I can't think about anything other than the batfam rn, enter at your own risk.
also follow my cosplay instagram I guess: https://www.instagram.com/cosmic_aku/
it really is crazy that women's clothes don't fit anybody. fat women can't find clothes, skinny women can't find clothes, tall women can't find clothes, short women can't find clothes, big chested women can't find clothes, small chested women can't find clothes. who the fuck are these being made for
Crawls out from the depths to sprinkle you with my contribution to the 2026 @promptisgiftexchange ! I had the honor of creating a gift for the wonderful Salamandersocks! It was so much fun to play with the prompts, I settled with “post-dawn domestic bliss” and fell back into my jam of making these two dorks happy. Come and join us next year and maybe I can draw one for you too!
Here is the link to the whole collection this year!
Hello! I recently went through and re-made the staff I use for my Tim Drake Robin cosplay, and a friend of mine was interested in making one for a Marvel character, and since I was going to be making a walk-through for her, I figured I might as well type up something official and post it!
Here’s what the original looks like, it is PVC cemented together and therefore cannot come apart, but it fits in the backseat of my car (Kia Forte) if it is tucked under one seat and diagonally laid across the back.
I was remaking it so I could collapse it and travel with it in a suitcase (Canada con for the win) so this one will actually break down into three pieces at the middle joints.
(There is minimal difference between the collapsible version and the non-collapsible version, but I can explain the differences if someone prefers the look and feel of my original! Places where things would be different will be notated with **)
My original plan was to make it collapsible, however it was my first time making it and I ended up deciding against pushing my skills in crafting AND finding all of my needed materials at the hardware store.Â
The second time around was quicker and smoother, as well as a bit better executed, if I do say so myself!
Now without further ado, let's get into it!
You will need:
(1) 1/2in PVC Pipe, of at least 5 feet in length
(1) PVC Cement (I use Blue Monster, as it doesn’t need a primer)
(2-4**) 1/2in compatible PVC Couplings (I use electric PVC couplings that have a male and female adaptor, to make it able to come apart. You can use standard PVC couplings for a look more like my original staff**)
(2) 1/2in compatible PVC caps
(2 packs of 6) Sanding Sheets (180 and 220 grit for best results)
(1) PVC Cutters (unless your hardware store will measure and cut your PVC for you… mine would not)
Spray paint in your desired colors and a seal
(1) Roll of Masking Tape
Gloves for spray painting
Tape measure
Marker
A well ventilated crafting area
Tarp (to protect said ventilated crafting area)
About 6 days to complete the project before it is con/photoshoot/prop usage ready
How to make it:
First up you are going to have to cut the PVC pipe to size, into three pieces. This will make it easier to handle for the second step, which is sanding. But, if you prefer to sand one long piece you can swap these first two steps!
I am 5’3”, so I made my staff about that height for the best look for photos, as I wanted the staff to be a focal point in multiple photos. The following measurements make the staff about 5'2"
The middle piece, painted red, is 18in long.
The two end pieces, painted green and black, are 21in long each.
This is the first place the measuring tape comes into play, I measure and mark off the PVC with a sharpie, then cut using the PVC cutters.
If the cuts are not perfect, that's okay! The ends will be covered by PVC caps and couplings!
Next up is to sand each of the PVC pieces! As you can see, my PVC pipe had all of the informational writing on it. I sand all of that off to make the best blank canvas I can.
This is where you will want a well ventilated area and to wear a face covering. The sanded PVC dust is not good for your lungs!
Start with 180 grit sandpaper, I was able to do about one and a half of the long pieces on one sheet, but honestly as soon as it starts looking decrepit I switch my sheet, so it could probably be done with less!
I used one sheet on the small couplings and cap pieces, the main thing I am doing to these pieces is sanding off remnants of the price stockers (for the couplings) and sanding off the 3D writing (on the caps)
Once all of the writing has been sanded off with the 180 grit, I move onto the 220 grit to make sure I have as smooth a canvas as possible for the spray paint.
I used one sheet of the 220 grit on everything, as it was just a touch up really.Â
Rinse off and pat dry your sanded PVC.
This will help the spray paint stick better and have a smooth finish!
If you have the patience to let them air dry, that is for the best.
This is a good place to pause if you plan on doing anything else in the midst of this project, as the next step is prep for the spray paint!
