One Girl, Big World

The tale of a girl who called unknown places her home.

[delaneydanger]

Peru, South America

I have to be honest with you all: Peru was an opportunistic trip rather than a bucket list item for me. When I found a cheap flight to South America, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. But when I arrived, I quickly became enamored with this country, its culture and sacred mountains. I spent the first part of my trip in the mountain town of Huaraz, nestled high above the sea at the base of the Cordillera Blanca. From the town itself, I caught glimpses of the surrounding glaciers and Mount Huascaran. I spent a week hiking and backpacking in Huascaran National Park, meeting an incredible Swiss couple to do the Santa Cruz trek with. I climbed higher than I’ve ever gone before and caught glimpses of heaven with each difficult summit. I quickly came to crave the mountain views and spent the rest of my trip seeking refuge in the sacred mountains of Peru.

The wind seems to sweep down the side of the glacier, bringing the cold temperatures of the rocky peaks. It instantly chills my sweaty back, but the sun warms my face and will soon dry my shirt. I’m sitting on a grassy hillside, watching a never-ending train of mules carry their load up the rocky path. At the Punta Unión, 4750m above sea level (15,584ft), the view surrounds and engulfs me. Glaciers cascade down the mountain to the bluest of lakes; it takes my breath away! Or maybe it’s just the altitude... A landscape like this really puts you in your place, I kept thinking to myself on the way up. And it’s true, I am truly reminded today how small I am in the scope of it all and how infinitely big God is to have created such a landscape.

One of the most intense mountains I encountered on my trip was Volcan Chachani, an unprecedented 6057m (19872ft) above sea level. Our sunrise summit was freezing cold with little oxygen for my desperate muscles, but it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve ever endured. My last week in Peru was spent in Cuzco, where I did even more tromping around in the mountains. I was even lucky enough to encounter the Savage Mountain (Salkantay) on our five day trek to the ancient city of Machu Picchu. And yet it was Gabino, the camp chef that traveled with us, who I found most endearing and memorable. The Peruvians I encountered were extremely hospitable, with lots of well-founded pride for their country and respect for mother nature.

Needless to say, the mountains of Peru made a lasting impression on me and left me absolutely desperate for more. The warm and welcoming Peruvian culture was a stark contrast to the isolated, cold peaks, and I left Peru already anxious to return.

[delaneydanger]

Moab, UT

April 22 to 28, 2019

[delaneydanger]

Lone Peak, UT

The wind whipped small bits of frost that clung to the bits of my hair hanging out of my helmet. On my left was a cornice hanging over a steep drop off, and to my right was our disappearing skin track covered in thick fog. We had camped the night before at Second Humongog and hoped to summit Lone Peak this afternoon. Unfortunately for our ambitions, the weather did not turn out as predicted. Lone Peak was a mere 500-foot traverse across a ridge line, but it might as well have been miles away because of the lack of visibility. The fog was so thick, I could barely see Cody, and he was right next to me! We both agreed that it was best we turn around and carefully follow the skin track back to the bottom. I was a little disappointed as we skied away, but we were soon having a blast once we found good visibility and fun corn skiing leading us back to the car. At the end of the day, I was proud of us for getting out there and giving it a shot. Lone Peak may have eluded us this time, but we will be back!

[delaneydanger]

North Wash, Hanksville, UT

March 15-17, 2019

[delaneydanger]

Colombia

Where do I even begin to describe my recent trip to Colombia? To start with, I was spoiled for the first time by having someone to travel with: my boyfriend. We decided to go after graduating college and before beginning adulthood, spending five unadulterated weeks exploring thick jungle, desert canyons, white sand beaches, bustling cities, and lonely glaciers.

After a brief stop in Bogotá , we headed to San Gil, the “adventure capital” of Colombia. We took full advantage of our Airbnb’s infinity pool, swimming after our long days of hiking to waterfalls, mountain biking in Chicamocha canyon, and bungee jumping over the San Gil river. Aguila was our drink of choice. Always. Especially when playing tejo, a Colombian game involving a clay disk and packets of gunpowder.

