Dog Training Tips & How-Tos

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Pets and the 4th of July

The 4th of July is an exciting holiday for Americans, filled with backyard BBQs, lawn games, fun at the lake, and fireworks. Unfortunately, it’s not always an exciting holiday for our furry family members. Statistically speaking, more pets go missing on the 4th of July than any other day of the year, and shelters tend to be busiest on the 5th of July. The following few tips can help keep your pets safe.

Don’t feed your pets human food. It’s tempting to share our delicious foods with our pets, but many common picnic foods are dangerous for pets (like onions, grapes, and chocolate, for example), and bones can cause choking hazards. All that rich food can also give your pet an upset stomach that can last days after the celebration.

Use caution with lawn games. Lawn games often look like fun times for the family pet to join in. They may chase after your golf ball or bocce ball, interject in your backyard touch football, or snatch the frisbee during a round of ultimate frisbee. These can be dangerous environments for them, where they could easily and unintentionally be hit or kicked. Or, their teeth may connect with something or someone they weren’t going for.

Watch your dog closely at the lake. Many dogs LOVE the water and are natural swimmers, but that doesn’t mean accidents can’t happen. I’ve seen a number of dogs attempt to jump from the dock to the boat, only to fall between the two and crash into the water (luckily, they came out unscathed!). While many dogs may generally be fantastic swimmers, waves and currents can pull them around and under just as easily as they can a person. It’s not a bad idea to invest in a doggie life jacket!

Fireworks can be scary! While we may love to watch things explode and make noise, these things can be scary for our pets. Pets who are sensitive to fireworks often bolt at the first sound. If they’re not in a secure location, it may be difficult to track them down! To help them through the lights and noise, keep them indoors in a safe location. If they have a kennel, that’s the perfect place for them. Provide some background noise to drown out the sound of the fireworks (TV, radio, fan, etc.). Keep the windows closed and curtains drawn. Calming sprays and Thundershirts can also be helpful for some dogs.

Enjoy the holiday!

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Ahhh the Dreaded Doorbell!

Does your dog go crazy whenever the doorbell rings? You’re not alone! Why do they get so excited? Most dogs associate the doorbell ringing with the excitement (or in some cases, fear or anxiety) of someone being at the door. It makes sense, doesn’t it? Every time they hear that glorious sound, *poof!* a visitor has arrived! Whether it’s someone coming to actually visit or just the postal carrier dropping off a package, it sends a flood of emotions and learned responses to the dog.

Did you know that bomb dog breeding facilities have sounds of explosions and gun fire broadcasting through a facility-wide sound system 24-7? With the noise constantly happening, the dogs (and even the newborn pups) learn that the noise is simply a part of daily life. That way, when they get out into the field, the sound doesn’t startle them or distract them from their job.

In the same way, we could desensitize our family dogs to the doorbell. If the noise happened constantly with no resulting visitor, the dog would learn that noise is just another of the many noises part of their daily lives. They wouldn’t associate that trigger with a visitor, and thus, they wouldn’t go bonkers every time they heard it.

Certainly, it would be far easier to desensitize a new puppy, but it can also be done with a dog who already reacts to the sound. With a new puppy, they haven’t already developed that conditioned response so desensitizing is simply prevention in their case. Ring the bell at random, act as if nothing happened, and reward the pup for calm behavior. 

With an adult dog who already sees that noise as a trigger, it requires just a bit more work and can more easily be accomplished with two people (handler and doorbell ringer):

The doorbell ringer should be outside at the doorbell while the handler is inside with the dog and out of sight of the front door. The handler should have a highly valuable reward (possibly one the dog ONLY gets when the doorbell rings so he really wants to work for it!) - a handful of the dog’s favorite treats, a Kong with peanut butter, a favorite toy, etc.

Before the ringer even rings the bell, the handler should start by getting the dog’s attention (with the reward if necessary) and reward the dog for focusing on the handler.