Prep your PVC pieces for spray paint.
Start by putting the male adaptors** on both ends of the 18in piece of PVC, and mark the bottom of it with a sharpie.
The place where the adaptors sit will be taped off, as this will be a few less layers to contend with when we have to PVC cement them.
Put the PVC caps on one end of each of the 21in pieces of PVC, and mark where it ends with a sharpie.
This will also be taped off for the same reason!
Put the female adapters** on the opposite ends of the 21in pieces of PVC and mark off.
Again, will be taped off.
Tape off the screw ends of the male adaptors**, to avoid caking up the connection with spray paint that won’t be seen,
I specifically put the female adapters** on the end pieces, rather than the middle pieces, because they look more complete. This means I could use the two ends as escrima sticks if I ever wanted to use them for Dick Grayson’s Robin.
Now, if you are only doing one color for the end pieces you can tape the ends off and begin spray painting. I use two colors for my end pieces so there is an extra measuring and taping step!
Measure and tape off the amount of PVC you’d like to be a different color.
Measure 11.5in from the end labeled cap on the 21in pieces, mark off with a sharpie.
These will be the black portions of my staff.
Tape off from below the sharpie line.
I start with a piece wrapped horizontally along the line where the color will change, then use two vertical pieces to cover the space between the piece of tape and the bottom. This makes for a cleaner line between your colors.
Spray paint your pieces according to the instructions on your can.
This is where you will use the gloves (I used three pairs as I was taking them off to take photos between colors)
The brand of spray paint I used had all of the directions listed on the back.
This included dry times, (20min for touch dry, 1hr for dry enough to handle, 48hrs for dry enough for a seal coat)
This also included best practices for using the can, (spray with the bottle upright and between, 12-18in from what you’re painting, slow side-to-side sprays that slightly overlap)
Spray paint the caps, female adapters, and male adaptors in yellow
Spray paint the 18in with the red
Spray paint the un-taped half of the 21in pieces in green
Let dry according to your paint instructions.
I set an alarm for an hour, and then waited an additional little bit. My paint can instructions specified temperature and humidity percentage, I was doing this in the middle of a Florida summer so I knew my humidity was higher than recommended so I left it a bit of extra time.
Since it was so hot and humid when I was doing this, I moved my pieces inside to dry the rest of the way, so I could track the humidity percentage and temperature while they were drying to ensure that 48hrs would be accurate and they would be sufficiently dry before I used the seal.
Wait 48hrs (or however long your spray paint instructs) to dry
This is where I stopped on my first night of making this staff. This took place on Tuesday.
I listened to two episodes of my preferred podcast, so I assume it took me about 2 hours, give or take.
Spray paint second coats and/or seal
My red piece was accidentally dropped while it was drying, so I did a second coat to get it looking even. If it hadn’t been dropped it would have been time to seal it!
The yellow pieces needed a second coat to cover up the grey underneath and ensure even coloring throughout, so they got a second coat.
If you’re only doing one color on the longer pieces this is also where you would do a second coat or a seal!
Spray paint the second color.
Since I am doing partially green and partially black on the longer pieces, this is where I peel off the tape section off the second half and cover the already painted portion.
Gently peel the taped off sections, excluding the portion taped off to cover where the cap will go.
Carefully tape over the green portion, following the same method used previously, ensure it is ALL covered, as the black will cover any green still visible
Spray paint and let dry, as you did with the previous pieces
Wait 48hrs (or however long your spray paint instructs) to dry (again)
If your seal has different instructions follow those carefully, as this is the protective layer that will prevent the staff from weathering quickly.
This took place on Thursday!
I got through about half an episode of my podcast, for an estimated 30 minutes!
Seal and/or peel off protective tape and wait for all pieces to be ready!
It was at this point that my red piece could have been fully ready to go, but nothing else would have been. Since mine needed an extra coat, it just got sealed with everything else!
But if your middle piece is good after one coat, you could just peel off the tape and leave it to chill until everything else is ready!
The yellow pieces were sufficiently covered after two coats, so they got the seal on them at this point.
The black and green pieces were now ready for seal, so I peeled the protective paint off the green half and closely inspected it to make sure the tape didn’t take anything with it!Â
It didn't, which is in part because of letting it dry fully before doing anything with it, but mostly because of the sanding to prep.
