he describes a scene that is - on the whole - expanding. It’s a scene dominated by two big brewers to the tune of 75% of the market, the Athenian Brewery, a part of the Heineken Group with brands including Heineken, Amstel, Fischer and the Greek beer ALFA, and the Olympic Brewery, newly created after the 2014 merger of Carlsberg owned Mythos Brewing and Olympic Brewing. Their homegrown brands include Fix Hellas, relaunched into the Greek market in 2010, and Mythos, alongside Tuborg, Kronenbourg, Baltika and other international brands. “According to the Brewers of Europe in Greece we produce about 3.750.000 hectoliters (*2014), from which the two big breweries, who produce the majority of it, while microbreweries and gypsy breweries produce in total 35.000 hectoliters/year.”

“By now we have more than 25 microbreweries around Greece. From the small Aegean islands to the North of the country.”

He goes on to describe the microbrewery scene further. “By now we have more than 25 microbreweries around Greece. From the small Aegean islands to the North of the country,” he summarizes. “And in the last year we also have a lot of gypsy breweries making their first appearance in the Greek Market.” Some examples of craft breweries in Greece well-worth your attention include the Chios Microbrewery (Chios), Septem Microbrewery (Evia island), Siris MicroBrewery (Serres), and Patraiki Brewery (Patras). Unlike in other countries, the micro-brewery trend spreads far from the capital and major cities in Greece.

What types of beers do Greeks enjoy? He describes a traditional preference for Lager and Pils - undeniably perfect for a balmy Greek summer evening - but paints a picture of an almost accidental move hopwards in the last few years. “A minor group of consumers like high hoppy beers but the financial crisis led a lot of people to Greek brands and reduced the consumption of imported beers,” he says. “By this a lot of people who would not dare drink a Greek beer “met” the new Greek beer scene and supported Greek microbreweries.”

“The economic situation and capital controls we are facing, especially last year, is causing the overall reduction of beer consumption.”

But don’t think the continuing difficult economic situation in Greece is helpful - far from it. “The economic situation and capital controls we are facing, especially last year, is causing the overall reduction of beer consumption,” he says. “And the rising prices after the last VAT and alcohol tax, which was increased by the government, is not supporting the growth of the local beer industry either.”

A mixed portrait emerges from Radisis. Traditionally drinkers of Lager and Pils, Greeks are becoming more and more interested in craft beer and a micro-brewery trend is spreading   around the country, further than just Athens. The economic situation on the other hand is still hindering growth. We can’t wait to hear even more from him at the BCB in just a couple of days...

Text: Andrew Wilkin Photo: Nicola Radisis

[brewberlin]

From Craft Beer to Beer Cocktails: Today’s and tomorrow’s beer trends at Brew Berlin 2016

It’s that time of the year again. Brew Berlin is back. In year four. And we’re back with a incredibly strong line-up of breweries, 37 companies in exhibiting in total, and many renowned international beer personalities on stage! Our official press release went out these days. If you’ve missed it, go have a read!

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Brew Berlin is the must-go event for international brewers, beer professionals, bartenders and  restaurateurs/caterers – not only because the renowned representatives of the  industry meet here and present the latest mixtures and most creative trends  in the beer scene. The programme also has quite a few things in store.   

First-class speakers – including John Keeling from Britain’s well-known Fuller’s Brewery and Chris Heaney from London-based brewery start-up Partizan Brewing – cover topics that are fun, convey  information and inspire. For two days the Beer Stage in Hall 3 will serve as  the knowledge hub of Brew Berlin, a separate exhibition area at Bar Convent Berlin, the trade show held from 11 to 12 October at Station Berlin.

A total of 37 exhibitors are presented at Brew Berlin this year. Compared to the previous year exhibition space has doubled; especially the Craft Beer segment has noticeably grown. Exhibitors include both resounding names and newcomers such as Bitburger, Carlsberg, SAB Miller, Schoppe Bräu, Leeds Brewery, Berliner Berg, Ratsherrn  and And Union. Six companies from the USA are represented alongside two  British brewers, Birrificio Indipendente Elav from Italy, Nosawa from Japan, Lehe Brewery from Estonia and various representatives of the German brewing craft.

On show will be both national and international beers, the best beer  cocktails and the most creative craft-beer innovations.Equipment suppliers are also represented in this area, including glass manufacturers Sahm and Nachtmann or chilling equipment professionals Gastro-Cool. Since beer is  playing an ever more important role at Bar Convent, a whole stage will be dedicated to “barley juice” and its varieties for the second time now. 

Beer enjoys “icon status”  in the Brew Berlin programme

The series of lectures offers international know-how for the most part in English but also in bilingual  talks, delivered by genuine beer authorities. The topic on the first day reads “Boom in Beer Gastronomy – Progressive Gastronomy in the Craft Age”. This roundtable will involve Oliver Lemke of Brauerei Lemke, Jeff Maisel of Liebesbier (Maisel & Friends) and Frank Reinwand of Stone Brewing, to name but three panellists. British breweries will also be in focus. John Keeling of Fuller's, Dean Pugh of Brew Dog, Chris Heaney of Partizan Brewing and Sam Smith of Samuel Smith will provide information on “British Breweries”.

In the afternoon, Axel Ohm of And Union & Neue Bierkultur, Sylvia Kopp of the U.S. Brewers Association and Frank Boer of Braukunst Live! will  comment on forecasts, wishful thinking and harsh truths concerning the  question: “Where will German Beer Culture be in 5 Years from Now?” To conclude  the first day of the show while kicking off the second, “The Art of Beer  Cocktails“ will be celebrated where Gabor Nemeth of the famous beer bar Élesztő Budapest and Daniel Bart, the founder of Braufest Berlin and  Főzdefeszt, will share their experiences and best practices with  listeners. 

The programme continues with “International Beer Trends” from 2.00 pm on Wednesday. These will be discussed by speakers from overseas and Europe including Ralf Hugger of Founder's Brewing from the US, Claudia Schröder, the German Brand Ambassador for Brooklyn Brewery, BeerBartender Nicola Radisis from Greece, Chris Heaney of the British Partizan Brewery and Daniel Bart of the Hungarian Főzdefeszt.

And the talks will continue on an international note since a comparison between British and American beer will follow from 4.00 pm. Sylvia Kopp (US  Brewers’ Association) and the well-known beer journalist and author Pete Brown (Hops & Glory, United Kingdom) invite visitors to a “Comparative Beer Tasting: British vs. American Styles”. The programme for beer specialists finally draws to a close on the second day with the Battle of Brews No. 2. Here Lenny’s Artisanal Ales, Lervig Gryggeri, Pirate Brew Berlin, Straßenbräu, and Brlo will compete in a Showbrewing Competition.

About Brew Berlin  

Brew Berlin offers beer manufacturers and distributors direct exchange with restaurateurs/caterers, importers and specialist beverage wholesalers. As a platform for beer in bars, Brew Berlin is the beer segment of Bar Convent Berlin, Europe’s leading  premium bar and beverage trade show. 2011 saw the integration of selected beer brand companies begin. This trade show segment was substantially enhanced with the Brew Berlin brand two years later and this is the fastest growing segment of Bar Convent today. The trade show will be held at Station Berlin from 11 to 12 October 2016 and is expected to attract over 10,000 trade visitors. 

For further information go to: barconvent.com

Photo Credit: Gili Shani