diagrams illustrating sensor types. bit depth and digital noise

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diagrams illustrating sensor types. bit depth and digital noise
before and after, the first image is a snapshot before using the remove chromatic aberration tool the second is after, the difference seems to be minimal.
TASK 2- Reflection (specular and diffuse)
Direct transmission & Specular Reflection (Together)
Direct Transmission
Diffuse Transmission
Diffuse & Direct Transmission (Together)
Selective Transmission
Refraction
Absorption
‘Capture’ Group Questions
camera sensors are a piece of hardware within the camera body that capture and convert light (photons) into digital information, forming an image. the camera sensor gathers photons using photo sites, small wells on the surface of the sensor that gather the photons while the camera’s shutter is open. once the cameras shutter has closed the camera uses the varying electrical signal strengths created by the photons within the photo sites converting them to a digital value which is collated to form a digital image. photo sites require coloured filters to distinguish colour. these filters block colours of light that are not their own. these filters are grouped together in grids of 4 by 4 known as a Bayer array this allows the camera to replicate more complex colours than just red, green and blue. by measuring the different brightness or volume of each individual RGB colour that makes up the more complex colour and combining this information together the processor can create an approximation of the colour based on the brightness of red, green or blue present. their are variations in sensor design. the two most prominent are CMOS (complementary metal- oxide semiconductor) and CCD (charge coupled device) sensors. initially CCD sensors were the superior of the two with much better image quality and less noise whereas the CMOS sensors where seen as a tad lacklustre with poorer image quality. though, as is still the case, the CMOS sensors had better power efficiency than the CCD sensors. CCD sensors record the pixel information during exposure and send each pixel to be processed one after the other which is energy inefficient on account of the fetching and sending taking place it is also more time consuming than the CMOS alternative. in CMOS sensors the information captured during light exposure is gathered within the sensor itself and sent at once to the processor, reducing energy usage and increasing the speed of the operation. CMOS sensors have lower light sensitivity than CCD sensors, this is because of the increased circuitry present on the CMOS sensor. another sensor type is the foveon sensor. the foveon sensor foregoes having a bayer array and instead has layers of photosensitive diodes stacked on top of each other one for blue, green and red. every photosite is sensitive to the three RGB colours. the concept behind the foveon sensor is that by stacking the photosensitive diodes instead of having them side by side as in a Bayer filter each individual pixel has greater colour accuracy, as each pixel is registering both red, green and blue at once.
photographic dynamic range is the ratio of strongest signal (maximum signal) to weakest signal (noise floor) , this determines the range of highlights and shadows a camera sensor can capture. most DSLRs have a higher dynamic range than compact cameras. the greater the sensor size and pixel size the greater the dynamic range.
bit depth determines how much tonal information each primary (RGB) colour channel can display per pixel. this is important as it determines the tonal range of each colour in the image, the greater the bit depth the wider the range of available tones avoiding problems like image banding where there is little to no graduation between tones. the standard bit depths are 8-bit. 12-bit, 14-bit and 16-bit. bits themselves are a way of storing information. they are binary digits, expressed as 0 or 1, each value equates to a tone, so a 1 bit image would have 2 tonal values black and white, this increases greatly as you increase the bit depth with a 2 bit image displaying 4 tones ( black, white and 2 greys) an 8 bit image displaying 256 tonal values or 16.7 million colour combinations.
digital noise is distortion in an image caused by random variations in the brightness and tone of pixels causing grainy or blotchy patches and aberrant colour. the two main types of noise are colour and luminance noise. colour noise creates blotches of unwanted colour throughout the image, it is often caused by the camera’s sensor overheating. luminance noise is the more frequently encountered of the two and looks like graininess in the image, it is caused by low light shooting and high ISO . the amplification of the images signal caused by increasing ISO also amplifies any noise in the image, the lower the ISO the less noise you should see in the image. some noise can also be generated by overuse of the camera which heats the sensor, hot surroundings or simply from converting the information from pixels to digital information. as discussed before certain sensor types generate more noise. noise reduction can be applied in the menu settings of some cameras, which proves useful for low light or slow shutter speeds.