I ended up retaping the ends where the caps and couplings will go because they wanted to come off with the other tape, and it was easier to just retape it entirely rather than trying to preserve the tape there.
Then I sealed the green and black pieces the same way I did with the other pieces.
Wait 48hrs (or however long your seal instructs) to dry (yes, again)
Once this is done I took my time looking at each piece up close, making sure there wasn’t anything I needed to touch up,
The first time I made my staff I didn’t seal it, so the caps have started losing color (from where I rest it on the ground) and during this portion I ended up doing a second coat of the yellow, which I hadn’t planned to do.
The second time around it was all fine and dandy so I moved on!
This took place on Saturday!
All in all it only took about 20 minutes to do, with set up, peeling tape, and leaving to dry for an hour before I could handle them.
Peel off all the protective tape and prep for PVC cement
This is a quick step, you just need to have all of your items ready to go so the PVC cement doesn’t have to stay open longer than it needs to.
I also took the chance to wipe down the areas that were previously taped to make sure no adhesive residue remained!
[IT IS AT THIS POINT THAT I AM NO LONGER ALLOWED PHOTOS- I WILL ADD MORE IN A FOLLOW UP POST SO SORRY]
PVC cement all of the relevant pieces together!
I use Blue Monster PVC cement as it doesn’t need a primer for best results, which means one less step! I originally used a PVC cement that needed a primer, but without the primer, and didn’t see any issues, so it is up to your discretion here.
If you are using something other than Blue Monster PVC Cement, please refer to the instructions of the product you are using to ensure proper procedure!
You have to move a bit quickly with this, pieces connecting within about 30 seconds, so ensure all of your prep is done and you are ready to work!
You will also want to do this outdoors and/or in a well ventilated area with a face covering, as the fumes will be a bit much!
I start with the caps, as there is less risk with them because they are only connected to one end and don’t have threads I need to be mindful of. It gets you used to the process before you have the chance to make a mistake that would require restarting some or all of the project.
Without any cement, make sure the pieces all go on easily.
With the cement brush on a layer of PVC cement on both the outer layer of the pipe and the inner layer of the cap. Immediately place the cap on the end of the pipe and give it about a quarter turn before holding it in place for at least 30 seconds so it can set.
Allow at least 4 minutes of drying time before handling. This is another reason I start with the caps. I can do one cap, then the other, followed by one of the male adapters** on the center piece before making my way back to the first piece I cemented, once it has had time to dry.
After about 4hrs the PVC cement is dried with good strength, and after 24hrs it is fully dry.
Because of this I’d say give it at least 4 hours before taking it to a convention and at least 24 before packing it in a suitcase or anything like that.
Repeat the cementing process in (about) the following order:
One cap on an end piece (against the black)
The other cap on the other end piece (also against the black)
One male adaptor** on the middle piece, either side
If four minutes have passed, the female adaptor** on the first piece
The female adapter** on the second piece
The second male adapter** on the middle piece
This took place on Monday!
Let the PVC cement dry!
I was crafting after work, so I almost ended up giving it overnight to dry, but the package instructions do say that after 4 hours they should be good to go!
One week later and I have a collapsible bo staff for my Tim Drake cosplay!Â
When making my first one I shook it around, spun it in my fingers and hands, gently tugged on it, and did a few other small tests to ensure it wouldn’t come apart in the middle of a con day, so I did much of the same with this one!
This one I also made sure that the screw connectors felt good, but at the same time easy to take apart!
Much to my chagrin I either have to nearly over tighten or leave them slightly loose to get the raised bumps to line up one the connectors- I’ll just have to tighten them for photos!Â
And a week later brings me to Tuesday again, though, Monday night was when I was comfortable trying out the assembling!
**Denotes steps that would be different if you were making a non-collapsible staff!
Congratulations! Now you can make your own staff prop! I used this method for a staff for Tim Drake, but the colors and measurements can be adjusted for your character and specific height. Again, I’m 5’3” so the staff is about my height before I put on the boots I wear as Robin, this is to give the otherwise thin and unassuming prop some presence in photos or at conventions.