Our trip continued at Refugio la Roca in a part of Chicamocha canyon called La Mojarra. The hostel catered to climbers, perched on the top of the cliff that featured hundreds of sport climbs, all graded and labeled accordingly. No words or pictures could do justice to the views from the crag. The red sandstone drastically dropped off into the green flora below, while blue skies provided the perfect backdrop for fluffy white clouds to drift by. I loved the climbs, especially the 5.11a La Vaca Loca. Leaving our little A-frame cabin was bittersweet, but I was excited to see what was ahead.

A mere sixteen hours later of bumpy buses on washed out dirt roads, we found ourselves in the mountain town of El Cocuy. A Colombian cowboy picked us up a day later in his green Defender and drove us to the base of the hike we would do up to Ritacuba Blanco. Dark sheets of rock were covered in bright green plants and drifting clouds revealed beautiful snow covered peaks. We spent the night in a mountain cabaña, playing cards and curling up in blankets by the fire. The next day, we hiked 6.9km until we reached the edge of a rocky overlook of the glacier at an altitude of 16,240ft. Cold wind was whipping as we made our way along the ridge line to the edge of the rock. Suddenly, the most beautiful view crept into sight, with dark rocky peaks distinctly sticking or from the white glacier. Ritacuba Blanco is the tallest peak in the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy, ringing in at 17,750ft. Needless to say, it was one of the best adventures of my short life.

Our next city, another two days of travel later, was the slow-paced beach town of Palomino. The beach was beautiful and we spent a week relaxing on the white sand, swimming and surfing the small waves, and drinking Aguila while watching the sunset. From the beach, you could see the frosted peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in the distance. We ventured into the foothills of these mountains at the end of the week, staying at Casa Loma in the jungle of Minca. We spent our days at coffee farms, waterfalls, and in massive hammocks but every night, we made it back in time to grab a couple beers and watch the sunset from a porch swing at our hostel.

After Minca, we went to the lakeside town of Guatapé . I fell in love with the colorful zocales that covered the buildings and loved wandering around with arepas de queso in hand. Our first day there, we hiked the 650 steps to the top of La Piedra and admired the view. From the top of the massive black rock, we could see all the fingers of the lake stretching towards the pine trees along the shore. It was beautiful and so green, especially shrouded in gray drifting clouds. The next day, we rented a shiny red motorcycle and drove some of the winding roads we had seen the day before until we reached a waterfall where we stopped and swam before lunch. We also ended up renting a kayak to explore the lake itself. Guatapé was a colorful city, a lovely combination of beautiful scenery and friendly people.

The last stop on our Colombian adventure was the bustling city of Medellín, but we were only there briefly to do a downhill mountain bike tour in the surrounding mountains. The first few kilometers of our ride were dilapidated jeep road, but then the singletrack started. It was extremely steep and rocky, making it hard for me to navigate the bike very well. Luckily, the trail gave way to a flowy section of muddy sections and grippy berms. It was a lot of fun, especially on the burly downhill bikes we were using. The downhill mountain bike tour was a great way to end our time before heading back to Bogotá (where we revisited the Botero museum and Monserrate) and flying out.

[delaneydanger]

McCall, ID

[delaneydanger]

Zion National Park

Springdale, UT

[delaneydanger]

Big Sky, MT

The wind whipped around me as I slid along the ridgeline, tensing with every gust of wind. Snow was blowing so hard, I could barely see the orange and green jackets of my roommates I was supposed to be following. I covered my face to avoid being pelted by the little ice crystals carried by the wind until I had caught up to the boys. They were peering over the edge of the narrow ridge to determine which couloir we would ski. I could hardly hear them over the howling wind but watched as they dropped, one by one, into the snowy chute below. It was then my turn to approach the edge, and I teetered in uncertainty of the terrain below and my own skiing ability until I decided to stop thinking about it and just trust it. A short vertical drop and then there was silence as I entered the rocky slope covered in snow and sheltered from the wind. The snow was soft and deep enough to float on, and I hollered as I navigated my way through the rocks and down the mountain. Reaching my friends, we raced to the bottom of the lift to do it again. And again. And again!

