Accidents Happen - Scripps Memorial Hospital, Encinitas, CA
This day started out just like any other day. I woke up spent some time stretching and heated up a bulletproof turmeric latte to warm me up for a dawn surf. A solid 4 - 7 foot swell had rolled through the day before and was still showing it’s power this day. I had been out the day before and although the swell had dropped slightly it was still big and heavy out there. As I walked along the beach to my spot I chuckled at the site of two tents, a couple early risers and food being warmed up over a small fire tucked up against the sea wall. Quite a bold move to camp out illegally on the beach and to have a fire too! Little did I know this groups decision to break the rules would be beneficial to me.Â
Although my session the previous day would not have been called stellar, this mornings session wasn’t shaping out to be that productive. I didn’t realize how sore and tired my arms were from the constant paddling and duck diving the day before until I paddled out.  After an hour of avoiding huge close outs, paddling to stay in position, and sneaking to the inside to try to get a smaller wave my energy began to deteriorate.  I decide to forgo battling with the current and just let it pull me south and surf some spots till I got to the trail head and could go in.  Shortly after the tide began to fill in further and with all the water it was really starting to get hard to get into the waves.  After not getting into a wave that I was hoping was going to be my ride in I decided to paddle harder and give a couple extra strokes on the next wave.  As a wave approached I turned and started paddling hard with every last ounce of energy I had.  It was looking like I could get into it, but after it’s long roll it all of a sudden jacked up really fast, picked me up and threw me over the falls.  I was held under and tossed around for what felt like an eternity.  I fought to get control of my body and search for the surface.  Just as I felt like I could not hold my breath any longer I surfaced gasping for air then SMACK!
The tail of my board smashed into my left cheekbone and my center fin sliced into my upper lip/face.  It was the weirdest feeling ever. I felt it slice me and my skin open wide. I knew this wasn’t good and I was so grateful that I was still somewhat alert. With my cheek throbbing and feeling slightly disorientated I knew I needed to get in ASAP.  I looked towards the shore and saw two lifeguard tucks parked on the beach where the “camp” had been.  Relief instantly washed over me. With blood gushing out of my wound I alternated between paddling hard and waving my arms to get the lifeguards attention.  One of the lifeguards met me at the shore and then I was taking care of by the other lifeguard, Annie.  They said I would for sure need stitches and advised ambulance.  Have you ever taken an ambulance in the States? They’re expensive!  I declined.  After finishing up her assessment and stopping the bleeding Annie drove me to the parking lot, put my bike in the truck and then drove me home! Â
Once I was checked in at the hospital I sent JP a text that said, “I am ok, had a bit of an accident surfing and I am at the hospital.  I might be crying when I call so just want you to know everything is ok I am just bummed.”  JP called immediately and once I told him what happened he was in his car and on the way to the airport to get on a flight to San Diego. I tried to convince him it was no big deal.  The only reason I was upset was because it was my face, he didn’t need to come out.  I knew he had a late afternoon flight the next day to Norway so I didn’t want him to go through any trouble. He wouldn’t hear it, he was on his way!  The first nurse I saw I requested a plastic surgeon to stitch me up. They said it would take longer to see a plastic surgeon,  but that was fine with me. I didn’t mind hanging out to get the best treatment possible. My friend, Natalia came to keep me company until the surgeon arrived. The ER staff had assumed he would stitch me up in the ER but the doctor requested to perform the procedure in an operating room. Sounded good to me. I wanted him to be in the most optimal environment to perform at his best. I met the surgeon, Dr. Wilensky and he explained how exactly he was going to close me up and that he predicted I would have minimal scarring. Natalia was with me till they wheeled me in and JP arrived just as she came out in the waiting room.  Although I told him he didn’t need to come out I have to say it felt really good to see his face when I woke up!Â
Bummer that this happened but I am so grateful to everyone that helped me out! Thank you Encinitas Lifeguards, Scripps Memorial, Dr. Wilensky, and JP for giving me love, positivity, soup, smoothies, and ice cream!  Injuries suck and accidents happen but it’s how you deal with them and how you come back that builds your character. This won’t bring be down, it’s not like I haven’t had stitches in my face before! I’ll be back out there soon!
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