I'd recommend scaling up or down all of the pieces if you want to make the staff a different length, as the overall silhouette would stay the same. I also measured my grip width in the middle portion of the staff to see how far apart I could comfortably rest my hands and based the center piece length off of that.Â
You can also skip around and follow the steps for the two outer pieces to achieve an escrima stick set! If you don't like the idea of the empty adapters you can put caps on the ends or even PVC cement the full set of adapters together- the options are limitless!
Stay tuned, as my next project might be figuring out some kind of holster for this that can go under my cape to free up my hands at a convention!
Also fair warning: if you have a Kon or Bart cosplayer with you they Will want to hold the staff. You have been warned.
Adding more photos on here because Tumbr hates me and I ran out of space:
There are the rest of the steps, plus a comparison of what my original staff looks like compared to my new one! Please please hit me up if you have questions- I have these photos in order on my phone (86 of them!!!) and would love to help someone make their very own staff!!
Hello! I recently went through and re-made the staff I use for my Tim Drake Robin cosplay, and a friend of mine was interested in making one for a Marvel character, and since I was going to be making a walk-through for her, I figured I might as well type up something official and post it!
Here’s what the original looks like, it is PVC cemented together and therefore cannot come apart, but it fits in the backseat of my car (Kia Forte) if it is tucked under one seat and diagonally laid across the back.
I was remaking it so I could collapse it and travel with it in a suitcase (Canada con for the win) so this one will actually break down into three pieces at the middle joints.
(There is minimal difference between the collapsible version and the non-collapsible version, but I can explain the differences if someone prefers the look and feel of my original! Places where things would be different will be notated with **)
My original plan was to make it collapsible, however it was my first time making it and I ended up deciding against pushing my skills in crafting AND finding all of my needed materials at the hardware store.Â
The second time around was quicker and smoother, as well as a bit better executed, if I do say so myself!
Now without further ado, let's get into it!
You will need:
(1) 1/2in PVC Pipe, of at least 5 feet in length
(1) PVC Cement (I use Blue Monster, as it doesn’t need a primer)
(2-4**) 1/2in compatible PVC Couplings (I use electric PVC couplings that have a male and female adaptor, to make it able to come apart. You can use standard PVC couplings for a look more like my original staff**)
(2) 1/2in compatible PVC caps
(2 packs of 6) Sanding Sheets (180 and 220 grit for best results)
(1) PVC Cutters (unless your hardware store will measure and cut your PVC for you… mine would not)
Spray paint in your desired colors and a seal
(1) Roll of Masking Tape
Gloves for spray painting
Tape measure
Marker
A well ventilated crafting area
Tarp (to protect said ventilated crafting area)
About 6 days to complete the project before it is con/photoshoot/prop usage ready
How to make it:
First up you are going to have to cut the PVC pipe to size, into three pieces. This will make it easier to handle for the second step, which is sanding. But, if you prefer to sand one long piece you can swap these first two steps!
I am 5’3”, so I made my staff about that height for the best look for photos, as I wanted the staff to be a focal point in multiple photos. The following measurements make the staff about 5'2"
The middle piece, painted red, is 18in long.
The two end pieces, painted green and black, are 21in long each.
This is the first place the measuring tape comes into play, I measure and mark off the PVC with a sharpie, then cut using the PVC cutters.
If the cuts are not perfect, that's okay! The ends will be covered by PVC caps and couplings!
Next up is to sand each of the PVC pieces! As you can see, my PVC pipe had all of the informational writing on it. I sand all of that off to make the best blank canvas I can.
This is where you will want a well ventilated area and to wear a face covering. The sanded PVC dust is not good for your lungs!
Start with 180 grit sandpaper, I was able to do about one and a half of the long pieces on one sheet, but honestly as soon as it starts looking decrepit I switch my sheet, so it could probably be done with less!
I used one sheet on the small couplings and cap pieces, the main thing I am doing to these pieces is sanding off remnants of the price stockers (for the couplings) and sanding off the 3D writing (on the caps)
Once all of the writing has been sanded off with the 180 grit, I move onto the 220 grit to make sure I have as smooth a canvas as possible for the spray paint.
I used one sheet of the 220 grit on everything, as it was just a touch up really.Â
Rinse off and pat dry your sanded PVC.
This will help the spray paint stick better and have a smooth finish!
If you have the patience to let them air dry, that is for the best.
This is a good place to pause if you plan on doing anything else in the midst of this project, as the next step is prep for the spray paint!
Prep your PVC pieces for spray paint.