After about 30 seconds of rewarded focus and calm behavior, the ringer should ring the doorbell once. When (if) the dog reacts, the handler should get the dog’s attention again with the reward and give the reward ONLY when the dog is calm and focused on the handler. The ringer will stay outside through the entire process. Be patient, as this may take a good deal of time in the beginning.

When the dog has fully ignored the door and the person at the door, the ringer should ring the bell again. Repeat the above process. Remember to never actually give the reward until the dog is calm and ignoring the door and person at the door.

As with all desensitization, it’s important to remember that time is the best aid. Only practice for short periods (5-10 minutes), but practice multiple times a day (3-5 times) when possible. It won’t get better overnight, but eventually, your dog will be running to you when the doorbell rings, looking for their reward!

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Separation Anxiety: What is It?

A very common complaint of many dog owners is their dogs are destructive or disruptive when Mom and Dad leave them alone. These dogs might potty, bark, howl, chew, or try to escape when left alone. Although these behaviors are most often the result of a dog who needs to brush up on their manners or is simply bored, they can also be indicators of a dog who is in distress. When the problem behaviors are accompanied by distress behaviors such as excessive drooling, panting, or showing anxiety even when the parents are simply getting ready to leave, this is an indication that the dog may actually have separation anxiety.

When treating a dog with separation anxiety, the goal is to resolve the underlying anxiety so the dog enjoys (or at least tolerates) being left alone. We do this by creating the environment that causes the anxiety without experiencing the actual fear or anxiety.

Why do some dogs develop separation anxiety? Unfortunately, there is no good answer to this question. It is typically more common in dogs who have been rescued or rehomed than those raised with the same family from puppyhood, but that isn’t always the case. Some causes include change of family, change of schedule or routine, change of residence, and change of others in the house (both human and canine). You’ll notice the word change accompanies them all. Dogs are creatures of habit and THRIVE in structured, routine environments. Any change is difficult for the dog to deal with, and sometimes those difficulties lead to anxiety.

Behavior problems to rule out first: It can be difficult to determine if a dog truly has separation anxiety or not. Other problem behaviors are often mistaken for separation anxiety such as submissive or excitement urination, incomplete house training, marking, juvenile destruction, boredom (the most common and likely one), and excessive barking or howling at other triggers in the environment.

Treatment for mild separation anxiety: With mild separation anxiety, counterconditioning can often be effective. With counterconditioning, we change the animal’s current reaction (in this case, anxiety) to a more favorable reaction (in this case, calm) by associating the trigger with something really good. Instead of the dog expecting the worst by recounting previous responses to the trigger, we encourage them to accept or even desire the trigger because it comes with a fantastic reward. For example, you can give your dog a puzzle toy like a Kong stuffed with highly valuable food (e.g. low-fat cream cheese, peanut butter, low-fat yogurt, low-fat cottage cheese, or canned dog food) whenever you leave. You should use foods the dog ONLY gets when being left alone, and the toy and any remaining food should be picked up as soon as you return so they only get that special reward when left alone. Keep in mind this approach typically only works for dogs with mild separation anxiety, as those with more severe anxiety generally won’t eat in their owners’ absence.

Treatment for moderate to severe separation anxiety: More severe cases of separation anxiety require a more complex program involving both counterconditioning and desensitization. In these cases, it’s crucial to take much smaller steps, starting with short separations of just a few minutes and working up to longer separations over several weeks of daily sessions. Desensitization and counterconditioning can be tricky for a more severely anxious dog. It’s important to avoid fear completely, or the plan may backfire. This plan requires many steps, and it is generally recommended that owners get the help of a certified behaviorist when working with moderately or severely anxious dogs.

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Communication with Dogs is Visual!

We’ve all been there. Fluffy is really excited, and you’re frantically pleading, “Fluffy, sit!” While Fluffy may (or may not!) hear you, she certainly isn’t responding to that command learned years ago. Why is that? We know she’s excited, but does that mean she forgot how to sit?

