Bow Tie Till I Die

This is a blog about me restoring and working on cars. Def gonna try to make it about my cars Firebird C1500

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Changed the 1992 Chevy C1500 Fuel Lines to AN6 lines.

Def a much needed upgrade

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3 things got done today

At some point some one changed the driver side mirror but they were missing the part that keeps the wind noise out and it rattled when driving so I just bought a new one off rock auto and hopefully fix both those issues and while I was in there put sound material on the driver door

Then I changed the front headlights to have a black base

And I change the rear tail lights to be a smoke color. I think it looks better with all the black on it. 

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Needed to change out the intake gaskets was hearing a rough idle when i first started up the truck

Also needed to change out the alternator was only reading about 8-11 volts coming off of it.

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MY BAD I DIDNT EVEN FULLY SHOW YALL THE NEW ADDITION TO THE FLEET

LS POWERED GEN 4

2010 CHEVY TAHOE LT

Black on Black

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I know it’s not much but changing them lug nuts out for actually gloss black ones was def worth the $20 and 15 mins

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White Lighting was looking good this day

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I thought this shit was fire

[coloursteelsexappeal]

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2 LS 6.0

And that mf be floating at 80 MPH now

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Got the full radio system down

Sundown 10in

Dual double din

c12 speakers all around

Not super top quality but it def sounds great that’s for sure

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Went ahead and did the other Upper control arm.

I will not be doing that lower control arm until i must be done.

Now i need to work on the rear shocks and shackles

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Had to do the whole front end suspension kit

Then got the wheel alignment.

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I was have a few of the injectors leaking when warm causing and extended start so.

Got an intake with all the parts for $100

Took the injectors out and got them rebuilt.

Them took those injectors and replaced mine.

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I’m a make a very long story short

The original AC Delco I do believe it was having an issue. The new one I got was a walker, not the AC Delco and I think that was the problem when It went to start the car cold or warm the car would build compression before it even started, but it would start (extended)

I went and got a used one for $15 from LKQ AC Delco.

I made sure it was the part number.

Started cold started great took it to the gas station got gas went inside. Talk to a man so I was there for probably about 10 minutes started again and started right up no problem at all.

Long story short it’s not the Cam position so I am going to be checking fuel next to make sure there is not a leaky injector.

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When the engine gets warm, I’ve had an extended start issue. The truck always starts, but it might take a little extra 5or 6 seconds to start versus when the truck is cold. It starts immediately. I barely as soon as I turn the ignition trucks.

At first, I thought it was the starter wires because when I first wired it, I thought the wires got a little too close to the exhaust. Melt a little. I thought it was heat soaking those wires, which was causing it to happen. I did everything I could to eliminate the heat soak in the starter. I repaired the wireto the starter. wrapped the starter.

My uncle thought it could be the camp center. I thought it was the crack sensor. Both are not showing any issues but I’m thinking I was a crank problem at the crank sensor. He’s like I’ve seen it be the cam sensor cause the Cam isn’t technically needed for the engine to start it for the engine to run but it’s not needed for the engine to start I said OK so I got a Kim sensorreplaced the cam sensor put in replacing the cam sensor. I messed up the brake booster check valve that’s pictured. I’m putting a new brake booster check valve. You can hear how it runs with the brake booster check valve, broken, and there being a vacuum leak in the engine.