A few hours later, we were seated at a candlelit table with a full view of the mountain range out the expansive window. My roommates had told me about the audaciousness of this ski resort, but I was still unprepared for what I encountered and was a little shy about the luxury of it all. A ski resort in Montana with a caddie to bring the skis from the car to the bottom of the lift and a snack shack with complimentary candy, trail mix, crackers and cheese, soup, and a drawer full of warm freshly-baked cookies... This place gave me more than a little pampering, especially after the stress of catching up in school from missing a week in Thailand. A little indulgence can be a lot of fun, especially with good friends along for the ride.

[delaneydanger]

Thailand

After finding out that two of my roommates from studying abroad in Amsterdam would be traveling in Thailand during their gap year, I bought a ticket to join them (instead of being a responsible student and going to the first week and a half of class). Thirty plus hours of travel later, I arrived in Bangkok and caught the train from the airport to the city center. It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with Bangkok and its mix of modernity and antiquity, apparent in its markets and the buildings that line the streets. I was blown away by the architecture, a combination of contemporary, angular skyscrapers  and the ornate rooftops of ancient Buddhist temples. The few days we spent in Bangkok went by in a flurry of street food, night markets, ferry rides, and temple tours. One of my favorite days was when Hannah and I went to Chinatown, following our noses from food stall to food stall as we roamed the maze of shops and navigated the streams of people, motorcycles, and cars, alike. We also went to a rooftop bar, paying more for a cocktail at a swanky bar than the dinner we then ate on the side of the street.

Once we had all arrived and explored a bit of Bangkok, we took an overnight bus to the northern city of Chiang Mai. The bus ride had been comfortable and largely uneventful, though we were at some point woken and shuffled off the bus into a cafeteria where steaming bowls of broth and rice noodles greeted us (the next day, we wondered if it had all just been a dream). That morning, at the advice of our hostel worker, we went to a nearby mall to get a traditional Thai massage. We were massaged, pounded, and stretched until we had entered another world of tranquility, then we were treated to tea before wandering around the city some more. Every night in Chiang Mai, we ate at a collection of street carts just around the corner from our hostel. It was always a chaotic mess of people and food, the steam wafting through the air and drawing us in to each and every booth. We decided we wanted to learn more about Thai cooking, so we spent the day at a farm (where we could “touch the nature”) learning how to make Khao Soi, Green curry, Tom Yum, and more. Saturday and Sunday, there were night markets that we frequented filled with people and beautiful (inexpensive) things to buy. My favorite day in Chiang Mai, however, was the day we rented motor scooters and drove an hour north to the Bua Thong Waterfalls. These waterfalls were formed by the buildup of a mineral in the water that allows people to walk up the rock with ease. It was so green and tropical, with flora so dense you couldn’t even see through it, and we went up and down the waterfalls many times before heading back.

My trip to Thailand, though far too short, was the perfect combination of delicious food, unique culture, and beautiful cities. I enjoyed spending time with my friends and will continue to vicariously live through them as I return to school and they continue traveling around southeast Asia. Hopefully, we will meet up in some corner of the world again soon!

[delaneydanger]

Moab, UT

Fall break 2017

[delaneydanger]

Bamenda, Cameroon

I open my eyes to the sound of the joyful shrieks of young children chasing one another, dodging older children who sweep the dirt roads with bundles of sticks tied together. A mosquito buzzes around my head, and I give a half-hearted, sleepy swat in its general direction. The cool morning fog is already being lifted away by the beams of sunlight that pierce through the trees that cover the nearby hills, and I can tell it will be another good day in Bamenda, the African “village” of half a million people.

I spent a month at the Good Shepherd Orphanage, waking up each day like this and passing the rest of my morning slathering freshly-bathed toddlers in coconut oil and dressing them in the mismatched, worn clothes that have been donated by the community. “Dress me! Dress ME!” they all cry over one another in a mess of giggles and tears. There is no government support, so the nuns who run the orphanage are dependent upon benefactors and generous community members who drop by with cars full of rice, salt, and soap. The sense of community is strong in Cameroonian culture, and people call one another “uncle,” “auntie,” “mommy.” The sense of community is even stronger within the orphanage, where newcomers immediately become siblings and the kids are united by the common tragedy of not having parents who can take care of them. Many of the kids’ parents have died, whether in childbirth or from illness, but many more are left without parents because of poverty.