Dogs communicate in a variety of ways, but their preferred method is visual. They use their posture and body language to communicate with other dogs AND with people. If visual communication is the dog’s preference, why do we humans insist on shouting verbal commands at them then? It’s in our nature! We use our voices to communicate so we assume they should too. If you want to really connect with your dog, though, visual communication will be far more successful.

I teach every new command using just my hands (and maybe a delicious treat) to guide them or “lure” them into a behavior. Without saying a word, I can easily get a dog to sit politely simply by providing a visual lure to follow. Once the dog is following the lure consistently, a verbal command can be added if desired, but it isn’t even necessary. In fact, my dogs will often respond to hand signals much more quickly and consistently than verbal commands.

Let’s use the sit command as an example.

Hold a delicious treat between your thumb and first finger.

Hold the treat in front of the dog’s nose for a few seconds without letting her eat it.

When she’s focused on the treat, slowly pull your hand straight above her nose and toward your chest.

If she jumps for the treat, hold your hand still and wait. After a few seconds, many dogs will drop into the sit.

When her bottom falls to the floor (and her front feet remain on the floor), praise and reward her with the treat.

Be careful not to treat her when she’s not in the sit position. For example, if she pops up or paws at you when you reach to give her the treat, start again. She must be in the sit position to receive the reward.

Another great benefit to visual commands is the dog’s desire to match your physical energy. If the human is raising their voice and panicking to communicate with the dog, the dog will also raise their energy level, excitement, and anxiety. If, however, the human is calmly giving quiet visual commands, the dog will respond with quiet compliance.

Next time you’re raising your voice and pleading with your dog to get them to follow a verbal command, try working with your hands instead.

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Greeting Visitors at the Door

Q: My dog gets really excited when someone comes to the door. How can I get her to greet the visitor appropriately without barking and jumping?

A: This question has two big things to address – the sound of the doorbell or knocking and the actual person coming through the door.

To get Fluffy used to the sound of the doorbell or knocking (whichever is more common for you), we need to desensitize her to the noise. Until now, every time she’s heard that magic sound, a visitor has shortly after come through the door, and Fluffy has responded with abounding excitement. To desensitize her to the sound, we’re going to help Fluffy associate it with her favorite reward and her assigned “spot” (bed, kennel, rug, etc.) to wait. This task will require two people: one person will go outside the door and be the “visitor” ringing the bell or knocking while the other person (the “handler”) will work with Fluffy inside.

The handler should have in hand Fluffy’s most valuable reward – a delicious treat, her favorite toy, a Kong toy with peanut butter – whatever she loves the most.

The visitor is responsible for providing the distraction – ringing the doorbell or knocking on the door.

When the handler hears the distraction, she should get Fluffy’s attention with the reward, lure her to her spot, and give her the reward for ignoring the sound and focusing on the handler. Remember, she only gets the reward when she is quiet, ignoring the sound, and staying on her spot. At first, the visitor doesn’t need to enter the home; we’re just working on the sound.

As Fluffy becomes desensitized to the sound, she’ll start to go to her spot and wait for her reward simply at the sound of the bell or knock. At that point, we knows she’s associating the noise with something other than a visitor, and we can start inviting the visitor into the home.

When the visitor is entering the home, continue to reinforce Fluffy’s staying on her spot with the reward.

As long as she is calm, the handler can release her from her spot to greet the visitor.

If she gets over-excited, the visitor should ignore Fluffy, and the handler should lure her back to her spot with the reward. She only gets to greet the visitor in a polite manner – quietly with her feet on the floor.

It’s important to remember that desensitizing a dog from anything takes times. Consistent and frequent practice is essential for success. I recommend practicing three to four times a day for about ten minutes each time. Longer sessions can frustrate both the dog and the handler, making training more difficult. In addition, remember Fluffy will respond to everyone coming through the door in the same manner. If she’s allowed to jump up on and bark at her human pack members, she’ll assume that’s ok for visitors too. Consistency and structure are key!

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Dogs and Children

Q: My 3 ½ year old loves our dog. We got the dog about a year ago, and he’s now 3. Lately, the dog has been growling and snapping at my son when he hugs him or is near him. What do you recommend we do?