TASK 1 properties of light
from top
specular reflection: specular reflection is mirror like reflection wherein the reflection is very clear. smooth surfaces tend to reflect light at the same angle as it came in so the reflection is almost a 1 to 1 of the object or surrounds being reflected. still water and smooth/shiny metal often reflect in this way.
in diffuse reflection the reflective surface is rough or uneven so the light reflects off it at varying angles, this causes a fuzzy or distorted reflection
refraction is a change in the direction light due to a change in transmission medium when light goes from air to glass it bends. this distortion can be seen by looking at beams of coloured light or patterns with a glass of water close to them, this shows the distortion caused by diffraction
in direct transmission light passes through a transparent object like glass and undergoes no significant change, the lights direction and colour stay the same. this means that the object viewed through glass when direct transmission is present will look very close to how it would with nothing in front if it.
in diffuse transmission light passes through a translucent object where the light is scattered unpredictably i,e glass with water droplets or condensation on it. the object seen through a translucent object seem distorted or fuzzy
selective transmission is where white light is passed through an object that allows only a few or one spectrum of light to pass through adsorbing the rest, for example a red colour filter for a light allows only the red spectrum of light to pass through the rest green, blue etc are adsorbed by the filter. because of this the light passed through the filter is red in colour.
in adsorption. light hits a high adsorption opaque object, it is not transmitted through the object and very little of it is reflected, most of the light energy is converted to heat energy. black or dark objects look black because their molecular structure reflects very little light, causing them to look dark by this absence of reflection. light passing through the gaps between shutters is a good example of adsorption, the light is adsorbed by the shutters leaving only shadow behind them.
graded unit final images
Graded unit evaluation
Introduction
My photographic task was to create a series of 10 images of my own choice based on an idea that I come up with myself. I chose to go with the theme of deep-sea life. I tried to represent the archaic and transient nature of the seas by photographing studies and still lives of fossils, shells, coral and dead sea life. The planning of the task began with my approach essay that detailed my inspirations and my own plan for the project, here I looked at the photographers lieve prins, irving penn, hiroshi sugimoto, Annabelle breakey and Edward Weston. Next, I gathered resources for my project buying sea food like octopus, squid and gurnard as well as objects like coral pieces, fossils and shells. I felt that at this stage it was best to go for a wide range of objects and styles of image, both studies of individual objects and still lives.
main
In all the shoots I utilised light painting techniques that I had used in a prior task. the work of Harold ross was inspirational in this. The technique involves using a small light to create concentrated areas of detail on different parts of the objects being photographed, these captures are composited in photoshop to create a final image. All of the shots were taken in studio using a canon eos 6d camera mounted on a tripod and a range of generalist zoom lenses. A tripod is necessary for light painting to work, as each shot makes up part of the final image the only difference should be in the lighting used, you cannot reposition the camera or the object or the effect will be ruined and the inconsistencies will be obvious. In terms of the light sources, I mostly used a small torch and an LED light panel held in my hand and moved in a circular or linear pattern during the exposure. The exposures were usually from 2-4 seconds due to the weakness of the light sources used, this also allowed me to move the light source during the exposure, a technique Harold ross says is vital to creating soft light in light paintings. Over the course of the shoot several ideas were ditched or modified. I considered early on the idea that I could create elaborate backdrops for the images to enforce deep sea aesthetic, I ran out of time to do this but I feel like it was not a mortal blow to the project as a whole though it may have enhanced it. At one point I thought that purely shooting still lives was the way to go with the project however it branched out into a wider range of shooting styles, I feel that this was not necessarily negative as variety can be more interesting. In terms of the skills I have gained and developed, I believe that I have refined my use of light painting techniques and of photoshop compositing techniques. The light painting can be tricky to get right as you must visualise the end result of the shoot based on multiple incomplete and usually not very appealing photos, you must train yourself to think in the long term. My compositing techniques in photoshop seem like second nature now after the span of time I have been using them for. Technical aspects like Using mask layers and adjusting exposures to suit as well as creative ones like choosing the photos to add together have both advanced for me. I feel like my attention span in regards to photography has increased thanks to this project, the nature of light painting means that you have to be very patient, this is a very important skill for a professional photographer to have. I also had to develop creative solutions to get the objects to stay in place, especially the octopi which are about as possible as a lump of jelly, I used wire armatures mounted on metal poles to keep the octopi suspended and in a decent shape, spearing the octopus’s body with wire and positioning it to suit the shot. I feel like my work has been fairly cohesive aesthetically throughout the process of the shoot which hopefully shows when they are finally presented together