Start by putting the male adaptors** on both ends of the 18in piece of PVC, and mark the bottom of it with a sharpie.
The place where the adaptors sit will be taped off, as this will be a few less layers to contend with when we have to PVC cement them.
Put the PVC caps on one end of each of the 21in pieces of PVC, and mark where it ends with a sharpie.
This will also be taped off for the same reason!
Put the female adapters** on the opposite ends of the 21in pieces of PVC and mark off.
Again, will be taped off.
Tape off the screw ends of the male adaptors**, to avoid caking up the connection with spray paint that won’t be seen,
I specifically put the female adapters** on the end pieces, rather than the middle pieces, because they look more complete. This means I could use the two ends as escrima sticks if I ever wanted to use them for Dick Grayson’s Robin.
Now, if you are only doing one color for the end pieces you can tape the ends off and begin spray painting. I use two colors for my end pieces so there is an extra measuring and taping step!
Measure and tape off the amount of PVC you’d like to be a different color.
Measure 11.5in from the end labeled cap on the 21in pieces, mark off with a sharpie.
These will be the black portions of my staff.
Tape off from below the sharpie line.
I start with a piece wrapped horizontally along the line where the color will change, then use two vertical pieces to cover the space between the piece of tape and the bottom. This makes for a cleaner line between your colors.
Spray paint your pieces according to the instructions on your can.
This is where you will use the gloves (I used three pairs as I was taking them off to take photos between colors)
The brand of spray paint I used had all of the directions listed on the back.
This included dry times, (20min for touch dry, 1hr for dry enough to handle, 48hrs for dry enough for a seal coat)
This also included best practices for using the can, (spray with the bottle upright and between, 12-18in from what you’re painting, slow side-to-side sprays that slightly overlap)
Spray paint the caps, female adapters, and male adaptors in yellow
Spray paint the 18in with the red
Spray paint the un-taped half of the 21in pieces in green
Let dry according to your paint instructions.
I set an alarm for an hour, and then waited an additional little bit. My paint can instructions specified temperature and humidity percentage, I was doing this in the middle of a Florida summer so I knew my humidity was higher than recommended so I left it a bit of extra time.
Since it was so hot and humid when I was doing this, I moved my pieces inside to dry the rest of the way, so I could track the humidity percentage and temperature while they were drying to ensure that 48hrs would be accurate and they would be sufficiently dry before I used the seal.
Wait 48hrs (or however long your spray paint instructs) to dry
This is where I stopped on my first night of making this staff. This took place on Tuesday.
I listened to two episodes of my preferred podcast, so I assume it took me about 2 hours, give or take.
Spray paint second coats and/or seal
My red piece was accidentally dropped while it was drying, so I did a second coat to get it looking even. If it hadn’t been dropped it would have been time to seal it!
The yellow pieces needed a second coat to cover up the grey underneath and ensure even coloring throughout, so they got a second coat.
If you’re only doing one color on the longer pieces this is also where you would do a second coat or a seal!
Spray paint the second color.
Since I am doing partially green and partially black on the longer pieces, this is where I peel off the tape section off the second half and cover the already painted portion.
Gently peel the taped off sections, excluding the portion taped off to cover where the cap will go.
Carefully tape over the green portion, following the same method used previously, ensure it is ALL covered, as the black will cover any green still visible
Spray paint and let dry, as you did with the previous pieces
Wait 48hrs (or however long your spray paint instructs) to dry (again)
If your seal has different instructions follow those carefully, as this is the protective layer that will prevent the staff from weathering quickly.
This took place on Thursday!
I got through about half an episode of my podcast, for an estimated 30 minutes!
Seal and/or peel off protective tape and wait for all pieces to be ready!
It was at this point that my red piece could have been fully ready to go, but nothing else would have been. Since mine needed an extra coat, it just got sealed with everything else!
But if your middle piece is good after one coat, you could just peel off the tape and leave it to chill until everything else is ready!
The yellow pieces were sufficiently covered after two coats, so they got the seal on them at this point.
The black and green pieces were now ready for seal, so I peeled the protective paint off the green half and closely inspected it to make sure the tape didn’t take anything with it!Â
It didn't, which is in part because of letting it dry fully before doing anything with it, but mostly because of the sanding to prep.