A: First off, it’s important to note that most aggression is based in fear and is not necessarily indicative of an aggressive dog. As humans, we love to give affection through hugs and kisses to our dogs. Some dogs learn to tolerate this behavior, and some may even appear to enjoy it. However, dogs typically do not enjoy hugs, kisses, pats on the head, and many other things we think they do. Because adults tend to do these things in a calmer manner, most dogs will better tolerate them from their human adult pack members than from the kids.

It often is even more difficult with younger children (under 7 or 8). Young kids tend to be very animated and often get quite excited about our four-legged friends. This extra excitement and movement can be a bit scary for dogs. They don’t always know what to expect. Growling and nipping is their way of communicating their fear to the human. With kids especially (but with all humans who will interact with the dog), it’s important to approach in a calm, confident manner with hands at our sides. We can then offer the back of one hand to let the dog sniff us before approaching further. Assuming the dog is still displaying positive behavior, start by scratching under the chin or behind the ears. With mom and dad’s supervision, the child can also offer the dog a tasty treat from their flat, open palm. Associating yummy treats with the approach of the child will help the dog to be less fearful.

In this scenario, I would also recommend having the dog’s vision and mobility checked with your vet. As dogs age, they can develop something similar to cataracts in humans. This “fogginess” in their vision can make it difficult to see things – especially in their peripheral. The faster movement of children can also be more difficult to see and assess, resulting in greater fear for the dog. They also tend to become arthritic in their older age. This stiffness and discomfort can make them a bit leery about people touching them due to fear of pain. This is why we occasionally see older dogs who are great with adults but more fearful and skittish with children.

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Crate Training at any Age

Q: We’re considering purchasing a crate and crate-training our now 9-year-old dog. What suggestions do you have to ease the transition since this is all new to her?

A: Crate training is a great idea regardless of the age of the dog. While some dogs adapt to crates more quickly than others, most dogs quickly learn to love their new den. Dogs are den animals by nature so most feel very comfortable in a crate. When I’m watching TV or reading a book, my girls are often cozied up in their crates taking a snooze.

The den (crate) is the dog’s safe place where they can take a nap, play with a toy, chew on a bone; or find comfort in scary situations like thunderstorms, fireworks, or unfamiliar visitors. If the crate is a new idea, it can be tricky at first to encourage its use, but most dogs will learn to love them over time. The most important step is to help the dog associate the crate with good things. Often times, we make the mistake of luring the dog into the crate with a tasty treat and then quickly shutting the door when they’re inside. This is not a good association; this will make the dog feel tricked.

First though, we need to choose the right crate. They are available in multiple sizes and materials depending on your needs. When the crate is being used for potty training, it should be just large enough that she can walk in, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If it’s even a little bit too big, she’ll use one side to nap in and one side to potty in. Assuming she’s already potty trained, you can opt for a slightly larger crate if you want to give her more room and have the space in your home to accommodate it. I generally prefer wire crates over plastic or canvas, but they each have their pros and cons. For a puppy, keep in mind canvas and plastic crates can easily be chewed through while wire will be more durable. Canvas and plastic also create a more enclosed feeling while wire will have more air flow and open air feel. For some dogs, the openness of the wire crate can actually be scarier than the closed feeling of canvas or plastic. You can solve this by putting a blanket or old towel (or crate cover) over the wire crate. Wire crates are also fully collapsible, making them easy to store.

Location of the crate in your home is the second consideration. Once you choose a location, you should keep the crate in the same spot and avoiding moving it from room to room. The crate should be located in or near a room where you spend most of your time while you’re home. It also should be out of traffic. We have ours in the corner of our family room where we often watch TV and eat dinner at our nearby pub table.