conclusion
In conclusion I think that my work was fairly successful. The one regret I have in regards to my project was that I managed my time very well at the start of the project, but let time creep away from me at the final stretch and will have to bring in my printed work late, this is, the moral of the story is that you need to keep an eye on all your projects like a hawk. Next time I would also try a wider variety of shooting styles and techniques. The idea of having a light source within the translucent body of the octopus was interesting to me and I really feel that I should have at least tried it. If I was to do the project again I would have used a wider variety of fossils, probably trilobites as they have an extremely interest shape and texture and they are relatively cheap, I feel like I should have done this. I would have also made use of more seafood types, especially more fish as I feel they are underrepresented in the project. I may have also made models of prehistoric fish and used them if time allowed, but this would have required much more time then was allotted to the task. The logistics of the project were unproblematic. All of my objects were small and easily carried, though my octopi had to be brought in freezer bags to avoid them rotting prematurely. As I had no human subjects in the project and I was not shooting on location I was not bound by other people’s timetables and thoughts on the project. This was ideal as it meant there was almost no stress from trying to keep someone else happy. The smell of rotting octopus was unpleasant throughout the project and I did feel nauseous at times but never truly sick. As I write this my prints have not come through yet, but I believe that they will be well presented and of good quality reflective of the amount of work I have put in.
moving image storyboards
using the perspective warp tool in photoshop is quite intuitive once you get the hang of it. first you identify why you want to warp your image. the most common reason (in architectural photography at least) is that wide angle lenses cause distortion that bows out the parts of the building closest to the lens (the base) this can look unnatural. to rectify this you select edit, then click on perspective warp which should show up on the edit menu. your cursor now looks like a racoon’s face, clicking down and pulling along allows you to draw out rectangular planes called quads which can be pulled to match the sides of the building in the image. these quads define points of movement on the image. the quads automatically snap together. pressing enter you are taken from the layout section of perspective warp to the warp section now you can pull on the points at the corners of each quad and readjust the shape of the building to suit your needs. alternately there are presents that straighten the quad lines along a horizontal or vertical axis. once you are happy with how the image has been adjusted you press enter again, now you image will be missing parts along the outside which have been lost during the warping of the image. it is best to crop down the image to get rid of these, this must be taken into account when you take the photos in the first place.
graded unit contact sheets
final video for moving image
moving image short film with me as cameraman and Chris and Katie doing the acting
architectural project, final 5 images
architecture evaluation
I feel that my architecture work has turned out quite well. are architecture brief was to produce 5 images (2 interiors, 3 exteriors) of a building. at least two of the images were to display a use of the perspective warp tool in photoshop, which allows you to adjust parallel planes mapped onto parts of the image in order to counteract the warped look that is inevitable when photographing buildings with a wide angle lens. I initially chose to photograph the greenhouses at the botanical gardens as they are close to where i stay and are fairly easy to access as long as you shoot on a weekday and early in the morning. the greenhouses also have interesting plant life within which would work well for interior shots. however the angular greenhouse was shut and is less interesting on the outside and the more interesting rounded greenhouse (kibble palace) is rounded making it much more difficult to adjust using the perspective warp tool, which works with angular shapes. I changed my location to kelvingrove art gallery, another building with interesting interiors and which is also quite close to where i stay. I photographed the red sandstone exterior and the interiors architecture and exhibits. when editing the exterior photos I used the perspective warp in photoshop. at first i found this tricky but got a hang of ti eventually by reading more how to guides online. in terms of equipment used, I brought a 20mm canon lens mounted on a canon eos 6D body and a metal manfrotto tripod. for the msot part the shots were taken with an F-stop of 22 and the shutter speed adjusted to this depending on the lighting. I used a 10 second timer on each shot to reduce camera shake. risk wise there wise little to none in kelvingrove, though i brought water because it was hot outside. I think that the final photos work quite well, though the ones taken in the botanic garden are superior as they have a much more graphic style, though they don't fit the brief exactly. if I was to redo the project, I would have started it earlier and scouted more locations to get a wider variety of shots in the bag early on which could be picked form later with ample time.