I ended up retaping the ends where the caps and couplings will go because they wanted to come off with the other tape, and it was easier to just retape it entirely rather than trying to preserve the tape there.
Then I sealed the green and black pieces the same way I did with the other pieces.
Wait 48hrs (or however long your seal instructs) to dry (yes, again)
Once this is done I took my time looking at each piece up close, making sure there wasn’t anything I needed to touch up,
The first time I made my staff I didn’t seal it, so the caps have started losing color (from where I rest it on the ground) and during this portion I ended up doing a second coat of the yellow, which I hadn’t planned to do.
The second time around it was all fine and dandy so I moved on!
This took place on Saturday!
All in all it only took about 20 minutes to do, with set up, peeling tape, and leaving to dry for an hour before I could handle them.
Peel off all the protective tape and prep for PVC cement
This is a quick step, you just need to have all of your items ready to go so the PVC cement doesn’t have to stay open longer than it needs to.
I also took the chance to wipe down the areas that were previously taped to make sure no adhesive residue remained!
[IT IS AT THIS POINT THAT I AM NO LONGER ALLOWED PHOTOS- I WILL ADD MORE IN A FOLLOW UP POST SO SORRY]
PVC cement all of the relevant pieces together!
I use Blue Monster PVC cement as it doesn’t need a primer for best results, which means one less step! I originally used a PVC cement that needed a primer, but without the primer, and didn’t see any issues, so it is up to your discretion here.
If you are using something other than Blue Monster PVC Cement, please refer to the instructions of the product you are using to ensure proper procedure!
You have to move a bit quickly with this, pieces connecting within about 30 seconds, so ensure all of your prep is done and you are ready to work!
You will also want to do this outdoors and/or in a well ventilated area with a face covering, as the fumes will be a bit much!
I start with the caps, as there is less risk with them because they are only connected to one end and don’t have threads I need to be mindful of. It gets you used to the process before you have the chance to make a mistake that would require restarting some or all of the project.
Without any cement, make sure the pieces all go on easily.
With the cement brush on a layer of PVC cement on both the outer layer of the pipe and the inner layer of the cap. Immediately place the cap on the end of the pipe and give it about a quarter turn before holding it in place for at least 30 seconds so it can set.
Allow at least 4 minutes of drying time before handling. This is another reason I start with the caps. I can do one cap, then the other, followed by one of the male adapters** on the center piece before making my way back to the first piece I cemented, once it has had time to dry.
After about 4hrs the PVC cement is dried with good strength, and after 24hrs it is fully dry.
Because of this I’d say give it at least 4 hours before taking it to a convention and at least 24 before packing it in a suitcase or anything like that.
Repeat the cementing process in (about) the following order:
One cap on an end piece (against the black)
The other cap on the other end piece (also against the black)
One male adaptor** on the middle piece, either side
If four minutes have passed, the female adaptor** on the first piece
The female adapter** on the second piece
The second male adapter** on the middle piece
This took place on Monday!
Let the PVC cement dry!
I was crafting after work, so I almost ended up giving it overnight to dry, but the package instructions do say that after 4 hours they should be good to go!
One week later and I have a collapsible bo staff for my Tim Drake cosplay!Â
When making my first one I shook it around, spun it in my fingers and hands, gently tugged on it, and did a few other small tests to ensure it wouldn’t come apart in the middle of a con day, so I did much of the same with this one!
This one I also made sure that the screw connectors felt good, but at the same time easy to take apart!
Much to my chagrin I either have to nearly over tighten or leave them slightly loose to get the raised bumps to line up one the connectors- I’ll just have to tighten them for photos!Â
And a week later brings me to Tuesday again, though, Monday night was when I was comfortable trying out the assembling!
**Denotes steps that would be different if you were making a non-collapsible staff!
Congratulations! Now you can make your own staff prop! I used this method for a staff for Tim Drake, but the colors and measurements can be adjusted for your character and specific height. Again, I’m 5’3” so the staff is about my height before I put on the boots I wear as Robin, this is to give the otherwise thin and unassuming prop some presence in photos or at conventions.
I'd recommend scaling up or down all of the pieces if you want to make the staff a different length, as the overall silhouette would stay the same. I also measured my grip width in the middle portion of the staff to see how far apart I could comfortably rest my hands and based the center piece length off of that.Â
You can also skip around and follow the steps for the two outer pieces to achieve an escrima stick set! If you don't like the idea of the empty adapters you can put caps on the ends or even PVC cement the full set of adapters together- the options are limitless!