To get her acclimated to the crate, we want to associate it with positive things. Start by showing the dog her favorite treat, toy, or chew. While she’s watching you, toss the favorite item into the crate, and walk away. Allow her to investigate the crate and its contents on her own, coming in and out as she pleases. Avoid throwing her favorite thing in and immediately shutting the door. We want her to enjoy the freedom of the crate before using it to confine her. As she gets more comfortable going in and out, you’ll be able to shut the door without it being scary for her. At first, try shutting the door and keeping her in the crate for just a few minutes while you stay nearby. As long as she is calm and quiet, open the door and let her come in and out again. This will help her understand two important things: it’s temporary, and she has to be calm and quiet to come out. Never let her out of the crate while she is whining or barking; this will only encourage her to make a fuss any time she’s in it.

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Tips for Easier Grooming at Home

Q: My dog doesn’t like it when I groom him – brushing his coat, teeth brushing, nail trimming, ear cleaning, etc. How can I get him more used to these things?

A: This is a very common problem for dog and cat owners alike! It’s, of course, much easier to get them used to it if you start young, but it can certainly can be accomplished with an adult dog as well.

Like humans, dogs are associative to objects, places, smells, and the like. Up until now, he’s probably associated the brush, the toothbrush, the nail clipper, the bathtub, and maybe even the bathroom in general with unpleasant experiences. That’s not to say we’re doing anything wrong to make it unpleasant; it just isn’t as fun as running around in the back yard chasing a ball or a squirrel! To start then, we need to desensitize him to these objects and places and help him associate them with good things instead. Does he have a favorite treat or toy?

We’ll use the brush as an example. When you first get the brush out, let him sniff it, and reward him for sniffing and not responding in a negative way. The reward can be as simple as praise or a small treat. At this point, we’re not going to even brush him; we just want him to associate the brush with an awesome reward. After a few times of this (spread out over a couple days), we’ll start brushing him. Make just one or two strokes with the brush, and reward him for positive behavior. Over time, you’ll be able to do full brushings with good, positive responses.

The same can be done with any object or place that brings about a negative reaction in the dog. The trick is to start small. Never try doing the entire behavior (like brushing all of his teeth, clipping all of his nails, etc.) or forcing him into the uncomfortable environment (like the bathtub) all at once. It’s important to take baby steps and reward for even small successes.

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Dog Pulling You down the Sidewalk?

As the weather gets warmer here in South Dakota, I see more and more people hitting the sidewalks in my neighborhood with their dogs. A few are good walkers, but most are pulling, zig-zagging, barking at every person and dog they see, and doing every other unwanted behavior you can think of. We’ve all been there, and it can make the walk frustrating - so frustrating that many of us simply choose not to walk our dog. Bad idea! The walk is one of the most important and necessary parts of the dog’s routine.

If you have a puller, zig-zagger, or reactive dog (barking and pulling at things that interest them), it’s important to know that regular collars, choke collars, prong collars, and harnesses ALL encourage them to pull harder! Dogs have a reflex called the oppositional reflex. When they pull and feel resistance anywhere on the front of their body (think about where they feel that resistance when wearing a collar or harness), they feel the need to fight that resistance, thus pulling harder!

PetSafe’s easy walk harness and gentle leader (and others out there like them) are excellent tools to use the dog’s oppositional reflex to your advantage. When using these tools, the dog now feels resistance on the back of his body. To “fight” that resistance, he simply has to slow down.

Some other tips:

Walk faster! If you’re walking slowly, the dog will definitely want to go faster than you.

Hold the leash by just a few fingers - no death grips!

Keep your arm relaxed and down at your side. Your arm, after all, is simply an extension of the leash. If it’s tense, the dog will be tense.

Give the dog JUST ENOUGH leash to be at your side with a bit of slack (you should have a ‘J’ in the leash) but not so much that they can easily get far out in front of you or zig-zag around you.

When they do pull, without yanking the dog back to you, keep your arm and hand relaxed, and take a few quick steps backward or simply turn around and head the other direction. You only get to move forward when the dog is walking nicely.

Even the tiniest bit of pull is too much. Give them an inch, and they’ll take a mile. If you don’t have a ‘J’ in your leash, the dog is pulling (even if your pup is 5-pounder, and you don’t feel the pull!).