moving image evaluation
the moving image project didn’t go to plan exactly. I wasted too much time focusing on the graded unit and unfortunately ran out of time to complete the moving image project to the level I would have liked. the project is based on filmmaking which I have an interest. the research aspect of the project was interesting analysing advertisements and film to see what makes them click with people. aspects like tempo, number of cuts per second, music and camera techniques where looked at in detail. the strength of a film or advertisement is built on these details. early on in the project we shot a short film about a ghost at the necropolis unfortunately this was all the film that I had to submit by the end of the project. annoyingly issues that I had with getting my graded unit work to print spilled over into this project as well. as such I was running out of time to get my own film done. my idea was to film a wine advert as I believed this would be relatively simple. however my lack of quality equipment and space at home meant that I could not film there. filming in college was made awkward by my a number of setbacks and in the end I gave up on this wine advert idea. if I was to do this project again I would have managed my time better, starting much earlier when I still had the time to finish it competently.
illusion final image
moving image research task2
Research a variety of Moving Image techniques: - Camera movements:
panning: in film a panning movement is a camera movement across a horizontal plane. they are often filmed using a crane or dolly mounted camera. these shots are often used to emphasise a location’s character like a dramatic desert in a western or a run down city in a thriller/horror. pans can also be used to draw attention to a detail, by panning to a person or object then stopping, the audience assumes it is of importance. this is useful for visual storytelling. they are also used to allow the audience to follow action.
tilt: a vertical camera movement (camera tilted up/down) similar to a pan but on a vertical plane rather than horizontal. can similarly be used to emphasize a landscape or location .introducing a character by tilting the camera up towards the actor at a higher elevation can be used to emphasize their importance. it can also be useful when transitioning from a scene set on the street to a scene taking place inside of a tall building.
zoom: using a zoom lens the filmmaker zooms into or away from something to emphasize it. the camera body remains still while the lens changes focal length
tracking: tracking shots follow a character or object through an environment, often to show a change in a characters outlook/setting or a progression in their character. the camera is often mounted on a dolly or gimble.
dolly: a dolly shot is any shot taken where the camera is mounted on a dolly. a dolly is a wheeled buggy mount for the camera usually with a seat for the operator to use the camera from. dollies keep the camera from shaking while moving it.
pull focus: a focus pull, is where the cameras focus is adjusted during a shot, pulling focus so that the actor or object moving through the scene is constantly in focus. rack focus is a version of this wherein the focus is abruptly changed from one subject to another mid-shot, this is often used to create drama, show another perspective or a mental breakthrough
Composition: shot composition is important to making a film look visually appealing and make sense when in combination with the aforementioned camera techniques. this could mean placing objects in the set in a symmetrical or interesting way or placing actors in a way that emphasises who is dominant in the conversation. the possibilities are endless
a} Focal length, long / standard / wide;
in cinema different focal lengths can rouse certain emotions in the audience or be used to cleverly progress the story through visual storytelling. a long focal length is often used for extreme closeups and can give a sense of intimacy (they also cause less facial distortion than wide angles or standard lenses), they can also be used to highlight a small movement or object in the scene which can be useful in murder mysteries or thrillers where these small details could be important to plot progression. standard focal length lenses can be useful for conversations, walking shots and a whole host of other less specialised shots, these lenses are the workhorse lenses and are most frequently used. wide angle lenses can be used to give a sense of grandeur and importance to an environment, showing off how vast or imposing they are.
b} Viewpoint, high (birds eye), eye level, low (on ya hunkers);
birds eye view shots are often used to portray vast landscapes or in some cases to show a character of interest usually followed by a zoom or cut to a closer viewpoint. eye level shots are very common, used commonly for conversations, some shots in traditional fight scenes. low shots are often used to add interest or drama to a scene. shooting someone from a low angle (depending on the context) can make the character seem impressive (by making the audience see them form a diminished viewpoint) or make the scene awkward or tense as the angle is unusual and can be disorienting. low shots can also be used in dynamic fight scenes in films like “the raid” where characters are constantly moving upwards vertically when they jump and fight.
c} Action, identify what is moving in the frame (to aid the transition 'cut on a move')
in action shots it is important to maintain dynamic and a smooth flow of visuals. cutting on action is the way to do this, there are many methods worth trying. one method is to shoot the same action with different viewpoints and edit them together so that the action starts in one shot and ends in the other. conversely jarring shifts can be effective as well, jump cuts, where a movement or lack there of is immediately cut to an action or scene that contrasts or parallels it. a famous example of this is the bone/satellite cut in “2001: a space odyssey”