And yet, you would never know that these children have faced such difficulties. Their constant smiles and endless laughter is only interrupted by the frequent meltdowns that always accompany growing up. Every day at noon, we gathered for songs and dancing and prayers. More days than not, piles of young children were left sleeping on the floor after we’d finished only to be woken for their afternoon meal (often consisting of rice and a tasty sauce to put on top). Our afternoons were spent playing games all around the dormitories and convent. The children were fun to be with, a ray of positive energy that flooded the orphanage. I could talk forever about each of the kids who held my hand and captured my heart. Paolo and Silas, the two-year old twins who were always causing mischief. Maximillion, the curious 7-year old boy who would always inquire about my life in America. I became friends with Angela, a 22-year old girl who dreams of being a fashion designer in Paris, and constantly spent time with Heidi Ministry, the sweetest two year old little girl with big blue eyes and a giant belly to match. I was humbled by their faith and inspired by their courage to face the difficulties of each day. Holding the one-month old baby named Divine Favor, I was reminded of the fragility of life and felt deeply blessed to become a part of their lives.

Cameroon taught me to be flexible with my plans and to remember what is important in life. I was reminded how different other people can be and shown how fulfilling it is to meet them and learn how they experience this chaotic, beautiful thing called life.

[delaneydanger]

Canyoneering

Spring Break 2017 Part II

[delaneydanger]

Southern California

Spring Break 2017 Part I

[delaneydanger]

Amhert, Massachusetts

My slightly-spontaneous trip to Amherst, Massachusetts was a whirlwind of powdery snow, good food, and my favorite people. I was welcomed to the East coast by a storm that caused a fifty-car pile-up on our drive from Boston to Amherst, and the snow seemed content to stay throughout the weekend. My first night there, my old roommates from Amsterdam and I spent the evening catching up over charcuterie, mushroom risotto, and a good ole box of wine. We slipped back into our old routine of talking and laughing until our stomachs were bursting, both from laughter and good food. There was talk of a big storm the next day and classes were preemptively cancelled in preparation for the foot of snow that was expected.

As I woke the next morning and peeked out the window, fat flakes of snow hurried to the ground, where a growing blanket three inches thick already lie. We made the most of the day by working on homework at the Lord Jeffery’s Inn for a majority of the morning, then bundling up to go play in the snow at the pretentious Amherst College. Once covered in snow, we went back to Gabby’s to warm up before heading out to hit some of the local bars. We went from Bistro 66 to Old Towne Tavern to Panda to High Horse, taking a brief break for pizza at the legendary Antonio’s, to Stackers to the Legion and then back to High Horse. Each bar had a different crowd, a different vibe, and it was fun to melt into each distinct atmosphere. When the night was over, we headed back to Gabby’s apartment, which overlooks the main street of Amherst, and watched from our cozy perch as people stumbled from the bars through giant banks of snow to their houses.

The next day, I had the pleasure of grabbing breakfast at a cute cafe called Cushman’s before seeing the UMass’ campus with Estelle, who took me for a grand tour of the student-run dining initiative, campus store, nationally-ranked dining hall, and record-holding library. I loved the views from the top floor of the nation’s tallest library, with rolling hills dotted with bare trees and old farmhouses. That evening, we relaxed and made tacos at Hannah’s apartment before calling it a night. Saturday was a day of exploration in the nearby town of Northampton. Northampton is an old town with trendy shops and boutiques. After shopping at some of the quirky specialty stores, we stopped in for a chocolate, wine, beer, and cheese tasting. Yes, you heard me. Chocolate. Wine. Beer. Cheese. It was fascinating to hear from the local brewers and producers, and I enjoyed trying a bunch of new products. We wandered Northampton for awhile longer before going to another local brewery located in an old mill. Bringing our own spread of snacks, we talked while enjoying a flight of beers that sported one of the best ginger beers I’ve ever tasted (not saying much, but still...). We made our way back to Amherst, rested and relaxed, then got ready for the Moonhooch concert that we were going to later that night back in Northampton. We met up with some friends at Tunnel bar, a cool bar that runs underneath a railway station, then headed to the concert venue. Featuring a couple saxophones and a drummer, the band was lively and talented, flowing from one catchy tune to the next. It seemed like they had just started when two hours had passed and they were playing their final song. It was such a great time dancing to the live music with my friends, and we finished the evening cozied up at Aviva’s house eating mozzarella sticks and laughing about our night.

