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LFW: Dioralop SS15

Andreja Bistricic and Maja Merlic are the creative duo behind Dioralop. The Croatian pair are known for producing edgy ready-to-wear fashion that has an architectural identity. Every collection is inspired by the chemical spills that occur when Polaroid photographs are exposed to varying temperatures.

Backstage, Bistricic and Merlic took a hands-on approach to styling the show, personally dressing and fitting the models in various hyper-linear printed garments.

The Glasgow School of Art produced the digital prints used throughout the collections. Sitting front row for the final day of London Fashion Week with this piece of information embedded into my mind, the collection had already spiked my interests on an emotional level even before the first model had appeared on the catwalk. Having spent the last four year living and studying in Glasgow – the city is close to my heart. I was eager to see how Dioralop would feature the city’s creativity within their show. Utilizing the cultural and artistic Glaswegian edge ensured that Dioralop SS15 had a dishevelled yet refined beauty to it.

By carving garments in monochrome, the overall aesthetic emphasizes the interplay of pattern and structure, fusing together the inspired themes of traditional tattoo culture with the skinhead subculture of the 1960s. The collection showcased textured oversized jackets and tunic dresses with cut-outs and separation in the fabrics in varying materials.

Hair replicated the decorative pattern of the garments; with the models’ hair scrunched and crumbled into a kind of bird’s nest. The stylists used a combination of texture and shine, so that even though the model’s hair was messy, it had a wet-look shine.

Dioralop has a creative vision that merges organic softness with material strength.

#lfw ss15 #dioralop #fashion #backstage #catwalk

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LFW: Bernard Chandran SS15

Ambient techno echoed through the Freesmason’s Hall as the Bernard Chandran show started at London Fashion Week SS15. As the first model stormed down the runway, a hip-hop beat took over from the ethereal notes. The soundtrack seemed particularly fitting, as Chandran’s latest collection merged classic tailoring with edgy brilliance.

The collection opened with several all-white ensembles that showcased clean lines intermingled with somewhat masculine structures. By deliberately selecting an all white colour palette, Bernard Chandran showcased his incredible talent for creating design with innovative detailing.

Texture played a vital role in the collection; and feminine touches were added to the monochrome garments in the form of folded material bust detailing. This gathered embellishment remained a continuous feature throughout.

The possible variation of one specific material was emphasized by patterning; pinky nude leather featured a mesh cut out design and sheer stripe details were created for dresses through the use of cotton and silk. Movement was a continuous theme within the collection and the white sheer dress with a vertical draped panel had dynamic silhouette.

As the show continued, vibrant colours of orange and yellow saturated the collection. Contrast was created through the use of black sequins arranged in a various linear patterns, as if to ensure that the looser fit of some look still had a defined characteristic.

The designer also experimented with the aesthetic weight of various materials; light organza gowns had a delicate silk structured panelled front. And the final looks of the collection presented cropped, collarless shirts and streamlined trousers in printed silks.

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#lfw ss15 #fashion #bernard chandran #whosjacklondon #catwalk #womenswear

LFW Eudon Choi SS15

Eudon Choi’s background in Menswear was a prominent feature throughout his London Fashion Week SS15 collection. Combining elegant lines with soft edge forms, Abiquiú is a homage to the beauty and power of simplicity.

Androgynous oversized suiting and trench coat tailoring stole the show this season. Men’s shirts were reimagined to become off-the-shoulder pieces with a feminine charm.

These masculine cuts avoided drowning the female form as the clean tailoring was interspersed with floral printing, ensuring an striking aesthetic within each look due to the contrast of soft black with variations of colourful blossom decoration.

Dresses in powder pink and blue featured slouched shoulders and fluid soft drapery that contrasted with the stiffer, more masculine elements of the collection. Ranch life also seems to have influenced the designer and some pieces evoked a country-western vibe.

The collection was inspired by the work of Georgia O’Keefe, and showcases the pairing down of essential shapes. As O’Keefe said ‘Nothing is less real than realism. It is only by selection, by elimination, by emphasis, that we get the real meaning of things.’

This philosophy is well reflected within the collection, and many pieces featured asymmetric hemlines, deep V-lines necklines, dropped waists and large rectangular pockets, decorated in crochet detailing which added a pretty touch to the relatively loose fit.

The result is a collection that interprets natural forms and combines them with the designer’s creative strengths.

#fashion #lfw ss15 #ss15 #eudon choi #whosjacklondon #catwalk

LFW: Bora Aksu SS15

Soft dreamy music filled the tent as delicate yet playful white lace dresses opened the show. Bora Aksu’s London Fashion Week SS15 collection explores the designer’s fascination with fairy tales.

The opening ensembles set a tone of poetic romance, initially featuring feather-light, sheer cropped jackets that floated down the runway on the shoulders of innocent faced models.Fresh make up and knotted side-ponytails complimented the refined lines of the garments that pay tribute to innocent virtues of grace and elegance set within a dream-like atmosphere.

The designer played around with the tactile qualities of materials throughout, and his use of silk and organza instils a fluid ethereal quality to the each look. As the opening colour palette focused on soft tones of white and blue mixed with nudes, it soon faded into darker more turbulent shades of blue and black.

The daintiness of the collection is balanced by the weight of other woven materials. An emphasis on texture was evident from the start and the use of crochet gave each look a romantic feminine form regardless of colour.Throughout the hand-made embroideries and crochets appear as a dragon fly motif repeated across skirt and dresses alike, adding to the whimsical romantic air.

Bora Aksu is known for incorporating more sinister elements into his designs, as the show progressed the embroidered lace took on a gothic aesthetic quality. Silhouettes changed as the music grew duskier and soft lines transformed into angular silhouettes.

Bora Aksu eyewear designed by TD Tom Davies made its debut, which was also highly decorative.

Words: Hope Calnan @hopecalnan Instagram

#bora aksu #lfw ss15 #fashion #ss15 #catwalk

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