Stay tuned, as my next project might be figuring out some kind of holster for this that can go under my cape to free up my hands at a convention!
Also fair warning: if you have a Kon or Bart cosplayer with you they Will want to hold the staff. You have been warned.
that ”it’s cute that you think you can defeat me with the power of friendship and all but i am the devil from the bible” audio but it’s yj98 and it clips to them standing victorious holding hands and grinning
A HANDY CHART FOR THOSE OF YOU WONDERING WHAT THE FUCK IS UP WITH THESE. NOTE THAT THESE ARE ALL THE INFORMAL AND YOU IS THE FORMAL SO LIKE YOU WOULD ALWAYS ADDRESS YOUR SUPERIOR/ OLDER PERSON/ SOCIAL BETTER WITH YOU BUT WITH YOUR BUDS YOU CAN USE THESE.Â
I have received all manner of threat, up to and beyond “I will play a flute carved from your femur,” and yet this is the first time I’ve felt truly threatened
the most disorienting thing thats ever happened to me was when a linguistics major stopped in the middle of our conversation, looked me in the eye, and said, "you have a very interesting vernacular. were you on tumblr in 2014?" and i had to just stand there and process that one for a good ten seconds
#i was in a car with a linguist i had never met before the car trip and like half an hour in he looked at me#after i finished describing a geology thing that was happening out the window and asked if i'd ever spent much time on tumblr#the fuckor of it all#and then we spent six more hours driving#it sure does leave linguistic markers! i'm not sure i'm good with it (tags via @thoughtsformtheuniverse)
Oh! @meret118 see above comment! The use of the word "enjoyers" instead of "users" or "bloggers" -> You left a comment a while back asking, "Does this just mean vocabulary words? Other than blorbo and sweet cinnamon roll etc, I can't think of what a Tumblr accent would be." I almost never see anyone use the word "enjoyer" anywhere outside of tumblr, but I see it on tumblr fairly frequently.
Another one is the verb "perceive" i.e. "don't perceive me" "I am perceiving" "I am being percieved." That's something that feels very specific to tumblr parlance.
There's the thing where people on tumblr have an emotional reaction to something and instead of, or in addition to telling you how they feel about it using emotion words, they will narrate a fictional action in the present progressive tense. "I am gnawing at the bars of my enclosure "I am kissing you on the mouth" "you are going into the soup" "you are getting all of the awards"
I once saw someone use that response format in ... I think it was a restaurant review, or a doordash review, or something like that. It was very unexpected seeing it outside of a tumblr post.
There are a lot of other tumblr linguistic quirks I can't currently remember off the top of my head, but I'll instantly recognize them if I see/hear them outside of tumblr. It's always a bit startling to see them out of context.
when I was in university one of my modules was about internet slang and for our grades project we had to compile and analyse a small database of 100 words used by a specific community of our choice. I chose tumblr and that's how I stumbled across Gretchen McCulloch's research and discovered that yes not only did tumblr have its own vernacular and syntax (as @lierdumoa demonstrates), it was at the time a crucible of slang and memes probably unrivalled by any other part of the internet. and it's stayed that way! even the very title is McCulloch's book because internet is an example of this specific phraseology.
sadly my project is lost due to the website being wiped from the university database after graduation and my then laptop having a major hardware failure. backup your backups people! but the crux of the entire module was that the internet is full of communities using language not only as jargon for specific purpose but also to signal membership in said community. I even wrote a bit about non capitalisation and punctuation useage as a visual cue on tumblr and how including information in the reblog body or the tags indicated different levels of importance or intimacy of thought
I am holding the side of your face and looking deep in your eyes and telling you that love is stored in the syntax, and that we are rotating words together all at once as we all nod at their new and baffling meanings. if the devils sacrament be tumblr then the devils gospel is our collective voice. thanks for coming to my tedtalk
Yet another new study debunked the basis for the anti-trans sports bans. It was never about sports but for creating legal avenues for exclusion and abjection. This is one of the largest analyses ever conducted, involving 52 studies and 6,485 trans people. Read the study here.
germansingergirl
jacobvanloon
pixelskylines