It seemed like the weekend flew past and, before I knew it, it was my final day. Just like my arrival, a big storm was in the forecast and definitely delivered. We took the morning slow, making brunch potatoes with Aviva and her roommates, then Estelle and Aviva kindly drove me to the nearby city of Springfield where I was to catch a bus to Boston. The bus, though delayed by several hours, eventually got me to the airport, where my flight was also delayed due to a gas leak in the airport from a snow plow. Eventually, I ended up on a plane headed home, leaving behind the snowy weather for the warm heat that had hit Utah in my absence. My time in Massachusetts was short but so enriching. I loved seeing the people that had been a part of my European adventure, and it really reminded me of how much I have changed the past few years. I hope to see them all again in the future, and sooner rather than later, at that.

[delaneydanger]

Walking in a winter wonderland...

[delaneydanger]

Northwest U.S.A.

A mere week after returning from spending seven months abroad, and I was off again. This time, I would be spending a week with my (newly-turned) 16-year old little sister as we explored the Pacific Northwest. With the surprise unveiled and the car packed, we hit the road after stopping for her license at the DMV.

Our first stop was a little cabin just outside Pendleton, Oregon where we spent the night roasting marshmallows and weenies over the fire and walking around the campsite taking pictures. The next day, we set out early in order to spend the day in Seattle. Driving into the city of Seattle, I was amazed at the green plants that seemed to ooze out of the grey city walls. Everywhere I looked, there were luscious green trees and bushes peeking out from balconies or perched upon overlooks. After grabbing lunch at the delicious Paseo’s, we went to Pike’s Place market to wander and enjoy the easy-going vibe that filled the flower and produce stands. The crowd only added to the festive atmosphere, and a live band played in the background. When we had picked out a present for my parents, we decided to stop for coffee before going to the Chihuly gardens exhibit and Space Needle. The Chihuly blown glass was bright and demanded our full attention (a difficult feat when we are caffeinated). With the light shining on the glass and making it gleam, the displays were a kaleidoscope of color. We finished our day by driving up to Birch Bay, Washington where we would spend the majority of the week.

The next few days were spent hiking and exploring the surrounding area. We took a day trip to Vancouver, crossing the border to discover the Canadian city. Our morning was spent at the Granville Island, where market vendors filled the warehouse selling fruit, vegetables, gourmet food, cheese, and crafted wares. It was a colorful sensory overload, and we didn’t leave empty-handed. Leaving the market, we opted to grab a cup of coffee from my--I mean, Delany’s--cafe. With brew in hand, we walked along the beach that offered a beautiful view of the surrounding city and the busy bay. Joggers and tourists alike passed along the beach as we sat to read and enjoy our coffee. We spent the afternoon discovering Chinatown and its shops filled with aisles of Asian goods before leaving to Lynn Canyon. The shady canopy of green trees covered the sky above the path as we made our way to the suspension bridge strung between two cliffs 50-feet above a giant waterfall. We sat along the rocks, dipping our feet in the river that swept between the rounded rocks.

Our trip home seemed to arrive much too quickly, but we left excited to spend the night in Portland on our way home. The vibe of the city was relaxed and I loved the different cafes and shops. There were different clothing shops that we perused and we spent some time in an old bookstore, as well.  “This city has me out-hipstered,” Maya admitted. The evening, we passed the time laughing with our new friends (thanks to Couchsurfing) over huge slices of pizza before calling it a night. Our following morning began early in an effort to avoid any city traffic, so we opted to stop in Hood River, a small mountain town an hour outside Portland. We arrived just as the cafes were opening up for the day, and we took our time waking up with a cup of coffee before driving another 5-hours to Boise, where we spent the night with newly-acquainted family friends.

I will always cherish the memories made during this trip with my sister. She brings such joy to my life and inspires me with her compassion for those around her. I wish that other people had the chance to get to know her the way I do but, at the same time, I’m selfishly glad that my relationship with her is unique to only us. As I always like to remind her when I bombard her bed at night and refuse to budge, “Sixteen years together--and counting!”

[delaneydanger]

Copenhagen, Denmark